Lee and I took our grandson, David, to Acadia National Park in Maine in the summer of 2001.  We left early in the morning for our 6-7 hour drive to Bar Harbor, the gateway community for the park. When we arrived, we simply strolled the quaint and crowded streets of this coastal village, stopping in numerous shops and checking out the harbor (Dave was particularly interested in the "Cat" a high speed catamaran/ferry which links Bar Harbor with Nova Scotia, Canada).

    The next morning we began our exploration of the park. We signed Dave up for the Junior Ranger Program, picked up an Activity Book and then began our drive along the Park Loop Road. We stopped at a number of sights, including Cadillac Mountain, with its stunning vistas of the Maine Coast and offshore islands, Sand Beach, although the water was too cold for swimming, Thunder Hole, where incoming waves maneuver into a narrow inlet and make a loud sound, and Otter Cliffs, where we walked for a while along the rocky shore.

    Dave's Activity Book provided many opportunities to observe the nature of the park and kept us quite busy all day long. That evening, we had hoped to participate in the "Stars Over Sand Beach" program, but the weather did not cooperate.

    The next morning we did some more walking in the Jordan Pond area, and also walked the Cadillac Summit Trail. That afternoon, Dave participated in the Life Between the Tides program, an exploration of tide pools and the creatures that inhabit them. We then turned in Dave's Activity Book and he was awarded a Junior Ranger badge and certificate in a cute little ceremony at the Visitor Cener. Later that day we went on a Harbor Cruise, from the dock in Bar Harbor. It was fascinating -- we were able to see several groups of seals, and a bald eagle. This was a very enjoyable trip and a great way to end our stay.  We returned home the next morning.

    

     Lessons learned:  Traveling with kids requires that activities must be greatly modified. In your research prior to the trip, search for fun things to do, and incorporate them into the itinerary. Keep sightseeing to a minimum unless the location has kid-appeal.  Fun things might include places for kids to "get wet", activities that involve some type of ride (such as a boat ride, chair lift or gondola ride, etc), and active things, such as walking, especially out in nature (as long as the walk is not too long). Also, be sure to book a hotel with a pool.

     This trip turned out to be one of my most ambitious road trips (2500 miles in 10 nights).  We arrived in Las Vegas, NV, after 1 AM in the wee hours and immediately picked up a rental car and drove to St George, UT, a distance of over 100 miles. Late the next morning we set out for Zion National Park, one of Utah's gems.  Massive, sheer, sandstone cliffs rise from the floor of the canyon. It is the Grand Canyon in reverse -- instead of looking down into the chasm, the visitor is always looking up. Cars were not allowed in the Zion Canyon Drive area so we were forced to use the shuttle bus system, which was fairly efficient.

    Dramtaic formations, such as, the Three Patriarchs (Photo #4), Angel's Landing, the Great White Throne, etc greeted us at every turn of the 6.5 mile scenic drive. We walked several trails, Weeping Rock and Lower Emerald Pool, and stopped at all the significant sights for photos, etc. After lunch we drove (in our car) the Zion-Mt Carmel Scenic Drive, which traverses the southern edge of the park, through its unusual tunnel and into a much different-looking landscape. This area is characterized by smooth, sculpted, conical mounds interspersed with evergreens. This area used to be sand dunes, and we could actually visualize the swirling sands, blown by the wind, hardening into these unusual formations.

    The next day, we headed north to Bryce Canyon National Park via a drive along scenic State Route 89. Bryce is totally different from Zion, impressive majesty replaced by fanciful, delicate spires of rock (known as "hoodoos"), even though both are the result of the same types of erosive forces. Nature's handiwork is certainly varied.

     We stopped at the Visitor Center for a map and proceeded to drive on the park roads to all the various scenic overlooks and trailheads.  All the viewpoints offered variations on the "hoodoo" theme and all were spectacular. We were particularly impressed at Bryce Point (Photo #1), Rainbow Point, Sunset Point, and Surise Point. We walked several trails, the most memorable being the Queen's Garden Trail, which allowed us to walk amongst the hoodoos and to see them from a totally different perspective.

    On our way back to St George, we stopped at the Kolob Canyon section of Zion. This area is miles from the major park land so is much less crowded. The 5.5 mile scenic drive offered spectacular views of the red sandstone cliffs.  

    Our last day in St George was another excursion, this time to Capitol Reef National Park (Photos 2 & 3), which showcases a distinctive geological uplift known as the Waterpocket Fold. We drove the main park road which winds along the fold and walked several trails, among them the Capitol Gorge Trail which, besides the scenery, has numerous chiseled "graffiti" left by pioneers.

    We left Utah and drove south to Page, Arizona, the gateway to the Glen Canyon Recreation Area, a man-made lake created by the construction of the Glen Canyon Dam. On our first morning here, we headed down to the Wahweap Marina to board a boat which took us to Rainbow Bridge National Monument (Photo #5). Rainbow Bridge is the largest natural stone arch in the world. It is fairly inaccessible, so is typically reached by boat.  It is about a 3 - 4 hour round trip and reservations should definitely be made in advance during the summertime or school vacations. The boat ride was very pleasant, with multicolored sandstone cliffs lining the water. The National Monument is on sacred Indian ground so visits are short and people are asked not to wander beyond the arch.

    The next day we went on our longest excursion of the trip, all the way to Colorado. On the way we stopped at one of the true highlights of this magnificent trip, Monument Valley (Photo #6).  The varied and interesting sandstone mesas and buttes create one of the most unforgettable landscapes on the planet. Older visitors inevitably remember these scenes from many of the "western" movies from the 50's, 60's and 70's. This attraction is also on Indian tribal land, and a permit must be secured before driving along the unpaved road which winds through the area.

    From here we continued eastward into the southwestern corner of Colorado to visit Mesa Verde National Park, the quintessential ancient, southwestern US Indian site.  Our journey to the park took a long time so we reached the Visitor Center (which is not at the park entrance but several miles into the park) with little time left before the park closed. We booked the last tour of the day which would begin in about 15 minutes, then raced the 10 -12 miles on windy park roads to our meeting place. Our tour took us to Cliff Palace (Photo #7), the largest and most popular of the cliff dwellings. We descended on steep paths and many stairs into the alcove which is still well-preserved despite being about 1,000 years old.  Our Ranger-leader was extremely informative about the structures within the community. Perhaps most interesting was the information that this society mysteriously disappeared about the year 1200 AD, and no one has been able to satisfactorily explain why. We then returned to Page late in the day.

    Our next and last stop was Las Vegas, Nevada, the gambling and entertainment Mecca of the USA. The remainder of our first day in town was spent checking out The Strip, that broad, busy boulevard lined with exciting and incredibly elaborate hotels and casinos. We stayed in the Paris Hotel (Photo #8), which was convenient to many of the most famous of the venues, such as, the Bellagio, the Venetian, and Caesar's Palace.  Later that evening we journeyed to the old part of town to meet some friends. We were mesmerized by the neon fantasia known as the Fremont Experience (Photo #9) and we toured some of the original Vegas casinos.

    The next morning, we headed south to Hoover Dam (Photo #10), the most popular excursion from the city. What a marvel of engineering! We took the Hard Hat Tour which was fascinating. We returned via a scenic drive through the Valley of Fire State Park which showcased picturesque sandstone landscapes, and also drove through Red Rock Canyon, a rugged gorge with multicolored sandstone walls. That evening, we saw Danny Gans, one of Las Vegas' premier performers (advance tickets are a must).

    Our final excursion, on our last full day in Las Vegas was to Death Valley National Park, in Eastern California. This park is absolutely huge, larger than the state of Rhode Island and difficult to see in one day, but we did the best we could. Notable sights within the park include Badwater, the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere, Zabriskie Point (Photo #11), with great views of multicolored sandstone, mountains and the broad valley which gives the park its name, and Scotty's Castle (Photo #12), an opulent and unusual ranch house in the middle of nowhere. A detour along Artist's Drive was another highlight. This park may well have some of the most magnificent scenery in the entire country.

    We returned to Vegas, sampled a few more of the famous hotel productions, and left the next day for home.

