Our first full day in San Diego was spent at the world-famous Zoological Park. The animals are housed in a lovely setting with impressive vegetation and criss-crossing paved pathways to connect the various exhibits. Most-anticipated for us were the Koala Bears (although they were not very active because of the cold start to the day) and the Pandas. Other significant sections included the Ituri Forest, Monkey Trails, and the Polar Bear Plunge. We also enjoyed the Skyfari Aerial Tram. From the zoo, we walked to nearby Balboa Park, perhaps the showcase of the city, because of its glorious Spanish architecture, gardens and numerous museums. What an incredible collection of attractions in one place, but certainly too much to see and do for a single visit. We were just content with walking around the complex, marveling at the grandeur of the venues.

    Because this trip was predominantly focused around the Rose Parade, and because we wanted to spend some of our time with family in the area, we did not have much of an opportunity to explore San Diego. Besides, we were staying, again because of family concerns, in Laguna Beach, at the gorgeous Marriott, about 70 - 80 miles from the city.

   We did, however, return to San Diego two more times, once the next day to check out the "Del", the Hotel Del Coronado, which is an icon of Victorian splendor. We were mesmerized by the hotel's grand interior, attractively decorated for Christmas, waited for over an hour to be seated for our rather extravagant lunch, and wandered the grounds, taking pictures. Each of these first two nights, we returned to Laguna Beach for dinner. On the way back on day two, we detoured off the highway to take a short scenic drive into La Jolla, a beautiful and exclusive suburb of the San Diego.

   The next morning we left Laguna Beach and headed for Pasadena. Along the way, we stopped to visit the Mission San Juan Capistrano, made forever famous by the migrating swallows which return to the town each year on March 19th. The old mission is in ruins, because of an earthquake which occurred in 1812, but the grounds are lovely and the remaining buildings have been converted into a museum.

    Our second stop of the day was at the famous Farmer's Market in downtown Los Angeles. There was aisle after aisle of shops and eating venues, all in a covered area so large that a map was needed. We would have stayed longer except I got sick.  We arrived in Pasadena an hour or so later and spent the afternoon strolling the Old Town.

    Because I contracted a virus and was very much under the weather, much of our ambitious itinerary had to be scrapped. However, we managed to enjoy the time with family.

    On New Years Day, we left extremely early (about 4:30 AM) to head toward our seats along the Rose Parade route. Thankfully, our cousins, Sam & Vicki, are residents of the area and knew the ropes. We parked and walked to our seats with plenty of time to explore the nearby staging area -- we got so close to some of the floats that we could actually touch them, as they waited for the parade to begin.

    We had fantastic seats, right near the parade reviewing stand, where participants were fresh and excited about performing. The floats were absolutely incredible, and to think that they must be made entirely of natural, organic materials. The parade was a full two hours long and loaded with great entertainment. I was especially excited about the presence of George Lucas and several entries with a Star Wars theme, since I am a great fan of the series. The marching Stormtroopers added a special touch.

    Despite the unbelievably early morning and the tremendous crowds, I would highly recommend the experience to anyone. The rest of the day was extremely low-key.

   We left Pasadena the next morning for San Diego, where we would spend our last night before leaving for home. On the way, I just had to detour into Los Angeles to take a picture of the Hollywood Sign, a highlight of my itinerary. So we drove up into Griffith Park, to the Observatory parking lot, for a great view of the sign.

    When we reached San Diego, we went immediately to the Old Town where we had lunch and explored the area, browsing in the shops and admiring the flowers and the grounds.

    Once we reached our hotel, everyone rested except me. I needed to drive to the Cabrillo National Monument at Point Loma, to see the area and to check out the view of San Diego, in the distance, with a backdrop of mountains. It was nice, although I would have liked to have been closer to the city.

    The next morning we took off for home.

 

    Lessons learned:

           Here's an item I have been wanting to include in "lessons learned" for quite a while. It has to do with hotels. in the USA. We normally choose to stay in Hampton Inns, whenever possible, in our travels in the US for several reasons. First, they are consistent!  They are all clean and comfortable. Secondly, they are reasonable. They are typically cheaper than their competition. Third, because, many years ago, we signed up to be Hilton Honors members, we can earn points which can be used for free or reduced stays (we stayed for 3 nights in the Prague Hilton on our points!). Members can also earn miles, although we haven't cashed these in yet.  Fourth, Hamptons offer discounted rates to many organizations. For instance, we always ask for the Military or Government Rate (since I am retired army), AAA rate, and the AARP rate. These discounts have saved us hundreds and hundreds of dollars over the years. Check the program out if you are not already registered.

    The blog entries will be suspended as of the end of the week, since Lee & I are traveling to Cancun -- new fodder for the blog!!  Plus, I have been unable to incorporate pictures into recent blogs since I have reached the monthly limit for uploads. However, when I return, I will add those pictures and hopefully even others. Adios amigos!

    Our plan in Cancun is to beach it a lot. We will, however, make two excursions -- one to Chichen Itza, the grandest of the Mayan sites in Mexico, and another to Tulum, which is considered one of the most beautiful Mayan sites because it is located on the coast, the only one of this type. 

    Boston, Massachusetts, is an another exciting city, loaded with history and culture. Because of the presence of so many colleges and universities (Harvard, MIT, Boston University, etc), there are numerous opportunities to explore the Arts. Check out Symphony Hall, the home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, and its offshoot, the Boston Pops. The Boston Museum of Fine Arts is an excellent place to enjoy the visual arts.

     But, most come to Boston because of its historical significance. It was here that much of America’s early fight for freedom took place. Nowhere is this history more exemplified than on the Freedom Trail. The “Cradle of Liberty” is a self-guided walk through the early history of the United States’ fight for independence from England. The walk begins at Boston Common, but the Visitor Center, located inside the Old State House, a beautiful and significant building in its own right, is perhaps the best place to begin. Maps are available here or at the Boston Common Visitor Center, and the route is marked with a red line on the sidewalks to make it easier to follow. The total trail is approximately 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) and there are 16 sights along the way which may be seen and/or visited. Of special note are the Old North Church, where the signal for Paul Revere’s ride (“one if by land, two if by sea“) was flashed, Faneuil Hall, one of the colonists’ early meeting houses, the Old State House, the seat of Massachusetts’ government, the Bunker Hill Monument, which commemorates the famous battle, and the USS Constitution , “Old Ironsides”, which survived numerous engagements with the British Navy in the War of 1812.

     Near the Freedom Trail and worth the detour are the New England Aquarium, off Atlantic Ave, and the Boston Museum of Science, a wonderful, interactive experience, especially for children, located at Science Park, on the Charles River.

     Another popular Boston attraction, located just south of the city, is the John F Kennedy Library and Museum which pays tribute to one of America’s most popular presidents.

     A popular excursion from Boston for those desiring to become more immersed in Colonial history is to travel north to Salem, Massachusetts, where visitors are transported back in time to the 17th century, during the period of the Puritans who first settled this part of the United States. In particular, a visit to this city focuses attention on the Salem witch trials, made famous in Arthur Miller’s play, The Crucible. There are many venues available to the tourist which focus on different aspects of the period. Stop first at the Visitor Center for maps and information. Numerous “witch” museums entice the visitor into this mysterious culture. Most areas are accessible by walking.

 

     Gary’s Gem:

               1. While in Boston, have lunch at the Quincy Market, next to Faneuil Hall, a great experience since almost any type of food is available (unfortunately, places to sit while eating are difficult to come by, but try upstairs).

               2. While in Salem, stop at the House of the Seven Gables, Nathaniel Hawthorne’s birthplace and the basis for the title of one of his most famous books. It is open to the public for tours.

 

     Waterfire, a seasonal experience which takes place in historic Providence, Rhode Island, is an unusual and memorable celebration of the rebirth of an old, Colonial city. After descending into disrepair and seediness for many years, Providence, founded in 1636 by Roger Williams, has emerged as a “renaissance city” and Waterfire is its crowning glory. The experience involves numerous braziers suspended along the waterways of the city, and piped-in music which accompanies hundreds of people walking along the rivers or sitting on benches, especially at Waterplace Park. Restaurants along the brazier route and street vendors provide sustenance; street performers provide entertainment; and there are occasionally dancing venues in the vicinity as well as free theater on certain dates during the summer. Waterfire occurs on specific dates from spring through fall and is weather-dependent, but check the website (www.waterfire.org) for a schedule.

     Not far from Providence (nothing in Rhode Island is really very far away) is the popular tourist destination of Newport, Rhode Island, once the summer playground of the very rich, families such as the Astor’s and the Vanderbilt’s. As a result, they built beautiful and expensive summer cottages (really, elaborate mansions), especially along Bellevue Avenue. Many of these chateaux have now been purchased by the Preservation Society of Newport County and maintained and operated as tourist sights. There are also other 19th century mansions open to the public.

     The most popular and also some of the most opulent homes include The Breakers, Marble House, and Rosecliff.

     Touro Synagogue National Historic Site preserves the last remaining Jewish house of worship from the colonial era. It is also the oldest synagogue in the United States. The building dates back to 1763.

     Newport is an extremely pleasant city to walk, especially around the waterfront area with its many shops and restaurants. There always seems to be some sort of event going on, so that the charming and lively port city has become a year round destination.

    

     Gary’s Gem:

              1. For a different perspective on the mansions of Bellevue Avenue, stroll along Cliff Walk for great views of the rocky Rhode Island coastline and peeks at the backyards of some of these mansions.

              2. Take Seven-mile drive from Bellevue Ave to Thames St for an incredibly scenic look at the rocky and picturesque southern Rhode Island coast and a look at even more estates.

 

      Nantucket is a charming whaling island town located approximately 50 kilometers (30 miles) off the southeastern Massachusetts coast. It is accessible by ferry and by plane. The narrow, cobblestone streets and old Quaker-style homes contribute to the quaint, old-time flavor. The town is great for walking. To experience other areas of the island, bicycles and mopeds are the preferred transportation.

      Martha’s Vineyard, another island, like Nantucket, off the southeastern Massachusetts coast, is larger and also closer to the coast and, thus, more accessible than its neighbor. There are six towns on the island, connected via roads and an island bus system available from mid-May to mid-October. There are ferries to the island which can accommodate cars, however, the majority of tourists get around by foot, bus, or bicycle. Numerous beaches on the island offer opportunities for water sports. The movie, “Jaws” made the island’s beaches famous, but there is little or no danger of a repeat attack!

     The White Mountains of northern New Hampshire offer a four-season vacation area within reach of the major urban areas of the northeastern United States. There is quality skiing in the winter, mountain scenery and hiking opportunities during the rest of the year, and the fall foliage is spectacular. There are also numerous lakes and rivers to frolic in.

    Specific area activities include the following noteworthy attractions: the Cannon Mountain Aerial Tramway, 80-passenger cars which whisk visitors to the peak of Cannon Mountain for glorious views of the area; and the Mount Washington Cog Railway or Auto Road, for a trip up to the tallest peak in New England, which, in 1934, set the world record for wind velocity on Earth (231 miles per hour or almost 400 km/hr).

    Another attraction, The Flume, is a picturesque walk through a narrow gorge cut by a mountain stream. Visitors negotiate a wooden walkway past waterfalls and pools for a distance of approximately 3 km (2 miles).

    Still other activities include a drive along the Kancamagus Highway which traverses the White Mountains area from Lincoln on the west to Conway on the east. The scenic drive of approximately 56 kilometers (35 miles) is closed in the winter, but otherwise offers spectacular vistas of the mountains of the Presidential Range, Franconia Notch, which is a picturesque pass through the mountains and which allows access to a number of sights listed in the description above, and, of course, the town of North Conway, New Hampshire, on Route 16, a quaint Nordic-like ski village which has grown up into a major tourist destination while still preserving much of its charm. It can be considered the eastern gateway to the White Mountains, but has a number of attractions of its own, including outlet shopping and a cute train ride from a station on Main Street into the surrounding valley.

    

     Gary’s Gem:

              1. A short walk from a parking area just south of Pinkham Notch on Route 16 brings the visitor to Glen Ellis Falls, a beautiful, thundering cascade.

             2. While in North Conway, check out Cathedral Ledge, an overlook just west of town which is a Mecca for mountain climbers and also offers a road to the top of the ledge for dramatic views of the village of North Conway and the mountains beyond. It is, of course, especially scenic in the autumn.

 

     Chatham, Cape Cod, Massachusetts represents a classic Cape Cod village as well as a typical New England fishing town. It is quaint and pretty, and offers many amenities. It also makes a great base of operations for an exploration of the outer cape.

     Cape Cod National Seashore extends for 65 kilometers (40 miles) along the outer Cape Cod coastline and preserves numerous beaches, lighthouses, and dunes. There are Visitor Centers in both Provincetown and Eastham which provide information about the area, films and exhibits.

     Hyannis is the largest community on Cape Cod and offers a more citified atmosphere while still preserving the architecture and ambience that is associated with this area. Along with Falmouth, Hyannis offers ferries to the islands of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard.

     The Heritage Museum & Gardens, in Sandwich, has an excellent display of Americana. In particular, check out the great collection of vintage automobiles.

 

     Gary’s Gem:

             For maximum enjoyment of the national seashore area, walk some of the trails. In particular, the Salt Pond Nature Trail, in Eastham, is extremely informative and pleasant. However, be sure to bring mosquito repellent!

 

     Stowe Village, Vermont, is a quintessential New England town, with a village green around a white-steepled church, a covered bridge, a general store, etc. It is also the gateway to several major ski areas, and a shopper’s paradise. The village is pleasantly walkable and fairly crowded at certain times of the year, especially during the fall foliage season. It has the look of New England as it was years ago, but with the conveniences of today.

    About 30 miles (48 kilometers) to the west is the city of Burlington, Vermont, the home of the University of Vermont and the state’s largest city. An excursion into the city should focus on the pedestrian area of Church Street with its numerous shops and restaurants. The protruding boulders incorporated into the street give it a special charm. The other part of the city which is popular with tourists is the Lake Champlain waterfront area. There are many aquatic activities available here, for instance, a ferry to New York which runs on a regular schedule.

     Also not too far from Stowe, traveling south on Route 100, is the Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory which offers tours and also contains an ice cream shop and gift shop. It is Vermont’s most popular tourist attraction. Route 100, by the way, makes an excellent scenic drive in the Autumn, when the leaves change -- it runs from north to south across the entire state.

     The Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame, in Springfield, Massachusetts, is a tribute to another of America’s sports, invented here by Dr. James Naismith in 1891. The complex was recently renovated and has become much more interactive, incorporating video and computer technology to showcase the best players of the game. A huge array of basketball memorabilia is also displayed.

     From Springfield, travel west to the Berkshire region of Western Massachusetts, a popular destination, especially for New Yorkers and New Englanders, because of its proximity and also variety of activities. US Route 7 is the major thoroughfare which links the towns of the region. Particularly significant attractions include the Norman Rockwell Museum in Stockbridge, the Hancock Shaker Village, in Pittsfield, and the charming community of Williamstown, which is home to Williams College.

