The Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR) was composed of many countries east of Europe. This great nation broke up in December 1991 into many individual, independent states. Many of these countries have begun to thrive since the break-up and have established and asserted themselves on the world scene. Because many of these nations are west of the Ural mountains, the traditional dividing line between Europe & Asia, they are considered European countries. The largest of these nations is Russia, the motherland. Here is my discussion of the major tourist attractions in the European part of the old USSR. A photo album will follow in the near future.

 

     1. St Petersburg, Russia

            St Petersburg, Russia, is an elegant and cultured city which has endured much Tsarist history and the consequences thereof. Lately, however, after years of deterioration and neglect, it has reemerged to its royal splendor. The city, sometimes called the “Venice of the North” is built on 42 islands, part of the delta of the Neva River as it empties into the Baltic Sea. Its grand palaces and regal facades can be best appreciated by strolling the streets, especially along the Nevsky Prospekt, a wide, imperial avenue which stretches for three miles through the most elegant part of the city. Walk into Palace Square and admire the regal Winter Palace, now one of the most famous museums in the world, the Hermitage. 

            Besides its extensive collection of masterpieces, including works by Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Rafael, El Greco, Rembrandt, Monet, Renoir, and many others, the Hermitage building is an incredible attraction itself, for this vast collection is housed in the Winter Palace, the urban residence of Russian rulers from Catherine the Great (1762) to the premature end of the reign of Nicholas II, during the Russian Revolution of 1917.

            The palace’s 1000+ rooms are dripping with opulence. Several must see areas include the Malachite Room, with its columns made from the green gem, the Great Throne Room, with its bronze and marble, and the Gallery of the 1812 War, with portraits of the generals who took part in the war against Napoleon.

            In the museum itself, the first floor contains ancient art, including relics from Egyptian, Greek, and Roman eras. It also houses the Treasure Gallery(Golden Room), which contains precious gems, jewelry, gold and silver.

            The second floor houses primarily European Art, especially of the Renaissance. Because the Russians loved the French, there is a particularly large collection of French art.

            The third floor houses more recent art, including the Impressionists, sculptures by Rodin, paintings of Picasso, Gauguin, Matisse, and many others.

            Because of its immensity, it is easy to spend the better part of a whole day in the museum.

            There are many churches in the city which are significant and worthy of a visit. In particular, St Isaac’s Cathedral, with its 16 foot thick walls and golden dome (45 pounds worth), the Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood, whose name derives from the assassination of Tsar Alexander II which took place on this spot in 1881 -- its many colored domes and mosaics are modeled after St Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow (see below), Kazan Cathedral, and Smolny Cathedral.

            The Peter and Paul Fortress, built for the defense of the city, was used as a prison and has an ominous past. It is now a museum.

            There are also many fine palaces outside the city which make great day trips. Most important is the Peterhof Palace, located about 20 miles west of St Petersburg, which was constructed in the early 1700’s by Peter the Great as his Summer Palace. Here, the grounds of the palace are perhaps more significant than the buildings.

            In the Lower Park, visitors will be impressed by the Great Cascade, an integrated collection of waterfalls, fountains, and gilded statues, and amused by the “trick fountains” which may spray water on unsuspecting individuals who step on a particular stone in the path. (Kids will love it, especially in summer!). Above the Lower Park is the Bolshoi Dvorets, a sumptuous house which has a commanding view of the entire complex.

            The Upper Park is not as interesting or fanciful, and is basically a formal garden with a central fountain, the Neptune Fountain.

            The main palace building has several notable rooms, including the Audience Hall, the ultimate in Baroque design, the Chinese Study Rooms, the Picture Gallery, with paintings by the Italian artist Rotari, the Throne Room, with its beautiful parquet floors and splendid chandeliers, and the Oak Study Room, the only vestige of Peter’s original design, since the rest of the palace was remodeled extensively.

            Also worthy of a day trip are the Pushkin Palace at Tsarskoye Selo, which contains the magnificent Catherine Palace, with its Golden Gallery, Amber Room, and Ballroom, and finally the Pavlovsk Palace, with its English-style garden.

            Purchase a multi-access ticket which allows the visitor into the Hermitage, the Treasure Gallery, the wooden Winter Palace of Peter the Great, and the Menshikov Palace.

 

     2. Moscow, Russia

            Moscow is the capital of Russia and was the center of Communism from 1917 till its ultimate downfall in 1991. It is a fairly somber city, without the exuberance of many world capitals, but this is changing. A nationalistic spirit is emerging which will probably transform the city as well.

            The city’s focal point is still, and will always be, Red Square. It is both red and beautiful. However, it is difficult for the tourist to forget the menacing reputation of the Kremlin, the vast, walled center of government and Lenin’s Mausoleum, which is still revered and visited. It is a grim reminder of Russia’s dark past. Within the walled Kremlin, there are numerous buildings, some of which may be visited. Highlights include the Armory Palace, now a museum, the Annunciation Cathedral, which was once the private chapel of the Royal Family, the Cathedral of the Archangel, which is the burial place for many Russian rulers from before the 1700’s, and several towers.

