Hong Kong, because of its long association with England, is truly a cosmopolitan city, a blend of East and West. Shopper's can find almost anything there, and pratically the entire population speaks English. Its skyline is second to none and its harbor is always busy with shipping (it's one of the largest container ports in the world) and pleasure boats. The city is divided into districts but is fairly compact because the island is very mountainous and the only area available for building is the immediate shoreline. It is an exciting city which never sleeps and reminds visitors of New York with its tall buildings and non-stop shopping. Here are my selections for the best of this great city. A photo album will follow.

 

       1. The Peak - Victoria Peak looks down over the entire city providing picture-post-card views of the skyline, harbor and outlying islands. Access is via road or the steepest funicular in the world. Panoramas must be experienced both during the day and during the night. The Peak is well-developed with several restaurants and shopping areas, besides the overlooks.

 

       2. Ride the Star Ferry - This frequent ferry service between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon peninsula must be experienced if only for the views. At posting, the ride across cost a mere $0.30 -- what a bargain!

 

       3. Aberdeen Fishing Village - On another part of Hong Kong Island, tourists can take a Sampan which winds its way through the old fishing village -- people here have lived on their boats for many, many years. The fishing boats have all of life's amenities, like televisions, dishwashers, etc., except for fresh water, which requires an occasional trip onto shore. The contrast of these old, in some cases decrepit boats with the high-rise apartment buildings on shore is stark and interesting.

 

       4. Shopping at the Stanley Market - The village of Stanley, in another section of the island, is noted for its great shopping. Here intrepid shoppers can find great bargains, especially if they are willing to bargain, on all types of items. Even non-shoppers enjoy the lively scene and browsing through the narrow alleys lined with shops and stalls.

 

       5. Promenade along the Kowloon Harborfront - The waterfront walkway in the Tsim Shs Tsui section of Kowloon is a lovely stroll and also provides fantastic views of the Hong Kong skyline from water level.

 

       6. Visit the Buddha at Po Lin Monastery - On Lantau Island, southwest of Hong Kong visitors can climb the 268 steps up to the largest outdoor seated bronze Buddha in the world. The best way to reach the village of Ngong Ping is to take the cable car, probably the longest in the world. Once in the village the Buddha looms overhead and is well-worth the effort of climbing the stairway to see him up close.

 

       7. Man Mo Temple - The most popular Buddhist temple in Hong Kong is located in the Western District, on Hollywood Road. The temple is always filled with smoke from the incense which is burned as an offering to the Buddha.

 

       8. Temple Street Night Market - Another interesting shopping venue is located off Nathan Road, the main north-south artery on Kowloon. Practice your bargaining here and search that treasure that you've been unable to find elsewhere. People-watching is alos fantastic here.

 

       9. View the Symphony of Light - At 8 PM each night the Hong Kong skyline comes alive in a wonderfully well-coordinated light show. The best viewing area is near the clock on the Kowloon side of the harbor. Come early to get a good spot since the performance is very popular.

 

       10. Play the Ponies at Happy Valley Racetrack - Hong Kong residents are inveterate gamblers and the Happy Valley Racetrack is the main venue for horse-racing, the Sport of Kings. The race track is just east of Central, Hong Kong's downtown district.

    Although not containing a wealth of attractions, Shanghai is certainly an exciting and cosmopolitan city. Its modern architecture is inspiring and unusual and tall (there are over 2,700 buildings over 13 stories in this city). Because it is a center for business and finance, it is perhaps the premier gateway city into China. While very modern, it has preserved a bit of its past glory and the surrounding areas have several important attractions for the traveler. This post will be followed by a photo album.

 

     1. The Bund - This riverside promenade is lined with Colonial European buildings which recall Shanghai's glory days as one of the great centers for trade in the world. Underground walkways allow pedestrians to avoid crossing the busy road and a stroll along the river provides incredible views of Shanghai's modern district, the Pudong.

 

     2. Excursion to Suzhou - This city is the center for silk-making in China (and a typical silk factory can be visited). But, the city is even more well known because of its many classic Chinese gardens. Here are the best examples in all of China of the traditional blending of rocks, trees, shrubs, and water to create an atmosphere of peace and tranquility. Great stops in tour of these gardens include the Humble Administrator's Garden and the Lion's Grove Garden.

 

     3. Excursion to a Water Village - The "water villages" around Shanghai are a cluster of small towns in which waterways provide the major transport. Much like Venice, these villages are focused around canals and boat traffic is a typical way of getting from place to place. Zhouzhuang is a quintessential water village and a delight to explore. Take a boat ride through the canals to enjoy the ambience.

 

     4. Nanjing Road - This glitzy, neon, largely pedestrian-only street is lined with all types of shops, hotels and eating establishments. If you can successfully negotiate the aggressive street pedlars, it is a great place for people-watching and for finding that unusual item or designer knock-off. It ends at the Bund so is major thoroughfare for walkers on their way to the river.

 

     5. Pudong Skyline - This temple to the modern and burgeoning new China worships height. The Oriental Pearl Tower rises majestically near the Jinmao Building, currently the tallest completed building in the city. A bit further away looms the new World Financial Center which will become Shanghai's tallest at 492 meter (1614 feet) and one of the tallest buildings in the world (currently #2).

 

     6. Boat Ride on the Huangpu River - This waterway which splits the Puxi, Shanghai "old" city from the Pudong, the new modern metropolis, provides great views of both sides and is a particularly nice way to experience Shanghai. One also is reminded of how busy the city still is in the shipping area.

 

     7. Shanghai Museum - This museum of Chinese art is located on People's Square, about a mile from the Bund. It contains a treasure-trove of items from various dynasties and is divided into galleries by type.

 

     8. Yuyuan Garden - This traditional Chinese garden, although not as great as those in Suzhou, provides visitors and residents a glimpse into old China in the heart of this busy city. Unfortunately, the garden is extremely crowded with people, but, if unable to visit Suzhou, it is worth the time and energy. There is also an extensive market/mall around the garden which attracts throngs more.

 

     9. Maglev Train - For a real treat, take the Maglev Train, the fastest train in the world, from the city center to the new airport. The train reaches speeds of 240 miles per hour and covers the 35 miles in about 7 minutes. Digital readouts in the cars allow passengers to see how fast the train is traveling. You can certainly feel the acceleration!

 

     10. Jade Buddha Temple - This temple contains two jades Buddhas, one seated and one reclining, and is the most important temple of its kind in the city.