 

     Lessons learned:

           1. Distances in the West are great, so, even though the highways are good, be careful about trying to include too many places in any excursion. We also do not tend to include driving within a national park, for instance, in our calculations. These distances may also be significant (and may include fairly low speed limits) -- we found this at Mesa Verde and Death Valley.

           2. Attractions that highlight Western scenery, but have not been designated National Parks, tend to be much less spectacular than those the Federal government has chosen to preserve for all ages. So feel free to skip second-rate places, such as Red Rock Canyon (near Las Vegas) or Valley of Fire State Park, because it is merely more of the same. They are geared more for people who have never seen this type of landscape.

 

    We tried something a little different for this trip. We decided to fly out to the west coast, then rent a car and do our road trip rather than drive from home. It allowed us to keep the trip under two weeks (since Lee prefers not to stay away for any longer than that at a time), while still covering a lot of ground.

    We began by exploring Seattle, WA, primary gateway to this area. With the few hours of daylight we had left after our flight, we drove to the Pioneer Historic Area, actually a somewhat seedy place centered on Pioneer Square. The next morning we began our sightseeing in earnest at Seattle Center, basically a park loaded with attractions, some of which originated during the 1962 World's Fair. The most significant of these is the Space Needle (Photo #1), a 605-foot tower which provides incredible views of the city skyline as well as Puget Sound and beyond. We enjoyed watching as two tethered "aliens" frolicked outside the glass-enclosed observation deck.  The kids were fascinated.

   We took the monorail to the Westlake Mall, then walked to Pike Place Market, Lee's favorite spot in Seattle. We browsed the incredible variety of stalls, watched as the fish market employees tossed the fish around as if they were footballs, and even had lunch in the "Athenian", a restaurant attached to the market, featured in the movie Sleepless in Seattle, which has great views of the waterfront area.

    After strolling the waterfront area, we decided to do something entirely different. We headed south of the city to Emerald Downs to watch the thoroughbred races. The setting of the track was magnificent, with beautiful Mt Rainier in the background.

   The next morning we headed out early for our Olympic Peninsula excursion.  Olympic National Park is certainly one of the true gems of the National Park Service. It has perhaps the most varied type of terrain and ecology of all America's national parks. We strolled along Ruby Beach (Photo #3), a wonderfully wild and turbulent sandy beach, with huge driftwood logs and offshore sea stacks. Not a place for swimming, but certainly meant for contemplation and appreciation of the power and wonder of the sea. Not far away was an entrance into the Hoh Rain Forest, an interesting and unusual ecosystem which features moss-covered trees and abundant rainfall. We walked the eerie and primeval Hall of Mosses Trail (Photo #2) and the Spruce Nature Trail -- both very quiet and spiritual places.

    Our last stop in the park was at Hurricane Ridge, high up in the Olympic Mountain Range, where we walked several trails which featured alpine flowers (we were above the treeline) and enjoyed the magnificent views. We returned to Seattle via ferry, another great way to see the city skyline.

    Leaving Seattle, we traveled north and then east into Canada, stopping for the night in Revelstoke, British Columbia (Photo #4), an adorable little town with a Western flavor located at the base Mount Revelstoke National Park.

    Continuing eastward, we reached Yoho National Park, one of a quartet of contiguous parks which showcase the Canadian Rockies astride the border between British Columbia and Alberta. We detoured off the highway on Yoho Valley Road to access Takkakaw Falls (Photo #14), one of Canada's largest.   

   We continued east into Alberta and reached Lake Louise (Photo #5), surely one of the most beautiful settings in the world. The lake is surrounded by tall, snow-covered mountains and glaciers, whose silt deposits color the water a striking grayish green. At one end of the lake is Chateau Lake Louise, a vintage, old, Canadian Railroad hotel which provides paths along the lake embellished with flowers. Moraine Lake (Photo #6), only a few miles from Lake Louise, is even more gorgeous with its setting in the Valley of the Ten Peaks. We walked along the lake, taking pictures and soaking up the scenery.

    To get to our hotel in Banff, we decided to take the scenic drive along Bow Valley Parkway, instead of the highway, and were rewarded with more incredible vistas and some exciting wildlife (elk and moose). Banff is another Western-style town, loaded with charm and ambience, surrounded by tall mountains. We loved just strolling the streets.

    Our next adventure began early in the morning. We traveled west then north to the Icefields Parkway, without doubt one of the world's most beautiful scenic drives. Imagine mile after mile of spectacular mountains, lakes, and glaciers. We stopped at many of the overlooks and were mesmerized by the scenes.  Our excursion, however, became truly memorable when we pulled in at Icefield Centre, and boarded a Snocoach (Photo #7) for a drive and walk on a glacier, Athabasca Glacier, a spur of the Columbia Icefield. What a fantastic experience!

    We continued north on the parkway to Jasper, another quaint mountain village, then reversed our trip back to Banff. Our last day in Banff was more low-key. We walked to the Banff Springs Hotel, another of Canada's famous old lodgings, then strolled the Cascade Gardens, and witnessed a demonstration of Indian Tribal Dancing. Next we visited the springs which introduced Banff to the world, at the Cave and Basin Historic Site. We had dinner at two fantastic restaurants while in Banff, Coyote's Grill and Ticino, a Swiss-Italian restaurant.

    We said goodbye to Banff and southeast, by Calgary, then on to Waterton Lake National Park, which together with Glacier National Park in the US make up an International Peace Park (a great example of countries working together to protect and preserve important environments). We stopped at the distinctive Prince of Wales Inn (Photo #8), set on beautiful Waterton Lake, lying in a valley between mountains.

    Then it was onward into the US to Glacier National Park, where we drove the glorious Going-to-the-Sun Road (Photo #9) which bisects the park and provides access to many of its attractions. At Logan Pass we saw a small herd of Rocky Mountain Goats and the Visitor Center there provided us with information about things to do the next day.

    We spent that next day entirely in the park, walking trails, stopping at overlooks, and picnicking on a lake. Glacier is a gem of a park, even though scientists are concerned that the glaciers are receding.

    Traveling west, we crossed the state of Idaho and ended the day in Yakima, WA. Yakima is just outside the eastern border of Mount Rainier National Park (Photo #10), our goal for the next day. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate. The next morning brought thick fog, and although we traveled many miles through the park, we were unable to even catch a glimpse of Mt Rainier -- thankfully we saw it when we were in Seattle.

    We exited the park at its southern edge and continued south to Mount St Helens (Photo #11), which proved to be much more interesting than we originally thought. We were, first of all, amazed at the devastation still visible from its 1980 eruption. Trees were flattened for miles around the access road, and the entire area was covered with volcanic dust. Also amazing was the new growth we saw which exemplifies the resilience of nature. The volcano itself rises dramatically from the surrounding forest and we could see the scar left by the explosion which blew off its top. We arrived in Portland, OR in the early evening.

    The morning we drove along the scenic Columbia River Gorge, stopping at Multnomah Falls (Photo #2), Oregon's highest, where we walked the cute, but steep trail to a bridge which traverses the gorge and provides a close-up view of the falls. In the afternoon, we explored downtown Portland. We enjoyed browsing the Saturday Market and people-watching -- Portland seems to be a Mecca for "hippies", throwbacks to the 1960's.

    We strolled uptown into the Nob Hill section and then beyond, into Washington Park (Photo #13), Portland's crowning glory. This is the home of the International Rose Test Garden, an incredible collection of hundreds of varieties of roses, all this on a hill overlooking the city with Mount Hood beyond -- a stunning setting. Above the Rose Garden is a beautiful, tranquil Japanese Garden, an idyllic spot which evokes a feeling of harmony with the environment.   

    We left Portland and traveled along the coastal highway, stopping at Newport, Cape Perpetua, and also the Darlingtonia Wayside, a trail which leads to a grove of pitcher plants, notable because they are among only a few types of carnivorous plants -- fascinating. We spent the night in Eugene, enjoying a wonderful dinner at Willie's on 7th.

