Walking Tour of Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai is Thailand’s second largest city and is located in the northern part of the country. The major tourist attractions are found in the Old City, which is surrounded by a moat, and eastward to the Ping River. Within the moat area are several Wats which should be explored: Wat Chiang Man, the city’s oldest, Wat Chedi Luang, with its Golden Buddha, and Wat Phra Singh, with its Bronze Buddha. Other attractions lie just outside the city.

     My walk begins at the Tha Phae Gate, located at the eastern end of the Old City. The flagstone square here is a gathering place for locals and visitors alike. Walk west on Thanon Rathchadamnoen and turn left onto Thanon Phra Pokklao. Wat Phan Tao, whose teak hall is particularly interesting, is on the right. Walk through the wall behind this temple to find Wat Chedi Luang, once the home of the famous Emerald Buddha, today housed in Wat Phra Kaew, in Bangkok.

     Exit onto Pokklao Road heading south, and turn right onto Thanon Ratchamankha. When you reach Thanon Samlan, turn left. Wat Phuak Hong, with its unusual design, is on the right.

     Now, reverse direction on Thanon Samlan and walk north. Look to the left when you reach Thanon Ratchadamnoen to find Wat Phra Singh, one of the city’s most important shrines. It houses the Lion Buddha and dates to the late 14^th century.

     After your visit, walk eastward on Thanon Ratchadamnoen. Wat Chai Phra Kiat, on your left, contains a large, bronze Buddha. Continue east, and then turn left onto Thanon Ratchaphakhinai. Ahead, on the left, in the northwestern corner of the Old City, is Wat Chiang Mai and the location of two famous Buddhas, the White Emerald Buddha and the Phra Sila Buddha.

     Reverse your steps back to Thanon Ratchadamnoen. On your way, notice Wat Lan Chong, on your left, then turn left to return to Pratu Tha Phae, where your walk began.

     To extend the walk, continue east on Thanon Tha Phae to find Wat Mahawan, on your right, Wat Chetawan, on the left, and Wat Bupparam, on the right. After your exploration of these three interesting and ornate temples, return to your starting location by reversing direction.

               Walking Tour of Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama

Another way to access the Panama Canal is part of a visit to Panama City which is located at the western (southern) terminus of the canal, where it meets the Pacific Ocean. Major tourist attractions in the city include Old Panama, basically the ruins of the 1519 AD city, about 4 miles (7 kilometers) from the current city, and Casco Viejo, the historic, Colonial center of the city of today. Casco Viejo, with its narrow, cobblestone streets and magnificent Colonial buildings, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

            Specific attractions within the city center include the Salon Bolivar, the President’s Palace, San Jose Cathedral, and French Park, built to commemorate the French involvement in the country’s history.

     My walk begins at Plaza de la Independencia, the center of the Old City and location where, on November 3, 1903, independence from Colombia was declared.

     From here, walk north on Calle 6a Este, and then turn right on Avenida Alfano. The Palacio de las Garzas, the country’s presidential palace, is on your right, overlooking Panama Bay.

     Continue east on Avenida Alfano, and then turn right onto Calle 3a Este, past Bolivar Park. Turn left on Av B to find the National Theater, on your right at the point where the road veers south. The sumptuous interior has been totally restored and is certainly worth a look.

     Now, continue to the end of this road and turn left onto Av Central. The ruins of Club de Clases y Tropas are on your left. The infamous General Manuel Noriega spent much time here before it was destroyed in 1989.

     At Paseo las Bovedas turn left and walk atop the sea wall, which provides great views of the bay and the many ships positioning themselves to enter the Panama Canal, to the west.

     The esplanade leads to the Plaza de Francia, dedicated to the thousands of workers who perished during the French attempt to construct the canal. There is also a monument to Carlos Finlay, the doctor who discovered that mosquitoes transmit yellow fever.