     Tanglewood, in Lenox, Massachusetts, is the summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra. Concerts are performed from late June to early September and the facility offers an unusual outdoor venue for classical performances. Attendees can purchase seats in the Music Shed, or lawn tickets which allow access to the grounds. Many people prefer the lawn and prepare elaborate picnics for before and after the concerts. Reservations must be made early, since it is an extremely popular attraction.

     Mystic Seaport, in Mystic, Connecticut, offers the visitor a look at the New England whaling industry in the middle 19th century. Several vintage boats of the time period can be boarded and explored while a museum displays many artifacts and provides much information about sailing and whaling.

     Gillette Castle State Park, in East Haddam Connecticut, showcases the estate of actor, William Gillette, who was famous for his portrayal of Sherlock Holmes. The castle contains interesting furnishings and unusual architecture. The grounds are also worth exploring. It is located northwest of Mystic.

     Also in the area is the lovely village of Essex, which has a Steam Train that runs most of year, and which, in the summer, connects to a boat ride up the Connecticut River -- a great experience for children. Essex is particularly enchanting in December when the town displays its extensive Christmas decorations.

    

     Gary’s Gem:

             While at Mystic Seaport, visit nearby Mystic Village for quaint shops and restaurants, but don’t bother with the Mystic Aquarium -- go to the New England Aquarium in Boston instead!

 

     The Southern Maine Coast contains a number of picturesque and quaint towns and villages.

     Beginning at the New Hampshire border, Kittery is more famous for its outlet shopping than its ambience, but it is extremely popular as a day trip from anywhere in Eastern New England because of the variety and quantity of shops.

    York is a community which dates to 1624 and has preserved many of the historic buildings from its past.

    Ogunquit is an adorable town for walking. Be sure to meander down to Perkins Cove and then stroll the scenic Marginal Way, a footpath along the rugged coastline. There are numerous shops and restaurants in the town, as well.

    Wells is particularly noted for its fine seven mile long beach, but it also offers many shops and restaurants.

    Kennebunkport is a charming coastal community which boasts numerous shops and restaurants in a very easy to walk and pleasant environment. It has a reputation as an artist’s haven, so a variety of arts and crafts are available here.

    Another noteworthy village is Old Orchard Beach, one of Maine’s oldest resort communities, and still a favorite, especially with Canadians on holiday. Its seven mile beach is still popular, but the area is more honky-tonk than quaint.

    At the northern end of this section of the Maine coast lies the city of Portland, which became an important center for trade and commerce for the region. Its waterfront district has been attractively restored with cobblestone streets and gas street lamps and is a pleasure to walk, while browsing the numerous shops and checking out the menus of the many restaurants.

    Portland is also the launching point for excursions into Casco Bay and the Calendar Islands, all 365 of them. It is also a departure and arrival point for ferries to Nova Scotia, Canada.

     Further north, Maine, is the Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park area, which is described in another blog (check the archives).

   

    Lessons Learned:

          New England is all about history, since some of the first European colonies in the new world began here, and then, the American Revolution also started here with the Boston Tea Party and the meetings among some of the early rebels. Places like Pliomoth Plantation and Sturbridge Village feed into this historical tradition.

         However, New England also comes alive as a vacationland in the Autumn, when the leaves change and work their incredible pallette on the woods and uplands. It is a magical time of the year and "leaf-peepers" flock to rural and wilderness areas to try to capture that perfect scene or that beautiful picture. Later, in the blog, I will share some of my most memorable foliage trips, since we have been testing various routes for many years.  

 

    

    

 

     

 

     New York City and its skyline are certainly one of the most recognized locations in the world. No longer, unfortunately, capped by the World Trade Towers, the city has, nevertheless, many tall and distinguished buildings. The Empire State Building and the Chrysler Building are two of the most famous. The skyline is made more dramatic because Manhattan Island, the major tourist section of the city juts out from the mainland into New York harbor, making the buildings more noticeable. Many of the bridges which connect Manhattan to the other boroughs are also well known, e.g. the Brooklyn Bridge and the George Washington Bridge which connects the Bronx with New Jersey and points south.

     New York City itself is an exciting venue for the traveler, with an incredible variety of things to do and see. For instance, New York possesses world-class museums, such as, the Metropolitan Museum, the Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) and the Guggenheim.

     The Metropolitan Museum, one of the world’s great houses of art, is located at 1000 Fifth Ave, on the east side of Central Park at 82nd St. Like most major museums, days could be spent in an effort to see everything. However, it make more sense to make several shorter visits, perhaps concentrating on a particular period or type of art, to be able to appreciate the museum’s vast collection.

     Must sees include at least the following:

                       European Paintings

     The Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) has recently (2005) reopened after a major renovation. It, like the Metropolitan, is considered one the world’s best. It is located at 11 W. 53rd St and requires an unhurried visit to savor its quality. Must sees include Van Gogh’s “The Starry Night” and Painting & Sculpture, on the 4th & 5th floors.

     American Museum of Natural History, on the Upper West Side of New York City, is one of America’s best natural history museums. In the same complex is the Rose Center for Earth and Space as well as the Hayden Planetarium. Exhibit halls provide outstanding examples of biological, geological, and astronomical phenomena.

     Broadway’s theater district contains the best that live theater has to offer. New York City’s neighborhoods, such as Chinatown, Little Italy, SoHo, and Greenwich Village have their own special charm and ambiance, and New York has many outstanding restaurants throughout the city.

     Times Square, at the junction of Broadway and Seventh Avenue, represents the heart of New York City. Its glitz and glamour make it a Mecca for visitors. Besides being surrounded by many of the city’s most famous attractions, it also abuts the Theater District. On December 31st, it becomes the location of the most famous New Year celebration in the world.

     The Statue of Liberty, one of the most famous landmarks associated with the United States, is located on Liberty Island, in New York Harbor, and is accessible only by ferry from either Battery Park in Lower Manhattan or from Liberty State Park in Jersey City, New Jersey. The statue was a gift from France and, for many arriving immigrants, symbolized the ideals of freedom and opportunity and an escape from the hardships or poor prospects of their native land.

     Ellis Island, in New York Harbor, was the entry point for the majority of immigrants to the United States during the late 19th and early 20th century. The restored complex processed millions of Irish, Polish, Italians and others who came to America to escape oppression, flee from poverty, or to make a fresh start. Take a narrated National Park Service tour to make the most of your visit and to appreciate what immigrants must have felt as they were herded through the complex.

     The United Nations Headquarters, on First Ave in Midtown Manhattan, offers visitors an opportunity to see the world stage of international diplomacy. There are gifts and artwork, some quite spectacular, from all over the world throughout the building. It is a major tourist site because of its concept, an international forum to peacefully resolve world issues in order to avoid armed conflict.

     The Empire State Building, in midtown Manhattan, is one the world’s tallest office buildings and, for many years, was the tallest. Take the elevator to the observatories on the 86th and 102nd floors for fantastic views of New York City and the surrounding area.

     Rockefeller Center, located in midtown Manhattan, is the home of NBC (the National Broadcasting Company) and is noted for its ice-skating rink and the exhibitions which frequently take place nearby. More recently, it has become extremely popular in the mornings during the Today Show, since the hosts spend part of their morning broadcast outside. Free concerts also occur during some of the broadcasts. In addition, tours of NBC Studios are offered throughout the day. It is also a gathering place, great for people-watching.

     St Patrick’s Cathedral, located in midtown Manhattan almost directly opposite Rockefeller Center, is one of the largest churches in the United States. It was built in the Gothic style in the mid-1800’s and has attracted the religious and the curious for many years. It is the home of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of New York, and services are offered on a regular basis.

     Other must sees include Central Park, an oasis in this concrete jungle, which offers walks, swimming, a zoo and other outdoor activities, depending on the season.

    Ground Zero, the location of the World Trade Towers, now a memorial to the events of September 11, 2001 and, of course, Times Square, perhaps the gaudiest and most famous square in the world.

    The majority of tourist attractions are found on the island of Manhattan, however, several locations in other boroughs deserve a mention. The Bronx has one of the most excellent zoos in the world. The Bronx Zoo has long been known for its innovation in the display of animals and also in the conservation and protection of endangered species. It has an incredible variety of animals and habitats. The nearby New York Botanical Garden is also one of the world leaders.

     Another Bronx attraction, certainly well-known to all fans of baseball, is one the premier ballparks in the United States, Yankee Stadium. Besides being one of the oldest, it is probably the most storied, since it was home field to many of the sports’ greatest players. A tribute to some of these icons is located beyond centerfield, in a garden of monuments.

 

     Gary’s Gems

             1. The view of the New York City skyline from the Statue of Liberty National Monument departure area in Jersey City is spectacular.

             2. The Sony Wonder Technology Lab, between 55th and 56th Streets, on Madison Ave, is extremely interesting, especially for kids, and has free admission, something not often seen in New York.

             3. Stroll around Liberty Island to admire the glorious views of New York City and its busy harbor.

 

     Lessons learned:

          I would always recommend driving to New York, especially for a day trip, although sometimes it can become a nightmare. Once in the city, however, it is beter to take subways and walk, rather than brave the streets and traffic. Parking lots abound, and even though expensive, are not out of sight for a single day. If staying for several days, it may be more economical to leave the car behind and take train or bus into the city, although these options have become increasingly expensive recently.

          Subways are safe ways to travel, except very late at night, and they are extremely convenient because there are so many lines. You should always be able to get within a few blocks of your destination.

    Washington, DC is a requisite destination for all patriotic Americans. It also has much appeal for the world traveler because of its wonderful museums and beautiful neo-classic architecture, as well as the striking memorials that honor some of the icons of American and world history. Perhaps more important, almost all the attractions of the city are free, a rare occurrence in these times.

     The city is laid out as a grid with four zones (NE, NW, SE, SW). The numeric streets run north-south and begin at First Street, at the US Capitol Building. The east-west running alphabetical-named streets begin in either direction from the Mall. The avenues are named for the states of the union and run diagonally, e.g. the White House is on Pennsylvania Avenue.

     The primary tourist area is almost entirely within a few blocks of the Mall (a broad, park-like, grassy area between Constitution Ave and Independence Ave, running from the Capitol Building to the Lincoln Memorial). Also within the Mall are the many buildings of the Smithsonian, the Washington Monument (which dominates the skyline), and most of the war memorials. The Mall also allows easy access to the White House, the Jefferson Memorial, the tidal basin, and west to the Arlington Memorial Cemetery.

     The Smithsonian Museum, the world’s largest museum, occupies numerous buildings on or near the National Mall in Washington, DC. There is also an annex to the Air and Space Museum at Dulles Airport, about 30 miles west of the city and two galleries in New York City. The Smithsonian also includes the National Zoo, located on the outskirts of the city.

     Major sections (housed in separate buildings, primarily on the Mall) include the Arthur M Sackler Gallery, the Freer Gallery of Art, the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, the National Air and Space Museum, the National Gallery of Art, the National Museum of African Art, the National Museum of American History, the National Museum of the American Indian, the National Museum of Natural History, the National Portrait Gallery, the National Postal Museum, the National Zoological Park, the Renwick Gallery, and the Steven F Udvar-Hazy Center. Must sees include the following:

                    The National Air and Space Museum displays the history of flight through a variety of exhibits and experiences.

                    The National Museum of Natural History houses an immense collection of animals from around the world.

                    The National Museum of American History has a huge collection of artifacts and memorabilia representing American culture, past and present

     The Washington Monument is a tall (over 550 feet/180 meters), obelisk which occupies the center of the Mall. Visitors can ride an elevator to an observation area which provides spectacular views of the city and the other major memorials. Be prepared to wait in line.

     The Lincoln Memorial, at the western end of the Mall, is a moving tribute to one of America’s most beloved presidents. The huge statue of a seated Lincoln commands respect and admiration. On the walls flanking the statue are etched the words of two of Lincoln’s greatest speeches.

     The Jefferson Memorial is located on the tidal basin, a large lake connected to the Potomac River. The building which houses the president’s statue looks like it would be at home in ancient Greece or Rome, and has stairs which lead to the water.

     The most popular of the war memorials is the famous Vietnam Veterans Memorial “wall” which occupies a spot between the Lincoln and Washington memorials, near the reflecting pool. It is inscribed with the names of all soldiers killed or missing in the conflict, in chronological order.

     Other attractions in the city, besides those already mentioned include the United States Holocaust Memorial, an extremely moving tribute to those who lost their lives during the exterminations which were perpetrated by Nazi Germany in the years before and throughout World War II. A multitude of media are used in the dramatic and sometimes disturbing presentations. Reservations must be made in advance.

     The International Spy Museum, near Chinatown, takes the visitor on an interesting and informative tour of the gadgets and methods used in international intrigue and eavesdropping. There are extensive exhibits which focus on some of the most famous or infamous spies in history.

     Explorer’s Hall is an exhibit, offered by the National Geographic Society, which displays, often interactively, some of the famous expeditions conducted by the society. It is a great place to bring kids and fascinating for adults as well.

     There are too many other sights to mention them all, but Washington, DC must be savored, with several visits over time. Like any great museum, the city cannot be seen all at once.

     Other sights in the vicinity of Washington, include Mount Vernon, George Washington’s home, the quaint old town of Alexandria, Virginia, and the Steven F Udvar-Hazy Center, an annex to the National Air and Space Museum of the Smithsonian, at the Dulles Airport in Chantilly, Virginia.

     Mount Vernon, George Washington’s estate on the Potomac, near Washington, D.C., is a fine example of wealthy colonial life. Washington considered himself a farmer at heart, and only reluctantly left his plantation to serve his country as its first president. He retreated to Mount Vernon whenever possible and retired from public life there after his second term. The mansion and grounds have been lovingly restored and contain period furnishings, as well as Washingtonian memorabilia. Guided tours of the house and buildings are offered frequently.

     Also in nearby Virginia, just across the Francis Scott Key Bridge, behind the Lincoln Memorial, is one of the most moving spectacles in the entire area. Arlington National Cemetery is the largest and most prestigious military cemetery in the country. It is the final resting place of thousands of the nation’s best and brightest. Just walking through the grounds is emotional enough, especially if family members or friends are interred here. However, the Changing of the Guard Ceremony at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is particularly symbolic and spiritual. The ritual takes place every half hour during the summer and every hour during the remainder of the year.

     Also worthwhile on a visit to the cemetery are stops at the John F Kennedy Gravesite where a perpetual flame pays tribute to one of America’s most beloved presidents, and Arlington House, the Southern mansion which dominates the highest part of the cemetery, which was the former residence of General Robert E Lee, one of the country’s most celebrated generals.

   

     Gary Gems:

            1. Cross Constitution Ave in the vicinity of the Vietnam War Memorial to find the Einstein Memorial at the National Academy of Sciences Building. Kids and adults can climb all over the statue which depicts Einstein seated on a low wall.

            2. Pass the Franklin Roosevelt Memorial into the tidal basin to find an unusual sculpture called “The Awakening”. Once again, kids will love it since they can run around and climb all over the sculpture.