   The next day we headed inland to Crater Lake National Park, our final major destination on the trip. Crater Lake may be the "most beautiful lake in world", with its incredible deep blue color and its setting in the caldera of an ancient volcano. We took Rim Drive around the crater, stopping numerous times for pictures and walks. We loved Wizard Island (Photo #15), a cone-shaped peak within the crater. Returning to Portland for our last night on the road, we prepared for our next day's flight home.

 

     Our Great Britain adventure began in London, a huge and exciting city. There was no need of a car for the first few days. We simply walked or took public transportation. One of the first things we did was to take a Big Bus Company tour, which is a narrated trip through the city's major sights, and, with a 24hour ticket, visitors are allowed to get off, then pick up another bus to continue the tour (extremely convenient especially for more distant attractions).  The tour also gives a good orientation to the city and its various enclaves.

    Our hotel (one of the Thistles, a British chain) was located right next to the Tower Bridge (Photo #2), one of London's major attractions and a symbol of the city. The Tower Bridge Experience provides visitors with lots of information about the history, operation, and construction of the bridge. We expected great views of the Thames and London's riverfront from the top level but were disappointed that there were only a few tiny windows available.

    Right beside the bridge is one of London's most popular attractions, The Tower of London (Photo #1). Over time, it has been a residence of British monarchs, a weapons storage facility, a treasury (it still holds the crown jewels), and, most famously, a prison. Each tour is led by a "beefeater" (yeoman warden) who is very knowledgeable about the storied history of the place. We learned about the beheadings, the Bloody Tower, and the legend of the Ravens.

   Upriver from the tower is the financial district and further, the government district. This was our next stop. We were positively enchanted with Parliament and Big Ben (actually the name of the bell, not the tower) (Photo #3) -- their architecture is beautiful and they are exquisitely maintained. Nearby is Westminster Abbey (Photo #4), the famous church where British monarchs are crowned, has become more like a museum than a church, since it contains the tombs of so many famous Brits.  There are also special memorials to famous non-royals. My favorite was the Poet's Corner.

    One of the city's most popular gathering places is Trafalgar Square (Photo #5), not far from the Abbey. The large square is dominated by a statue of Lord Trafalgar and a large fountain where hundreds congregate. Around the square are some notable attractions. The British Museum, storehouse of treasures from around the globe, is at one end.  On another side of the square is St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, where we had a bite to eat in its "Cafe in the Crypt", an interesting venue.

    The obligatory "Changing of the Guard" at Buckingham Palace (Photo #6) was next on our agenda, but it was so crowded that it was difficult to see much (get there early if want a good view). Later we witnessed the Changing of the Horse Guard which was just as interesting without as many people.

    Other sights in the city which should be visited include St Paul's Cathedral (Photo #7), where Prince Charles and Diana's wedding took place, Picadilly Circus, the London equivalent to Times Square in New York, and Harrod's Department Store (Photo #8), which is certainly one of the most famous places of its kind in the world, and a truly unique experience. A newer attraction is British Airways' London Eye, a huge ferris wheel on the banks of the Thames which provides incredible views of the city.

    We splurged for dinner at the River Cafe, west of the city center. The chefs, at the time, had a show on the cooking channel. It was worth the additional expense.

   The next day we picked up our rental car. I was somewhat nervous about driving on the left side of the road, but it was fairly easy to get used to (every time I got in to drive, I would remind myself, drive left, look right).  We drove first to Canterbury to see the famous cathedral (Photo #9), but were foiled since there was a graduation that day and the church was closed to visitors. Next we traveled to Dover because I wanted to see the White Cliffs. We did see a portion of them, but it was in an area where we could not park, so I was unable to take pictures.

    Our next stop was Leeds Castle (Photo #10), a wonderfully romantic and picturesque castle with pleasant well-kept grounds and an exquisite presentation inside. Each room was meticulously decorated with extravagant arrangements of fresh flowers. The castle even has a moat around it.

    We then headed for Brighton, on the south coast, to see the Royal Pavilion (Photo #10), an elaborate palace with Eastern architecture and Chinese furnishings. We arrived just prior to closing, so our visit was fairly short. Our return to London took forever because of a huge traffic jam, but we made it.

    The next morning we left London to head west toward Bath. Our first stop was Oxford (Photo #11), "the city of dreamy spires" where we felt spiritual and awed because we were walking in the footsteps of some of the greatest minds in the history of civilization. We wandered the beautiful campuses of the various colleges.

    The next stop was Warwick Castle (Photo #12), the epitome of a classic castle -- very large, formidable, high on a cliff, a true fortress. This castle was also elegantly displayed with wax figures, dressed in turn-of-the-century costumes, participating in realistic scenes. There was great attention to detail, with such touches as running water in the bath, a cigarette lighter lighting, etc. Again, the grounds were meticulous -- the Brits sure take good care of their historic properties.

    Next we went to Stratford-on-Avon, the birthplace of William Shakespeare. Parking was impossible so we just did a drive by of Shakespeare's Home and then the Anne Hathaway Cottage (his wife's childhood home) (Photo #13).  We then continued on an interesting and picturesque drive through the Cotswolds, a bevy of villages with strange-sounding names, in the hills northwest of London. We drove through towns like Stow-on-the-Wold, Chipping Campden, Upper and Lower Slaughter and Cirencester, stopping occasionally for pictures or a pint. At last we arrived in Bath.

     We began the next day by driving to Stonehenge (Photo #14), certainly a highlight for me. These stone monuments are almost 5,000 years old, left by people we know little about, and were brought here from a distance of 50 or 60 miles and no one knows how. There is obviously much mystery associated with this place.  Have the delicious rock cakes at the concession stand.

     From Stonehenge, we traveled to Stourhead Gardens (Lee loves gardens) and thoroughly enjoyed a quiet two-mile stroll around the lake.  The entire experience was extremely tranquil and spiritual.

     In the afternoon, we returned to Bath to see the sights in this beautiful town with Georgian architecture and flowers cascading from window boxes.  The most important sights are the Roman Baths (Photo #16)(take the audiotour), the Bath Abbey (Photo #15), another pretty church, and the Royal Crescent, a row of upper class Georgian apartments overlooking a park.  We had a lovely "tea" at the Pump Room, serenaded by a chamber ochestra.

    Then it was north to Scotland.  We got an early start and stopped first at Stoke-on-Trent, famous for its fine china. We took the tour at Wedgewood, and picked up some Christmas dishes at Spode. We continued north to the Lake District, one of the most popular vacation spots for the British. We passed through the lovely towns of Windermere and Grasmere, enjoyed the scenic vistas, then entered Scotland. The Scottish landscape is similar to England's but more wild and less cultivated.

    As we neared Edinburgh, we located our hotel, the Dalhousie Castle (Photo #17). What an incredible experience, staying in real castle! It was worth every penny of our splurge!   

    We ate breakfast the next morning in the dungeon at the castle (what a setting), then took off on our Scottish ramble, a scenic drive through the highlands. We traveled through the Trossachs and on to Glen Coe (Photo #21), a beautiful area in the highlands where rocky crags top lush, green meadows with sheep and Highland cattle grazing. Travel was very slow because of traffic and windy, narrow roads. We next stopped at the legendary Loch Ness, home of the famous and mysterious monster (although we looked constantly, we never even caught a glimpse). We took pictures at the ruins of Urquhart Castle (Photo #22), on a promontory jutting into the lake. A bagpiper serenaded visitors (nice touch!).

     At Inverness we turned and headed back toward Edinburgh, managing to stop for a few moments at Blair Castle. We also stopped briefly in Edinburgh, although it was somewhat late.

    The next day was totally committed to Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. We started at Edinburgh Castle, an incredibly ominous fortification at one end of the old town. We toured the grounds and learned about its history. Then we began our stroll down the Royal Mile, the street, lined with shops and crowded with people, connecting the castle with Holyrood Palace (Photo #19), residence of the Queen when she is visiting. Along the way, we stopped at St Giles Cathedral (Photo #20), with its distinctive tower and very old, dark interior.

    In Holyrood, much of the tour centers around the life and times of Mary, Queen of Scots, who, as the rival of Queen Elizabeth I, was eventually beheaded at the Tower of London. We climbed Calton Hill (Photo #18)which provides a great view of the city, even as far as the Firth of Forth.