     Having just visited Beijing, I think I can delineate the best of this up-and-coming city. This city is rich in heritage and culture and is growing logarithmically. In preparation for the Olympics in August, the city has been on a focused campaign to both "clean up its act" (it has been slammed mercilessly for its pollution) and to make the city more user-friendly for tourists. The results have been remarkable. Visit if you can. Look for my photo album to follow tomorrow.

 

       1. Great Wall at Badaling (or other locations) - It's ironic, I suppose, after my glowing introduction, that the first attraction is actually 50 miles or so outside the city, but the Great Wall is THE most important sight in all of China. Climbing and walking the Great Wall is, I feel, a must-do for everyone in the world, at least every traveler. It is exhilarating and downright exhausting (in some places, the wall is practically vertical), but worth every breath for its panoramic views and sense of accomplishment.

 

       2. Forbidden City - This city-within-a-city is a treasure-trove of history and a testament to the power and wealth of the Chinese Civilization. Built during the Ming Dynasty (13-1400's), the complex is filled with beautiful halls and gates, as well as spectacular Chinese architecture. The Imperial Gardens are also impressive.

 

       3. Tiananmen Square - The largest public square in the world is daunting in size. At the northern end is the Forbidden City in all its glory. At the center is the Memorial to the People, an obelisk dedicated to those who gave their lives in the revolution which toppled the dynastic system. At the southern end is Mao's Tomb (there is always a line of people waiting to enter to see the remains of the Chairman) and the South Tower (climb this for views). The buildings on the east and west sides of the square are formidable but unremarkable.

 

       4. Temple of Heaven/Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests - This complex, about a mile or so south of Tiananmen Square, contains one of China's most beautiful buildings, the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, a major symbol of China.

 

       5. Summer Palace - On the northwestern outskirts of the city is this splendid complex buildings which also recall the glory of the empire. Here visitors see a more feminine touch, the work of Empress Cixi who preferred this locale to the Forbidden City. The idyllic location on Kunming Lake makes for a beautiful setting. Particularly interesting sights within the complex are the Long Corridor (decorated with beautiful paintings from Chinese history), the Marble Boat, and the Buddhist Temple which towers over the complex.

 

       6. Ming Tombs and Spirit Way - Walk the lovely Spirit Way and recall how the emperors approached the tombs of their ancestors to honor them. The stately statues along the walkway are solemn guardians while also pointing the way to the tombs. Learn about Emperor Yongle and his contributions to Chinese civilization while appreciating the reverence that is inherent in the culture for its past rulers.

 

       7. Beihai Park - This most extensive and interesting park in the city lies just to the west of the Forbidden City and is a pleasure to stroll through. Visit the white Dagoba on an artificial island in the park and be sure to note the Seven Dragon Screen at the northwestern edge of the park.

 

       8. Drum Tower - Besides providing great views of the city to the south, if you are willing to climb the steep stairway, this impressive tower has some interesting history. It was the timekeeper of the city and, on display inside is a water clock similar to the one which actually kept time for the city. The drums are also on display which proclaimed the time to workers and residents.

 

       9. Lama Temple - The most important Buddhist temple in the city is located near the Drum Tower to the northeast of Tiananmen Square. This was one of only a few temples of its kind which were spared during the purges of Mao's tenancy.

 

       10. Take a Pedi-cab or walk through a Hutong - The hutongs of Beijing are the narrow alleyways of the old city which were crowded with residences. The sections of the hutong had and still have community bathrooms (the houses have none) and here Beijing pulses the way it has for centuries. These enclaves are fast disappearing, giving way to high-rise apartment buildings, hotels and office buildings, but a few have been slated for preservation.

                                                                  Suzhou Walking Tour

 

Begin at the North Bus Station and take Renmin Lu south to Xi or Dong Bei Jie. Take a left and stop at the Beisi Ta (North Temple Pagoda). Continue east to the Zhuo Zheng Yuan (Humble Administrator’s Garden), on the left, just after crossing Quimen Lu. This is the largest and perhaps most beautiful garden in the city.

Next go south on Yuan Lin Lu and stop at Shizi Lin (Lion’s Grove Garden) on the left. This garden relies on shapes and configurations of rocks for many of its landscapes and is a delight to explore. Next, continue south on what is now Lin Dun Lu for several blocks, then turn right on Guanquian Lu and turn right again to reach the Daoist Xuanmiao Guan (Temple of Mystery).

Go back to Lin Dun Lu and south to its end, then turn left and then right onto Fenghuang Jie. Check out Shuang Ta (Twin Pagoda), on the left, and then continue south to Shiquan Jie and turn left to Wangshu Yuan (Master of the Nets Garden).

Go back to Fenghuang Jie and turn left, then right onto Zhului Lu westward, then left again on Dong Da Lu to visit the Pan Men Scenic Area. Note especially the Wu Men Bridge, the Pan Men Gate, and the Ruigang Pagoda.

Next, go north to Xinshi Lu, turn left, then right onto Panmen Lu which changes names several times. Turn left onto Zhongshi Lu which eventually becomes Fengaiao Lu and runs along a canal. Take a right and left onto Liuyan Lu and then right and left again onto Xiyuan and the Xi Yuan (West Garden Temple).

Retrace steps eastward, then turn left onto Guangji Dajie which leads back to the North Bus Station. Check out the Baodai Qiao (Belt Bridge) as you pass Renmin Lu. Buses back to Shanghai leave frequently from this station.

                                                                              Hong Kong Walking Tours

 

Hong Kong Walking Tour 1 - Central & West

From the Star Ferry Pier, take the elevated walkway which exits at the Cenotaph. Walk northeast on Connaught Place past Jardines House and take the overhead walkway to Exchange Square. Check out the sculptures and look to the north to see Two IFC, the city’s tallest building, for now, at 1378 feet.

Retrace steps then go southeast on Connaught Rd and cut across the Cenotaph southward to Statue Square. The only statue left here is of Thomas Jackson, a 19^th century banker. Ahead, across Des Voeux Road is the amazing Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank Building. Under the building is a public area. This was the world’s most expensive building in 1985, when it was completed (almost 1 Billion dollars). Rub the lions’ paws at the entrance for good luck.

Next door is the Bank of China Building. Further to the east is the 70-story Bank of China Tower, designed by noted architect, I.M. Pei. Take the elevator to the 47^th floor for great views of the harbor.

South of the tower is Hong Kong Park. Check out the Aviary which displays the bright plumage of many tropical birds.

Exit the park near the Bank of China Tower and turn left onto Queensway. Follow this road northwest (it becomes Queen’s Road Central) to the Central Market, on the right, just past Queen Victoria St. Here is the beginning of the Mid-Level Escalator. Take the escalator westward to Hollywood Road and get off.