     Now walk along the paseo at the western side of the plaza, which leads back toward Casco Viejo. Turn left onto Av A to find the Museo de Arte Religioso Colonial, at the intersection with Calle 3a Este.

     After your visit, continue west on Av A to reach Iglesia de San Jose, location of the famous Golden Altar, miraculously saved during Captain Henry Morgan’s sacking and destruction of the city in 1671.

     Continue west and then turn right on Calle 9a Oueste, past Parque Herrera to Iglesia de la Merced, on your left at Av Central.

     From here, turn right onto Av Central to return to Plaza de la Independencia, where the walking tour began.

             Walking Tour of Vilnius, Lithuania

Vilnius is the capital and largest city of Lithuania, one of the Baltic States which finally became independent when the Soviet Union split up. Its Old Town, Senamiestis, the largest in Europe, a medieval maze of cobblestone streets, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Cathedral Square is a major gathering place. The Cathedral contains the lovely Chapel of St Casimir.  Walk up Castle Hill to the Gediminas Tower for a great view.  The presence of Vilnius University keeps this city forever young.

     My walk begins at Cathedral Square, in the northern part of the largest Old Town in Eastern Europe. At some point in your exploration of the square, look for a very special tile, between the Bell Tower and the Cathedral. This tile contains the word, “stebuklas,” which means “miracle” and recalls the day in 1989 when over two million Estonians, Latvians, and Lithuanians made a human chain from here to Tallinn, in protest of Soviet rule. The present Cathedral dates to the 15^th century, with numerous restorations since that time. The neo-Classical structure has prominent, white-brass statues of Sts Helene, Stanislav, and Casimir, on its roof. Be sure to examine the lovely Chapel of St Casimir, which contains his silver coffin. Also on the square is a Statue of Grand Duke Gediminas, the city’s founder.

     Exit the square from behind the Cathedral and take the small path to the top of Gediminas Hill, for great views of the city below (Gediminas Tower provides even more spectacular views). Then return to the Cathedral and walk north on Vrubieskio, and then right on Arsenalo gatve to find the Castle Museum and the Applied Arts Museum.

     Now head back to Cathedral and then leave the square from its southeastern corner (near the Grand Duke’s Statue), taking Pilies gatve south into Old Town. Vilnius University occupies an entire block, on your right. Walk in and explore the many courtyards, interconnected via passageways. Be sure to find St John’s Church, a beautiful church with a tall bell tower, in one of the courtyards.

     Exit the west and turn right onto Universiteto, which leads to Daukauto Square. Look for the President’s Palace, facing the square from the south. It was used by Napoleon when he was on his way to Moscow. Now, reverse direction on Universiteto, then turn right on Dominikonu gatve to reach the Church of the Holy Spirit, with its interior of gold and white.

     Next, turn left onto Vokieciu gatve, which leads to Town Hall Square (Rotuses aikste). The former Town Hall is now the Artist’s Palace, and sits in the middle of the square. To the north is the Church of St Nicholas, the city’s oldest (1320 AD), and to the east is St Casimir’s church, the oldest Baroque church in the city. It dates to 1604 AD.

     Now, walk south on Ausros Vartu gatve, one of Vilnius’ most charming streets. On the right is an archway, known as the Basilian Gates, denoting the entrance to a decaying monastery. On the left are the Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit, which displays the bodies of three 14^th century martyrs, and St Teresa’s Church, with its ornate Baroque interior.

     Continuing south on Ausros Vartu, you will reach the Gates of Dawn, the only original city gate still standing. Climb the staircase to a small chapel which contains the Icon of the Virgin, a relic with supposed miraculous powers and a major pilgrimage site for Eastern European Catholics.

     Pass through the gate and turn left onto Bazilijonu gatve, and then left along the city walls, on Sv. Dvasios gatve, then turn left and a quick right onto Boksto gatve, as you continue northward.