            3. The Library of Congress, Jefferson Building has an original “Gutenberg Bible” on display.

            4. Check out Game Fish in the Renwick Gallery, a small crafts museum on Pennsylvania Ave, near the White House, for a nostalgic look at some true “Americana”. Adults, as well as kids, will be fascinated!

            5. While at Mount Vernon, stroll the grounds after the tour to appreciate the view and the many innovations which Washington incorporated into his farm.

 

      Lessons learned:

            The description above really only scratches the surface of Washington attractions. With pre-arrangement through a Congressman, visitors may participate in a guided tour the US Capitol building or the White House. The National Zoo and the paddle boats on the tidal basin are great places to take kids. Ford's Theater immortalizes one of America's darkest moments, the assassination of President Abraham Lincoln. The Washington National Cathedral and the Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception are two of the important religious sites. Plus there are many other sights worth visiting, if time permits.

    Our return to Italy was another trip taken with our frequent travel companions, Ed & Marie. They had never been to Italy so I designed a trip which incorporated the best of what we had seen previously with a few new places, so the trip would have some special interest for Lee & I as well. We began in Rome, one of the greatest cities on earth, and a city rich in attractions, yet characteristic of the unique culture that makes Italy such as popular travel destination.

    Once we arrived at our hotel, the lovely Santa Chiara, we headed for the Pantheon, just a block away. We had a light lunch in the Piazza della Rotunda and then toured the stunning interior of this well-preserved building. Next we walked to the Trevi Fountain, which has been significantly improved since we last saw it -- the fountain itself is the same, but the viewing area has been much improved with stairs going down to the fountain and an elevated observation area that allows better pictures). We all took turns throwing coins into the fountain, then moved on to the Spanish Steps.  We were somewhat disappointed here, since there were no flowers lining the steps (probably because this was now October, rather than summertime) and the Triniti dei Monti Church, at the top of the stairs, was under construction. Exhausted now, from our flight and our lengthy excursion, we walked back to the hotel, along the Via Condotti and Via del Corso, the two major shopping streets in the city (to whet the girls' appetite).

    That evening we had a very good dinner at the Ristorante Pummarola, near the Pantheon. Eddie began his love affair with Spaghetti Carbonara. We finished the day with a gelato.

    In the morning we headed for Ancient Rome. We admired the Victor Emmanuel Monument (the "wedding cake") and then climbed the stairs to Michelangelo's lovely square, the Campidoglio. From here, we walked down into the Roman Forum to "walk with Caesar". We came out at the other end, at the Arch of Constantine, and beheld the Colosseum, the world's first large arena, and a monument to Roman engineering. Thankfully, we had made reservations, which saved us much time, since the line to get tickets was extremely long and slow. We also picked up one Audioguide to share (basically unnnecessary unless no research is done prior to the trip).  We wandered through the aisles and were impressed that a partial floor had been added since we last visited.

    Once again, San Pietro in Vincoli Church frustrated us -- we found it, not far from the Colosseum area, but again it was closed (from 12:30 - 3), so we returned to the hotel for a siesta. Actually, Lee and I decided to use the time to take a walk to Trastevere, the very old "ghetto" section of Rome across the Tiber.  It is still a bit run-down and the graffiti and garbage on the streets is a bit disconcerting, but some of its narrow streets are charming. Santa Maria de Trastevere is a pretty church on a pretty square with a pretty fountain at its center.

    We had a lovely dinner at the Osteria Dell'Ingegno, then strolled through the Piazza Navona, our favorite square in Rome, did some people-watching and had some gelato. 

    Our day at The Vatican was next on the agenda. On our way we strolled through the Campo de Fiori which used to be a flower market, but now is just an open air market with food and other items. The girls enjoyed this immensely, since this is where residents shop. From here we crossed the Tiber River on the Ponte Sant Angelo which leads dramatically from the Castel Sant 'Angelo (Hadrian's Tomb) toward the Piazza San Pietro and the looming presence of the Basilica San Pietro. Once again, we saved a considerable amount of time and aggravation by purchasing tickets on line, prior to our arrival. We walked past the line, which was already many blocks long and right to the Vatican Museum entrance, where we waited a short time for our tour to begin.

    Simona was fantastic -- she took us on a 2-hour educational tour of the museum, made much richer because of her detailed and informative narration. The Rafael Rooms were certainly one of the highlights. I especially enjoyed what is known as the "signature" room, because Rafael put himself into the fresco devoted to Philosophers and historical figures, such as, Aristotle, Plato, Euclid, Ptolemy (next to the painter) and Michelangelo. On another wall were the writers and poets, like Homer, Virgil, Sappho, etc.

    The Sistene Chapel was, of course, the most beautiful of the rooms. Simona told us that Michelangelo took four years to complete the ceiling (only small sections could be done at a time, because of the very nature of a fresco --paint must be applied while the plaster is wet).  She also told us that his first ceiling paintings (the Noah frescoes) were done in a smaller scale, because he only realized that they couldn't be seen too well when he came down from the scaffolding, so he increased the scale size for subsequent panels. She also told us many details about the Last Judgment, the wall painting in the chapel which was painted when Michelangelo was much older.

   Because we went next to the Basilica, we also did not have to wait in that line since we were coming from the museum. We marveled at the Pieta, on the right as you enter, and the glorious "high altar" with its carved wooden columns. No longer can visitors descend into the crypt beneath this altar.

   From the Vatican, we headed for the Piazza Navona again (to see and appreciate it in daylight). We spent about 2 hours here, eating lunch, drinking wine and soaking up the ambience. From here the girls went shopping by cab, and Ed & I returned to the hotel area. We stopped at Santa Maria sopra Minerva Church to see Michelangelo's Risen Christ, and then nursed a beer at the Piazza della Rotunda and people-watched. That evening we had the "best" gelato in Rome at Giolitti's.

    Leaving Rome the next morning, we stopped first at Montecassino, the famous mountaintop Abbey which was heavily bombed during World War II, because the Germans were maintaining a headquarters and observation point here. What an incredible sight -- a light-colored brick fortress perched at the top of a mountain, high above the surrounding countryside. We walked the grounds and saw the memorial cemetery. Thirty-thousand men lost their lives here!

    Our next stop was the city of Caserta, where Italy's monarchs maintained their Royal Palace, a huge, Versailles-like edifice, spectacularly opulent, with gilded furniture, ornate chandeliers, ceiling frescoes and bas-relief walls. The gardens were a disappointment, because we expected to see thousands of flowers but it was just a landscape garden.

    Our final stop for the day was Sorrento, at one end of the Amalfi Coast. However, we missed the exit to Sorrento from the Autostrada, and ended up near Salerno, at the southern end of the coast. Instead of retracing our steps, we decided to drive along the Amalfi Coast to Sorrento. I absolutely loved it!  The drive extremely dangerous -- a narrow road, just barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass, winding precipitously along a steep cliff, high above the Tyrrhenian Sea. The scenery was breath-takingly beautiful alhtough there were times when it was impossible to take your eyes off the road ahead, especially when a large tour bus approached from the opposite direction. The girls were somewhat frightened, but I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. The only downside, in my estimation, was that it was slow going, and it seemed to take us forever to reach Sorrento.

    Our hotel, the Settimo Cielo, was, even by European standards, spartan, but our patio, looking out over the Bay of Naples was worth the minor inconveniences. Plus, the hotel more than made up for in friendliness what it lacked in amenities. In addition to all this, the price was right (and we got a discount because we carried a Rick Steves Guide).  

    Our first day in the area was our worst weather day of the trip. We took the train to Pompeii, on suggestion from the hotel staff, since we could avoid getting lost (almost a daily occurrence for tourist in Europe) and would not have the hassle of parking the car.

    Pompeii is an amazing place!! The town is a time-capsule of life in the Roman Empire during the period around the birth of Christ. When Mt Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD the people of Pompeii had no warning so were caught doing their normal daily activities when they were killed and buried under the ash. Excavations of the site bagan in 1748 and still continue today. Most of the fragile artifacts recovered here are now housed in the Archaeological Museum in Naples, but much has also been left at the site, for the visitor to discover and imagine.

   Our visit was ultimately abbreviated because of the weather, but we saw enough to appreciate this incredible window on the past. Using an audioguide, we explored the Forum, with its Temple of Jupiter and its Basilica (not a church but the primary place in which business was conducted). We saw frescoes on the walls of some dwellings, tiles on their tables, graffiti, etc.

   Perhaps the most moving part of our visit was the Place of the Fugitives (Orto dei Fugiaschi), a glass-enclosed area which displays casts of actual people of the city, frozen in grotesque postures, caught at the moment they perished. It was very eerie!

    We returned to Sorrento, had a quick lunch and headed south to explore the Amalfi Coast. Today we could truly appreciate its beauty and splendor since we were not hustling to get to our hotel. We headed first for the southern end of the drive, and then worked our way back toward Sorrento leisurely. Nestled along the route are a series of small, charming towns which cling to the cliffs of the Latari Mountains and tumble down to the water below.

    Amalfi is the largest community along the drive and offers a wealth of activities for visitors. Its Duomo, with its Paradise Cloister, is worth visiting. Above Amalfi is the even more charming village of Ravello, which offers perhaps the best views along the entire coast because it is so high up. We enjoyed sitting with a coffee on the adorable main square, watching the local children play soccer. It was an idyllic setting. We also walked down several of the narrow, pedestrian-only, alleyways to access even better views at the Villa Cimbrone and the Villa Rufolo.

   We drove through other villages, like Atrani, and Maiori, until we reached Positano, our favorite stop on the drive. We stayed here through the dinner hour and beyond, strolling the streets and browsing in the shops. We admired the Santa Maria Asunta Church with its gold and green ceramic dome, checked out the tiny beach, lingered on the small piazzas, and then, reluctantly, headed back to our hotel.

   The next day was even more exciting. We walked down to the Port of Sorrento and took the fast ferry to the Isle of Capri, one of the most anticipated events in our entire itinerary. Our plan was to immediately board another boat to the famous Blue Grotto, however, wouldn't you know it, there was a strike going on and the Blue Grotto was closed!  We were extremely disappointed, but unscheduled labor actions are commonplace in Europe, so this was not unusual.

    We took a bus up to Capri Town and spent the rest of the day in this perfect little village that oozed charm. We strolled the myraid of labyrinthine alleys which make up the town, past hundreds of sparkling, white-washed buildings, crammed with shops and restaurants. Most of the activity in the town is focused around the Piazzeta (Piazza Umberto II). Here, there is a cute clock tower, a church, and the ubiquitous shops. We separated because the girls were very much intent on shopping while the guys wanted nothing to do with that.

    I found my way to the Certosa di San Giacomo, an old monastery which dates to 1371, where I also discovered the former estate of Adolf Krupp, a wealthy entrepreneur who donated his entire property to the town when he died. The gardens are lovely and there are several observation areas with unbelievable views of the rugged island coast, and especially of several offshore sea stacks, called I Faraglioni. We finally left the island at about 4 PM to return to Sorrento and dinner at La Favorita -- very good food eaten in what resembles a greenhouse.

   The next day was our longest driving day of the entire trip -- a distance of over 500 miles, from Sorrento to San Marino, on the east coast below Ravenna.  We also planned several stops along the way. Our first stop was very brief, in the city of Spoleto, famous today as the venue for an international music festival in the summertime.  Since this was October, we were more interested in seeing the Rocca Albornoz, a Papal fortress which dates to about 1360 AD and the Ponte della Torri, a 14th century aqueduct, 262 feet high.

    From Spoleto, we headed higher into the Umbrian hills to the religious center of Assisi. This town is, of course, notable as the location of the extraordinary Basilica di San Francisco, a church built to commemorate the life of St Francis of Assisi, the founder of the Franciscan Order of monks. The church is truly spectacular with beautiful frescoes which chronicle the saint's life adorning the walls of both the upstairs and downstairs church.  They were painted by the best artists of the day, and the church further displays intricate woodwork in its choirs.

    The town of Assisi is also charminig, with narrow, cobblestone streets which extend up and down the hills. They are all built of the same light-colored stone and the overall effect is quite enchanting.

     We continued onward to San Marino, the oldest (4th century) and the smallest Republic in the world. Our hotel, the Grand, the nicest in our entire trip, was not only elegant, possessing many amenities, but also provided a stupendous view of the countryside (the town of San Marino is on top of Mount Titiano). The little town is almost "Disneyesque", a perfect, walled, Medieval city with scrubbed sidewalks and streets and cute, narrow, cobblestone alleyways and stairways leading up, up, up. Some sprinkles prevented us from seeing all of the town that evening, but Ed & I returned in the morning to do the rest.  We also had one of our best meals of the trip at the Cantina di Bacco, an adorable little place with walls of the same light brick which adorns the town.

     Early the next morning, Eddie and I climbed and climbed to the top of the village to see the Tre Castelli, the three castles which rise from the Medieval walls. There was considerable fog that morning, but we were able to take some pictures during brief breaks in the overcast. We all left San Marino, thinking that this was a true "gem".

    We headed further north to Venice, our next and much-anticipated destination.  Since there are no cars allowed in Venice-proper, we waited in a long line, then left our car in a carpark on the outskirts of the city. Lugging our luggage across the busy square to the Vaporetto stop was both difficult and comical -- we felt like idiots! After arriving at our stop, we then had to find our hotel amidst the narrow alleyways of a city where everyone gets lost. We eventually had to cross three bridges (really sets of stairways over the canals) to get to our hotel. We were exhausted!

    After checking in and freshening up a bit, we had a light lunch and headed for Piazza San Marco, the "drawing room of Europe" and one of the most spectacular squares in the world. We got back to the hotel that evening to find several urgent messages -- my Aunt had died, and my daughters wanted to make sure I knew. Her death certainly saddened us, but there was nothing we could do, especially since it was not just Lee & I on this trip.

    We began our first full day in Venice with a tour of the Doge's Palace, the residence of the reigning Venetian governor for hundreds of years, when Venice was a major player on the world trade scene. It was another tribute to opulence, with gold everywhere, frescoed ceilings and great artwork. The Major Council Chamber was perhaps most impressive, displaying Tintoretto's Paradiso", the largest oil painting in the world. We also crossed the famous Bridge of Sighs into the dank and dark prison, where many a criminal spent the rest of his life.

    Next on our list was the Basilica San Marco, with its distinctive Byzantine architecture and beautiful mosaics. We marveled at the Pala d'Oro with its inlaid precious gems.

    We took the Vaporetto to the Rialto Bridge, the most famous of the three bridges which cross the Grand Canal, where the girls did some browsing in the shops which line the bridge. In the meantime, we did our laundry, a necessary chore when away from home for so long. Later, we stopped at the Santa Maria della Salute Church, located right at the lagoon end of the Grand Canal, but it was closed. We strolled for a while in quiet, slow-paced Dorsoduro, a dramatic contrast with the San Marco area, crossed the Accademia Bridge, and headed for Harry's Bar, which we were prohibited from entering because Eddie was wearing shorts.