Take Hollywood Road northwest to the Man Mo Temple (at #126 Hollywood Rd). Visit this temple, dedicated to the deities of Literature (Man) and War (Mo). Note the coils of burning incense hanging from the ceiling. After the visit, retrace steps and take any road north, back to Queens Road, turn right and then left on Jubilee Street, then right again on Connaught Road and return to the Star Ferry Pier for a ride back to Kowloon. (Approximately 3 hours, with several stops)

Hong Kong Walking Tour 2 - Kowloon (Tsim Sha Tsui)

Walk along the waterfront toward the Star Ferry Pier (Tourist Information is available here) on the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade past the Avenue of the Stars (a tribute to Hong Kong‘s film industry).

Take a right after the Museum of Art and pass the Space Museum, then cross Salisbury Road to the famous Peninsula Hotel. Enter to peek at the opulent lobby, then proceed north on Nathan Road, nicknamed “The Golden Mile” although its more neon mile. Nathan Road is Kowloon’s major shopping boulevard. Note the infamous Chungking Mansions, at #’s 36 - 41. Continue northward, perhaps stopping for a stroll through Kowloon Park for a respite from the hustle and bustle. Wander as far as time or patience permits, then backtrack to the waterfront and back to the hotel.

Hong Kong Walking Tour 3 - The Peak

Take the Peak Circuit, a fairly flat walk around the perimeter of the Peak, using Lugard and Harlech Roads which junction at the Peak Tower. The 1.5 to 2 mile walk provides incredible views of Central and the harbor, as well as Aberdeen and Lamma Island to the south.

 

 

                                    Beijing Walking Tour

Because the distances involved in this tour are fairly large (Beijing's blocks are extremely long!), I have modified the walk to include taxis connecting some of more far-flung attractions. Taxis are cheap in China. However, whenever taking cabs in China, since most cab-drivers do not speak English, ask your hotel concierge to write down your destinations, especially the name of the hotel, in Chinese to show to the driver). For the more adventurous there are even city buses which cover some of the route.

Begin the tour on Dong Dan Bei Dajie (one of Beijing's major north-south arteries). Walk or take a cab south about 1.5 miles to Temple of Heaven Park (Tiantan). Enter the park (pay for combination ticket) and visit the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests (Qiniandian), one of the most stunning buildings in the world. If time permits, visit the other sights in the park, to the south.

Take a cab or exit the park to the north  and turn left on Tiantan Lu, then right on Tiangaionan Dajie or Qianmen Dajie, which leads to Tiananmen Square (Tiananmen Guangchang). Check out the South Gate (Qianmen) and Mao’s Memorial, if not already done. Walk north across the square and turn left on Chiang’an Jie, then enter Beihai Park (Beihai Gongyuan (on right). Walk northward along the western shores of Nanhai Lake and then Zhonghai Lake to Wenjin Jie (the lakes and park are several miles long from south to north so this part of the tour will take some time, but the walking is very pleasant), take a left and then a right onto Xishiku Dajie, where you can see the striking gray and white North Cathedral (Bei Tang) (Imagine, a catholic church in Beijing!).

Retrace steps back to Wenjin Jie and Beihai Park, on the left, and walk northward along the eastern shore of the lake to check out the white jade Buddha at Round City (Tuan Cheng). Continue northward and cross the bridge to Qiong Island (Qiongdao). Check out Buddhist Yong’an Temple that ascends the island’s hill, culminating in the White Dagoba at the apex. Pay the extra few cents to climb to Shanyin Hall for views over the Forbidden City to the east.

Complete the visit to the park by walking north to see the Nine Dragon Screen (Jiulongbi), built to deflect bad spirits (in the northwestern corner of the park).

Exit the park at the north end at Di’anmen Xi Dajie. This next part of the walk is also lengthy, so take a cab and skip the early part, getting to the Drum Tower and Bell Tower). Find Sanzuoiao Hutong (opposite the northwest border of the park along Dianmen Dajie) and travel north, then turn left on Qianhai Xi Jie which goes west then curves northward past Prince Gong’s Mansion. Check it out if time permits (at least try to see the grounds without paying admission, if possible). Then retrace steps on Qianhai Jie to the lake and continue along the west shore of the Qianhai Lake, then cross the Silver Ingot Bridge. Go straight ahead then right on Dashibei to Dianmenwai Dajie. Take a left on this road which leads to the Drum Tower (Gulou), then continue northward to the Bell Tower (Zhonglou). The latter offer great views for those willing to climb its narrow stairway.

After the visit, take a cab or head east on Gulou Dong Dajie to Yonghegong Dajie and turn left. Visit the Lama Temple (Yonghe Gong) (a Tibetan Buddhist masterpiece) on the right and the Confucius Temple (Kongzi Maio), on the left (actually on Guozijian Lu).

Complete the loop by meandering westward through this Hutong (be aware that walking through the hutongs is difficult since maps are inadequate, so plan to get lost, or hire a pedi-cab to see the area), then turning left onto Andingmennei Dajie or Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie which changes names several times but ultimately becomes Wanfujing Dajie, Beijing’s major shopping street (if you are not interested in shopping at this time, just take a cab back to the hotel) and runs parallel to the starting street of the tour. Take any left to get back there.

      Now that the trip is over, I have begun to assess its significance and also to appreciate what we have seen (it's very hard in the middle of a busy trip like this to reflect). Thus, there are a few additional observations that I must make.

 

      1. Watch out for China. The country is not only emerging and entering the world political picture (as symbolized by the 2008 Olympics), but it seems to be embracing capitalism in a huge way. We saw many examples of the acceptance and exploitation of tourists. Many Chinese vendors are especially aggressive toward visitors perhaps because of all the competition. The amount of building going on in Chinese cities is staggering. Beijing is so worried about the demolition of historical areas, such as hutongs, that it has designated several to be preserved.

      

       2. Another noticeable aspect of China's cities is their cleanliness. This was a total surprise to all of our group. We expected, probably because of the huge population and stereotypes of old and backward people, that things would be very dirty. On the contrary, China seems to have adopted a policy of washing the streets each evening, just like in Europe. I am always embarassed that I am an American because our city streets are so filthy, with litter everywhere. Now China has shown us up as well.

 

       3. What a rich country in terms of its historical and cultural treasures. It is gratifying that the Chinese government seems to be intent on preserving this long and distinguished legacy.

 

       4. The hotels we stayed in on our trip were all very good. The best ones, however, were the Ritz-Carlton in Beijing, and the Shangri-La in Bangkok. The staffs at both of these hotels must have attended the same workshops on service!