     Next, turn right on Sv. Kasimiero gatve and then left on Maironio gatve, which will take you to St Michael’s Church, on the left, and St Anne’s Church, on the right, a 16^th century architectural gem.

     When you finish here, continue north on Maironio and then turn left on B. Radvilaites gatve, which brings you just south of Cathedral Square, where your walk began.

               Walking Tour of Riga, Latvia

Riga, capital of Latvia, another of the Baltic States recently separated from the Soviet Union, has a pleasant, Medieval, Old Town (Vecriga), which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While you are strolling along the maze of streets, be sure to find Dome Square, with its Cathedral Church of Riga. Nearby is St Peter’s Church, whose spire can be climbed for a great view of the city. While in Riga, admire the architecture in the Art Nouveau District, within walking distance of Vecriga. 

      My walk begins at Doma Laukums, Cathedral Square, located near the center of Riga’s Old Town, known as Vecriga. The church on the square, Rigas Doms, is the largest in the Baltics and dates to 1211 AD. Check out the huge organ and some of the stonework. Across Jauniela, near the southern end of the church property, is Pie Kristapa, whose golden façade is typical of the architecture of Old Riga.

     Exit the square at the north by taking a left onto Pils iela, which leads to Riga Castle and Castle Square. The castle was built in1330. From here, walk east on Daugavas Gate, and then left onto 11 Novembra Krastmala, which runs alongside the Daugava River. When you reach the Akmens Bridge, walk partially across the bridge to get an excellent view of Old Riga and of the castle.

     Then reverse direction and continue north on Kalku iela. The Latvian Riflemen Statue, on the right, recalls the Soviet period in Latvian history, in an ominous dark-red color. Nearby is the Occupation Museum, which documents this same time period. These sights are located on Town Hall Square, which is also occupied by one of the city’s most stunning architectural gems, the House of Blackheads. The present building, however, is a reconstruction of the original, from 1344 AD, which was completely destroyed. Also on the square is Riga’s Town Hall and a Statue of Roland, a medieval hero.

     To the east, across Kungu iela, is St Peter’s Church, an important Gothic church which affords the visitor a wonderful view from its spire observation area, over 200 feet in the air.

     Now, turn left on Skarnu, then Skunu iela, and then right on Amatu iela. The Great Guildhouse is on the right, while the Small Guild is on the left. Turn right on Maistaru iela, along Philharmonic Square, and then on Kalku iela, which becomes Brivibas and leads to the Freedom Monument. It was erected in 1935 but, in the 1980’s, became the symbol of the liberation from Communism.

     Next, reverse direction on Brivibas, and then turn right onto Basteja Bulvaris, then left on Tornu iela. The Powder Tower, the only remaining tower from the Old Town’s fortifications, is on your left. Continue west to find the Swedish Gate, the only surviving medieval entryway.

     Turn left when you reach Jekaba iela. Latvia’s Parliament Building is on your right and St Jacob’s Cathedral is just beyond it. This Roman Catholic church was built in 1225 AD. Jekaba iela ends at Cathedral Square, where your walk began.

               Walking Tour of Tallinn, Estonia

Talinn, Estonia, another Baltic gem and World Heritage Site, has an extremely lovely and pleasant-to-walk Old Town, known as All-Linn.  Spend some time drinking beer in Raekoja Plats, a square with numerous cafes, and check out the Town Hall, the oldest in Europe.  Also, be sure to climb the tower of St Olaf’s Church for a great view of the city.

     My walk begins at the center of activity in Vanillin (the Estonian name for the Old City), Raekoja Plats (Town Hall Square). It sits in the center of the Old City, the walled, medieval heart of the country. The Gothic Town Hall, itself, is Europe’s oldest, dating to about 1375 AD. You can climb the tower for views of Vanalinn. A pharmacy (Raepteek), at the northern end of the square, has occupied this spot since the early 15^th century.