    For dinner, we heeded the hotel clerk's recommendation and ate at the Trattoria Al Scalinetti, very close to our hotel. It was excellent! After dinner and some gelato, we went back to St Mark's Square, and found, to our amazement, a quasi-battle-of-the-bands going on. We joined the crowd which was moving from one outdoor band to another, as they played their characteristic selections. First, one band would play their two song, then another would play theirs, and so on. It was a wonderful end to a lovely day.

    Our last day in Venice was even more low-key. since we had taken care of the major tourist sights already. We started at the Campanile, the Basilica's Bell Tower, where Ed & Marie took the elevator to the top for panoramic views of the city (Lee and I had done this previously, so we just browsed the outdoor stands while they went). Then we boarded a Vaporetto for the Lido, Venice's beach area. We walked a bit in this upscale neighborhood, had a coffee, and then took a ferry to Burano, one of the islands in the lagoon, which is characterized by brightly-colored houses with cascading flowers from their window boxes, and lace-making.  The main street is adorable, lined with numerous shops and restaurants. It leads to Piazza Galuppi, the main square, which is also colorful and cute. The girls enjoyed browsing in the shops, in this much less hectic environment.

    We returned to the city, where the girls demanded some quality shopping time. We later met them at Harry's and this time we were allowed in to sample their famous, almost iconic, Belllini, a drink made from peach juice and Prosecco wine (a sparkling variety). It was excellent, but with an exorbitant price tag. Oh well, how often does a person get this opportunity?  

    The next stop on our "Best of Italy" tour was Florence, cradle of the Renaissance and one of the greatest destinations in the world for the Arts. We arrived in the city at about noon, dropped off our bags and walked around the corner to see the Duomo, Florence's beautiful Santa Maria in Fiore Church, with its pink, green, and white marble, tastefully blended and accented with exquisite sculptures and other decorations. Above it looms the incredible Brunelleschi Dome, the largest in the world when it was built. We circled the church, checking it from all angles, admired the amazing bronze doors of the Baptistry, and explored the rather drab interior.

    Then we walked to the Piazza della Signoria, one of the major gathering places in the city, with its numerous well-known sculptures and the tall tower of the Palazzo Vecchio. We continued onward to the Arno River, where we checked out the Ponte Vecchio, a bridge

over the river which is lined with shops.

    The following day was "museum day". We had booked times online, prior to our arrival, for the Uffizi Gallery in the morning and the Accademia in the afternoon. Once again, it was refreshing to avoid the long lines at both venues. I would heartily recommend that everyone book reservations such as this prior to leaving home, because it saves a considerable amount of time.

    The Uffizi is one of the world's finest museums, since it started with the collection amassed by the Medici's, Florence's most powerful family. We lingered at the Botticelli's (especially the Birth of Venus), Rafael's, Titian's, Da Vinci's, and Michelangelo's. Downstairs, a special exhibit entitled "The Mind of Da Vinci" fascinated us.

    At the Accademia, the focal point for all is Michelangelo's David, which once stood in the Piazza della Signoria (now replaced by a copy). It is such an exquisite piece of Art that we spent many minutes admiring it from all angles.

    After that, the girls again wanted to do some shopping, so Eddie & I headed for the Santa Croce Church, another beautiful white marble church which is famous as the final resting place of many of Florence's most famous residents. We saw the tombs of Michelangelo, Rossini, Galileo, Marconi, and a special memorial to Dante (who is actually buried in Ravenna). The altar of the church is also exquisite.

    On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at the Santa Maria Novella Church with its interesting facade of green and white striped marble, Its lovely marble altarpiece is noteworthy, as well as some of the wall murals, its stained glass, choir stalls, and side altars.

    For dinner, we went to La Fonticine, a restaurant near our hotel which was recommended by Fodor's. It turned out to be one of the best meals of our trip. The pasta was "to die for" and the steaks were tasty and extremely tender.

   We followed this with gelato at our favorite place in Florence, Perseo, at one corner of the Piazza della Signoria. We especially enjoyed the Zuppa Inglese gelato. We lingered to watch some street performers, then headed back to our rooms.

   We drove south toward Siena and our last destination of the trip after the obligatory stop at the Piazzale Michelangelo, the overlook above the city which is the source of some many photographs of Florence's skyline. Here also is the third David sculpture, another copy. Because traffic made our exit from Florence rather slow, we decided to skip our drive through the Chiant wine country and head for San Gimignano, our only major stop on the way to Siena.

   San Gimignano is one of Tuscany's "Hill Towns" and what a lovely little town it is with its Medieval walls, narrow, cobblestone streets, light-colored brick buildings, and adorable little squares. The girls found ample shopping along the streets and Eddie & I explored and found numerous photo opportunities.

   It's not quite as "perfect" as San Marino, but it is close. We wandered through the Piazza della Cisterna and the Piazza del Duomo, admiring the towers which are the city's signature (it is often referred to as the "Manhattan of Italy"). There were originally 72 towers, but only 14 remain. The tallest tower still standing is the Torre Grosse and I climbed all 280 stairs to get a great view of the rooftops and the Tuscany countryside.

   Eddie & I also walked up to the Rocca which also provided great views. We bought several bottles of the famous local wine, Vernaccia, to bring home, but abandoned our original thought of shipping home a case or two because the cost was prohibitive.

   We continued to Siena and, for a change, had no difficulty finding our hotel, the Palazzo Ravizza, which we all loved. After unpacking, we headed immediately for the Piazza del Campo, Siena's famous main square, oval in shape, which is also the scene (two times a year) for the annual Palio, a horse race through the square between Siena's neighborhoods, for local bragging rights. The square is huge, flanked at one end by the imposing Palazzo Pubblico, the town hall, with its distinctive bell tower, Torre de Mangia. As always, around the square are numerous shops and restaurants.

    Siena's Duomo is almost as exquisite as Florence's. However, its beautiful facade was being restored. We had dinner at the hotel restaurant (very good!), took part in the evening passagiata, had our gelato, and went to bed (Siena is very quiet at night, since many of the visitors are day-trippers).

    After a nice breakfast, we headed south for Rome and the airport, completing our wonderful journey.

       

    This was my 60th birthday trip -- a long, road trip to an area that we have never been. We soon discovered that the distances were truly long and somewhat arduous, although we certainly enjoyed the trip anyway.

    We began with one of the longest drives of all, from home to St John, New Brunswick, a distance of 425 miles. We arrived in time to check in and explore the pedestrian-only Market Square area, right next to the harbor -- very cute! Then we strolled the downtown, very hilly and attractive, especially near the waterfront. At the top of the hill is a lovely park (King Square) which displays many sculptures and flowers. There were even hanging flowers on some of the streets. We returned to Market Square for dinner and lingered for a concert that we saw advertised earlier. Then it was back to the hotel since we were only staying for one night because our next stop was Sydney, Nova Scotia.

    Along the way to Sydney, we made our first significant detour. We headed into Fundy National Park, which features the famous Bay of Fundy tides, the world's largest. We had timed our trip so that we could witness low tide and it was quite impressive in a few places. Just beyond the northern end of the park was our second stop -- Hopewell Rocks, a group of offshore sea stacks which are partly submerged during high tide, but totally out of the water at low tide. They are seen on almost all tourist literature from New Brunswick and have become a symbol of the province. They are sometimes referred to as "flower rocks" because they are topped with vegetation, making them fairly unusual.

    We parked and took the walking trail, then descended the 92 metal stairs to "walk on the sea floor". The area is well-kept and maintained, since it is probably New Brunswick's most popular tourist attration.

    From Hopewell, we got back on the highway and headed for Sydney. Our total trip was over 500 miles, almost 100 miles more than I had calculated (shame on me!). We managed to arrive in the late afternoon, went to dinner, walked along the waterfront boardwalk and crashed.

   The next day was our much-anticipated scenic drive along the Cabot Trail. The lower part of the drive, near Baddeck, Nova Scotia, is nothing spectacular, just country road driving. However, when we reached Ingonish and entered Cape Breton Highlands National Park the road began to live up to its billing as one of the most beautiful scenic drives in North America.

    The road curves along the coast, climbing into the mountains, descending to sea level, winding throughout. Some of the vistas, especially those along the coast, are truly gorgeous. Even when the route turns west to traverse the Upper Cape, the inland scenery is also magnificent, with mountains and tree-lined valleys.

    We stopped to walk several trails within the park. First, we took the trail to Green Cove, a rocky beach similar to many areas of Rhode Island or Maine. The next trail we strolled was "The Bog", which looped through a highland fen and featured several types of orchids and some insectivorous plants. The last trail we walked was Le Buttereau, which follows an old cart path used by early settlers in the area.  There is still evidence of their homes.

    Our remaining stops were at the "Rusty Anchor" for a snack (Have the mussels!!) and then at Cheticamp, on the southwestern fringe of the park, for dinner. We got back to Sydney at about 5 PM after our long (280 miles), but leisurely day.

    The following morning was earmarked for our short trip (24 miles) to Louisbourg National Historic Site, which preserves the former capital and major city of the French colony, Isle Royale. The location is now an open-air museum which transports visitors back to the year, 1744. The restored buildings and streets look today as they did then, and people in costume describe their particular station in life, their job, etc. Some even demonstrate period crafts, such as, lace-making, baking, loading a musket, etc. Obviously, the concept is similar to places such as, Williamsburg, Plimoth Plantation, and Sturbridge Village, in the US. Here, it is well done, but it has the potential to be much better.

    We left Sydney for our drive to Halifax, a distance of almost 300 miles. We made good time and had plenty of daylight left to explore the city. We both highly recommend our hotel, the Residence Inn, which has an excellent location and many amenities, yet is reasonable. We headed first for the wharf area, which features a long, wide boardwalk and pedestrian-only walkways, loaded with shops and restaurants (it reminded us of Baltimore's Inner Harbor and Newport, RI). 

    We had a wonderful Italian (if you can believe it) meal at Il Mercato. Lee had the penne with pesto, and Gary had a sublime ravioli with chicken & mushroom dish. The spinach salad we shared was easily enough for two!

    Our next day's excursion took us through much of Nova Scotia's coastline. We first headed south, along the east coast toward the World Heritage Site of Lunenburg. Just before reaching the town, we passed through another quaint and lovely village by the sea, called Mahone Bay, a wonderfully tranquil setting. Lunenburg is also a picturesque seaside town. It is a marvel of 18th century architecture, from the exquisite Lunenburg Academy, recently restored, to the unusual and distinctive St John's Anglican Church, painted white with black trim.  We enjoyed strolling the streets, stopping occasionally, to browse in a shop or to have a snack and a beer. We took some pictures down by the harbor area, then traveled a bit out of town for our picnic lunch and to get a more distant view of the adorable village.

    We continued south, then west across the province, to Annapolis Royal, another quaint 18th century village. We totally enjoyed strolling the grounds of the Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens, one of the nicest in Canada.  We returned to Halifax along part of the Evangeline Trail, one of several historic drives in the province.

    Our last full day in Halifax began with a short excursion (about 20 miles) to Peggy's Cove, the most popular tourist attraction in this part of Canada. Peggy's Cove is a tiny, quaint, fishing village, famous with artists and known for its Lighthouse, which rises prominently from weathered boulders at the point of the cove. We parked at the Visitor Center and walked to the lighthouse (only a few minutes), took some pictures, peeked in several shops, and admired William E Garth Memorial Park, which displays a beautiful sculpture in granite begun by the namesake when he was 70 years old and subsequently completed after his death in 1988. It depicts fishermen and their families in several scenes.

   When we returned to Halifax, headed uphill, away from the harbor, to the Halifax Public Gardens, a delightful, peaceful alternative to the hustle and bustle of the city. We ambled along several paths, stopping to admire the beautiful flowers, sculptures, and waterways. From here we crossed the road to the Citadel, the formidable fortification at the top of the hill above the harbor. There happened to be an annual demonstration, entitled "Changing of the Guard" which involved displays of weapons and battle tactics in traditional uniforms, and we watched for a while.

    Lee and I really liked Halifax, a city with a small-town feel that is pleasant for walking, except for the hills, and which has access to a number of great excursions.  We finished this last, low-key day with another excellent meal at Il Mercato.

    We left Halifax early in the morning and drove to Yarmouth, on the southern coast of the province, to board The Cat, a high-speed catamaran which ferries people from Nova Scotia to Maine (Bar Harbor) on a regular basis. From Bar Harbor, we had dinner and drove home.

   

     

    This was another of our compressed trips -- an attempt to accomplish a lot in a fairly short amount of time. The length of this trip to Europe was only about nine days.

    We flew into Charles de Gaulle Airport, outside of Paris, and immediately headed for Chartres to tour the very famous Chartres Cathedral, one of the most important Gothic cathedrals in Europe and a model for many churches built after it. We stopped first at an overlook, which offered a stunning view of the Cathedral (Photo #1) perched on a hill above the town. We then admired the interior of the cathedral with its beautiful stained glass, especially the distinctive "Chartres blue" color.

    From Chartres, we headed southwest into the Loire Valley, to our next stop, Chambord (Photo #2), a huge and extremely unusual chateau with many turrets and towers. In the interest of time, we decided not to tour the interior of the mansion, but to move further down the valley to Chenonceau, another of the premier, luxurious palaces in this part of France.

    Chenonceau (Photos 3 & 4) was truly elegant, not garish like Chambord, with beautiful gardens and a lovely setting along and over the river Cher. The interior was not as lavish as some other palaces we have visited, but the fireplaces were particularly impressive and the Gallery, an additiion built by Catherine de Medici, is a nice touch. We spent the night in the city of Tours, crashing early because of jet lag and our long sightseeing day.

    Rain greeted us the next morning and it managed to rain all day long. This was, unfortunately, our drive to Mont-St-Michel (Photos 5 & 6). We did manage to see the impressive cathedral rising dramatically like a mountain from the misty ocean -- what a breathtaking sight! This setting is truly unique -- a church perched on the top of an offshore rocky crag, towering over the village below. We were mesmerized by the scene and were extremely excited to get closer.

    We parked in a large lot along the causeway which connects the island to the shore and then walked through the gates of the walled, Medieval village. We joined the hordes of people walking up the narrow, cobblestone, pedestrian-only street (very steep and including 300 stairs) toward the Abbey, the church which dates to 708 AD. We opted for a guided tour and were very pleased because of the wealth of information provided by Alain, our guide. The construction of the complex took many years and was extremely complicated, but the result was extraordinary. We even saw the "crypts" beneath the Abbey which are not tombs, but hidden areas supporting the sections of the church. We loved the Cloister (Photo #7), a place designed for solitude and pondering.

    After our tour, we strolled back down into the village, browsed in numerous shops, and had dinner. Then we continued on to Caen, our stop for the night. The next morning we headed for the Normandy Beaches, our destination for the day. Along the way, we stopped for several hours in the town of Bayeaux to view the famous Bayeaux Tapestry, an artistic chronicle of the events leading up to and in the Battle of Hastings, that monumental conflict, on October 14, 1066, in which William the Conqueror defeated the British and forever changed the history of Western Civilization. The tapestry is about 70 yards long and provides a detailed, unparalleled history of this cataclysmic event. The Audioguide was excellent but it was unnecessary to start on the second floor with the copy. Save time by just doing the original. While in town we also checked out the impressive cathedral and stopped for a coffee where we met an interesting family from Michigan. The conversation led us to believe that they might even be related to me, although, sadly, we forgot to exchange address and contact information.