    Next we walked to Princes Street, the main shopping street of the city, located in what is called New Town. Here we admired the Sir Walter Scott Memorial, strolled Princes Garden, did our shopping and then returned to Dalhousie.

    The next morning we headed back into England, stopping first at Hadrian's Wall (Photo #23), a 75 mile fortification built by the Romans in around 100 AD. We strolled through Housestead Fort, one of the better-preserved Roman outposts, then continued southward to York (Photo #24). We strolled the ancient cobblestone streets of this Medieval, walled city, and visited the famous York Minster, one of England's largest and most beautiful Gothic churches.

    We left for London early the next morning and only made one stop, at the lovely town of Cambridge (Photo #25), where we again reveled in recalling the impressive list of former students. The King's College Chapel was gorgeous, and we enjoyed watching people "punting" on the Cam.

    We had one last day in London which we spent walking some of the neighborhoods of the city, then flew out the next day for home.

 

    Lessons learned:

             1.  England is a great destination for Americans because the language barrier that you are normally confronting is almost non-existent.

             2. Don't be too concerned about driving on the left, it was not as difficult to get used to as I feared. A family member suggestion to be sure to get an automatic was probably good advice. It might have been much harder if I had to worry about shifting also.

             3.  Again, getting into and out of cities is inevitably a real challenge. Invest in good maps! 

     Our first Caribbean cruise began in San Juan, Puerto Rico.  We arrived a day early so we could spend some time in San Juan. Old San Juan is very quaint, with cobblestone streets and interesting architecture. At the ocean end of the harbor is one of the most important tourist sights, Castillo de San Felipe del Morro or just El Morro as it is known locally. El Morro is a quintessential Spanish Fort and has steadfastly guarded the entrance to the harbor for hundreds of years. We strolled the tree-lined Paseo de la Princesa which leads around the outside of the city walls. Inside the walls is La Fortaleza, the residence of the Puerto Rican governor, and Casa Blanca, a home built for Ponce de Leon by his son-in-law (although the explorer never lived here). There are also some interesting churches, many pastel-colored residences, other fortifications and numerous shops and restaurants.

      Our next stop was Trinidad where we took a tour of the island, which included a stop at the Botanical Gardens, a scenic drive through the highlands, and a stop at a well-known beach. The capital city, Port of Spain, is rather seedy so we briefly strolled the main street and headed back to the ship.

     Next on the itinerary was the beautiful island of Barbados, easternmost of the Caribbean islands. Once again we chose to tour the island by bus, stopping at the lovely Andromeda Gardens, wild and rough Bathsheba Beach, with its interesting offshore rocks, and a drive through the countryside.

     On Antigua, we decided to forego an excursion and just wander the streets of St Johns, our embarkation point. The girls enjoyed the shopping while the guys did some bar hopping.

     Next was Martinique, an island with a definite French flavor which its name suggests. Here we did some snorkeling at one of the numerous reefs, then walked the streets of Fort de France, with its interesting architecture. The highlight for me was seeing Mt Pelee, the volcano which dominates the island and which is notorious for its devastating eruptions.

    Then we headed for St Thomas, the most popular, almost obligatory stop for cruise ships because of its incredible duty-free shopping. Every alleyway and street is lined with hundreds of shops or mini-malls, trying to entice visitors to come in and browse. One wonders how all the jewelry shops can possibly survive! A few of us took the excursion to St John, another island in the US Virgin Islands chain. Much of St John has been set aside as a National Park. Our scenic drive from the port brought us to Trunk Bay, a lovely stretch of white sand beach in a protected bay, fringed with reef. What a great spot!

    After returning to Charlotte Amalie, our port on St Thomas, we boarded and returned to San Juan and then home.

 

Lessons learned:

     1. Cruise ships make a lot of money on excursions.  Remedy: Don't hesitate to venture off on your own, just be sure to pre-arrange everything with your cabby or driver. Time is especially critical, since the cruise ship will not wait for you if you are on your own.

     2. People pack too many clothes for trips like this.  Remedy: Pack light. Expect to get at least two wearings from each piece of clothing (except underwear and socks, please) and bring things which can be mixed and matched for greater versatility.

     3. Tipping on cruise ships has totally gotten out of hand.  Remedy: Tip only for exceptional service! If someone like a supervisor in the restaurant has barely spoken to you, don't bother. Save your money and give generously to the people who have truly made your stay comfortable and enjoyable.  

    This was a lengthy sojourn designed to follow up our 1993 Cross Country trip and to visit places not included then.  Our first stop was Baltimore, MD, to spend some time at its famous Inner Harbor. It is truly a wonderful example of urban renewal -- the harbor area bustles with locals and tourists at all times of the day or night.  Water taxis were a great way to get around, taking us to various neighborhoods along the harbor and eventually out to Fort McHenry, which guards the entrance to the harbor and which was the site of the British bombing which sparked Francis Scott Key to write our National Anthem.   

    That evening we went to Camden Yard, not to see an Oriole game, although one was in progress, but just to see the ballpark and its environs -- it certainly is a great concept -- a very pleasant atmosphere to watch a game and nicely incorporated into the "new" Baltimore.

    The next day we made an excursion to Annapolis, once a capital of the United States, now capital of Maryland and home to the US Naval Academy. The city is delightful, great for walking and extremely historic. We had lunch at Buddy's, on the waterfront.  Lee had great Maryland Crabcakes!  After lunch we visited the grounds of the Naval Academy (don't miss the Tomb of John Paul Jones, one of America's greatest naval heroes).

    We left Baltimore and headed south along the eastern shore of Maryland in order to take the Chesapeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel to Virginia. The 17 mile long bridge with 2 tunnels is a significant engineering achievement and very pleasant to drive. It provides convenient access to the Hampton Roads section of Virginia, including Williamsburg, which was our next destination.

    Our first stop in Virginia was at Yorktown National Historic Site, the location of the British surrender at the end of the Revolutionary War. The Visitor Center provides a film which describes Yorktown in 1781, then we strolled through the village. It was a nice prelude to Williamsburg. From Yorktown we drove along the scenic Colonial Parkway past Williamsburg and on to Jamestown, site of the first European settlement in the New World (1607). Nothing remains of the original village, but archaeologists are currently excavating and discovering more about the reasons for the settlement not surviving.

    We then returned to Williamsburg and checked into our hotel. The following morning we went to the Visitor Center at Colonial Williamsburg. Williamsburg is the quintessential open-air museum. It is an authentic recreation of an 18th century city, frozen in time. Employees in the town are dressed in period costume, speak in the language of the time, and demonstrate the skills of artisan of colonial America. It is all fascinating! In addition, there are various events throughout the day (be sure to get a schedule at the Visitor Center and plan accordingly).

    Our first stop was the Peyton Randolph House where several ladies were having "tea".  The most interesting event of our day was "A Conversation With Patrick Henry", the famous American patriot. The actor was excellent, always in role and very informative about the life and times of this American hero. There was a parade, with fife and drum corps, and opportunities to visit many restored buildings, including the courthouse, jail, etc. The most important building was the Governor's Palace with its huge display of weapons. We even had an authentic lunch at the King's Arms Tavern.   

     The next part of our journey was southeast to the Outer Banks of North Carolina. This area is isolated from the mainland with the only actual land access at the northern end of what is a series of barrier beaches. Our chosen base of operations was Nags Head. Sandy beaches stretch for miles and behind the beaches are several areas of dunes -- it is an unusual landscape. Our major destination here was the Wright Brothers Memorial, set on the site (Kittyhawk) where they made history in 1903 with the first powered flight. The museum was very interesting and we walked up to the memorial monolith, at the top of the hill from which they launched their attempts.

     That evening we attended a very unusual and interesting theater presentation, called "The Lost Colony".  It was a dramatization of the disappearance of the Roanoke Colony, started by Sir Walter Raleigh.  History buffs will remember that this was the colony where the first child was born to Europeans in the New World -- her name was Virginia Dare. She and the remainder of the colony all mysteriously disappeared the following year. No one knows what became of them. The setting for this theater is glorious -- in a specially constructed outdoor amphitheater next to the water.  It turned out to be a beautiful night, weatherwise, which could have been a problem. If you want to see a performance, reservations must be made well in advance.  