            More fanciful and less ominous is the spectacular St Basil’s Cathedral, a fantasy of brightly colored domes. St Basil’s Cathedral also known as the Church of the Intercession, located on Red Square, in the center of Moscow, was built in the 1500’s at the direction of Tsar Ivan the Terrible, who, as the legend goes, put out the eyes of the architect so that nothing as beautiful could ever be built again. The exterior certainly dazzles and is especially beautiful at night when soft lighting augments its beauty. The interior is disappointing, probably because of the dramatic contrast with its ethereal outside.

            Another icon of Moscow is the Bolshoi Theater, which is magnificently crafted and still in use as a ballet and concert venue. Try to attend a performance while in the city.

            Other worthwhile sights, on the perimeter of the city, include the Donskoy Monastery which contains Khrushchev’s grave, and the New Maiden’s Convent, with its several churches.

            Be sure to check out Moscow’s Metro stations. Their architecture is interesting and unusual, and they display thoroughly enjoyable capsules of Russia.

            Probably the most worthwhile excursion from Moscow is northeast to an area known as the Golden Ring, a group of villages with considerable charm which have preserved much of their old Russian architecture and history. The most significant of these villages are Vladimir and Suzdal. Others include Sergiyev Posad, Rostovm Yaroslavl, and Kostroma. The tourist attractions within each town tend to center around their churches and Kremlins (citadels). A popular way to sample at least some of these villages is via a Volga River cruise. 

 

      3. Vilnius, Lithuania

            Vilnius is the capital and largest city of Lithuania, one of the Baltic States which finally became independent when the Soviet Union split up. Its Old Town, Senamiestis, the largest in Europe, a Medieval maze of cobblestone streets, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Cathedral Square is a major gathering place. The Cathedral contains the lovely Chapel of St Casimir. Walk up Castle Hill to the Gediminas Tower for a great view. The presence of Vilnius University keeps this city forever young.

            While in Lithuania, if time permits, visit Palanga on the Baltic coast to experience the Northern Europe beach scene. Also in town is the famous and unique Amber Museum, with thousands of samples of the golden resin, many of which have imbedded prehistoric plants and animals.

 

     4. Talinn, Estonia

            Talinn, Estonia, another Baltic gem and World Heritage Site, has an extremely lovely and pleasant-to-walk Old Town, known as All-Linn. Spend some time drinking beer in Raekoja Plats, a square with numerous cafes, and check out the Town Hall, the oldest in Europe. Also, be sure to climb the tower of St Olaf’s Church for a great view of the city.

 

     5. Riga, Latvia

            Riga, capital of Latvia, another of the Baltic States recently separated from the Soviet Union, has a pleasant, Medieval, Old Town (Vecriga), which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While strolling the maze of streets, be sure to find Dome Square, with its Cathedral Church of Riga. Nearby is St Peter’s Church, whose spire can be climbed for a great view of the city. While in Riga, admire the architecture in the Art Nouveau District, within walking distance of Vecriga.

 

     6. Kiev, Ukraine

           Kiev (or Kyiv), Ukraine, has emerged recently not only from Soviet domination, but also as a tourist destination. The most important sites in the city, for the visitor, include the Kyiv-Cave Monastery, with its Refectory Church, Holy Trinity Gate Church, and St Sophia Monastery, with its onion domes and mosaics. The oldest part of the city, the Podil District, is worthy of a stroll.

 

     7. Yalta & the Crimean Peninsula, Ukraine

           The Crimean Peninsula of the Ukraine has long been a resort for the Russian powerful and wealthy. Lately, it has been discovered by international tourists. The region juts southward into the Black Sea from the mainland.

           The most famous town of the area is Yalta, made forever famous by the conference of Allied leaders (Stalin, Churchill, and Roosevelt) which took place here in February, 1945.

           There are numerous attractions in the Yalta vicinity. Start first in the city itself by walking the lovely seaside promenade and visiting several of its 19^th century churches.

           Just west of the city is Palace of Livadia, an Italian Renaissance-style mansion, striking in appearance with its white limestone exterior. A trail (the Sunny Path) leads from the palace for about 7 scenic kilometers (4 miles), a 1 ½ hour walk, to the Swallow’s Nest, perched on and precariously overhanging a 38 meter (120 foot) cliff beside the inland sea. This tiny castle, today, houses an Italian restaurant (of all things!) but has remained a symbol of Yalta. Swallow’s Nest is more commonly accessed via boat from the town.