    We then drove to the Normandy Beaches, driving through a number of small towns along the shoreline, such as, Arromanches, Port du Bessin, Colleville, etc. Our most important stop was at Omaha Beach (Photo #9), the primary American embarkation point and the place where so many US soldiers lost their lives. The beach was innocuous, just a strip of sand which belies the carnage that took place here. We could, however, see the gun emplacements on the ridge above the beach which were so difficult to assault.

    Next we headed a bit inland to the American Cemetery (Photo #10) with its beautiful memorial and its rows and rows of simple crosses which mark the final resting place of so many young men. The experience was extremely moving and somber. Imagine 9,387 graves (which only represent 39% of the actual casualties). We walked among the gravestones for a while, trying to appreciate the magnitude.

    We returned to Caen and took a walk around town, stopping at Le Chateau (Photo #11) the castle of William the Conqueror. Further into our walk, we found an excellent restaurant, Alcide where I began with Normandy's famous mussels (moules) and Lee had snails. I followed this with lamb chops while Lee had the duck. The enitre meal was great!

    Next stop -- Brussels, Belgium. We had difficulty finding our hotel, because it was in a strange place, on a one-way street, and our map was very poor (Oh, the value of good maps!!). After a brief rest, we walked (briskly for over 20 minutes) to the Grand Place (Photos 12 & 14), Brussel's premier attraction, and, perhaps, the most elegant square in all of Europe, certainly one of the grandest. The Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) (Photo #13) is positively magnificent, with a 300 foot tower and adorned with numerous statues, spires, and gargoyles. The other buildings are also beautiful, many gilded, many with great detail, and decorated with sculptures. Most of them were former Guild Houses and their occupants were obviously trying to outdo one another.

    Our walking tour from the square took us first by Manneken Pis (Photo #15), a small sculpture of a little boy peeing, which has become a symbol of the city. Then we headed uphill to the Place du Sablon, where we had a snack of Belgium beer (fantastic!), wine and cheese and crackers.

    Fortified, we continued uphill to the Place du Petit Sablon, an adorable little courtyard, surrounded by wrought-iron, topped with numerous statues. Within the courtyard were additional sculptures and lots of greenery. Nearby was the beautiful Church of the Notre Dame au Sablon, a flamboyant Gothic edifice. The stained glass behind the altar is stunning!

    Beyond the church we passed the Royal Palace (Photo #16) and then made our way back down to the main square for dinner and then finally back to the hotel to crash after another long, long day.

    The following day was our eagerly awaited excursion to Bruges, one of the best-preserved, Medieval towns in all of Europe. It is often referred to as a "time capsule" of life in the Middle Ages, since the city was abandoned for 500 years, then resurrected as a tourist destination. Bruges is close to Brussels (about 60 miles away) and a great walking city. Our first destination in the city was the Markt (Photos 17, 18 & 19), Bruges' glorious market square, surrounded by interesting buildings with characteristically Low Country architecture.

    Nearby is another wonderful square, known as the Burg (Photo #20), where we found the Town Hall and the beautiful Basilica of the Holy Blood (Photo #21), which reputedly contains a relic of the blood of Jesus Christ.

    Next we took a relaxing boat ride through the canals of Bruges, sometimes known as the "Venice of the North". Lastly, we went to the Church of Our Lady, the tallest building in the city, which, surprisingly, contains one of the few Michelangelo sculptures found outside of Italy. We did a bit of shopping, then headed back to Brussels, where we purchased some sweets (to take home) from Mary Chocolatier, an enterprise which supplies some of the European monarchs with fine chocolate.

   We left Brussels the next morning and headed into the Netherlands. Our first stop there was at Kinderdijk, where UNESCO has recognized a cluster of windmills to be preserved for all time. Then it was onward to Delft, another adorable European village. We strolled the main square and several side streets, managed to buy some Delftware, blue and white porcelain which is the area's specialty and had a great lunch at Stads, right near the Tourist Office.  We also checked out the Oude Kerk (Old Church) and the Niewe Kerk (New Church) before leaving for Lisse.

    Here we visited the world-famous Keukenhof Gardens (Photos 24 & 25), without question one of the world's best flower gardens. Because it was spring, it was the perfect time for blooming tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, etc. The grounds were absolutely beautiful, with myriad paths through the flower gardens, as well as streams and ponds to add ambience. There were also indoor pavilions which housed more tender botanical specimens, such as begonias, orchids and bromeliads. It was a definite highlight of our trip!

   We arrived in Amsterdam at about 6:30 PM, exhausted from our full day of sightseeing. Early the next morning, we set our for the Anne Frank House, the number one tourist attraction in the city, and rightly so. We were extremely moved by the entire experience and feel like we better understand the ordeal of Anne and other Jews during the scary time of Nazi rule.

    We then walked through Dam Square (not very attractive and extremely busy with traffic).  Later we found a much more welcoming square (the Niewe Market), the Old Church (Oude Kerk), and also the Red Light District, which we found fascinating. Down near the docks we visited the gorgeous St Nicholas Church and then embarked on our Canal Boat Cruise (Photo #26) which was both relaxing and informative. Our last stop of the day was at the world-famous Rijksmuseum, where we were especially impressed with Rembrandt's The Night Watch.

   We left Amsterdam the next morning and headed for our final destination, Luxembourg City, Luxembourg. We took an abbreviated walking tour of the Old Town (shortened mainly because the ramparts and walls were essentially closed down for construction). We had a beer on the Place d'Armes, a cute little square which is the major gathering place here, and then strolled to the Place d'Constitution which provides a view of the fortifications (Photo #28) and the casemates (storage caves in the cliffs). We managed to sneak into the Notre Dame Cathedral just as it was closing, and then walked further to the Palace of the Grand Dukes (Photo #27), a very elegant building and through several other interesting squares.

    In the morning we headed for the airport in Paris and then home.

 

       Lessons learned:  A big factor in this trip turned out to be weather. We had rain and/or cloudy-cool for almost the entire trip. The weather can have a serious impact, and, unfortunately, nothing can be done about it. Our trip to Mont-St-Michel (to me the most important destination of the entire trip) was almost ruined because of the heavy rain -- we were constantly wet and uncomfortable for most of our visit there, yet we still managed to see the place and still came away with a positive experience. Thus, attitude is probably the most important aspect of dealing with bad weather -- if you are determined to continue despite the weather, there is a reasonable chance of success. Another important consideration is dress -- travelers should always be prepared for bad weather. The other aspect is flexibility -- perhaps, an excursion can be postponed or substituted if the itinerary permits. Sometimes, a particular might have to be sacrificed entirely, especially if it's not an important site or something you can do at another time. Thus, there is no true solution for this potential problem, but there are attitudes and behaviors which can minimize the overall effect.

     The following is a continuation of our Eastern Europe trip (since no more photos could be added)

 

         Our next excursion was to Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, which is only about 50 miles east of Vienna but many years away in culture and sophistication.  However, we both thought Bratislava was wonderful!! The Old Town is quaint and charming, there are no large crowds, and, most important, it's cheap!

    We began our exploration at the Primate Palace (Photo #1), a mansion with many old tapestries, a Hall of Mirrors, and absolutely gorgeous bathrooms. We actually were looking for a bathroom, but had to pay the admission ($1.25 per person) to get to the bathrooms, so we stayed and toured the building.

    From here we walked a short distance to the Old Town Main Square (Photo #2), an adorable spot with the Town Hall and other colorful, interesting buildings. We also walked up numerous stairs to Bratislava Castle (Photo #3), a rather stark-looking edifice. For dinner, we went to a wonderful restaurant, Vinaren Velky Frantiskani, which was below street level with a cave-decor that reminded us of Botin. I loved the Cesnakova polievka (Garlic Soup), and the Bryndzove halusky (dumplings baked with sheep's milk & bits of bacon). Lee enjoyed the spicy, stuffed pork, plus we had a bottle of the local Riesling, all for about $25.

    The next day was our longest (we had no idea!) excursion, a drive to Krakow, Poland. We left early and were using directions I downloaded from Via Michelin - they were not very good. Poland's roads were poor, with numerous potholes, ruts, dips, and bumps, and much traffic on the single-lane roads. We finally arrived in Krakow at about 2:30 PM. We parked right near Wawel Castle (Photo #4), and walked downhill to the Old Town. I found Krakow beautiful and exciting; it was unfortunate that we were not able to spend more time there.   

   The Main Square (Rynek Glowny) is huge (the largest in Europe), beautiful, anchored by very interesting buildings, and filled with fun-loving people and performers. We truly enjoyed the Sukiennice (Cloth Hall) (Photo #5), a large yellow building which sits in the middle of the square. It is now a covered marketplace, selling all types of merchandise.  At opposite corners of the square are the Town Hall and the lovely St Mary's Church, with its very plain, brick exterior, but gorgeous interior (Photo #6). Every hour a trumpeter begins a melody which is stopped abruptly, as it was in the 13th century when the trumpeter was killed by a Tatar arrow.

    We left the city at about 5:30 PM, got hopelessly lost for a while, then again as we neared Vienna but did not reach our hotel till about 1 AM (What a day!). I vowed not to plan any more lengthy day trips in Europe -- you just don't know what to expect.

    Our next day was designed for relaxation, and it couldn't have come at a better time, after yesterday's fiasco. We slept late, had our laundry done, mailed some packages home, and even worked out in the afternoon. What a relief to cool it and wind down a bit.

   The following day was our last full day in Vienna, so we decided to visit any of the leftovers - things we had missed in the city. We began at Belvedere Palace (Photo #7), another elegant and stately mansion which has been converted into a museum about the history of Austria. The palace is beautiful, with well-tended gardens and extensive grounds, and the museum was fascinating.

    Later, we drove a short distance to see perhaps the most unusual architectural piece in the entire city, the Hundertwasserhaus (Photo #8), an apartment house, painted like a checkerboard, with various bold colors, with foliage springing out of it. It also has columns, covered with unusual materials, and even turrets -- what a hodgepodge! 

    We left Vienna and headed northwest for Prague, Czech Republic. On the way we stopped for several hours in the adorable Southern Bohemian village of Cesky Krumlov. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and lovely in its Medieval splendor. We enjoyed walking the narrow, cobblestone streets of the Old Town (Photos 9 & 10), lingering in the Main Square (Photo #11) and then walking uphill to the Castle and the Chateau. Ofr Lee & I, these small, quaint villages are the highlights of our trips -- they are perfect for strolling and always seem to display interesting architecture and snippets of culture.

    In the afternoon, it was off to Prague, one of the most beautiful cities in the world. On our first full day in the city, we decided to the Castle district and the Lower Town (Mala Strana). We started at the Charles Bridge (Karlovy Most) (Photo #12), one of the major gathering places in the city. The bridge is noteworthy for its distinctive towers and the many statues which line its span.

   We climbed the steep hill to the Castle (Photo #14), which is really a complex of numerous buildings, churches, and courtyards and lanes. Notable structures were St Vitus Cathedral, with its beautiful stained glass windows, and Golden Lane (Photo #13), an alleyway with tiny houses built into the castle walls. One of the houses (#22) was where Franz Kafka lived and worked.  We also visited St George Basilica, impressive because of its age (dates to 973 AD).

   The next day we strolled the Old Town, the other side of the river from the Castle. We started at huge, oblong Wenceslas Square which is crowded with shops and which has considerable traffic traveling through. It is historically significant because it was here that the Czech people finally threw off the mantle of Communism and began to join the free world.

    On the way to Old Town Square, we stopped to admire the  Art-deco Municipal House (Photo #15), right next to the Powder Gate, one of the city's original gates.  When we reached the Old Town Square (Photos 16 & 17) we were amazed at how beautiful and interesting it was -- the architecture is varied and all the buildings are in magnificent condition. We marveled at the Astronomical Clock in the Town Hall and strolled endlessly, looking carefully at all the facades.

    We also walked through the Jewish part of the Old Town and noted the Old-New Synagogue (Photo 18) and the cemetery which are the major tourist stops here.  We spent the rest of the day shopping, browsing and wandering the narrow streets.

    Our next destination was the city of Munich, Germany, capital of the region of Bavaria. Out hotel, the Platzl is right next to the famous Hofbrauhaus and just outside the Old Town gate. We spent most of the rest of our arrival day exploring Marienplatz, the main square in the old part of the city. It is another huge square, anchored by the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) (Photo #19) and the Gothic-looking Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall).  The Glockenspiel on the New Town Hall performs a lengthy song and movement several times per day. We could also see the Frauenkirchen, the Church of Our Lady, with its twin brick steeples, from the square. Dinner that evening was at the Hofbrauhaus where we listened to the Oompah Band and enjoyed the tasty German beer.

   On our last day in Munich we first went to the Deutches Museum (Photo #21), probably the best technology museum in the world. We enjoyed the many hands-on exhibits, like Chemistry, Food Technology, and Toys, and were fascinated with Aeronautics and Musical Instruments.

   Next we headed for the Residenz (Photo #22), the Royal Palace of the city. Much of it was closed, but we were able to see Cuvillies Theater, a Baroque masterpiece and one of the highlights of the complex.

   Lastly, we took the tram to Nymphenburg (Photo #23), the summer palace, on the outskirts of the city. It was another in a long line of palaces with beautiful rooms, ornate furnishings, sprawling grounds, fountains, etc. Then we crashed early because we were facing a long ride to Frankfurt and our return flight home.

    We had one last stop to make in the morning on our way to the airport. We spent several hours in the Romantic Road hamlet of Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Photos 24 & 25), perhaps the cutest village we saw on the whole trip. Rothenburg is a walled, Medieval town whose residents are almost obsessive about the favorable presentation of their homes and businesses. The timbered buildings are decorated with flowers and the streets are kept clean and attractive. We absolutely loved wandering the narrow, cobblestone streets and browsing in the many shops. We also walked the walls which provided great views of the surrounding countryside. It was a fitting end to a truly wonderful trip!

    We began this momentous trip when our flight touched down in Frankfurt, Germany. We immediately picked up our car at the airport and got onto the Autobahn, heading south then east to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, at the base of the Alps. We made only one stop, in the delightful town of Heidelberg to briefly check out this University town, with its unusual city gates (Photo #1), Medieval architecture and imposing Schloss (castle). Driving the Autobahn was not as challenging as I expected. We actually hit numerous pockets of heavy traffic and really did not make very good time (partially due to the heavy rain we experienced on the road).

    The scenery became noticeably more beautiful as we reached Bavaria and was positively gorgeous when we reached the Alps. We had made reservations at the Edelweiss Resort (photo #2, a US military-owned establishment, which was very new, extremely attractive, and set picturesquesly at the base of the Alps (this is one of the best perks available to Active and Retired Military -- there are other facilities like this in Disney World and on Waikiki Beach). We used the resort as our base for several day trips into the surrounding countryside.