    We left the Outer Banks by driving south and taking the ferry from Okracoke (be sure to make advance reservations during the summer) and headed for Charleston, South Carolina, one of the last true vestiges of the Old South. The city is great for walking (the Visitor Center has maps and an orientation video). The architecture is distinctive, with the houses having narrow frontages and great depth (because people were taxed based on frontage), and beautiful flowered courtyards. Favorite places include Rainbow Row, a line of pastel-colored homes along the waterfront, and the Battery, now a park which houses fortifications from the Civil War.

    We also took a boat ride to Fort Sumter, famous as the sight of the first conflict of the Civil War. The fort was designed just like Fort McHenry and is situated at the head of Charleston harbor. Another excursion we took from Charleston was to Magnolia Plantation, a delightful remnant of a Southern estate. The grounds were lovely with several walking trails and an old plantation house with pillars and large porch. The Spanish Moss draping the oak trees provided the final touch.

    Continuing south, we stopped for a few hours at Savannah, another beautiful throwback to an earlier era. This city is famous for its squares, part of a grid-like system designed by Oglethorpe, the founder of Georgia. The squares are now public parks and provide little clusters of green within the city. Our favorite was Forsythe Square.  The waterfront is also worth a visit, since there is much going on and there are lots of shops and restaurants.

    Next we checked out the Sea Islands of Georgia -- not worth the time in my estimation -- where there are numerous mansions since this area has long been a playground of the rich. Then we proceeded on to St Augustine, one of the highlights of our trip. This city has a well-preserved old town which is delightful to stroll. Flagler College, which was the former estate of the railroad magnate, Henry Flagler, offers a nice tour of their facilities, showcasing some of its ornate and intricate woodwork and design.

   Also of special note is the fortress, Castillo San Marco, which is a typical Spanish fort and was designed to provide protection from enemy navies and several churches, particularly the Flagler Memorial Church.

   Miami was next on our itinerary. Our hotel, right on South Beach was a great disappointment. However, we were only staying for two nights so we decided to "guts" it out. South Beach is a lovely stretch of sand, overpopulated by the "beautiful people" with muscular and curvaceous bodies and perfect tans. We certainly felt out of place.  The Art Deco buildings were very interesting (we went on a walking tour of the area to check them out) and their "over-the-top" neon lighting turned out to be quite attractive.

   We found a very moving and somber attraction not far from our hotel, called the Miami Holocaust Memorial. Pictures on the walls depict depressing scenes from the holocaust and, in the center of a large pool of water is an intriguing and symbolic sculpture of a large green arm and open hand rising from the water strewn with people hanging on.

    The following day we went to Everglades National Park, not a wonderful place to visit in the summertime. The mosquitoes are everywhere and attack immediately when you are exposed, so we had to basically stay in the car to look around. This might be a good place to return to in the winter. In the afternoon, we visited Vizcaya, the neo-classic mansion which belonged to the Deere family (of International Harvester fame). Admission is expensive, so we were disappointed, especially in the way it was maintained.  The setting, however, is lovely and the attraction has potential.

    Our next stop was Key West, the irreverent, happy-go-lucky place which brags that it is the southernmost point in the continental United States. We absolutely loved it! The Conch Train Tour provides an excellent orientation. After that, we simply walked everywhere. Mallory Square is a great gathering place, especially at sunset. Sloppy Joe's has to be one of the best people-watching locales in the world (very strange individuals frequent the place).  We loved the Hemingway House with its polydactyl cats and walked every inch of Duval Street.  We were even impressed with the Southernmost House, a very attractive chateau. But it was the fun-loving life style that we truly enjoyed.

    We then headed to Fort Myers to beach it for a few days at Sanibel Island. It was designed to be rest and recuperation in preparation for the second half of our trip, and it was. We felt rejuvenated and ready to tackle Disney World.

    On the way to Orlando, we stopped at Cypress Gardens, Florida's first theme park. It was certainly focused around water, in particular, the Cypress Swamp and associated lake. This park is famous for its water-skiing show -- very entertaining. We also took a boat tour of the Botanical Gardens, very attractive and relaxing on the boat. We then walked back to several locations within the gardens to take pictures and get a closer look.  

    Disney World is the number one attraction in Florida and also the entire USA. We spent several days in the park, especially in places that were new to us, such as Animal World, a wonderful venue, a Disney version of a zoo (the Tree of Life is a spectacular achievement), and Disney-MGM, entirely focused on the film industry. We also made obligatory stops at the Magic Kingdom and Epcot. Summer is probably the best time to visit, despite the crowds, since the park is open late at night and there are special evening shows.  We felt like kids again.

    On our way to Atlanta, we stopped at Calloway Gardens, in Pine Mountain, GA, and drove through the lovely grounds. Once in Atlanta, we stopped first at attractive Centennial Park, a remnant of the 1996 Summer Olympics, then arrived at CNN Studios for our pre-arranged tour (the VIP Tour is well worth the extra money). It was a fascinating behind the scenes look at a modern broadcasting studio.

    Later, we headed for the World of Coca-Cola, which depicts the history and evolution of America's favorite drink from its early days to the present.  There is even a tasting room!  Nearby is an entrance to Underground Atlanta, loaded with shops and restaurants.

   Our next stop was several miles outside the city -- Stone Mountain is a huge boulder, five miles in circumference and over 800 feet tall. On one side of the mountain is a huge carving of the three central figures of the Confederacy, Robert E Lee, Jefferson Davis, and Stonewall Jackson, all on horseback. The sculptures are the height of a nine-story building yet seem dwarfed by the mountain. A very impressive sight!

    We left Atlanta and headed northwest into the hills, finally entering Great Smoky Mountains National Park and taking Newfound Gap Road, the major north-south route through the park to our hotel in Gatlinburg, TN. We spent several marvelous days exploring this park, the most visited in the US. Highlights included Cades Cove Road, a great place to spot wildlife and also rich in history, Newfound Gap Road which accesses Clingman's Dome and other mountainous features of the park, several waterfall walks which were invigorating and serene, and the very interesting Roaring Fork Auto Tour.

    Our last major destination was Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky. On the way we stopped the Kentucky Horse Park, in Lexington, a very interesting museum and entertainment venue devoted to one of man's most important animal companions. We enjoyed the Parade of Breeds which showcased the differences among the types of horses. Also of interest to us was the Man o' War Memorial, a statue commemorating one of the greatest of all thoroughbreds, and a stop at the barn where we actually petted the famous horse, Cigar.

    Mammoth Cave claims to be the largest cave system in the world. We took our pre-arranged Travertine Tour where we were amazed at the "drapes", stalagmites and stalactites, as well as Crystal Lake. It was great but not as impressive as Carlsbad.

    Before returning home, we made some family stops and our lengthy adventure came to a close, 27 days after we started.

 

Lessons learned:

    1. It is always a good idea to make advance reservations for popular tourist attractions, so as not to be disappointed. We saw a number of people turned away at Mammoth Cave and others who had to wait till much later in the day because the did not make plans ahead. Similar things happened at the Okracoke Ferry and at CNN Studios. The down side of this strategy is that the trip has little flexibility.

    2. The "no-see-ums" at Sanibel Island and the mosquitoes at the Everglades were very annoying.  We learned to pack insect repellent on subsequent trips.

      We took this trip in the summer, beginning with a one-night stay in Augusta, Maine, then taking a scenic drive along Route 201, through the Rangeley Lakes, to arrive in the very European city of Quebec. Quebec Province is largely French-speaking, although there are, of course, many who also speak English. However, it is certainly advantageous to have a French phrasebook handy -- the Quebecois really appreciate those who attempt to converse in their language (much as Europeans do).

    Quebec's Old Town is absolutely charming, with cobblestone streets and 17th century architecture. The dominating feature of the Upper Town is the famous Chateau Frontenac, which sits on the edge of a cliff above the St Lawrence River. Even if unable to afford to stay here, at least have a drink or maybe lunch on the terrace with its commanding views.