 

       5. Because of the excellent time we had with other members of our group, we are considering establishing a "Travel Club." I have been chosen to coordinate and communicate with everyone in the planning of future trips. Most of us feel that group size should remain at 15 or under, since larger groups are much more cumbersome and are likely to be more stressful.

 

      Lee would also like to add some comments before this entry is posted.  

      Our final day was simply (there was actually nothing simple about it) a travel day. We were awakened at 3 AM, and the hotel kindly provided a continental breakfast for our group at 4:00. The rest of the day and night was spent in airplanes or air terminals. We flew first to Tokyo, Japan, a 5 1/2 hour flight, then changed planes and continued onward to San Francisco, an 8-hour flight. Some of our group continued on to home, but we had arranged to spend the night in San Francisco to avoid 18 or 19 hours in the air. We will return to Rhode Island tomorrow on Southwest Airlines.

      For those who have followed our progress on this most interesting and momentous trip, thank you for your interest. It was mind-boggling to me that we had so many hits during our time away -- almost 4,000 in all! Hope you enjoyed the pictures. I must apologize that the narratives were fairly sparse, especially toward the end. It got more and more difficult to find the time to post the blog, since the pictures took so long to upload, and I thought that the pictures were more important than my chronicle. I certainly learned a lot during this experience.

     In conclusion, Lee and I like to look back on a trip and attempt to describe our favorite things. I will do a little of this now:

 

         Favorite Experience - Climbing and walking the Great Wall. It was absolutely awesome to stand on these stones which have lasted for so long.

 

         Most Beautiful Place - The Li River landscape is other-worldly, and eerily beautiful.

 

         Best Architecture - Without doubt, the Grand Palace Complex in Bangkok is one of the most stunning places on earth.

 

          Best City - Hong Kong was the most exciting and cosmopolitan city that we visited. Wish we could have stayed longer.

 

          Most Sobering Place - To see the Terra Cotta Warriors in Xi'an is a mind-altering experience. To think that this tomb is over 2,000 years old and contains an entire life-sized army for the protection, in the after-life, of one man is absolutely incredible.

 

         Most Historic Location - The Forbidden City, in Beijing, has witnessed many, many generations of Chinese history and is a glowing testament to the richness and power of this culture.

 

         Best Small Town - Zhouzhuang, one of China's "water villages," is adorable. Lee and I have always loved the small places since the cities are always too busy and too hectic. Our boat ride on the canals was truly special.

 

         Most Unusual Experience - Riding the Maglev Train in Shanghai was another highlight, and totally unexpected since it was not part of our original itinerary.

 

         Most Serene Location - The Gardens of Suzhou, although crowded with tourists, offer a sense of peace and solitude which is precious. As we strolled through the gardens, there were times when we felt completely alone!

 

      Thanks again for tuning in! I will return to my usual material in the coming days, although I will definitely post the remainder of the pictures on or about June 1.

 

          Gary

       

Well, we have reached the final full day of our incredible adventure. Tomorrow morning at 4 AM, we will be whisked to the Bangkok Airport for our flight home. I have seen pretty much all that I wanted to see in the city, so we have no definite plans for today, but we probably have some last-minute shopping to do before we leave.

Besides the unusual descriptions of the events of the day, I will reserve today's blog for some random observations and opinions as a kind of recap of our entire trip. So let me start with some weather remarks. We were extremely fortunate throughout the trip with weather. From past experience, I know how much weather can affect the enjoyment of a place, not to mention its overall effect on attitude and tolerance. I can truthfully say that weather really did not hinder us at all. We had one rainy morning in Beijing (when we took the pedi-cab through the Hutong), but there was not much sight-seeing scheduled for that day since we were flying to Shanghai in the afternoon. Our day in Hong Kong during which we visited the Po Lin Buddha was miserable-looking with light rain and fog, but things cleared a bit when we reached the Buddha so that we were able to take pictures and enjoy the location. We did have to scrub our planned funicular ride to the Peak at night because the fog and mist were too thick, but that was our only concession to the weather gods. It poured several times when we were in Bangkok, but we were either inside, having dinner or asleep -- otherwise the weather here was spectacular, although extremely hot and humid.

Next, a few words about group travel. I was nervous about the idea of a group tour because I have never traveled that way; I always designed and orchestrated my own trips. Plus, when I examined the itinerary, I was disappointed that several "must-sees" seemed to be omitted and yet there were an excessive number of trips to "factories," to "learn about the process of making items characteristic of the area" (in other words, to shop).

Well, I must say that I was pleasantly surprised by the group travel experience. In each location, we were provided with a Local Guide who was well-versed in the culture and knowledgeable about the sights of the area. Some were a bit difficult to understand (English is not their native language) but all were adequate and increased our enjoyment of the attractions with their information and willingness to answer our questions. I was content to let someone else lead and take responsibility for the group's welfare, yet there were a few times (especially in Hong Kong and Bangkok where there were short group agendas) when I led a few of us on a side trip or when I left the group completely to explore some places on my own. In conclusion, the only real detriment on this trip were the factory tours and the girls seemed to relish them. The other very positive (or negative, I suppose) aspect of group travel is the comaraderie of the group that seems to develop over the length of the trip. Our group turned out to be great! Everyone got along well and we seemed to settle into particular roles, which was interesting. The beauty of this group was its size -- only ten (10) at its largest. We heard some horror stories from people we met in various hotels about their huge groups (30 - 50) and we could only imagine how that would have affected our enjoyment of the trip and the time spent in each place (think about how long it would take for 40 people to go to the bathroom).

The personalities of the group are also very important, and again, we were lucky. Everyone was fairly flexible and pleasant and accomodating. The possibly ramifications of the effects of bitchy or overbearing people could prove horrendous, or at least unpleasant.

Another random discussion: Lee and I have been collecting pins from our travels for many years. We have hundreds of them from all over the world. However, it proved very difficult to find pins in this part of Asia. The only places where we found a few were Beijing and Hong Kong. I still have not found pins in Bangkok, although I will look a little harder today, our last day. Obviously, pins are more a European and American phenomenon. Perhaps some enterprising person will start the trend here in the Far East.

Fruits of Thailand - We were introduced to several fruits here that we have never or seldom seen before. Here are a few of them: Durian - a strange-looking large globular fruit with large spines (we didn't try this because the hotels don't stock it since it smells horribly); Jack Fruit - the bright yellow interiors are edible but not extremely tasty; Longan - small brown relatives of the Lychee, the creamy white almost transparent interiors are very tasty; Mangosteen - resembles a squat apple with leaves at the base of the stem. The white interiors are delicious; Rambutan - the most unusual-looking fruit of all, its rind is red and very hairy but the white fruit inside is wonderful; Rose Apple - looks more like a pear, but the fruits has no particular taste.