     Exit the square next to the pharmacy, on Saiakang, which leads to Puhavaimee Kirik (The Church of the Holy Spirit), a fascinating 13^th century Gothic structure, whose clock is the oldest in the country. The interior deserves a look as well, especially the altarpiece and pulpit.

     Turn right on Pikk, an interesting street lined with old guild houses. Now turn left on Vaimu, and then right on Lai, to reach another city landmark, St Olaf Oleviste Church and Tower. Views from the top of the tower were so good that the Russian KGB performed surveillance of the city from here.

     Continue north from the church and then turn left on Tolli tnv, and left again on Laboratooriumi (which becomes Gumnassiumi), which runs alongside the city’s well-preserved, medieval walls. As you pass the intersection with Aida, detour through a small passageway in the wall to get a great picture of the towers from outside the Old Town. Then return and continue south, where there is an opportunity to climb one of the towers and to walk the walls a bit.

     Now, continue to walk south, along Vaike-Kloostri, then Nunne, then Rataskaevi, and then Ruutii, to reach St Nicholas Church. After your visit, retrace your steps and then turn left onto Luhike jalg, which winds its way to Upper Town. Toomea.

     Here you will find Castle Square (Lossi Plats) around which are several notable buildings. Toomea Castle is now home to the Estonian Parliament. Also on the square is the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It was a much later addition to the scene, courtesy of the Russian occupation.

     Several of the original towers, part of the medieval fortifications, are still accessible here. The most noteworthy is Pikk Hermann, at the southwest corner of the castle.

     Now follow Toom-Kooli north to visit Toomkirik, the Lutheran Church, a domed structure, built in 1233 AD. Note the beautiful carved tombs inside.

     Then, return to Lossi Plats via Toom-Kooli and take Toompea south, then turn left onto Komandandi tee, where you can stop at Kiek-in-de-Kok Tower, where medieval peeping-toms could look into the homes of Lower Town.

     At the end of this road, turn sharply left and reenter Vanalinn on Harju, which becomes Kullassepa, returning you to Town Hall Square, where the walking tour began.

              Walking Tour of Strasbourg, France

In the vicinity of the Alsace is the city of Strasbourg, one of Europe’s most elegant cities.  It was founded in 12 A.D. by the son of Augustus.  The most famous sight in the city is its beautiful pink-limestone Cathedral, which dates from the 12th century.  Its Gothic spire is one of Christianity’s highest.  Inside the cathedral, watch at 12:30 PM for the elaborate Astronomical Clock, complete with moving Apostles and angels, to strike noon!!  There are less elaborate displays at the quarter-hours. Pet the tiny carved dog on the pulpit for good luck. 

     My walk begins at Cathedral Square, situated near the southern end of the Grande Ile, an island which constitutes Old Strasbourg. On the square is the city’s famous Notre Dame Cathedral. This Gothic edifice of rose-red sandstone dates to the 12^th century, and its spire offers fantastic views of the city and beyond. The Astronomical Clock, near the southern entrance, is an attraction of itself, displaying its “passion play” at 12:30 PM each day. The museum across the square, Musee de l’Oeuvre Notre Dame is also worth a look.

     The adjoining square, Place du Chateau, contains the elegant Palais Rohan, whose interior is magnificent, and includes several other museums.

     From here, continue south to the river, and turn right along Quai des Bateliers. The names of the docks change as you walk west (check out the Old Customs House as you walk by), then continue from Quai Finkwiller to Rue Finkwiller, and then turn right to reach the Ponts Couverts, the Covered Bridges, which were once part of the city’s medieval fortifications.

     Just west of the bridges is the Vauban Dam, a grass-roofed structure that dates to 1682. Climb to its terrace for exceptional views. Then, backtrack to the covered bridges and cross the river.

     Next, explore the area to the right after you cross the river. This part of the city is known as Petite France and is the most charming and interesting area to walk. It is a quintessential Alsatian village, with its meticulously-maintained half-timbered houses, flower boxes, tiny, narrow streets, and canals.