    Other sites in the Upper Town include the Citadel, the imposing gates into the city, and National Battlefields Park which commemorates the famous battle between the English (Wolfe) and French (Montcalm) for control of the city. Note the elegant Parliament Building with its attractive and manicured grounds nearby.  Also be sure to walk the Dufferin Terrace, a boardwalk along the cliff face.

    The Lower Town is even more charming because there is less traffic (many of the streets are pedestrian-only) and less accessible. Walk down the stairs, then return after your visit via the funicular. Be sure to wander through Place Royale, where there are often events taking place, and then down to the harbor to get the view looking back to the city from the water. There are buildings, such as the Eglise Notre-Dame to explore as well as myriad shops and restaurants.

    A short excursion from town brought us to Montmorency Falls, Quebec's puny answer to Niagara Falls. Actually, the falls are pretty nice -- they just shouldn't try to compare them to one of the most spectacular places on earth. In the same vicinity is a popular pilgrimage church, the Basilique de Ste-Anne-de-Beaupre.

   After 3 nights, we left Quebec and headed southwest along the river to Montreal, a much more cosmopolitan and much larger city. Even here, though, there are touches of the area's European past. We wandered the cobblestone streets of Vieux Montreal (Old Town) and were impressed with the architecture and ambience. Place Jacques Cartier is a delightful square with several outdoor restaurants and shops.

   One of the most beautiful sights in the city is the Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-Montreal, with its glorious, blue interior -- a truly magnificent house of worship. Montreal is a center for higher education in Canada, and the area around Mc Gill University is a wonderful place to stroll because of the vibrancy and enthusiasm of the people here and the many shops and restaurants.  Just southeast of the University, on a side street of Rue Sherbrooke, is an interesting and somewhat controversial sculpture, The Illuminated Crowd.

    We happened to be in the city during the time of Montreal International Jazz Festival and were treated to several outdoor concerts. Because Montreal is an important center for Arts, there are a number of similar events throughout the year.

    Away from the downtown area is Olympic Stadium and Olympic Park, which was the location of many events during the 1976 Olympic Games. Go to the top of Montreal Tower for great views of the city and surrounding area. Nearby is Montreal Botanical Gardens which are extensive, attractive, and offer solitude and escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Also nearby is the Biodome, designed by Buckminster Fuller, which displays several ecosystems in an environmental showcase.

    We returned to the United States via upstate New York, and traveled down Interstate 87 through the scenic Adirondacks. We stopped at Lake Placid, the scene of several Winter Olympics, and strolled the cute, but touristy village along the lake, but, unfortunately, were forced to bypass the Whiteface Mountain Memorial Highway because of time constraints.

    Because we were planning to attend my Family Reunion in West Virginia, we decided to take a road trip which would culminate in the reunion weekend. We decided to begin our journey in Philadelphia, one of the cradles of United States democracy and a destination steeped in history. Philly, at least the old, historical part of the city, is extremely charming and fun. Since it was summertime, there were many activities available. We spent most of our time reliving 18th century pre-Revolutionary War events, such as the signing of the Declaration of Independence at Independence Hall, and the life and times of Benjamin Franklin, displayed at Franklin Court.

    The Independence National Historical Park contains these venues plus the Liberty Bell. Check in at the Visitor Center for information, schedules, and an orientation film.  Try also to experience the Lights of Liberty Show which begins at dusk during the summer.

    Elsewhere in the city, the Reading Terminal Market is one of the finest of its kind in the US, plus it is indoors so that weather is not a problem.  It is basically a food market although there are many other items for sale. South Philly is the Italian section of the city, made famous in the Rocky films. Here visitors will find outdoor stalls as well as shops selling all things Italian. This is also where the famous "Philly Cheese Steak" sandwich originated.

    Philadelphia's City Hall should certainly be seen, with its statue of William Penn atop its tower. The best view is from top of the stairs of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, , looking back down flag-lined Ben Franklin Parkway toward the downtown.

    From Philly, we traveled west to Lancaster, PA, to sample Amish country. Here the theme is "back-to-basics", focusing on a culture which refuses to adopt modern conveniences. We were amazed by the efficiency of their farms and the quality of their products. There are numerous attractions which profess to offer a glimpse inside the world of the Amish. Driving through the countryside from unusual-named village to unusual-named village, stopping whenever and wherever the spirit is moved is probably the best way to sample this culture.

   From Lancaster, we headed southwest and into Virginia. We picked up the beautiful Skyline Drive in Front Royal and admired the scenery as well headed south through Shenandoah National Park, stopping at overlooks and walking an occasional trail.

    Near Waynesboro, we exited the drive and headed east to Charlottesville, our next destination. Here we spent a morning at Monticello, a monument, in a sense, to its owner and designer, Thomas Jefferson. Jefferson loved this estate and spent considerable time here on his various and sundry projects. He happens to be my favorite president so I was enthralled and entertained by his eclectic tastes and interests. We then spent the remainder of the day touring the University of Virginia, Jefferson's other masterpiece.

    The following day we traveled west into my home state of West Virginia. I had decided on this trip to revisit several places which I remembered from my childhood. Our first stop was Seneca Rocks, an unusual notch in an exposed rocky ridge (probably impressive when I was a child but not particularly inspiring now). Then we headed further west to Black Water Falls State Park.  The large waterfall I remembered as a child looked so much smaller now (I guess Thomas Wolfe was right), but was still interesting and a worthwhile stop.

    Next it was on to the reunion and immersion all things family.

    Our annual pilgrimage to "The Spa" for its August thoroughbred racing calendar began innocently enough with a military weekend conference in Albany. An early afternoon dismissal led to a spur-of-the-moment jaunt up Interstate 87 to Saratoga Springs Race Track. It was so enjoyable that we decided to spend a weekend the following year. This has not only led to yearly trips for long weekends, but has also spilled over to include family and friends. Now we spend a minimum of two separate weekends there and also find time for a day trip or two.

   Saratoga racing is fairly unique in that patrons are encouraged to picnic on the pleasant grounds behind the grandstands. The area has numerous trees for shade and many TV monitors and picnic tables. The area has become more and more popular over the years. For instance, on Travers Weekend (The Travers Stakes is the top race of the summer here, with a $1 million dollar purse), not only are all the tables taken by 7:01 AM, but, by the start of the racing day, just about all the available ground space is also taken by the hordes of bettors and their families and friends. We now avoid Travers' weekend for this reason.

   But the overall experience is definitely addicting. The atmosphere is festive, with all types of food and drink being consumed in great quantities throughout the day. Add to this the gorgeous thoroughbreds, their colorful jockeys, the owners and trainers in all their finery, and you have the makings of a Mecca. There are hundreds of people who spend their entire summer at Saratoga.

   And if all this is not enough, there is also the charming town, with pleasant-to-walk streets, lined with shops and restaurants, residential neighborhoods of lovely, Victorian homes, and a city park whose gorgeous grounds are festooned with flowers and even a carousel.    There are many other activities available in the area as well. There are museums (the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame is here), dancing productions, a casino, and, of course, the spas from which the city got its name. Less than an hour north is Lake George with its many recreational opportunities, and, beyond that, the Adirondacks.

   If you go on a weekend, the only way to insure getting a table is to arrive before 7 AM, wait in line for the gates to open, go in an stake out a table, leaving a tablecloth or chairs to claim the table as yours (don't worry, no one will steal your stuff), then return when the ticket stalls are opened (usually 10:30 or 11 AM depending on the day).  Most people actually return before 10 AM so they can bring all their other paraphernalia to the table before the grounds are cleared prior to the start of ticket-selling.  

    Since there were no more opportunities to add photos, I decided to make a second entry for this trip

 

    We left off in Pisa (see photos). Then we continued on to Nice, which is probably the most popular base of operations for an exploration of this area. The setting along the picturesque Mediterranean coast is great, but a drive eastward took us to the wonderful village of Eze which is perched precariously on a cliff and offers superb views. Eze is charming with its narrow cobblestone streets (see photo) and cave-like shops and hotels. The Cactus Garden at the uppermost part of town provides the best views.

  A little further east is the tiny principality of Monaco with one of the world's best known casinos, Monte Carlo (see photo) where Lee managed to win $50.