    The next morning we left for Linderhof (Photos 3 & 4), one of Mad King Ludwig's remarkable and elaborate castles.  Linderhof is his smallest castle, but is gilded to the nines -- the rooms have painted ceilings, tapestries, huge, intricate chandeliers, etc. and the grounds are just as elaborate, with fountains, gardens, statues, etc. Of special note is the Grotto (Photo #5)(a make-believe cave, with its own pool, containing a shell-boat, similar to the one in Wagner's Lohengrin). Ludwig was especially obsessed with Wagner.

    From here we drove to Ettal to see the famous Ettal Monastery (Photos 6,7,&8), a beautiful Rococco edifice. The interior was stunning and we wandered around the church, fascinated with the intricate artwork.

    Next we drove to Mittenwald (Photo #9), a small village near the Austrian border, which is famous for its painted houses -- the facades of the buildings are painted with bright and interesting scenes. Even the church bell tower was painted! We strolled the streets admiring this unusual and charming place.

    Then we crossed the Austrian border in order to visit Innsbruck, the quintessential Tyrolean town, nestled in the Alps. We absolutely loved Innsbruck. The Old Town (Photo #10) is beautiful with its striking architecture (the Golden Roof and the Heilbing House) and its setting is to die for! It definitely caters to tourists, with its hundreds of shops lining both sides of the streets. We stopped in at the Hofkirche (Town Church) which contains the elaborately decorated mausoleum of Maximillian I (Photo #11), flanked by 28 bronze, life-size statues representing his real and legendary ancestors. Check out the view from St Anne's Column looking back toward the Golden Roof, with the backdrop of snow-covered mountains -- spectacular!

     From Innsbruck, we decided to check out a town mentioned in Rick Steves' book, Hall im Tyrol (Photo #12) -- Rick suggests that this town can replace Innsbruck on an itinerary since it is similar, but much less crowded. The second part is definitely correct. Innsbruck had hordes of people and Hall has many fewer. The first part of his statement, however, in our estimation, is totally false. Hall does not compare with Innsbruck with regard to architecture, variety, or setting. It does have a certain charm, and we walked the streets in and around its main square in an attempt to appreciate this, but it pales next to Innsbruck. Leaving Hall, we had an unfortunate incident -- we were stopped by the Austrian police for not having a sticker allowing us to travel the highways. We eventually paid the fine, but were upset with our rental company for not informing us (see lessons learned).

     The next day was our exploration of the lower part of the Romantic Road, a series of quaint Medieval towns which run, basically north to south from Upper Bavaria to the Austrian border. We decided to begin with a visit to Hohenschwangau (Photo #14) and Neuschwanstein (Photo #18), two elaborate castles associated with Mad King Ludwig. On the way we stopped at a charming little village nestled in the Austrian Alps, known as Lermoos (Photo #13), just to take a picture.

     When we reached the Konigschlossen (King's Castles), our guided tour brought us first to Hohenschwangau, Ludwig's boyhood home. We were informed about the future king's childhood and about some of the reasons for his break with reality. Then we took a shuttle bus to St Mary's Bridge (Photo #15), which offers a breathtaking view of Neuschwanstein, across a gorge. The path from here to the castle is mostly downhill, so we walked and then waited a few minutes for our tour to begin.

    This tour was great! The castle, even though never completely finished, is extremely impressive -- Ludwig certainly had a flair! Especially noteworthy were his bedroom (the intricate woodwork took a number of craftsmen several years to complete), the Throne Room (with no throne because it was never finished) and the Theater/Music Room (Photo #16), designed for Arts Performances.  He also built a cave next to his bedroom, similar to the Grotto at Linderhof. Our visit required climbing a considerable number of stairs, so beware if you are not in shape.

    Our next stop was the lovely village of Fussen (Photo #17) where we strolled the pedestrian-only streets and had a short lunch. Then we traveled north to Wies to see the incredible, UNESCO World Heritage-recognized Wieskirche, considered the most beautiful Baroque masterpiece of ornate splendor (Photos 19 & 20).

    The Romantic Road village of Oberammergau (Photo #21) was next on our itinerary, another charming German village with painted houses. This town is famous for its Passion Play,performed every ten years since the 1600's -- because of a promise made by the townspeople for being spared from the Plague. It is also known for its wood-carving, and this is where we purchased our lovely cuckoo clock.

   We left Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the morning and headed for Salzburg, Austria, famous for Mozart and The Sound of Music, and our next destination. During the afternoon, we took our self-guided walking tour of the Old Town, checking out Mozart's Birthplace, Mozartplatz (Photo #23), Hohensalzburg (Photo #22), the white fortress on the hill above the city, and the lovely Mirabell Gardens (Photo #24), one of the locales made famous by the movie, based on the Von Trapp's. We loved the view of the city from the footbridge over the Salzbach River.

    We left Salzburg, wishing we had more time to spend here, and headed first to Melk to tour the famous Melk Abbey (Photo #25). This is a positively beautiful place -- even the museum was cool. The Library is exquisite, with over 80,000 volumes in a two-storey room with painted ceilings and other decorations. The Abbey Church is breath-taking, another Baroque masterpiece of gold and paint. We drove down into the town to see if we could get a photo of the Abbey from afar, high on its ridge above the city. We found the perfect view right on the Rhine River, on the edge of town.

    Vienna was next, and here was our opportunity to settle in for a while -- we were staying in the Marriott for a full week, and although I had planned several all day excursions, we would have several days to do little or nothing. We upgraded our exchange and got access to the Executive Lounge which provides food and drink over the course of each day -- this actually saved us quite a bit of money since we ate breakfast every day and dinner occasionally in the lounge.

    OUr first foray into the city was a walking tour down Kartnerstrasse, the main, pedestrian-only thoroughfare in the Altstadt (Old City). We marveled at Stephansdom (photo #26), the beautiful Gothic cathedral, which is surprisingly ornate inside, and were fascinated with its distinctive mosaic tile roof.

    Before returning to the hotel, we strolled through Stadtpark, right across from the Marriott, and took pictures in front of the golden statue of Johann Strauss Jr ("The Waltz King") (Photo #27).

       On our first full day in Vienna we decided to see the elegant city's sights. We began by taking the U-bahn to Schonnbrunn Palace (Photo #28), the summer palace of Austrian monarchs since 1700. This stately, magnificent residence was built originally as a hunting lodge and expanded over the years. It now has 1,441 rooms and beautiful gardens and grounds. We decided to take the Audiotour which was very thorough although somewhat long. The Neptune Fountain and Gloriette were impressive, although views of the palace from the grounds were spoiled by scaffolding due to construction on the rear of the palace.

      

     We began this trip in Albuquerque, New Mexico. We used this city as a base for our entire stay and just made day trips from here for the 4 1/2 days we spent out west. Our first stop, after checking in and getting our bearings, was Old Town, Albuquerque. This area of the city is preserved as a classic Colonial, Spanish village, with a central square and numerous abode buildings around the square, extending for several blocks. We visited an old, adobe San Felipe de Neri Church (Photo #1) and basically walked the entire area -- very charming and quaint. There were an incredible number of shops, and, over the course of our stay, we checked out many of them, purchasing a number of trinkets and souvenirs.

   The next day was our excursion into Eastern Arizona. We drove first to Meteor Crater (Photo #2), near Winslow, and marveled at the immense depression created by an asteroid or meteor impact some 50,000 years ago.  The resulting crater is nearly a mile across and almost 600 feet deep. As a science teacher, I was fascinated by the information presented at the Visitor Center.  

    Our next stop took us back toward the New Mexico border. We drove southeast to the south entrance of Petrified Forest National Park. The 28 mile scenic drive through the park allowed access to numerous overlooks and trails, and we checked out many of them. Particularly beautiful stops were Kachina Point and Pintado Point. The Giant Logs Trail (Photo #3) was interesting and informative.

   This park also includes an area known as the Painted Desert (Photo #4), a striking landscape of multi-colored sandstone mounds which extend even beyond the park borders.

   The next day we left early for Santa Fe, New Mexico's capital and the USA's oldest capital city. The city's pride in southwestern culture is evident in its architecture. The Old Town is remarkably well-preserved and is ideal for walking. Many artists have been attracted to the area, so there is an abundance of art galleries and museums. The Palace of the Governors, on one side of the main square, is now a museum and Native Americans display their wares on blankets along the front of the building.

    The San Miguel Mission (Photo #5) is one of the many lovely churches in the city. Another church with an interesting story is the Loretto Chapel (Photo #6). We were fascinated with the legend about the "miraculous staircase", a spiral staircase with no visible support beams or nails, built by a transient carpenter who left as soon as he was done, without asking for payment or giving his name. He accomplished all this with only a T-square, a hammer, a saw, and a tub for bending water-soaked wood.  

    From Santa Fe, we traveled northeast on the scenic "High Road to Taos" to visit the famous Taos Pueblo (Photo #7), the oldest continuously inhabited community in the US. It was namesd a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. On the drive, Lee was particularly impressed with El Santuario de Chimayo, a chapel with reputed healing powers where numerous pilgrims have left their crutches and other relics of their infirmity.  

    Taos Pueblo is a huge complex of apartments at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and also at the source of the Rio Grande River.  There is also a lovely church (Photo #8) on the grounds. Our native guide was very informative about the history and lifestyle of the culture. The current inhabitants sell their crafts in some of the rooms on the ground floor. The village of Taos is also quaint and charming.

   Our last day trip was to Chaco Culture National Historic Park which preserves the ruins of American Indian habitations which date back to the 9th century. We did an incredible amount of walking on our self-guiding tour which covered numerous ruins. The most impressive was Pueblo Bonito (Photo #9), the largest of the great houses, which had, at its peak, more than 600 rooms, 40 kivas (round ceremonial pits), and was four stories high.  If you go, keep in mind that much of the 21 mile access road is unpaved and that there are few services in the park.

    When we returned to Albuquerque, we took a nostalgic drive along Historic Route 66, which passes directly through the city and contains a number of vintage establishments (Photo #10) from the days when this was the principal road for travelers from the east and midwest to this part of the country.

     We were both a little nervous about this trip for several reasons. Not long after we booked the trip, there were several terrorist incidents in Istanbul which made Lee very fearful. To allay her fears, we actually called the US embassy in Istanbul and Lee spoke directly with a female security guard, who, thankfully, reassured her that there was little danger. She even had her son with her. She did remind us to take some common-sense precautions, however.

    I was also a bit nervous because I booked this trip on the internet, and, even though we checked the credentials of the travel agency and were very cautious about getting everything spelled out in writing, I felt somehat exposed and vulnerable until events on the itinerary actually took place.  Both of us ended up being pleasantly surprised by the overall outcome.

   Other new experiences included not driving myself, and, besides that, we were to have several private tours and we had no idea what to expect.

   We arrived in Athens and checked into our hotel at around 11 AM -- we are staying right in the Plaka, the area just beneath the Acropolis and the oldest part of the city. We have a balcony with a great view of the Parthenon (Photo #16). In the early afternoon, we were taken on a private tour of the city. Our guide, Yannis, was a history teacher, so he was able to give us a living history lesson during our excursion. We stopped at the old Olympic Stadium, where the olympic flame is housed until the games begin and then headed for the Acropolis. Along the way, we passed a number of sights -- Syntagma Square, the National Gardens, and the Royal Palace.

    We spent the majority of our time at the Acropolis, and it did not disappoint. The ruins are magnificent, especially the Parthenon. We saw the Odeon of Herodotus-Atticus, still used today during the summer for performances of Greek plays. The Propylea was the entrance to the Acropolis and one can still imagine its splendor. The Erechthyon (Photo #17), on the north side of the hill, was also impressive with its Karyatids instead of columns. But the piece-de-resistance was undoubtedly the Parthenon -- it is regal, graceful, and beautiful, although much changed from its 5th Century BC grandeur.

    It dominates the Acropolis and remains a clear-cut symbol of Ancient Greece despite its ubiquitous scaffolding and seemingly perpetual restoration.

    The Acropolis Museum is a treasure trove of original sculptures rescued from the damaging, polluted air of Athens, and of reproductions which show what the Acropolis actually looked like in its heyday.

    From the summit, we had great views of the Agora, the Temple of Hephaistus, and the Theater of Dionysus (the oldest theater in the world), the Areopagus (Hill of Curses), which is associated with St Paul's first visit to the city, and Likavitos Hill, with its St George's Church.

    In the evening, we walked to the Kolonaki area (upscale restaurants and shops) and back through the Plaka before crashing at our hotel. We enjoyed looking at the attractively lit Parthenon from our balcony.

    Day 2 - This was our all-day excursion to Delphi (Photo #15). On the way, we stopped at the village of Arohura (very picturesque), then continued on to Delphi.

     The ruins of the Temple of Apollo and the famous Delphi Oracle are located on the slopes of 9,000 foot Mt Parnassus. The Oracle was in operation from 800 BC to 400 AD and was consulted by rich and poor from all over the known world. We bagan our walking tour of the site at the marketplace, which offered goods to be used as offerings to the Oracle. The "sacred way" (the route from marketplace to Oracle) was lined with "treasuries" (buildings erected by the various city-states of Greece to hold their municipal stores of offerings). The largest of these treasuries was the Athenian Treasury. Just above was the Temple of Apollo. Only 4 or 5 columns remain of the huge edifice. Beneath the temple were the two rooms which constituted the Oracle.

     The first room was the Reception Room, where petitioners were met by the priests of the Oracle who accepted their gifts and heard their query. The second room was exclusively used by the Oracle itself, typically an ignorant virgin from the village who stayed in this room, exposed to vapors rising from underground. She was entranced by the vapors and received a message which was spoken aloud in an unintelligible mumbo-jumbo. The priests then translated the message into the Oracle's response. Responses were typically vague and always contained some ambiguity. Thus, when King Croesus consulted the Oracle about an impending battle, he was told that a great civilization would be destroyed. He assumed the message was foretelling his victory, but, instead, his civilization was destroyed when he lost the battle.

     The steep path above the temple leads first to the amphitheater and then, even higher, the Stadium where the Pythian Games were held. They were much like the Olympic Games and pitted athletes from all over Greece against one another in various sports.

     After a lunch in the town of Delphi, we traveled back to Athens. For supper, we went to the Plaka Restaurant where Lee had the moussaka (great) and Gary had a very tasty lamb souvlaki.

    The next day we were transported to Piraeus, the Athenian port city, for our cruise of the Greek Islands. Our ship was the World Renaissance, of the Royal Olympic Line. It was nowhere near as luxurious as the major cruise ships, but it served the purpose.

    Our first stop was Mykonos (Photo #14)-- a truly beautiful place. Imagine hundreds of white-washed buildings sloping down to a U-shaped, tranquil harbor. Myriad, narrow, winding alleyways, lined with shops and chapels, spread out below a ridge of white-washed windmills.

    We absolutely loved strolling the streets, backtracking because of dead-end streets, getting lost, but not worrying. We delighted in sitting outside a bar in Little Venice, watching Petras, the resident pelican, strut, and taking pictures of the town with its row of quaint windmills above us.