Finally, a very special wish:

           HAPPY 8TH BIRTHDAY, ZACHERY from Nanny and Pop-Pop with lots of kisses and hugs and loves!

      Today, the sun is shining and the temperature is about 90 degrees, very different from when we left the restaurant last night where it was positively pouring (this is the beginning of monsoon season here) and the street was like a river. Our hotel room looks out over the Chao Phraya River, the waterway which winds through downtown Bangkok. We are leaving shortly for our guided tour of the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (the Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and perhaps even Wat Pho (the Temple of the Reclining Buddha).

      The Grand Palace of Bangkok is truly grand!  It is one of the most exquisite complexes I have ever seen. The architecture is unusual and very distinctive. And everything is covered with gold. Each building is more ornate and elaborate than the last and yet they all blend in perfectly with one another. There are demons and guardians and lots of colorful tiles.

      The Emerald Buddha, however, is a bit of a disappointment. It is small after all the hoopla, although fittingly surrounded by incredible opulence. We also saw the Changing of the Guard at the Grand Palace. The Thai people do not seem to have the flair of the English for their ceremonies.

      Next we visited the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho. This is the oldest and largest temple in the city, its size necessary to house this huge golden Buddha who is 150 feet long and 50 feet high. His feet are encrusted with mother-of-pearl.

      From here, I again left the group and headed off on my own. Instead of walking, I hired a Tuk-tuk to take me around (for 40 Baht, about $1.30). I was with him for about 2 hours!! My driver brought me to a number of Wats, waited for me to come out and then, after my sightseeing tour was over, he dropped me off near the water-taxi pier so I could take a boat ride back to the hotel (something I had been hoping to do).

      I visited Wat Suthat, the Giant Swing, Wat Pari Nayok, Wat Benchamabophit (the Marble Temple), and the large Standing Buddha at Wat Intharawihan. He also took me by Chtralada Palace, the residence of the King, and Dusit Park, where I saw the Vimanmek Palace and several imposing Halls.

      My boat ride was also great. I passed by several Wats, especially Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, an imposing 286 feet high and covered with pieces of ceramic tile.

      My Tuk-tuk driver also brought me to several shops. In one, I actually had a shirt made -- it was delivered to our hotel the same day.

      Check out my photo album, but I will not be able to post any more pictures of the trip since I have reached my monthly upload limit. Look for more photos in June!

 

 

 

Lee's Comments:

     Finally after 14 days I get the opportunity to put some comments on the blog.  Here goes, this will  appeal mostly to the women folk.  First thing I noticed in the hotels was all the ameni,ties they give to guests.  There is a flashlight (in case of fire or loss of power), an umbrella in case of rain, etc. Secondly,  I noticed they actually have oxygen mask in their rooms in the event of fire and smoke -- we found these in Beijing and Shanghai.  The other amenities included toothbrush and paste, comb, talc, razors, shoe polish and mouthwash to name a few.  Also, I need to mention that all our tour buses were very clean and air-conditioned.  Some other customs: if you have a fixed dinner you are allowed one portion  per person. It was funny when a few people asked for seconds.  The wait staff all looked at each other and did not know what to do until our tour guide asked them to get extras.  In mainland China and Hong Kong the staff is very attentive. In restaurants they hover over you and want to assist you.  These people are very polite and courteous. The food has been so varied with new flavors and items I have never seen.  Dumplings are a small shaped dough to match whatever food was inside.  For example if there were shrimp inside of the dumpling the dumpling would be shaped like a shrimp. They had one dumpling shaped like a pigeon; I could not eat it, but Gary did.

      We left Hong Kong early this morning for our 11:20 AM flight to Bangkok. We loved Hong Kong but were glad to leave since it was pouring this morning. Thai Airways is a wonderful airline -- everyone is so friendly, the food is good, the plane was relatively new and the airport in Bangkok brand new and very efficient. We checked into the Shangri-La Hotel (supposedly one of the best in Bangkok) at about 3 PM. Our guide Toi was very nice and offered us some additional options, since we are mostly on our own here in Bangkok.

      The majority of the group decided to go to a tailor shop to have some clothing made. I preferred to strike out on my own, to see what I could see in the vicinity of the hotel. Armed with my map and cameras, and a paper to give to a taxi-cab driver so that I could meet the group at a restaurant, I headed north on Charoen Krung (New Road) toward the city center. Walking was very difficult since the sidewalks were crowded with people, students coming home from school, and locals returning from work or just strolling. Most of the sidewalks also contained vendors selling all sorts of items, from food to coins to fabrics, on both the street side and store side so that the narrow alley between was difficult to negotiate. The city is also very dirty, and the air pollution actually hurts your lungs when you breathe -- it seems that every vehicle (and there are thousands of them) is spewing out dark, black smoke. Walking for an hour and a half seemed like smoking a pack of cigarettes.

      My first stop was Wat Muang Khae, just a temple that I noticed as I was walking, so I decided to stop and take my first photos. Then it was onward to my goal for the afternoon, Wat Traimit, the Temple of the Golden Buddha. This large Buddha of solid gold was discovered accidentally when the plaster covering broke as the Buddha was dropped. Now it is a major sight in the city. I took my shoes off, removed my hat and walked in to take some pictures.

      Next I headed for Wat Saket and the Golden Mount. The Golden Mount is a golden stupa which sits on a high hill overlooking the city. The grounds were spectacular, with many types of flowers and beautiful shrubs and trees (Lee would have loved it). The climb was strenuous only because I was in a hurry, but the view at the top was great.

      At the bottom of the Mount is Wat Saket, another splendid temple with beautiful grounds. I felt a little strange here because I think it was supposed to be closed, but the gate was open and I entered and took pictures. Then I flagged down a cab and got to the designated Thai restaurant just after the rest of the group arrived. The Reun Khum 1 Restaurant was an authentic, off the beaten track place with absolutely wonderful food. I'm not sure I know exactly what I ate, but it was all delicious -- many courses for just $12 per person!! Can't beat that!!

    Not an auspicious beginning. It is raining this morning, our "free" day in Hong Kong. Thankfully we completed six of the eight must-sees on our list yesterday! Our plan is to visit the Po Lin Monastery, on Lantau Island, to see the largest seated Bronze Buddha in the world.  After that, our plan is to shop, shop, shop.