   From Nice, we headed north to Paris, one of the world's most beautiful cities. We had a wonderful dinner in a restaurant inside the Eiffel Tower and followed that with a romantic cruise on the Seine in a Bateau Mouche. Since Paris is at the western end of its time zone, it was still dusk at 10:30 PM so the evening cruise was spectacular and relaxing. The next day, we explored the rest of the city, stopping, of course, at the Louvre, arguably the best museum in the world, the Arc d'Triomphe, Napoleon's tribute to his own fame, Sacre Coeur, the beautiful white church high up in the Montmartre section of the city, Notre Dame Cathedral, with its gargoyles and flying buttresses, and numerous other places.

    Notable among the others were the Luxembourg Gardens, a tranquil oasis of greenery in this large urban environment, and a stroll down the Champs Elysses, one of the world's most famous avenues.

    One morning of our stay was spent at Versailles, the opulent palace which is the most popular excursion from the city. Its Hall of Mirrors is extremely impressive, as were its grounds and gardens. The only problem was the din from numerous tour groups and their guides who are all speaking loudly to try to be heard.

    The last stop on our momentous journey was the village of Beaune, a charming town in the burgundy region of the country, noted for its wine and for its unusual looking hospice, the Hotel-Dieu. From here it was back to Basel and then home.

 

Lessons learned:

      1. Europeans are more helpful and friendly if you attempt to speak the language, so practice before a trip and never be without your phrasebook.

      2. Driving in Europe is much different than in USA -- except for major highways, travel is slower so reduce expectations about what can be accomplished in one day or at least be prepared to trim itinerary.

     3. In cities, a good map is invaluable. Negotiating city streets is extremely difficult since many street signs are non-existent or not able to be seen until it's too late.

    Our first trip to Europe began in Basel, Switzerland (my niece was graduating from high school and the event offered an excuse to go).  The city of Basel is located on the Rhine River, at the junction of Switzerland, France, and Germany, a perfect location for launching an exploration of all three. While in Basel, we walked its charming Old Town, particularly impressed with its red Town Hall (Rathaus) and its numerous fountains.

   We took several day trips while staying Basel. One involved traveling east across the border into the Alsace Region of France.  We traveled along its famous "Wine Route" through several absolutely charming villages. The most memorable were Kaysersburg, Ribeauville, and Riquewihr. Visitors are truly amazed at the village pride represented by the incredible display of flowers from balconies and window boxes and the immaculate way the towns are kept (see photos).

   Another excursion brought us to the beautiful old town of Berne, Switzerland.  Highlights here included the impressive Munster (Cathedral) with its intricate carvings of "Heaven" and "Hell" above the doorway, the famous Glockenspiel which heralds each hour with the fascinating movements of several figures (get there early to stake out a good vantage point), and the Bear Pit, at the entrance to the Old Town, where the town mascots are kept. We also walked up to the Rose Garden for a wonderful bird's eye view of the town and the River Aare which flows beside it.

     After Christina's graduation, we set off on our own to sample some of the best of southern Europe. Our first stop on this memorable journey was the beautiful town of Luzerne, Switzerland. The most dramatic attraction in town is the Kappelbrucke, the covered bridge, which, incredibly, boasts paintings chronicling the history of Switzerland in successive panels under its roof. One section of the bridge boasts a tower which used to be a prison. The entire scene is made even more impressive by Luzerne's setting on the lake at the base of Mt Pilatus which looms in the distance.

     From Luzerne, we traveled southeast through the Bernese Oberland and across the Alps toward Italy. En route we stopped at the lovely lakeside village of Lugano (see photo).  We walked along the flower-bedecked paths and soaked up the ambience of this somewhat tropical location at the base of the Alps.

    We continued south into Italy and, after a brief stop in Como (not a particularly attractive town), we reached Milan. Milan is a huge, sprawling city, but has several notable attractions which make it a required stop on any northern Italian itinerary. The Duomo (cathedral) is absolutely stunning, with its ornate facade, spires, and statues (see photo). Right across the square is La Scala, perhaps the most famous opera house in the world.  Also popular is Da Vinci's painting, The Last Supper, located in the Santa Maria della Grazie convent. The painting has become extremely controversial lately because of its significance in the blockbuster movie, The Da Vinci Code.

    From Milan, we headed east to Venice, the most unique city in the world. Located on myriad islands, connected by bridges, it is a walker's dream because no vehicles (only boats) are allowed in the city. Narrow waterways are crossed by stone bridges and the maze of alleys insures that all visitors must get lost. The most important sights of the city are found in the San Marco section and revolve Venice's incredible square, Piazza San Marco, which has as its focal point the Basilica San Marco, the incredible Byzantine-style church with its elaborate mosaics and multiple domes. Nearby is the Campanile (bell tower) which offers marvelous views of the city and its picturesque lagoon. Beside the church is the Doge's Palace (Doges were the powerful governors of the city-state) which sports grandiose corridors and rooms and excellent artwork. Visitors are even allowed to cross the Bridge of Sighs into the dark and dank prison.

     Of course, the most romantic activity in Venice is a gondola ride, and, despite the expense, it is a must-do for first-timers. It offers a very different perspective on the entire scene -- the quiet and solitude of gliding along small, narrow canals without the hordes of people is both tranquil and mesmerizing.

    From Venice, we headed southwest to the cradle of the Renaissance, Florence. Here the attractions are all about Art and Architecture. One of the world's greatest museums, the Uffizi Gallery, was one of our first stops. It possesses the greatest number of paintings from this period in the entire world. Note especially Botticelli's Birth of Venus. The building itself is spectacular since it once belonged to one of the most powerful families in Italy, the Medici's.

    Another must-see attraction in Florence is its famous Duomo, with its gorgeous facade of pink, green, and white marble. The Campanile and the dome were designed by Brunelleschi -- the dome, in particular, was ground-breaking when constructed and has become a recogizable symbol of the city. Another interesting church is Santa Croce, which is remarkable because it contains the tombs of some of the most famous Italians in history, people like Michelangelo, Galileo, and Machiavelli.

    Perhaps the most famous sculpture in the world, Michelangelo's David is housed in the Galleria dell' Academia and impresses because of its size and amazing detail. We had lunch on the Piazza Signoria, near the Uffizi, which displays a copy of the David as well as several other notable sculptures.

    We spent some time shopping on the Ponte Vecchio, a covered bridge over the Arno River which is lined with shops and also checked out the Santa Maria Novella Church with its interesting exterior.

    Next we headed further south to the Tuscan Hill Town of Siena, whose narrow streets and alleyways are a pleasure to walk. We were extremely impressed by the Duomo which almost rivals Florence in beauty. All life in Siena revolves around the Piazza del Campo, a huge and elegant square which is so large that its actually hosts a horse race twice a year.

     Then it was on to the "Eternal City" of Rome. We were awed walking on the same marble blocks which Julius Caesar walked in the Roman Forum.  It ends at perhaps the most important attraction in the entire city, the Colosseum, where gladiatorial combat was waged in front of thousands of fans.

    What was most charming about Rome was that as we wandered the streets and alleys, we would occasionally emerge at a square which sported an obelisk or sculpture which might be hundreds or thousands of years old.

    My favorite building in Rome is the Pantheon, perhaps the best preserved ancient site in the entire city. The multicolored, marble interior is beautiful and in excellent condition. It is still used as a house of worship.

    Near Rome's center, but ironically a separate country is Vatican City, the focal point of world Catholicism since it contains St Peter's Basilica, one of the largest churches in the world. We marveled at the beautiful dome, designed by Michelangelo, and the incredibly ornate and gilded interior. Also here is the Vatican Museum, which is another of the world's greatest storehouses of Art and Sculpture. Add to this the unbelievable grandeur of the Sistene Chapel, Michelangelo's most famous work, and it is no wonder that Rome is one of the most important tourist destinations in the world.

    Other notable sights in the city include the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Navona, with Bernini's famous sculpture, The Four Rivers. We should have spent more time here. 