    Our next port was the city of Kusadasi, in Turkey, the gateway to the ancient Roman city of Ephesus. The city's origins go back to the time of Alexander the Great (about 400 BC) and it grew and thrived throughout Roman times till about 600 AD. We walked the marble road, the main street of the city (as a matter of fact, practically the entire city was made of marble, an indication of its wealth). We began our guided stroll at the government center (agora, town hall, etc) and walked downhill to the port (Ephesus was a coastal city 2,000 years agoe but the sea has since receded 7 miles).

    Some of the notable and best-preserved structures include the Celsius Library (Photo #13)(one of the three major libraries in the ancient world, along with Alexandria and Pergamum), the Fountain of Trajan (a two-storey structure which reminds us of the Trevi), and the Amphitheater (one of the largest, along with Epidaurus, remaining from this time), still used for summer concerts.

    Ephesus has a religious significance too. St John came here, as did St Paul (remember his Letters to the Ephesians), and Mary, the mother of Jesus, had a house just outside the city. Also, Ephesus was the site of the Temple of Artemis, one of the "Seven Wonders of the World", described by Herodotus.

    After a brief stop at the rug markets in Kusadasi (where Lee & I invested in a beautiful hand-made Oriental rug), we departed and headed for our second port of the day, the Greek Island of Patmos. Here, our excursion took us to the Monastery of St John the Theologian (Photo #12), built on the highest hill of the island. St John lived on Patmos from 95 - 97 AD, when he was an old man and in exile. He is the author of one of the Gospels, and of the Book of Revelations. Historians believe that the Apolcalypse, about which he vividly wrote, was the result of visions he received inside a cave/grotto on the island (a place that we got to visit on our tour). The split in the cave wall is cited as evidence of God's hand in the vision.

    The monastery, which dates to the 11th century, is still in operation and contains a beautiful church with frescoes from the period. The museum on the grounds displays artifacts left by pilgrims, for example, a painting by El Greco, and several relics left by Catherine the Great of Russia.

    This evening's meal on the ship was "Greek Night". The appetizers included, Domathokea (grape leaves stuffed with rice and onions), Taramosalata (fish egg dip), Tzatziki (yogurt and garlic), Spanakopita (filo pastry filled with spinach, feta cheese, and eggs), Keftethokia (mincemeat balls with onions, herbs, and bread crumbs). Entrees included Kalamarika (fried squid) and lamb. Desserts were Galactoborika (flaked pastry filled with custard and steeped in syrup), baklava (flaky pastry, honey-drenched and filled with nuts), and karetopita (walnut cake).   Nota bene:  I hope I spelled these dishes correctly

    The entire next day was spent on the island of Rhodes. We did not sign up for an excursion so we had the whole day in the beautiful, Medieval walled city. We saw the place where another of the "Seven Wonders of the World", the Colossus of Rhodes, stood, straddling the harbor until crumpled by an earthquake. The location is marked, today, by the presence of two columns (Photo #11), topped by deer sculptures (the symbol of the city).

    We wandered through the cobblestone streets, admiring the turreted city walls and gates. The Street of the Knights (Ippoloton) leads up to the Palace of the Grand Master (Photo #10), a beautiful castle with lovely gardens. Along the street are numerous "Inns", places where the Knights of St John were housed. This entire area is regarded as one of the best-preserved Medieval relics in the world.

    We got a great view of the city by climbing the Byzantine Clock Tower (83 steps) and were rewarded for our effort with a bottle of Greek beer (mithros) in the bar at the bottom of the tower.

    The remainder of our day was spent strolling and shopping in this adorable place. When we returned to the ship, we were surprised to find an invitation to dine with the Captain (only 9 of the 300 passengers were thus honored). I was dreading it, but the evening turned out very nicely. The wine flowed freely throughout and Captain Romeros is a very personable gentleman. We also got impeccable service!

    Our next stop was the largest of the Greek Islands, Crete, where we enrolled on a tour of Knossos (Photo #9), the ruins of the ancient palace of King Minos, ruler of the Minoan civilization (2000 - 1450 BC). The palace was also reputed to house the labyrinthine chambers which were home to the legendary Minotaur, half-man, half-beast, who ate humans. The Greek legend surrounding the slaying of the Minotaur by Theseus, with help from King Minos' daughter, Ariadne, is fascinating.

    Knossos was first excavated by Sir Arthur Evans, an Englishman, in 1900. Evans restored some of the palace and has been much criticized by archaeologists because of it. However, I feel that it makes the palace "come alive" and adds richness to the experience.

    The Minoans were very resourceful -- they had indoor plumbing, and a system of clay pipes used to transport water to the palace from a mountain 10 kilometers away. The columns holding up the walls were made from the trunks of trees, and were wider on top and narrower on the bottom, because the trees were used upside down -- they thought the "green" wood would lose its moisture faster in this position, and they were obviously right.

    There are huge clay cisterns in the chambers, which held water, olive oil, etc., and the chambers of the King and Queen are decorated with beautiful, colorful frescoes. (the originals are housed in the Archaeological Museum in Heraklion, which we also visited.

    Unfortunately, the destruction of the Palace of Knossos by an earthquake and fire in 1450 BC also marked the end of the Minoan civilization. The event which lead to this destruction was the eruption (in that year) of the volcanic island of Santorini. Archaeologists are convinced that accompanying earthquakes caused the ignition of casks of olive oil which burned much of the palace (some wood from the palace is charred), and a tidal wave resulting from the eruption drowned all the Minoans. Some scientists believe that the legend of the lost city of Atlantis is based on these events.

    That same afternoon, we sailed to Santorini, the most beautiful, most unforgettable of the Greek Isles. From the moment the cruise ship entered the caldera, all were on deck to witness the breathtaking view. Striking, pure-white villages spill over steep cliffs of dark, volcanic rock, and look out over the caldera of an extinct volcano far (over 1000 feet) below, which has been filled in with Aegean Sea -- an incredible scene (Photo #8)!

    We took the funicular up to the village of Fira/Thira (Photo #7)(visitors can also take donkey rides up or walk). The white-washed houses and other buildings are connected by labyrinthine alleys, lined with hundreds of shops and restaurants. But the view is the thing!  Looking down or looking up is positively breathtaking. This is certainly one of the most picturesque spots on earth!

    This was the end of our cruise. From here we sailed back to Piraeus, then to the airport for our short flight to Istanbul. We were met at the airport by Khan, our private guide, and his driver, and taken to our hotel, the Germir Palas, a very tastefully-decorated, elegant hotel, just off Taksim Square, one of the major squares of the city, and near the beginning of Istiklal Caddesi, the major, pedestrian-only thoroughfare in the Beyoglu section Istanbul.

    We began our sightseeing at Aya (Hagia) Sofia (Photo #6), a church, turned mosque, turned museum, and one of the most important and largest churches in the world. It possessed the largest dome in the world until the construction of St Peter's in Vatican City. Aya Sofia was built from 532 - 537 AD. The artwork in the interior of the church was covered up when it became a mosque, but the mosaics are currently being restored to their original splendor.

    From here we walked to Topkapi Palace (Photo #4), residence of the Sultans from the 1400's to the 19 century. The Treasury displays unbelievable wealth in gold and jewels, including an 86-carat diamond, huge emeralds, etc. We also saw the kitchen which contains a huge collection of Chinese porcelain.

    Khan provided a detailed account of Turkish history which enriched our appreciation of these sights. Next we walked to the Hippodrome, the ancient location of Roman chariot races, which also contains several Egyptian obelisks, one dating back to 1500 BC, as well as a relic from the Delphic Oracle/Temple of Apollo.

    Next to the Hippodrome is the Blue Mosque (Photo #5), described in many places as the most beautiful mosque in the world. It is called the Blue Mosque because the interior is covered with blue tiles and mosaics. It is truly spectacular. We actually had to wait to go in for about a half hour because we arrived just at the time of prayer service. After prayers, we entered the mosque. We had to remove our shoes and Lee had to cover her head. Our first experience in a mosque was enlightening. The floors have rugs and lights hang from the ceiling by wires. The mihrab is gold; the interior is huge (it holds 2000 people); and it is one of only two mosques in the world with six minarets (the other is in Mecca).  

    We ate Turkish food that evening at Haci Abdullah (a restaurant I researched which Khan concurred with). Food is displayed in cases and patrons simply point at what they want and it is served to them. We tried many items and all were good.

    Our last full day in Istanbul began with a nice continental breakfast at the hotel -- similar to European hotel breakfasts except that veggies, such as tomatoes and olives, replace the fruit that is usually served in Europe. We met Khan at about 9 AM and headed for the Egyptian (Spice) Market (Photo #1) where we were fascinated by the variety and quantity of spices, nuts, etc. which are sold by the kilogram. There were mounds and mounds of saffron, curry, and other exotics.

   Then we crossed the street to the Golden Horn where we boarded our Bosporus Cruise. We traveled about 20 miles up the Bosporus almost to the Black Sea (we could see the dark waters just ahead). Here we met our driver who whisked us south along the Asian side of the strait to the Beylerbeyi Palace (Photo #3), the summer palace of the sultans during the 19th century. We toured the mansion in little booties (so we wouldn't soil the carpets) and marveled at the exquisite woodwork, chandeliers, etc.

    Returning to the city, we went to our last attraction, the Grand (Covered) Bazaar (Photo #2), the ultimate shopping place, the world's largest mall, with over 3,000 shops selling just about everything imaginable. There are actually "streets" of jewelry stores, rug shops, ceramics, etc. We bargained for and bought much more than we needed but it was fun.

    We said goodbye to Khan at about 5 PM. After dinner we walked in the midst of a demonstration commemorating "Children's Day" and the Anniversary of the First Parliament, where people were holding Turkish flags, singing, etc. We tried to look nondescript but it was impossible. Lee was frightened since the Embassy had warned us to avoid demonstrations and celebrations. But we obviously survived the experience.

     Our grand trip of the year was to Hawaii. We flew into Honolulu and immediately boarded another flight to Maui, second largest of the islands. It is dominated by two volcanoes, Haleakala (Photo #1)to the east, and Pu'u Kukui to the west. We picked up our car and drove to the hotel, which has a great view of of the volcano. We crashed immediately after dinner because of our long flight.

    The next morning we set out for Haleakala National Park. We headed for the summit (10,000 feet) on the long (22 miles) and winding park road. Once at the top, the vista was truly other-worldly -- the crater was totally barren, covered in red, brown, and black sand, with several small cinder cones rising up within it. I found it stunningly beautiful! We were also impressed with the Silversword plant, with its striking silver lance-shaped leaves and its incredible flower spike which can be 6 feet tall or more. It only grows here on the summit of Haleakala.

   We attended a Ranger talk on the history of the volcano, then walked the Sliding Sands Trail which takes visitors down into the crater. As we descended, we walked several other trails along the mountainside. There were many groups of bikers speeding down the mountain (a popular activity on Haleakala).

   Our next stop was the Iao Valley, a sacred place to Hawaiians, which has both a religious history (this was a place to worship the Gods of Agriculture to insure a bountiful harvest) and a military history (here Kamehameha defeated the Mauians in his ultimately successful bid to unite all the islands). We climbed the 133 steps up to the Valley Viewpoint where the observation area focused on the Iao Needle (Photo #2), a vertical plug of rock detached from the neighboring ridge.

   That evening, we had reservations for the Old Lahaina Luau (Photo #3), the most popular and reputedly the best luau in the islands. The town of Lahaina is the old provincial capital of the islands and is a quaint old town with charming, Western-style buildings and many shops.  The luau itself was certainly worth the steep admission price ($79.00 per person in 2003).  The buffet which featured oven-roasted pig, Mahi-mahi, Hawaiian Chicken, Pulehu Steak, and poi, the traditional paste made from the root of the Taro plantm was very good. The entertainment was fantastic -- beautiful, young, energetic Hawaiians doing hulas and various other Polynesian dances, relating the history of the islands. Add to this an open bar all evening and a beautiful, clear, warm night along the beach and you can understand how magical these islands can be.

   Our last day in Maui was spent primarily on the Road to Hana (Photo #4), a 50 mile or so drive along the northwestern coast. It is celebrated as the most scenic drive in the islands, and winds through over 600 hairpin turns and numerous (59) one-lane bridges. The are various stops along the way. We checked out many waterfalls, several nature-walks, some vistas, and a few beaches. Our favorite stop was at Wai'anapanapa State Park (Photo #5), an absolutely gorgeous piece of rugged coastline with several offshore arches, a lava-tube cave, and the most beautiful teal-colored water.

   On the way back (the road is a one-way excursion -- you must return the way you came) we stopped for a bit at Hookipa Beach Park, one of the best wind-surfing beaches in the world. We watched them for a while, then returned to Lahaina to browse the shops before our great dinner at Pacific-O, where the service was impeccable, the food beautifully prepared, and the view from our waterside, outdoor table, was spectacular.

    We left Maui and, unfortunately, had to fly back to Honolulu in order to get to the Big Island, the island of Hawai'i. We landed in Hilo, picked up our car, and then drove around the edge of the island, first north to Wailea, then west, then south to Kailua-Kona, to reach our hotel. The traffic near Kona was horrendous!

    The next morning we set out for Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The Visitor Center provides a film about the park and Rangers are available to offer details about the current lava flow. The Rangers were very discouraging to people who want to see lava flowing, citing the dangers and accidents from the past. However, I was not to be denied.

    We drove the Crater Rim Drive, stopping at several overlooks and trails, in particular, the Thurston Lava Tube Trail (Photo #6) which takes visitors into an old lava tube.

    Then we took the Chain of Craters Road (Photo #7)down toward the shore and the current lava flow. The Ranger a the station at the end of the road also attempted to discourage people from walking out onto the lava field. Lee walked a short distance, then turned back, but I persisted -- when will I ever have the opportunity to see flowing lava again in my life? The walk was long (over 2.5 miles) and difficult (terrain is very uneven) and there was no real trail. Basically, I just walked until I saw some people stopped, then went to investigate. It was awesome!! We were standing on lava which was only a few hours old; we could actually feel the heat below us; a young boy threw a rock at a section of lave and we all watched it open up and molten, hot lava flowed out (Photo #8). Incredible!! This was definitely the highlight of my Hawaii trip!

    On out way back to the hotel, we stopped at Punaluu Beach, a black sand beach where we admired the scenery and collected a bit of the sand for Sam and David.

    Heading back to Hilo, we took Route 190, which was much more scenic than our first drive. We also stopped at "Tex", a roadside eatery which features a local favorite -- malesadas -- basically a filled doughnut. They were very good.

    Our last interisland flight took us back to Honululu, where we would complete our vacation with a full week at the Marriott on Waikiki Beach. After check-in, we strolled along the beach, soaking up the tropical ambience.

    The next morning we headed for Diamond Head State Park, at the eastern end of Waikiki, and climbed to the summit of the crater, up 271 stairs, through 2 tunnels, and down a treacherous path (bring a flashlight if you go, since the tunnels are long and very dark). The view from the summit is breathtaking(Photo #11)!