    We used many forms of transportation on our way to see the Buddha. We took the free shuttle bus from the hotel to Kowloon Station where we hopped onto the subway (MTR) to Tung Chung, the last stop on the Tung Chung Line. Then we took an unbelievably long cable car ride (25 minutes) to Ngong Ping village (on Lantau Island) where the Buddha sits.

    The little village is adorable with many shops and snack/eating establishments. We walked to the base of the stairs and climbed th 268 steps to the Buddha. He is positively huge, 34 meters (over 100 feet) tall, and sits dramatically on the top of a hill on the island. We were very impressed with the climb and with the Buddha.

    Returning to Tung Chung involved a lengthy bus ride up and down the hills and valleys of the island, with many hairpin turns. The weather, although ugly looking when we left and along the cable car ride, turned out to be okay once we reached the Buddha. There was some mist and a few light showers, but we were very lucky as it turned out since it seemed to get worse later when we were leaving. The entire trip took us about 5 hours, but we were not rushing and stopped often to shop or just to talk. We also spent some of the time waiting for transportation.

     Concerning food, I must chronicle that for the majority of the trip, until now, most of our meals were included. And, even though they were wonderful, they were all traditional Chinese meals. Quite frankly, we were tired of Dim Sum, Sweet-and-Sour Pork, Noodles, and Tea, and we were yearning for some American food. So, on our first night in Hong Kong we went to TGI Fridays for hamburgers, on the second night, we had ribs at the Outback, and tonight, we went to a lovely Spanish restaurant, the Tapas Bar (inside the Shangri-La Hotel) and had appetizers.

    In Bangkok, we are also on our own, but I hope, there, we will sample some traditional Thai cuisine.

       Today is our whirlwind tour of Hong Kong. We began with a ride to Central (the downtown, financial district) and then up the mountain to Victoria Peak. Even though it was a little foggy, the views were still spectacular. Looking down at the huge skyscrapers and Hong Kong harbor was mesmerizing. We stayed a short while taking pictures, vowing to return again at night to see the view with all the city lights. Then we drove by Repulse Bay, Hong Kong's most popular beach, to Stanley Market. Supposedly the best shopping in Hong Kong, Stanley market has hundreds of shops/stalls selling everything from souvenirs and trinkets to high fashion overstocks. The girls were in heaven, wishing they had more than the one hour David, our guide, gave them.

      Next we headed to Aberdeen where the fishermen and their families live in their boats, moored in the harbor. David told us that they have all the conveniences of home on their boats except for fresh water, which they have to get from the village. We actually rode on a sampan through the fishing village to see them on a typical day. It was interesting. We also saw the Jumbo Floating Restaurant, a place immortalized in several films.

      After we returned to the hotel, a bunch of us decided to take Gary's Walking Tour of the Central and Western Districts of the city (see details below). We began our walk by taking the elevated pedestrian walkway from our hotel to the harborfront promenade and then westward to the Star Ferry terminal, passing by the Avenue of the Stars, a tribute to Hong Kong's film industry (including Bruce Lee and Jackie Chan).

      We have been extremely impressed by Hong Kong's beautiful skyscrapers, which, although not quite as distinctive as Shanghai's, are crowded together creating an arresting skyline. Hong Kong is to be commended for their concessions to pedestrians -- there are many elevated and underground walkways which allow walkers to avoid crossing the busy streets.

     The city is certainly a shopper's paradise -- it seems that almost every available space contains an entrepreneur or two displaying their wares. Some of the alleyways between main streets have barely enough room for a pedestrian to walk because of the size of stalls or displays.

     The walk ended at the Man Mo Temple, Hong Kong's oldest, dating to 1847. The smell and smoke of incense is heavy within the temple and the altars contain many donations of fruit or produce left by worshipers and visitors. It was a different experience.

     After another dinner of American food (Ribs at the Outback) we headed down the harborfront promenade again to see the Light Show. Every evening at 8PM the skyline of Hong Kong dances to music with colored lights and lasers. It's as if the skyscrapers come alive! We stood (very crowded) mesmerized and enjoyed the show. Following the 15 minute program, we headed north on Nathan Road to find the Temple Street Night Market, another opportunity for bargains. We bought a bag that we plan to use for gifts now that the luggage restrictions are over. We got a great buy, spending $15 for something that would cost at least $20 - $25 in the states. We took a cab back to the hotel, since we were exhausted from all of today's walking.

       We had a welcome late morning start today, our last day in Guilin. Lee and I took a walk along the waterfront promenade and just enjoyed the locals doing their morning rituals (see photos). Just before lunch we went to Fubo Hill, a place associated with defense of the city, where we climbed a number of stairs to a pavilion. Since it was raining, we decided not to climb farther (normally there is a 360 degree view of the entire city, but the fog was so thick we could see very little) so we returned to the hotel for our last meal in Mainland China. It was an excellent Dim Sum meal with a wide variety of dishes and flavors. Then we proceeded to Reed Flute Cave, the number one attraction in the city of Guilin. We were very surprised at the size and extent of the cave. It was creatively lit with various colors and the walking paths throughout the cave were well constructed and well-labeled. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience, then left for Hong Kong.

     Our flight was late afternoon (5:30 PM) so we did not arrive until evening and checked into our hotel at about 8:15 PM. We had a late supper (hamburgers!!) at TGI Fridays and went to bed, exhausted.

      Today is our Li River Cruise. We are hoping that the weather, which was very warm and hazy yesterday, will be clearer. We have been pretty lucky so far on this trip (I hope I don't jinx us), with only one rainy day, our last day in Beijing, when we weren't doing much.

        A Li River Cruise is probably one of the most memorable experiences in any visit to China. The cruise begins in the city of Guilin, in south central China, and ends in Yangshuo, 96 kilometers (60 miles) to the south. The Li River is languid and shallow, but it winds its way through some of the most breathtaking and serene scenery in the world. The limestone hills rise precipitously from the river. Formed about 200 million years ago, the area is a beautiful example of the glorious effects of erosion on the landscape. Guides will describe some of the mystical legends and fairy tales which surround some of the named features along the river. The entire cruise takes about 6 hours, four of those composed of the journey downstream, then a 2 hour bus ride back to Guilin. Lunch is served on board the boat. While in Guilin, explore Seven Star Park, which contains beautiful Flower Bridge and Light of China Square, among other sights. At the southern terminus of the boat trip, explore West Street in the village of Yangshuo.