     When you have completed your exploration, exit to the east and turn right on Rue du Bains-aux-Plantes, which winds its way to the Place Gutenberg. Note the Renaissance-style Chamber of Commerce building.

     Now, turn right onto Rue du Vieux Marche aux Poissons, then left on Rue Merciere, which leads back to Cathedral Square, where you started.

               Walking Tour of Monaco Ville

Monaco, a tiny principality on the French Riviera, is world-famous for its casino (Monte Carlo) and for its royalty and wealthy visitors.  The entire area is positively spotless and totally geared for tourism, especially involving the rich and famous.  The view from the park in front of the casino, looking toward the casino, with its beautiful flowers, fountains, and flags, is picture-perfect. 

            Inside the casino, the elegance is pervasive, making this an extremely comfortable place to lose money.  Check out the Hotel de Paris, right next door, for a further glimpse into the lifestyles of the pampered and catered-to.

            Walk down to the harbor to drool at perhaps the most expensive fleet of yachts in the world.

     My walk begins in front of the iconic Monte Carlo Casino, probably the most famous gambling establishment in the entire world. However, save your Euros until after your walk. The casino is flanked by the Hotel de Paris, to the south, and the Café de Paris, to the north. Attached to the casino is the Opera de Monte Carlo, another sumptuous venue.

     Before leaving the area, stroll the adorable Place du Casino, with its lovely fountains and beautifully landscaped walkways.

     Now exit the square on Avenue de Monte Carlo (between the casino and the hotel), which becomes Avenue d’Ostende, then bear left onto Boulevard Albert 1er. Ahead, on your right, is a life which will bring you to the Place d’Armes. From here, you can climb the Rampe Major to reach the Place du Palais, and the Palais Princier, home of the reigning Grimali family since the late 13^th century. Take the guided tour if the palace is open to visitors. A Changing of the Guard Ceremony is held in front of the entrance at 11:55 AM. The Napoleonic Museum occupies a wing of the residence and can be visited even if the palace is closed.

     After your visit, exit the square on Rue Bellando de Castro which leads to Avenue Saint-Martin and the Immaculate Conception Cathedral, which contains the tombs of Prince Rainier III and Grace Kelly. Further along the street is the Musee Oceanographique, clinging precariously to the cliff. Jacques Cousteau collected many of the museum’s specimens. Marvel at the incredible Aquarium, which displays hundreds of species.

     From here, continue east on Avenue Saint-Martin which swings around the point to become Avenue de la Porte Nueve. Turn right when you reach Prince-Pierre-de-Monaco, which merges with Boulevard Rainier III. Take the Escalier du Castelleretto, ahead on the left, to reach Boulevard de Belgique, and turn right, looking for Escalier Gabriel Arnoux, which will carry you to the Boulevard des Jardin-Exotique. Turn left to reach the Botanical Gardens, a lovely place to stroll and relax, before proceeding on the walk.

     When you have completed your exploration of the tropical flora, retrace your steps on Boulevard des Jardin-Exotique, and turn right on Boulevard de Suisse. Then take the Escalier du Gaumates to Avenue de la Costa. Follow this road to the right and it will soon merge with Avenue d’Ostende, which leads back to Place du Casino, where the walk began.

              Walking Tour of Lyon, France

Lyon, France, bills itself as the “gastronomic capital of France” but it has much more than good food to offer the tourist. There are three basic areas of the city which are the domain of the traveler.

            Fourviere Hill is the location of the white-domed Notre Dame Basilica.  The inside is covered with mosaics depicting the events in Mary’s life. The Lower Church is dedicated to St Joseph and is considerably less elaborate. Note the golden statue of the virgin outside the church.