           Further (17 kilometers/10 miles) west is the more magnificent Alupka Palace with its 150 ornate rooms. Note especially the Winter Garden room, with tropical plants covering its marble floors. It dramatically overlooks the sea.

           A third palace lies just east of Yalta. Massandra Palace is a yellow-bricked chalet with extensive gardens. The Rose Garden, in the Upper Park, claims to have the world’s largest collection of roses, over 2000 varieties.

           There are also several other communities on the peninsula which merit the tourist’s attention. Sudak, northwest of Yalta, has completely restored its Genoese Fortress and its extensive, crenulated walls, reminiscent of China’s Great Wall. Visitors can walk the walls and climb the occasional towers for about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles). Sevastopol, west of Yalta, has impressive limestone buildings along its broad, tree-lined avenues and many monuments to its heroes, but it is most famous for the nearby ruins of the Greek colony of Tauric Chersonesos (Khersones) which dates to about 430 BC.

            Bakhchysaray, north of Yalta and inland, boasts a reminder of the Ottoman domination of the region, Khan’s Palace, which dates to the 16^th century. Note, in particular, the ruler’s Fountain of Tears. In the vicinity is one of several Cave cities, which dot the landscape. Chufut-kale and its fascinating subterranean metropolis occupy a plateau in the area.

 

      8. Brest, Belarus

            Brest, Belarus ( the country name means “White Russia”), is located on the Polish border and, as such, has a decidedly Western connection. The city is noted for its famous Brest Fortress, a huge complex of partially-restored buildings, 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) southwest of the city center which, today, commemorates the extraordinary bravery of the soldiers who held off Hitler’s advance for an entire month at the beginning of World War II. Note the gigantic, brooding, stone face of the Valour Monument and the tall, obelisk with its eternal flame. Other sights on the property are the Kholmskie Gate, whose façade is riddled with bullet-holes, and the Thirst Statue. Finally, the Nikalaivsky Church, the oldest in the city, is also found on the grounds of the fortress.

            In town, there are numerous other churches. Notable ones include St Nikolaiv Church, St Christopher’s Church, and the St Simon Orthodox Cathedral, constructed in Russian-Byzantine style, with its gold-domed cupolas.

            About 200 miles (320 kilometers) to the northwest lies Minsk, the capital of Belarus. It is also worth a visit if time permits. The city was completely reduced to rubble during World War II, but has been attractively rebuilt with wide boulevards, large squares, and imposing buildings. Independence Square is one of the major focal points. It is flanked by the Government Building on the north, the University on the south, and, in between, the Church of St Simon and Elena, made from brick, with a tall bell tower. The inside is both dark and ornate. Off the square is the ominous KGB Building.

            The busiest square in the city is Oktyahskaya Plushchad. It boasts the Palace of the Republic (the concert hall), the Trade Union’s Cultural Palace, colonnaded in Classical style, and the somber and moving Museum of the Great Patriotic War.

            Only about 60 kilometers (36 miles) from Brest is the Belovezhskaya Pushcha Nature Reserve, which preserves the last remaining habitat of the European Bison, the continent’s largest mammal, as well as many other species.

      China has a seductive mystique. Most people in the world know little about Chinese history and culture, yet realize that China has been around for centuries. It is this mystery that enchants us and makes us want to visit and learn more about this fascinating place. Join me on a tour of China's greatest attractions. Stay tuned for the photo album which will inevitably follow.

 

      1. Great Wall of China (Changcheng)

            The Great Wall of China (Changcheng) is one of the world’s most enduring testaments to man’s presence on the planet, Earth, and it is also a brooding testament to man’s penchant for violence and aggression, since the wall was built to frustrate and resist incursions from beyond China’s borders. The wall extends some 4000 kilometers (almost 2500 miles) across northern China to the sea.

            The most accessible and most popular part of the wall, the section at Badaling, is only about 70 km (43 miles) northwest of Beijing. Because of its proximity to the Ming Tombs, it is frequented by numerous tour groups and busloads of visitors. Because of this, some may want to consider visiting other sections of the wall, if only to avoid the hordes. Probably the best alternative is the Mutianyu section, about 90 km (56 miles) northeast of Beijing. Here, access to the wall is via a strenuous one-hour climb, but there is also a cable car. Another alternative is the section at Jinshanling, about 130 km (80 miles) northeast of Beijing, where the wall is younger (about 1600 A.D.) and features circular towers and a more elaborate structure.

            The wall is a model of engineering as it winds its way across the hilly, forbidding landscape. It is over 8 meters (25 feet) high and over 7 meters (20 feet) wide in sections. Some of the wall is not restored, but hikers can still traverse long sections.

             

      2. Beijing

            Beijing, China, is certainly one of the great cities of the world. It is the political, and cultural center of the vast and heavily populated country. It has also suffered because of its importance. When China became communist, many of the old Chinese traditions were discarded, along with much of the old city. More recently, as China has begun to modernize and take its place in the world’s political and economic scene, some of the city is being razed and replaced with more modern structures. However, essential China can still be found, and some of the monuments in the city are truly timeless.