    Our next destination was Nice, France and the French Riviera.  Along the way, we made a brief stop in Pisa to see the famous Leaning Tower in its glorious setting, the Piazza dei Miracoli (Place of miracles).  We were, of course, drawn here by the presence of the iconic tower but were surprised to find an impressive Duomo and Baptistry as well. We were disappointed that we could not climb the tower (construction was in process to prevent its collapse), but today, visitors can once again ascend to the legendary place where Galileo dropped objects to prove that gravity accelerates all falling bodies equally.

   

 

    Lee and I took my daughter Samantha (14) on this trip during the summer. We started at Niagara Falls, in upstate New York, on the Canadian Border. We stayed on the Canadian side since it is more relaxed and quiet (plus the exchange rate was extremely beneficial at the time, creating more value).  A highlight for her was lunch at the Skylon Tower. The food was nothing special but the view was fantastic.  The restaurant slowly revolves so everyone eventually gets a great vista from their table. We did all the obligatory "get wet" things, in particular, because of Sam.  Another especially memorable activity was to see the falls at night -- they are spectacularly lit with multi-colored lights.

    From Niagara, we traveled southeast into the Finger Lakes Region. Our first stop was Letchworth State Park, in Castile, where the Genesee River cuts into the surrounding rock creating a gorge and several waterfalls. Our base of operations for this portion of the trip was in the adorable town of Corning, famous for the glass manufacturer with the same name. Its Corning Museum of Glass is well worth an hour or two.

    Our next waterfall was located in Watkins Glen State Park. This park is well-developed as a tourist destination, with an interesting and scenic walk through a gorge which accesses several waterfalls. There is even one which visitors can walk behind and get wet (if they choose). Perhaps even more impressive is "Timespell", an evening multimedia program in the gorge which addresses its origins and Native American history.

    In the area of Ithaca, New York, there were three other falls which we spent some time at. Taughannock Falls State Park offers another walk through a river gorge. Buttermilk Falls and Robert H Treman Falls offered a delightful and different end to our trip -- the opportunity to actually swim under and in a waterfall. These was perhaps Sam's favorite part of the trip.

     Bermuda is a very expensive destination. Food is especially expensive since almost all of it must be imported. However, the island is certainly beautiful and there are numerous activitiies available. Beaches are the most obvious place to start. Unfortunately, most of the beaches are associated with resorts or hotels, so be sure to stay at a place which is on the water.

    Many people get around on the island by renting a motor scooter. Be aware that this may be dangerous for those not familiar with bike-riding, especially since Bermuda is part of the British Empire and, therefore, driving is on the lefthand side of the road.

    Be sure to have a Rum Swizzle at the Swizzle Inn!  Also, try the national drink, Dark and Stormy, made from Black Seal Rum and Ginger Beer.

   Lee and I left on July 16th and drove first to Niagara Falls, which, even though somewhat honky-tonk, is still an incredibly beautiful and exciting place. First stop was the Visitor Center (always an excellent beginning even if you have been to a place before, since it provides maps and information about things to do. Often there are orientation videos and displays). We walked the trails along the falls, rode the Maid of the Mist, and did the Cave of the Winds. All were exhilarating and fun!

   Moving on to Toronto, Canada, we were mesmerized by the view of the Toronto skyline and Lake Ontario from the top of the CN Tower. On the following day we headed for the exciting city of Chicago. Climbing the Sears Tower gave us our first appreciation of its glorious skyline. Later we observed it at night from the front of the Adler Planetarium. We walked the Magnificent Mile, admired the unusual Water Tower (the only building to survive the Great Fire) and had a picnic on the beach at Lake Michigan.

   The next day, we headed for St Louis, Missouri to check out the Gateway Arch. It is an extremely interesting structure with its cool, shiny, silver lines. We were even able to ascend to its apex in a small pod (not for claustrophobics) where we had great views of the Mississippi (there was a tremendous amount of flooding this year) and of the city of St Louis.

   Next it was on to Denver, Colorado where Lee saw the Rockies for the first time. As you approach Denver on the Interstate, you see this persistent and stationary cloud up ahead on the horizon. It keeps getting bigger as you get closer to the city and finally you realize that it is not a cloud at all, but the front range of the mountains. While in Denver, we drove into Rocky Mountain National Park to admire the wonderful scenery, walked some trails, and even spent part of a day White-water Rafting on the Poudre River, west of Fort Collins. While in Denver, we also traveled south to the Air Force Academy to see its lovely chapel and to drive to the top of Pike's Peak (very scary). We also spent an hour or two at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs.

    From Denver, we headed north to South Dakota to be awed by Mount Rushmore, certainly one of America's most patriotic and impressive sights. En route we drove the Needles Highway through Custer State Park.

    Then we headed west into Wyoming. Our first stop here was at the eerie and forbidding Devil's Tower National Monument. We loved the Indian myth about the origin of the place and walked to the base to get a closer look. Then we took the scenic road along the Tensleep Creek and finally arrived in Yellowstone National Park. Yellowstone is, without doubt, America's most beautiful, varied, and interesting national park. Such sights as the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Mammoth Hot Springs, and the Fountain Paint Pots never cease to amaze and delight visitors. Then, of course, there are the various geyser basins which boast regular eruptions such as Old Faithful as well as colorful pools of superheated water. Besides all this there is wonderful mountain scenery and an incredible variety of exciting wildlife, such as bears, buffalo, elk, etc.

    Just south of Yellowstone is another fantastic attraction, Grand Teton National Park which showcases some of the most beautiful alpine scenery in the world. The drive along the Snake River is gorgeous (we stopped numerous times for photo ops) and leads to the quintessential Western town of Jackson.

   Our next stop was Salt Lake City where we checked out Temple Square, the Mormon center of operations. The guided tour of the facilities is very worthwhile.  

   Heading west, we stopped at Reno, Nevada, which bills itself as the "biggest little city in the world" but is really nothing much more than a somewhat sleazy gambling area. Nearby is Lake Tahoe, a more pleasant gambling location.

   We then headed into California and the "city by the bay", San Francisco. What an exciting place!  There are so many icons which are recognizable around the world, such as, the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz Island, Lombard Street, the "crookedest street in the world", and the San Francisco Trolley cars. Just outside the city, we enjoyed the solitude at Muir Woods. A great excursion from San Francisco is to drive south along the Pacific Coast Highway to admire the magnificent coastal scenery. Stops along the way include Big Sur and Monterey, which has its own coastal drive, Seventeen Mile Drive where we savored the iconic Lone Cypress.

    We left San Francisco behind to travel into the mountains to Yosemite National Park, another of America's great places. It is a testament to the power of glaciers and what was left behind is truly awe-inspiring. We drove to Washburn Point for a particularly spectacular vista.

   Our next stop was Sequoia National Park where we marveled at the General Sherman Tree. Then on to Arizona and one of the wonders of the world, the Grand Canyon. The beauty here is beyond description and photos do not do justice to the place. It is a must-see for everyone in the world.

    Traveling south we reached Tucson where we delighted in a visit to the Mission San Xavier del Bac, known as the "white dove of the desert".  Heading further east, we arrived at Carlsbad Caverns, which, besides the intricate and fascinating cave structures, is noted for its bats.  An interesting side trip in this part of New Mexico is White Sands National Monument.

    Next, we headed into Texas and spent several days in San Antonio.  Here, the major attractions are the Alamo and the pleasant Riverwalk with its many shops and restaurants.

   Further east is New Orleans, one of America's most important destinations.  New Orleans is all about the music (home of jazz) and the food (cajun and creole cooking were created here).  In addition, there is the fun-loving irreverence which pervades society here.

    Turning northward and heading toward home, we drove some of the Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive (both very scenic) and reached our last stop, Gettysburg National Historic Site. Here we immersed ourselves in Civil War history and tried to appreciate this most pivotal battle of the campaign.

   Finally, twenty-nine days after setting out, we got home from a trip of a lifetime!

 

Lessons learned:

      1. Drawback of lengthy trips -- get tired of eating out.  Remedy:  Have more picnics/lunches using food obtained in deli's, supermarkets, etc

      2. Tendency to gain weight because of eating out, driving, etc.  Remedy: Incorporate more walking into travel routine. Choose hotels (like Hampton's) which offer breakfast and try to skip lunch entirely or just have a snack like fruit, etc.