    We then took a nostalgic ride to Wahiewa, where Lee lived when she first got married -- we not only found the street, but also the rooming house, which seemed to her as if it hadn't changed in over 40 years. On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at the Dole Plantation Store where we enjoyed a Dole Whip and browsed. We ended this wonderful day with a fantastic dinner at "House Without a Key", a restaurant in the Halekalani Hotel (a place associated with the Charlie Chan Mysteries. The view of Diamond Head from the dining room terrace is positively stunning!

    The next day, July 4th, was our scheduled trip to Pearl Harbor, the naval base where the US was attacked, by surprise, by Japanese forces on December 7, 1941, spearheading our entry into World War II. We arrived at the Visitor Center just prior to its opening, at 7:30 AM. The line was long but it moved fairly fast (important note -- bags of any kind are not allowed at the USS Arizona Memorial (Photo #12), so leaves pocketbooks and camera bags in the car prior to getting in line).  The National Park Service introductory film is great -- archival footage of the attack from both the American and Japanese perspective. There was not a dry eye in the theater by the time it was over. The emotion continues after the short boat ride to the Memorial, when visitors see the hull of the Arizona, still seeping oil, and the list of names on the walls. The Memorial straddles the wreck. Frequent ceremonies involve dropping flowers into the water and the silence (visitors are asked to respect the memories of these soldiers by being very quiet) is also extremely moving.

     We then headed out of the city, along the Likelike Highway and the Pali, stopping at the overlook to try to appreciate the significance of this place in Hawaiian history (it was the scene of the final major battle in the war for unification of the islands). We continued on toward the North Shore, where we admired Sunset Beach and Waimea Bay, even though there was no surf so few surfers.

    That evening we watched fireworks from our hotel room lanai -- it was magical!

    Our next day was very low-key. We spent the morning at the Stadium Flea Market -- a good place to find those obligatory souvenirs at much lower prices. The market takes place on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays, from 6:30 to 3. Our dining experience this evening was truly special. We ate at Bali By the Sea (Photo #9), in the Hilton Hawaiian Village. Service was impeccable, food was absolutely delicious (we both had the signature dish -- Macadamia-nut encrusted Opakaka) and the setting and view were stupendous. Our meal was finished with complimentary truffles, presented on a Diamondhead-shaped chocolate and billowing with white smoke as the volcano were erupting -- very special!

     We beached it the next day. The most memorable part of the day was Gary's walk up to the Honahona Room (Photo #10), at the top of the Sheraton Royal Hawaiian. The huge windows behind the bar look out over all of Waikiki and on to Diamond Head -- to die for!

     The next morning we headed southeast toward Hanauma Bay (Photo #13). This sheltered bay, the eroded crater of an ancient volcano, is home to numerous, colorful, tropical fish and is one of the most famous snorkeling areas in the world. After an introductory film (about safety and conservation), we rented gear and, along with hundreds of others, enjoyed seeing these beautiful fish only a few feet from shore.

     After a drive to Makapuu Point and several other areas, we returned to Honolulu for dinner. Tonight we decided to try something other than fish, so we went to an Italian restaurant, Caffe Sistina. It turned out to be a great choice. Lee and I both had veal dishes and they were superb. The staff was friendly and attentive, and we were amazed at how many diners found this place on a Monday night.

    On our last full day in Hawaii, we drove out to the Polynesian Cultural Center, a sort of theme park focused around the various Polynesian islands and their unique cultures. On the way, we stopped at the Byodo-In Temple (Photo #14) and enjoyed the tranquility and spirituality of the site.

    The Polynesian Cultural Center is all about entertainment. We watched the parade of canoes (Photo #15), different colors representing different islands, on which young, enthusiastic Polynesians in colorful, traditional costumes danced their native dances. The groups included Samoa, Tahiti, Fiji, Hawaii, Tonga, and Maori (New Zealand).

    Following the parade, we wandered through the rest of the park, where each culture has its own area, complete with authentic buildings and demonstrations. Samoa taught us how to open a coconut; Lee tried the Hula in the Hawaiian village; I threw spears at mounted coconuts in Fiji; and I took part in a pig hunt in the Marquesas.

    The evening show, called Horizons, was very entertaining, with elaborate costumes and energetic dancing. Again, each of the cultures was represented. All in all, it was a worthwhile experience although extremely commercialized. We also found out that the operation is run by the Mormon church, which makes us wonder about the authenticity.

    In the morning, before our afternoon flight, we went to the government area of downtown to see the Iolani Palace (Photo #16), America's only royal palace, the Statue of King Kamehameha, and the State Capitol Building, with its unusual architecture.  

    

 

      Lessons learned:

             1. Hawaii allowed us to experience one of the more depressing things about travel. When you return to an area, it is impossible not to notice the changes that have taken place. The particular attraction which left this negative impression was Hanauma Bay. When I was here previously, I remember an incredible number and variety of fish. The snorkeling was still great, but it does not compare with the earlier experience -- the quality of the area has diminished considerably, and this is, of course, due to its popularity. Herein lies the paradox. As tourists discover a "gem" of a place, more tourists come and the sight gets overused and exploited.   Remedy -- Careful management is obviously necessary, but how careful can you be without discouraging people from coming. For instance, Hanauma Bay now requires visitors to view a conservation film, and they limit the number of people on the beach at any one time.

    

     We did a Marriott exchange for this April school vacation trip to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. This well-known beach resort is located on the west coast of Mexico, in what is called the "Mexican Riviera". Our resort was positively fantastic, right on the beach and with many amenities. This was a "Lee" vacation -- relaxation was the focus, with a minimum of running around. We actually spent most of our time at the pool, reading and people-watching. The resort even had a gym which we frequented nearly every morning. It is located in Marina Vallarta, a section of the city a few miles north of the Old Town.

    We did spend several days in the tourist area, taking a cab to get there and back (I have heard numerous stories about the dangers of driving in Mexico, although I think they may be exaggerated). The Old Town is very pleasant to walk, with many shops and restaurants, and several interesting things to see. We enjoyed walking the Malecon, the wooden boardwalk along the water, which is punctuated with quite a few interesting and attractive sculptures. The most photographed one is the Seahorse Sculpture -- it has become a symbol of the city.

    Other notable sights in the city include Gringo Gulch, a hilly neighborhood to the east of town, named for the many US expatriates who settled here in the 1950's and 1960's. This is also the location of the famous "love bridge" which was built to connect Elizabeth Taylor's house, Casa Kimberley, with the home of Richard Burton, with whom she had an affair during the filming of the movie, The Night of the Iguana.

    Rising above the Old Town is the distinctive bell tower of the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, the main church in town. The roof of the tower  was made to look like a crown and can be seen from anywhere in the Old Town.

 

      Lessons learned:

            Things are very different when you do not have your own transportation. You must rely on taxis or public transport which requires some planning, etc. There are some places where it makes sense not to drive!

    

      We were dying to get away from winter, but had no plans till April, so, last minute, I tried to book a trip to Jamaica (during the school vacation). We were able to get out on a Sunday, then return on Thursday. We found a hotel/resort in Ocho Rios online for a reasonable price, and booked it. We were immediately disappointed when we arrived, since the resort was old and somewhat run down, but we decided to stick it out.

     On Monday, we went down to the beach (thankfully our hotel was right on the beach). The beach was nice, but, almost immediately after we arrived, we were accosted by a local who was trying to sell us various excursions. We finally told him, maybe tomorrow, that we wanted to enjoy the beach, so he left. Later that day, we went to a rental car agency in town (we had made a reservation before arriving) and picked up our car. Driving is on the left in Jamaica, just like England. We took a short drive to Dunn's River Falls, a rather unique and very pleasant place where visitors can pay a fee to walk, climb, and stumble up a lengthy series of cascades. The rocks are an unusual shade of light, yellowish brown and the water is cool and refreshing. You can even hire a guide to lead you up the falls.

    We then traveled westward to Montego Bay where we checked out the beach and the community (wishing we had stayed here, since the resorts looked much nicer) and then returned to Ocho Rios.

    Before returning to our hotel, we drove through another local oddity, Fern Gully, which was like a tunnel of dense foliage which extends over the winding roadway, reduces light considerably and creates a rather eerie experience. It also is only a few miles outside of town.

    The next day we took our longest excursion, a hair-raising ride on narrow, winding, mountain roads (the condition of the roads in Jamaica is horrible, with numerous pot holes, wash outs, etc) to the capital, Kingston. All the guidebooks maintain that this is essential Jamaica. We found it unpleasant, unattractive, seedy and a colossal waste of time. The only redeeming feature of this "scenic drive" was our introduction to Blue Mountain Coffee, which we truly enjoyed and which was the only item we brought back from Jamaica.

    On Wednesday, we were back on the beach, trying to finally rid ourselves of those winter doldrums. We were approached again by our enterprising friend, but again we put him off by promising tomorrow, knowing full well that we would be leaving in the  morning to return home.

 

     Lessons learned:

            1. Last minute trips are risky, in the sense that you probably do not do the normal amount of research, and you can't be picky about flights or accomodations, since the good places have already been booked.     Remedy: Do not take last-minute trips or find places that are not "in season" or are not as popular.

            2. Unfortunately, there are many places around the world which are somewhat dangerous to visit. We were warned, prior to this trip, that walking at night in the town of Ocho Rios may not be safe. We did, one evening, take a short walk into town, to the local gathering place, but only because I felt certain that my size would discourage anyone from bothering us. We were looked at a bit strangely, but did not have a problem.

     Here was a new angle on European trips!  We traveled with another couple (Marie & Ed). They had never been to Europe before so Lee & I were the tour leaders. Since we had never been to Spain, ourselves, this may have been more like "the blind leading the blind". We landed in Madrid, picked up our car, and proceeded to our hotel. Ed did a great job of navigating (thankfully we had a good map this time) and we found our hotel with a minumum of stress. After freshening up a bit, we did a walking tour of the area closest to our accomodations, known as Hapsburg Madrid. We began at the Palacio Real (Royal Palace) (Photo #2), the King's residence in the city. It is a spectacular chateau in the tradition of Versailles or Buckingham Palace although significantly smaller. Rooms were opulent with ceiling frescoes, sculptures, tapestries, and beautiful furniture.

    Next we headed for the Plaza Mayor (Photo #1), admiring some interesting architecture along the way. The Plaza Mayor is certainly reminiscent of some of Europe's most elegant squares. It is huge, surrounded by majestic apartments, numerous shops, and outdoor restaurants, and obviously one of the chief gathering places in the city. Another gathering place, the Puerta del Sol, Madrid's version of Times Square, was next on our agenda, but mainly to call home.  

    The next morning, we left Madrid for our first venture into the countryside. Our first stop was El Escorial (Photo #4), a summer palace for the Kings of Spain since 1564. We opted for the guided tour and Jose was extremely informative. We were particularly impressed by the ornate woodwork, much of it gifts from countries around the world, and the crypts (Pantheons) of the kings and their families. We even witnessed a wedding taking place in the chapel.

    From here, we drove to Valle de los Caidos (Valley of the Fallen) (Photo #8), a huge, stone crucifix, erected as a monument to all those who gave their lives defending Spain. Beneath the monument is a basilica which, among others, contains the grave of the dictator Generalissimo Franco. Armed guards patrol nearby to prevent people from spitting on the gravesite (a measure of his legacy?). 

    Then we went further northwest to the beautiful town of Segovia. There are three significant attractions in the city, although we would maintain that the city itself is the major attraction. These include the still-in-use-after-almost-2,000-years Roman Aqueduct (Photo #11). Its condition is amazing, especially considering that no mortar was used in its construction.

    At the opposite end of town is the famous Alcazar (Photo #12), Segovia's majestic castle, perched at the top of a cliff overlooking the broad expansive countryside below. Its crenulated walls are punctuated by pointed towers and turrets. The interior is Moorish in design (our first glimspe of this style of architecture which is so pervasive in the western part of Spain), with some beautiful rooms.

    In the center of town is Segovia's Plaza Mayor, not as large or elegant as Madrid's but lovely and very conducive for people-watching. Ed and I spent some time nursing "una cervesa" (a beer) while the girls wandered.  We also explored the gorgeous Cathedral (Photo #10)which dominates one side of the square.  

    Our next day was spent completing our walking tour of Madrid. We spent a short while at El Rastro, the city's famous outdoor market. It was great for people-watching but the goods were mostly junk. Bourbon Madrid is the eastern side of the city. It includes the famous Prado Museum (Photos 3 & 6), one of the world's best, and the Reina Sofia, its companion museum which contains Picasso's Guernica, his most famous painting. Nearby, we strolled through Retiro Park and marveled at the beautiful statue in the center of the busy Plaza de Cibeles (Photo #5), and also at the ornate Post Office which occupies one end of the square.

    Our evening dinner was at the world-famous Casa Botin (Photo #7), Hemingway's favorite restaurant in the world and supposedly the world's oldest. The food was fantastic and the cave-like ambience was also great -- we even got a tour of the wine cellar!

    Our next excursion took us to Avila, a Medieval, walled city which is also famous as the home of St Theresa. We walked the incredibly well-preserved walls (photo #13), visited the Cathedral and wandered the tiny streets and alleyways. From here, we traveled further west to the charming city of Salamanca, whose Plaza Mayor (Photo #14) is as regal and elegant as Madrid's. We also strolled by the House of Shells, and the two Cathedrals, Old & New.

    When we returned to Madrid, we headed for the Plaza de Toros de la Ventas, Madrid's famous  bullring. Here we sampled the local fascination with a "sport" that we all (especially the girls) found revolting. The poor bulls have no chance whatsoever, since the matador does not enter the ring until the bull has undergone some preparatory events which seem designed to weaken him. We stayed for about half of the program and then left. We were all glad we had seen the performance, even though we would not want to see another.

    We finally left Madrid and traveled south to Cordoba, a walled Moorish town with whitewashed buildings, cobblestone streets and beautiful flower-bedecked courtyards when you peak through the wrought-iron doorways. We arrived late because of a horrendous traffic jam, so it was time for dinner -- "Caballo de Rojo" is a fabulous restaurant with wonderful service and great food! We strolled the streets after dinner to try to walk off the calories.

    The next morning, we headed first for the Mezquita (Photos #15 & 16), Cordoba's famous mosque/church. Construction began on this mosque in 788 AD. It interior is positively breath-taking, with hundreds of red and white striped arches. The Mihrab, the most sacred part of the mosque, has intricate geometric designs. The most unusual aspect of this sight is the presence of a cathedral within the mosque, built after the conquest of the Moors and the unification of Spain in the 1400's. The cathedral itself is gorgeous with beautifully carved mahogany choir stalls and interesting pulpits but its placement inside the mosque is part of the attraction.

   Other sights in Cordoba include the Alcazar de los Reyes Christianos (basically the Royal Castle) which has some Roman mosaics and some of the loveliest formal gardens we have seen thus far, attractively incorporating many varieties of flowers, well-manicured trees and shrubs, along with numerous ponds and fountains. Since the temperature was well over 100 degrees, we welcomed the shade and coolness.