            Any visit to Beijing revolves around Tiananmen Square, the world’s largest square, which is noteworthy for its immensity, for its location and proximity to the Forbidden City, Beijing’s most visited tourist attraction, and for its notoriety associated with the student rebellion of 1989, which was brutally suppressed by the Chinese Army. Near the center of the square is Chairman Mao’s Mausoleum (no photos inside).

            The most important site for any visitor is certainly the Forbidden City (Gugon Bowuguan), a vast complex of palaces, halls, courtyards and gardens to the north of Tiananmen Square, through the famous Gate of Heavenly Peace, a Chinese icon. Must sees within the complex are the Hall of Supreme Harmony (Taihedian), Ningshou Gong Huayuan, Leshoutang, Nei Ting, the inner palace, and the Imperial Gardens.

             But there are other significant sights within Beijing which must be visited. For example, the Temple of Heaven (Tiantan), a complex of structures and their surrounding park, south of Tiananmen Square, contains the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, one of the most exquisite buildings in the world. Its blue-tiled roof and intricate ceiling are its hallmarks.

             Another must-see Beijing attraction is the Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan), about 12 kilometers (7 miles) northwest of central Beijing. This complex includes Kunming Lake, whose northern shore has the majority of worthwhile sights, especially the Long Corridor (Changlang), a covered walkway along the lake which has thousands of paintings of scenes from Chinese history, mythology, etc.

             The last of the must-sees in Beijing is the Lama Temple (Yonghegong), northeast of the Forbidden City, another complex of buildings, this time with distinctive yellow-tiled roofs. The crowning attraction within the temple is the Statue of Maitreya, a huge sculpture of Buddha, carved from a single piece of white sandalwood.

             On weekends, visit the immense flea market of Panjiayuan, to the southeast, on the outskirts of the city and bargain for treasures.

             Most visitors make an excursion to the Great Wall (see #1 above). However, try to combine this day trip with a visit to the Ming Tombs, which are about 50 kilometers (30 miles) north of the city, along the Sacred Way, a pathway of sculpted animals and historical figures.

 

     3. Hong Kong

             Hong Kong, China (at least the downtown area), is about as un-China-like as can be imagined. It appears to be a modern city of the Western World, transplanted onto the edge of the Chinese mainland as some cruel joke. But it is, in fact, a monument to capitalism and positively spectacular, with its backdrop of tall mountains, including the majestic Victoria Peak looming over stunning skyscrapers. Take the Peak Tram up to the top for glorious views of the city skyscrapers below and the harbor beyond.

             Ride the (very quick) elevator to the 43rd floor of the Bank of China building for a great view of the city.

             The central city and mountains are on an island (one of about 230 islands which make up the entire city), Hong Kong Island, which is a Mecca for business and commerce. For a look at more traditional commerce, stroll along Bonham Strand, which has shops selling Chinese medicines and herbal remedies, very different from the typical pharmacy in New York or London. Another sight on the island is the Man Mo Temple (Man is green, while Mo is red). If time permits, travel to the southern shore of the island to visit Stanley Village, for discounted goods and pretty beaches.

            Across the harbor lies the Kowloon Peninsula, with hotels, and small businesses and some of the best shopping (there are professional shoppers who can be employed to assist in finding the best bargains) in Asia, especially along Nathan Road. The Star Ferry terminal is at the southern tip (which also has stupendous views of Hong Kong Island) and the ferry ride is a must for the visitor to experience Hong Kong’s majesty from the water.

      4. Terra Cotta Warriors & Xi'an

            No one suspected that Xi’an, a former capital city of China and starting point of the Silk Road, held a secret which would become the most important archaeological find of the 20th century, until, in 1974, a farmer stumbled on a piece of sculpture which presaged this unbelievable find -- an army of life-size Terra Cotta Warriors, about a mile from the recently discovered tomb of Qin Shihuang, the first emperor of the Qin Dynasty, who became emperor in 221 B.C. Since that fateful day, archaeologists have excavated thousands of the warriors, as well as an intricately sculpted chariot, in the first three vaults. No one knows how many there are in the entire complex. Visitors are allowed to proceed on a walkway by the pits which hold the warriors. The entire area is now classified as a museum, the Qin Shihuang Bing Ma Yong Bowuguan.

           The city of Xi’an, about 30 kilometers (19 miles) west of the complex, is a major tourist destination itself. It is a walled city which is pleasant to stroll and which contains several attractions. These include Nanmen (South Gate) where the visitor can access a walk along the walls (with great views of the old city and the new), Da Qingshen Si (the Great Mosque), with its well landscaped grounds, Gulou (the Drum Tower), and the Zhonglouo (Bell Tower). Just outside the city walls are the Da Yan Ta (Great Goose Pagoda) and the Xiao Yan Ta (Small Goose Pagoda).