      I must have jinxed us because we had rain for most of the day, and the mist and fog obscured many views making photography difficult. However, it never rained hard and we persevered through the day. The scenery was positively breath-taking! Check out the photo album and see one of the most unusual landscapes on the planet. We also loved Yangshuo, at the end of the cruise. We finally found a place to shop that was not high-end and where haggling is expected. We had much fun finding $2 scarves and $2 t-shirts. We could easily have cut the cruise by an hour and spent the time shopping or browsing.

     When we returned to the hotel, I took a walk to Seven Star Park, mostly a place for kids but with some scenic areas as well. I particularly liked Camel Hill.

Our dinner tonight was "Western," our first "American" type food since the trip started. We thoroughly enjoyed the change; most of us have had quite enough Chinese food at this point even though it's all been good.

     After dinner we took a walk to the Night Market, a series of red tents set up in a long line offering just about anything imaginable.

 

     Time for a few special hellos:

         Love and Kisses to David, Zachery & Braden from Pop-Pop and Nanny

         Love to Angela and Robert from Amelia

 

 

       Today we left Xi'an, but not before making a stop at the Small Great Goose Pagoda, a Buddhist pagoda originally built in 700 AD (although restored several times). The associated temple no longer functions for religious activities but has become a mini-mall of local handicrafts. The area around the pagoda is now a park, where we saw many locals resting and a few doing Tai Chi. We were there for only about an hour before we headed to the airport and our flight to Guilin.

       Guilin is a small city by Chinese standards. There are only about 800,000 people here. The area is noted for its unusual and distinctive landscape, a type of geological formation called Karst, named for a region in Slovenia where it also exists. The characteristics of this landscape are a multitude of vertical hills, some with sheer cliffs. The hills here are clustered around the Li River which winds slowly through the region. Tomorrow we board a cruise boat and float down the Li River to enjoy the scenery. The Chinese people have seen fanciful shapes in these hills so there are many named spots which we will see on our way down the river.

      The river cruise ends in a smaller town called Yangshuo. We think we may find some real bargains there on souvenirs. We'll see.

      When we arrived in Guilin, I took a walk behind the hotel on Zhengyang Road, a pedestrian street loaded with shops of all kinds. Some of the cross streets had stalls of people selling other types of trinkets. It was actually nice to see a smaller town for a change, since we've spent most of our time in big cities.

      We had a traditional Chinese dinner at our hotel this evening. I haven't said too much about food (except that it's been great) since we seldom remember what we have eaten -- the dishes are all so different and unusual. Here, however, I took a menu and I will list the foods we had:

            Diced Chicken and Corn Soup

            Barbeque Meat Platter (not like any barbeque I've ever had)

            Deep Fried Shrimp with Chili and Garlic Sauce

            Deep Fried Duck with Mashed Taro

            Fresh Sliced Beef with Ginger and Spring Onion

            Steamed Li River Fish with Sweet and Sour Sauce (a very strange-looking fish)

            Sauteed Broccoli with Mashed Garlic

            Sauteed Eggplant with Chili and Garlic Sauce

            Fried Rice Noodle "Guilin" Style

            Fresh Fruit Platter (this is dessert for the Chinese) - consisted of watermelon, cherry tomatoes, and dragon fruit

 

      Sounds appetizing, doesn't it? Actually, all the dishes were very good!

           

       Today was an exciting day for us. We were able to visit the Terra Cotta Warriors. Around 221 BC, China consisted of seven (7) separate states. They had their own language, their own monetary system, and their own set of laws. Along came Qin Shihuang. He defeated the other states and proclaimed himself Emperor, the first emperor of the Qin Dynasty, and China became united for the first time in its history. Unfortunately, Emperor Qin only lived a short time - he died in 210 BC. However, he had begun his tomb immediately upon ascension to the throne. His tomb is obvious (although he had several mounds constructed to conceal which one was actually his) since it is a mound, readily distinguishable from the surrounding landscape. However, Qin also added a special touch to his trip into the afterlife. He had an entire army of terra cotta soldiers constructed to accompany him and to protect him in the next world. No one knew about the location of this army, since the people who worked on the project were buried alive after its completion.

      This army was buried about 1.5 kilometers from his tomb where it remained hidden for almost 2,200 years. In 1974, a farmer was digging a well and discovered a terra cotta head in the well hole. When the government was told about this, they investigated and discovered the long lost treasure. What archaeologists found were four (4) pits which held the army. They excavated the first and largest pit and found thousands of life-size figures (about 6 feet tall) dressed in full battle armor and all carrying a real weapon. Pit 1 was not handles particularly well, and, thus, they are not as well preserved as subsequent pits. Pit 1 contains the infantrymen. In the 1980's, Pit 2's excavation was begun. This pit contains other types of soldiers, including kneeling archers, standing archers, and chariots. Pit 3 seems to contain the headquarters personnel, high ranking individuals and others not carrying weapons.

     We were able to see each of the pits and also an exhibition of some special pieces. The experience was utterly amazing. We were awed by the size of the pits and contents. We couldn't believe that each soldier has a face different from all the others (as of today there appears to be a total of about 8,000 soldiers). We could discern the difference in ranks and we especially liked the horses. What a treasure the Chinese people have here! Incidentally, all excavations have ceased for the time being, until the issue of long-term preservation issues can be solved. This tells me that the Chinese government appreciates what it has and plans to do the right thing over time.

     From here we went to the Old Town area of Xi'an. Xi'an is a walled Medieval city (it dates to the 1400's)  and contains many treasures of its own. We were able to see the beautiful Bell Tower (which marks the center of the city) and the Drum Tower when we reached the restaurant we would have our dumpling lunch in. Lunch was fantastic. It consisted of 16 courses of dumplings of various kinds - there were pigeon, pork, snapper, chicken, vegetable, etc.

     Next we visited a Jade Factory where we were told all about jade. Like all the factories we have seen, this place was very upscale and expensive. Finally we toured the Shaanxi (the Province which contains Xi'an) History Museum, a fascinating collection of artifacts from this region of China. We also were given a private exhibition of some of the museum's most valuable possessions and we were actually able to handle some of them using white gloves. We certainly learned a lot today.

       Today we leave Shanghai, after a final morning of sightseeing. Then we fly to Xi'an, in north central China, during the afternoon. We are hoping that the 7.9 earthquake which struck Sichuan Province, in the region of Chengdu, yesterday at around 3 PM, does not affect our trip. We were thankfully far from the quake and did not feel any tremors (although office buildings in Shanghai felt the tremors and they were evacuated for a time), but Xi'an is much closer to Sichuan and we are wondering if our flight will be modified. We will continue to update readers as we receive more information.