            Vieux Lyon (the Old Town) has perhaps the largest concentration of Renaissance buildings in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area is noted for its covered pathways (Traboules) which link streets and homes. Entry into this mysterious world is through heavy doors. Unfortunately, only a few of the 300 or so are actually open to the public, but these are worthwhile in that they provide access to several hidden courtyards. The St Jean Cathedral is an interesting combination of Gothic and Romanesque architectural styles since its construction spanned a considerable amount of time.

            Presqu’ile refers to the land between Lyon’s two rivers and is the major shopping district of the city. Place des Terreaux is its vibrant center and contains the City Hall and a famous fountain by Bertholdi (the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty).

     Vieux Lyon, the Old City, is a wonderful place to walk, with its interesting alleyways known as traboules, its cobblestone streets, and Renaissance mansion. Nearby Presq’ile, the more modern city center, contains a number of additional sights for the visitor.

     My walk begins on Presq’ile, the island between the Saone and Rhone Rivers, at Place Terreaux. The focal point of this square is an incredible fountain, designed by Frederic-Auguste Bartholdi, the architect and builder of the Statue of Liberty. The most important buildings on the square are the Town Hall (Hotel de Ville), to the north, and the Museum of Fine Arts, an excellent museum, to the south.

     From here, walk south on Rue President-Herriot, which leads to another notable square, Place Bellecour, where you will find the Tourist Information Office. You can obtain an detailed city map which includes how and where to access the many traboules, passageways which connect parallel streets and which open into lovely courtyards or snake underneath buildings and streets. Also on the square is an impressive equestrian Statue of Louis XIV.

     Exit the square by walking west on Rue Col. Chambonnet, then right along the river on Quai des Celestins, and left, across the river, on the Palace of Justice footbridge, into Vieux Lyon. The elegant Palais de Justice faces you as you cross. Now, turn right on Quai Romain Rolland to #17 and take the traboule behind the door to #9 Rue des Trois Maries. Next, go to #6 Rue des Trois Maries and take the traboule to 27 Rue Saint-Jean. Turn left on Rue Saint-Jean to reach Place Saint-Jean and Lyon’s interesting Cathedral, built over several centuries and containing a mix of architectural styles. Be sure to check out the stained-glass windows of the choir and the Astronomical Clock, which chimes at noon, 2, 3, and 4 PM.

     From here, continue south on Rue Saint-Jean to Place Edouard Commette and take the funicular to the top of Fourviere Hill. Here, you will find, besides the great views, the remains of a Roman settlement, including the Romain Theater and an Odeon. Other relics from Roman times are displayed in the nearby museum. However, the most significant attraction on the hill is the beautiful and enticing Notre Dame Basilica. It is both a symbol and major landmark of the city and must be explored.

     After your visit, walk down the hill on Montee Saint-Barthelemy, and turn right on Montee des Carmes Deschausses to Place Saint-Paul, location of another of Lyon’s major churches.

     Now, take a short detour, part of the way down Rue de la Juviere, to see several Renaissance mansions, the Hotel Patenin and the Hotel Bullioud. Return to the square and take Rue du Docteur Augros down to the river, and turn left on Quai de Bondy. Then, cross the river on Passarelle Saint-Vincent. Continue straight ahead when you reach the shore, and then turn right on Rue Bouteille, and left on Rue Fernand Rey, then right on Rue du Jardin des Plantes, to reach the Botanical Gardens, for a welcome break from the city streets.

     After your respite, continue beyond the gardens, and then turn right onto Rue Terme, and then left on Rue d’Algerie to return to the Place des Terreaux, where your walk began.

              Walking Tour of Kathmandu, Nepal

Katmandu, Nepal, boasts seven (7) UNESCO World Heritage Sites within a 20 kilometer (13 mile) radius. Walking the city is an adventure, since the labyrinthine alleyways and courtyards make getting lost likely.  Numerous temples, shrines and prayer wheels remind the visitor of the pervasive religious culture, and the colors and dress are uniquely Nepalese. The people are mild-mannered and friendly, always ready to help.