          

      5. Lhasa, Tibet

            Lhasa, Tibet, lies in the Khy-chu Valley, within the vast Tibetan plain, between ranges of the Himalayas. Because of its altitude, 3700 meters (over 11,000 ft), visitors must get acclimatized, so plan to spend at least several days here in order to be able to accomplish what could be done in a day or two at lower elevations. Lhasa was the home of the Dalai Lama, the head of the Buddhist religion, but, because of the invasion and subsequent takeover of the country by the Chinese, in 1959, the Dalai Lama was forced to flee. Many of Tibet’s religious buildings, and many of its people were destroyed during the reign of Chairman Mao, but hostilities and destruction have eased and a number of important Buddhist sites remain.

           The most important and most impressive attraction in Lhasa is, without doubt, the Potala Palace, whose origins go back to the 7th century. It actually consists of two parts, the White Palace, which is the outer section of the complex, the former residence of the Dalai Lama and also the government headquarters, and the Red Palace, the inner, central section and also the spiritual area. The palace complex is now a museum and visitors have access to a number of its 1,000 or so rooms.

           The most sacred structure in Tibet is the Jokhang, a complex of temples, residences, and other buildings which also date to the 600’s. It is in the center of the old city and still the focus of pilgrimages. Stroll the walkways of the complex, especially the Barkhor, admire the murals, and check out the chapels.

           Other notable sights within the city are additional temples, such as Meru Nyingba, Norbulingka, and Ramoche, and also other religious sights, such as Ani Tsahamkung, a nunnery, and the Sera, Drepung, Ganden and Nechung Monasteries.

 

      6. Li River Cruise

           A Li River Cruise is probably one of the most memorable experiences in any visit to China. The cruise begins in the city of Guilin, in south central China, and ends in Yangshuo, 96 kilometers (60 miles) to the south. The Li River is languid and shallow, but it winds its way through some of the most breathtaking and serene scenery in the world. The limestone hills rise precipitously from the river. Formed about 200 million years ago, the area is a beautiful example of the glorious effects of erosion on the landscape. Guides will describe some of the mystical legends and fairy tales which surround some of the named features along the river. The entire cruise takes about 6 hours, four of those composed of the journey downstream, then a 2 hour bus ride back to Guilin. Lunch is served on board the boat.

           While in Guilin, explore Seven Star Park, which contains the beautiful Flower Bridge and Light of China Square, among other sights. At the southern terminus of the boat trip, explore West Street in the village of Yangshuo.

 

      7. Shanghai

           If Beijing (see above) is the political and cultural center of China, Shanghai is the economic center, and one of the country’s most progressive locations. With a past that is associated with opium parlors and decadence, this one-time fishing village at the mouth of the Yangtze River has morphed into a business and commercial force in the world economy.

           Sightseers should plan to spend the majority of time in the old part of the city, Puxi (west of the river), on the Nanjing Lu, Shanghai’s busiest street, strolling through the Yu Garden, and walking along the Wai Tan (the Bund), the riverside avenue. For museum lovers, there is the Shanghai Museum.

           Not far from Shanghai are several interesting towns, known as “water villages”, which are a delight to explore. These include Suzhou, whose Grand Canal purports to be the longest man-made waterway in the world and whose gardens are world-famous (check out, in particular, Lingering Garden and the Humble Administrator’s Garden), Xitang, which dates to the Ming Dynasty period and boasts over 100 bridges, and Zhouzhuang, with its beautiful, arched, stone bridges and tile-roofed homes.

 

      8. Stone Forest, Kunming

           The Stone Forest, near Kunming, in southwestern China, is a geologically unusual area, in which erosion has produced thousands of vertical limestone rocks jutting upward, close together, as if a forest of rocks (hence the name). The rocks have interesting shapes which, in many cases, have a resemblance to creatures and people, and so have been given appropriate names. The area is about 125 kilometers (80 miles) southeast of the city. Access to the area, known as Shilin, is either by train (which takes 2 hours one-way) or by bus (4 hours one-way, because of numerous stops).  

 

      9. Yangtze Cruise

           The Yangtze River is the longest river in China and the third longest in the world. The river has long been used for commerce and its waters have provided irrigation for much of China’s most fertile farmland. More recently, because of annual flooding and because of the need for electricity, the Chinese government has begun the Three Gorges Dam Project, which will ultimately supply about 33% of the nation’s energy needs. Cruises are offered (and are extremely popular) which traverse the part of the river in the Three Gorges area because of the spectacular scenery afforded by the sheer cliffs rising vertically from the river. Many tour operators are available and the duration of the cruise, as well as the starting and ending locations vary with the choice of operator.