       A word or two about the food in China. Basically, we have not had a bad meal since we arrived although if you asked what we ate, we would have difficulty answering. The meals are all structured the same way, with several appetizers, followed by a medley of dishes which feature fish, pork, chicken and beef. There are always a large number of vegetable dishes to complement the meat. All the dishes are placed on a revolving tray (lazy susan) so that everyone at the large round table (our whole group) can share. There is no dessert (no wonder Chinese people are not overweight) but rather fruit finishes the meal. The  beer here (pijiu) is excellent! The flavors of the foods are different and usually very interesting, since they use many spices that we are unfamiliar with. We were a little worried about the restaurants since we have been on some tour excursions where the restaurants were horrible. But Pacific Delights has obviously chosen quality places both to stay in and eat in -- we're very impressed!

       A random thought that we learned yesterday from Connie, our guide: Shanghai has 2,700 buildings over 13 floors!! Imagine that!!

      

      Before we left Shanghai, we drove down to the Bund, to see it and the Pudong skyline during the daytime. The Bund is basically a promenade along the Huangpu River, which is lined with Colonial European buildings which date to the days following the Opium War (around 1840) when Europe was of given access to China for trade purposes. These buildings are in marked contrast to the buildings on the opposite side of the river, the Pudong District. Here is modern Shanghai, symbolized by the Oriental Pearl Tower, a tall pink monolith, the Jinmao Tower, until recently the tallest building in the city, and the still-being-constructed Shanghai World Financial Center, which will be the third-tallest building in the world when completed.

      When we left the Bund, we decided to take the Maglev Train to the airport. The Shanghai's Maglev train is the fastest train in the world, traveling the 35 kilometer distance from the city to the airport in just 7 minutes. It reaches a speed of 240 miles per hour!! What a great diversion!

      There was no alteration of our schedule -- things seem to be back to normal throughout most of China since flghts at the airport to even Chengdu, where the quake happened, took off without significant delay. We have arrived in Xi'an, the ancient capital of China, and home of the first emperor of the Qin Dynasty who was the first to unite China, piece together the Great Wall, and establish standard monetary and legal systems. He also was ruthless and spent much of the treasury on the construction of his tomb, which contains the Terracotta Warriors, probably the most important archaeological find of the Twentieth Century.

      We finished our day with a lovely dinner and show at Tang Dynasty Dinner Theater. The show features an extravaganza of traditional Chinese costumes and music. The Tang Dynasty, which is the focus of the show, was a period of stability and peace for China and also a period which witnessed a burgeoning of the Arts and other forms of expression. We thoroughly enjoyed the show, although it was obviously very touristy.  It was refreshing to actually hear and see examples of China's past, since much of what we have experienced are all about China's future and its emergence into the mainstream world community.

      Today we are leaving our groups and taking a separarate excursion to Suzhou, a city to the west of Shanghai which is famous for its classic Chinese gardens and the manufacture of silk, and Zhouzhuang, one of the "water villages" southwest of Shanghai. These water villages are noted for their canals. I had planned to do this excursion totally on our own, taking a train or bus and then walking through Suzhou, stopping at leisure at several of the gardens. On second thought, and after speaking to the Concierge at the hotel, we decided it would be safer and less stressful to simply take a packaged tour.

     Suzhou is a wonderful place -- a fairly compact city center that is very attractive with tree-lined streets and interesting architecture. We went to two gardens - the Humble Administrator's Garden, the largest and best known of all the gardens, and the Lion's Grove Garden, a very different type of place which uses rocks as focal points and as backdrops. The classic Chinese gardens are not filled with flowers but are rather landscape gardens. Walking in is like entering a different world, a place of peace and tranquility.

     We also visited a Silk Factory and saw the entire process from growing the worms to the finished product. It was fascinating. Suzhou is the major silk-producing area of China.

     After lunch we headed for the top water village in China, Zhouzhuang. A water village is a town with numerous waterways which are used for transport and commerce - they are much like Venice except on a much smaller scale. Zhouzhuang is adorable, although very touristy and crowded with tour groups. However, our boat ride along the canals was incredibly pleasant and tranquil.

    We returned to Shanghai too late to link up with our group for dinner, so we met them at a theater where we saw an unbelievable acrobatic show. The performers were all young boys and girls and were incredibly versatile and flexible, doing all sorts of routines using various props. It was truly special and capped a splendid day perfectly.

         We woke up today to rain. This, plus the fact that I'm upset that I will not be able to see the Temple of Heaven while in Beijing. Because this is the day of our flight to Shanghai (at 2PM this afternoon), the day is rather complex and Zhao is afraid that traffic might prevent us from linking back up with them. Instead, we are scheduled to have a pedi-cab ride through a hutong (an old-fashioned neighborhood in which the small houses are connected together on narrow lanes) -- big whoop!! Oh well, as I have said before, flexibility is a requirement when you travel.

        It was rainy in Beijing but we managed to complete our tourist agenda anyway. We drove to the Drum Tower where time was announced in the old days of Beijing. Nearby we began our pedicab (basically a rickshaw using a bicycle instead of feet). Our driver took us through one of Beijing's few remaining hutong areas to give us a flavor for "old" Beijing. Then we stopped at a house and met Mrs Wong who hosts groups like ours to allow us a glimpse into typical Chinese family life.  I'm not sure how typical Mrs Wong is because she had a picture of herself with Oprah on her sitting room wall. It really was very nice, however, and she was sweet and answered all our questions about life in a hutong.

       Next we climbed the Bell Tower (many steep, tall stairs!!) and got a nice view of Beijing although the rain and fog made it difficult to see very far. We had lunch at a noodle restaurant called The Loft (very good and different) before heading for the airport and our flight to Shanghai.

       Shanghai is very different from Beijing. Besides being a huge city (over 20,000,000 people) it is much more modern than Beijing. Its architecture is positively amazing! -- hundreds of tall buildings with unusual features. Our hotel, the Le Royal Meridien, is one of the most distinctive. 

       After a buffet dinner at our hotel we took a walk down Nanjing Road --  certainly one of the glitziest neon jungles in the world. It reminded us of Freemont Street in Las Vegas. Much of Nanjing Road is pedestrian-only. We walked all the way down to the Bund, a promenade along the Huangpu River lined with interesting Colonial era buildings which look more like Europe than China. Across the river we got our first glimpse of the Pudong, a city district which is the business and financial hub of the city. Here we saw the distinctive Oriental Pearl Tower, a pink spire with an observation area, and the Jinmao Tower, one of the tallest buildings in the world.