      My walk begins in Durbar Square, where the Old Royal Palace (Hanuman Dhoka) sits. Begin your exploration of this important area at its southwestern end, where the street called Maru Tole enters the square. Here you will find the Kasthamandap, an ancient gathering hall, constructed of wood in the 12^th century. It is now a temple. Nearby is a shrine to the god, Ganesh. Ashok Binayak is a very significant place for worshippers of this very popular deity. Close by are two Shiva Temples, the tall city landmark known as Maju Deval (climb to the top storey for great views of the city) is the more prominent while the other is used by vegetable-sellers.

      Across from Kasthamadap is the Vishnu Temple, Trailokya Mohan Narayan. Just south of this temple, at the beginning of Basantapur Street, is Kumari Bahal, the House of the Living Goddess. The carved windows and balconies are particularly impressive.

      As you work your way northward, along the elongated square, you will see another temple to Shiva, the Shiva-Parvati Temple, and Bhagwati Temple, with its golden roofs.

     As the square narrows and become Makhan Tole, once Kathmandu’s main street, notice the Great Bell and a series of small temples, on the left. The most significant of these is the Krishna Temple, built in 1648.

     Across the street is King Pratap Malla’s Column and more small temples. Of note are the Jagannath Temple, the oldest building in this part of the square, and Kala Bhairab, a statue of the scariest aspect of the god, Shiva. Further to the east is the entrance to the Royal Palace Complex, straddled by stone lions, ridden by Shiva and his wife, Parvati.

     Next, wander the grounds of the palace, lingering in the Nasal Chowk, and exploring the many temples.

     Exit the palace and continue north on Makhan Tole. The most imposing and important temple in the area is the Taleju Temple. Unfortunately, its access is strictly controlled and cannot be visited by Westerners.

     On the left is the Garuda Statue, erected in the 10^th century. Opposite it is the Tana Deval Temple. Further ahead, the street widens into Indra Chowk. The Akash Bhairab Temple is on your left, and, nearby, a brass shrine to the god, Ganesh.

     Now, continue walking to the northeast, into Kel Tole, location of the famous Seto Machhendranath Temple, recognized by both Hindus and Buddhists. Also on this square is Lunchun Lunbun Ajina, a Tantric Buddhist temple.

     Next, turn left from Kel Tole. After you pass Kilgal Tole, with its pagoda platform, turn left into the courtyard of Yitun Bahal. At the far end of this rectangular space is the Kichandra Bahal, one of the city’s oldest (1381). Note, especially, the demon (Guru Mapa) who devours bad children.

     Then, exit this courtyard and head further west (left) to find the three-tiered Nara Devi Temple. It was one of only a few temples to survive the devastating 1934 earthquake without serious damage.

     From this intersection, turn north to reach Bangemudha Square, named for the piece of wood in which coins have been nailed (this action is reputed to cure a toothache). The Ikha Narayan Temple, on the square, contains several remarkable images. On the northern side of the square is a small standing Buddha, which dates to the 5^th or 6^th century.

     Further north, turn left at an alleyway guarded by a single, broken, stone lion. It leads to Nag Bahal, a temple with painted murals above the shrine. Nearby is Kathesimbhu Stupa, in whose courtyard you will find a miniature replica of Swayambhunath, the most important pilgrimage shrine in the entire Kathmandu Valley. Check out the other statues and stupas in the courtyard before proceeding.

     Now, return to the main road and turn right, continuing beyond Bangemudha Square and the Nara Devi Temple (see above). As you walk south, note the Postage Stamp Window, on your left. It is incredibly intricate and unique (hence the stamp, issued in 1978), and sits next to a three-roofed pagoda.

     Further south, on your right, is the Yatkha Bahal. Check out the supporting columns of the old building behind the stupa. Then, continue to walk southward until you reach Durbar Square, where the walking tour began.