            Be sure your cruise includes a visit to Shibaozhai, a 17th century pagoda, built on the side of a cliff, overlooking the river.

 

      10. Chengdu

             Chengdu, China, is best known for its Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, which can be visited. Here, there are a number of pandas in beautiful habitats and a breeding area for those special times. Because these creatures have always been beloved by people around the world, this venue has become increasingly popular as a tourist sight.

             The best time to view Giant Pandas is in the morning when they are most active.

             The most important excursion from the city is approximately 160 kilometers (100 miles) south to Leshan City to view the Giant Buddha of Leshan, the world’s largest Buddha rock sculpture, 71 meters (230 feet) tall, which is carved into a mountainside and looks out over the junction of three rivers. Nearby is Emei Mountain, one of China’s most sacred mountains, which has numerous Buddhist temples on its flanks.

      The Middle East is the cradle of civilization whose roots go back as far as the Assyrians, in the Tigris-Euphrates valley over 5,000 years ago. Because this area has been inhabited for so long, the amount of history here is staggering. Unfortunately, this area is also one of the most volatile in the world. It seems that there is constant strife, with neighbors always pitted against neighbors. Thus, it is a dangerous area to travel to. Tourists are admonished to be always vigilant, and to avoid certain countries. If the traveler is willing to take the risk, the travel rewards are immense. Here are some of the sights you might be able to experience. Photos will follow at a later date.

 

      1. Jerusalem, Israel

            Jerusalem, Israel, is, without question, one of the most important tourist sites in the world. It is and has been a pilgrimage site for worshippers of three of the world’s major religions: Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. Unfortunately, it is also an area of tremendous unrest and conflict, which makes travel here extremely risky at certain times.

            The focus of tourism in Jerusalem is the old, walled city, a tight maze of cobblestone streets which is actually composed of four ethnic neighborhoods, the Jewish Quarter, the Armenian Quarter, the Muslim Quarter, and the Christian Quarter, which coexist but try hard not to co-mingle.

            Must-see sights in the old city include the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, a church built on what is thought to be the site of the crucifixion of Jesus of Nazareth, the founder of Christianity. The church itself is shared by several Christian religions, Roman Catholic, Armenian, Greek Orthodox, and Copt, and preserves several important relics, for example, the Stone of Unction, where Jesus was prepared for burial, and Golgotha, the hillock where the actual crucifixion took place.

            Another important tourist attraction is the Dome of the Rock, and the area on which it sits, the Temple Mount, site of the original Judaic temple, built by King Solomon, and thought to be the location where Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son, Isaac, as described in the Old Testament. It is also considered to be the spot where Muhammad rose into heaven to receive Islam’s teachings from God.

            A third major focus for tourists is the Western Wall, which is an extremely holy site for Jews. They believe that this wall was a remnant from the Temple Mount built by King Herod, and Jews from all over the world come here to pray and offer devotion.

            The Via Dolorosa is a walk along what is thought to be the route that Jesus Christ took when led to his crucifixion. It is displayed in almost every Christian church in the world as the “Stations of the Cross”. “Processions” take place frequently and involve prayers at the various stops (“Stations”) along the way. This pilgrim path takes about an hour (note that the last 5 “stations” are inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher).

            In West Jerusalem, tourists will find the very worthwhile Israel Museum, which, besides some wonderful art, displays the Dead Sea Scrolls, the oldest manuscripts of the Old Testament, dated to the second century B.C. and the Yad Vashem, a very emotional memorial to the Holocaust.

            For a classic view and great photograph of the city of Jerusalem, drive or take a cab to the Mount of Olives Observation Point, east of the old city.

            Visitors can walk the walls of the old city, gaining access at either the Jaffa Gate or the Damascus Gate.

            A popular excursion from Jerusalem is to Bethlehem which lies in the area, just 10 kilometers (6 miles) east of Jerusalem, known as the West Bank, because it is located on the western bank of the Jordan River. It is a particularly holy pilgrimage site for Christians because it was the birthplace of Jesus of Nazareth. The actual stable where Jesus was thought to be born is below Manger Square, the central plaza in Bethlehem, and, on the square, in commemoration of this pivotal event, is the Church of the Nativity.

 

     2. Petra, Jordan

            Petra, Jordan, was once thought to be a city, carved into the sides of cliffs, in an area of Jordan, just northeast of the southern Israeli border at the city of Eilat. The builders of the place were the Nabateans, transplants from Arabia who settled this area in the 4th century B.C. The remains which can be seen today were probably constructed in the 1st century A.D. Entry through the Siq, a narrow passage between the rock walls, affords a view very familiar to movie fans. At the end of Indiana Jones, the Last Crusade, Harrison Ford rides through this very part of the city. The most notable and also most-recognized building in the city is the Khazneh, the Treasury Building, as it is known, with it beautiful columns and sculptures. Other significant stops should include the High Place of Sacrifice, accessible via stairs, the Temple of the Winged Lions, built around 27 A.D., and some of the many tombs which are found throughout the area. Recently, archaeologists have discovered that Petra was in actuality a necropolis, or cemetery, and not a city, and that all the buildings carved into the stone, including the Treasury were mausoleums. The more elaborate the structure, the more important the family or person buried.

 

      3. Damascus, Syria

            Damascus, Syria, claims to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world and is a living history museum which can unfold for the visitor. It was an extremely influential city during the 3rd millennium B.C. and, later, became the capital of the first Arab State, in 661 A.D. After a period of decline, it emerged again, when Syria became an independent nation in 1946.

            Tourism in Damascus centers around the Old City, whose walls date to Roman times. The Omayyad Mosque, built in 705 A.D. has become a model for mosques throughout the world of Islam. Azem Palace, whose plain, simple exterior, belies the beauty and intricacy of the interior, with its multi-colored stone, cascading fountains, and lovely gardens. The Damascus Citadel is a city within the city, and was built in the late 11th century to fortify the headquarters of generals who were garrisoned here during the Crusades. The streets (Souqs) of the old city are lined with shops selling, among other things, spices (Damascus was called “the Fragrant City”), crafts, food, and clothing.

            Outside the old city is Al Takieh-Suliemanieh, an example of Ottoman architecture which dates to 1554, and St Paul’s Church, a tribute to the famous preacher and writer of the Epistles of the New Testament.

 

     4. Baalbek, Lebanon

            Baalbek, Lebanon, is the site of one of the best preserved Roman ruins in the world. The town, named after the Phoenician God, Baal, lies in the mountains of Lebanon, about 90 kilometers (50 miles) northeast of Beirut. The site is known for its three temples, the Temple of Jupiter, the Temple of Venus, and the Temple of Bacchus, the Roman God of wine and revelry, whose temple here is even larger than the Parthenon. It is the largest complex of Roman temples ever built. The columns are the tallest, and the rocks are the largest ever used. The entire Acropolis was erected in the 2nd and 3rd centuries, A.D. and also contains ceremonial entrances (Propylea) similar to those in Athens.

 

      5. Masada, Israel

            Masada, Israel, is another important Jewish pilgrimage place. Located on a mountaintop southeast of Jerusalem, it was the site of one of King Herod’s desert palaces. It became the scene of a last ditch battle between the Jews and the Romans, in the first century A.D. Only seven of the almost 1,000 people stranded on the mountaintop survived.

 

      6. Sana'a, Yemen

            Sana’a, Yemen is an ancient city, dating to the 1st century AD. It was an important stop along a major trade route from the Gulf of Aden to the Middle East and beyond. Most of its 6-9 meter (20-30 ft) high walls of clay are still intact. Its ancient houses, some of which date to 1000 AD, are known as “tower houses” and the distinctive architecture is a major characteristic of the city.

            The Great Mosque, only one of numerous mosques in the city, is one of the largest in Islam and was built during the time of Mohammed (in the 600‘s). It has Persian-style minarets and dominates the city’s skyline. Also of note are the Liberty Gate, one of the city’s original gates, which is over 700 years old, the 15 or so steam baths, and the numerous markets, the most important of which is the Salt Market.

            Note that, a the time of publication of this book, American travelers to Yemen are strongly cautioned concerning safety, since known terrorist groups are actively operating in this nation.

      Ireland is the fun-loving country famous for St Patrick, Leprechauns, the Irish Jig, and River Dance. It is also an ancient Celtic country with roots that go back thousands of years. In America, it is famous because so many Irish came to the US in the late 1800's to escape the potato famine and to find a new life. Many of their descendants are returning to Ireland to visit, joining huge numbers of tourists from around the world.

     Sit back and join me on a tour of this fabled "Land of the Green". A photo album will eventually follow.

 

     1. Dublin

           Dublin, Ireland, is the Irish capital and largest city. The Medieval Quarter includes two of Ireland’s great churches: St Patrick’s Cathedral which dates from the 12th century and contains the tomb of Jonathan Swift, among other notables, and Christ Church Cathedral, whose origins are even older. The stonework in the latter is particularly impressive.

           Just east of the Medieval quarter is Dublin Castle. This complex dates to the early 13th century and, as a royal residence, is worthy of a look inside. Nearby is Trinity College, which, besides being a world-famous center of learning, contains the Book of Kells, a manuscript of the four Gospels, in Latin, which is thought to have been published in about 800 A.D. and is, therefore, the oldest significant text from early Celtic Christianity (one page per day is turned for public viewing). The college itself is picturesque with cobbled squares, elegant buildings, and pleasant gardens.

           The Guinness Brewery (although tours are no longer conducted) and the General Post Office, which figured prominently in Ireland’s struggle for independence, are also worth a look. St Stephen’s Green and Phoenix Park are two “green” areas within the city limits which offer a quiet alternative to the hustle and bustle of the city.

           Don’t forget to spend some time in several of Dublin’s numerous Irish Pubs.

           While in Trinity College, see the Dublin Experience, a 45-minute multi-media show which documents the history of Dublin. It can serve as a great introduction to the city for first-timers.

 

     2. Kilkenny

           Kilkenny City, in the county of Kilkenny, in the southern part of Ireland, has the best-preserved Medieval buildings in all of Ireland. Kilkenny Castle is a classic castle of the period and dates from the 13th century. Also check out Kyteler’s Inn, possibly the oldest building in town, the dramatic Town Hall, called Tholsel because it was once the toll house, the Rothe House (a merchant’s house in the Tudor style which is now a museum), St Canice Cathedral, with its interesting carvings of wood and stone, marble floors and huge tower, and the Black Abbey, which has now been totally restored from its earlier modifications at the order of Oliver Cromwell.

 

     3. Giant's Causeway, Northern Ireland

          Giant’s Causeway forms a three mile section of the Northern Ireland coastline and consists of about 40,000 tightly-packed, vertical columns of basalt which seem like stepping stones. Scientists believe that these hexagonal structures are of volcanic origin and were formed by cooling lava. Of course, there are more fanciful legends about their origin, given that this is Ireland. Any visit here should begin at the Visitor Center, which runs a 25 minute audiovisual show about the formation and history of the attraction continuously throughout the day. The Giant’s Causeway is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

          Instead of the shuttle bus from the Visitor Center to the sight, take the circular walk.

 

     4. Ring of Kerry

          The Ring of Kerry, Ireland’s best scenic drive, begins in Killarney, in the western part of the country. The entire loop is about 175 kilometers (110 miles) and winds among mountains, lakes, and rugged seacoast. Traffic is usually slow due to the popularity of the drive and the numerous tour buses which travel the route. Don’t be in a hurry and stop frequently at overlooks and to explore the villages along the route (primarily the N70). If there is time for only one village en route, it should be Kenmare, a delightful little town, well-manicured and cared-for, in a lovely setting. There are also several islands which can be visited along the way, depending on time and weather.

 

     5. Kinsale

          Kinsale, Ireland, is a charming, seaside community which attracts tourists with its setting as a fishing village, its narrow streets, perfect for strolling, its well-kept homes with their floral accents, and its great restaurants, a direct result of its annual Gourmet Festival. Sights which should be included in a visit to Kinsale include Charles Fort and Desmond Castle.

          A possible day trip from Kinsale might include a visit to Blarney Castle, in County Cork, just west of the city of Cork, world-famous, of course, because of the Blarney Stone, a rock underneath a part of the castle walls, which, if kissed, is supposed to grant eloquence, otherwise known as “blarney” in the Irish vernacular. If everyone who has kissed the Blarney Stone, were granted eloquence, this would be a world of orators. However, the legend is all in good fun, and many tourists believe that a trip to Ireland without kissing the stone doesn’t count as a visit.

 

      6. Cliffs of Moher

           The Cliffs of Moher, one of Ireland’s premier natural wonders, are found on the coast of County Clare, in the western region of the country. These dramatic cliffs, almost 270 meters (800 feet high), stretch for over five miles. Obviously, there are great views from the cliffs and especially from the O’Brien Tower, at the northern end of the area. Stop in at the Visitor Center for more information.

 

     Scandinavia includes the northern European countries of Norway, Sweden, Finland, as well as the North Atlantic island of Iceland. The history of this area is intimately associated with fishing and other maritime pursuits, the Vikings being an excellent example. Ethnic characteristics include the Aryan features of blonde hair and blue eyes. Visitors typically find that these countries exhibit many differences from the rest of Europe, especially their embrace of modernity. However, the past is also proudly displayed and a visit here can be extremely rewarding.

     This is my take on the "best" that Scandinavia has to offer. Look for a photo album in the near future.

 

     1. Fjordland & Bergen, Norway

           The Fjords of Norway offer some of the most breathtaking scenery, certainly in Europe, and arguably in the world. It is an inhospitable land, which extends above the Arctic Circle. Norway’s coastline is extremely rugged with myriad indentations where the sea encroaches. This coastal landscape was carved by glaciers which are still evident. Some fjords are up to 100 miles long and extremely deep. Numerous waterfalls can be seen throughout Fjordland.

           Coastal steamer is probably the best way to see the fjords although there are a number of cruise ships which traverse the coastline during the late spring and summer. Most of these steamers leave from the city of Bergen and passage can be booked, much like a cruise ship, for up to 12 days with meals and a cabin included. The steamers operate year round since the coast usually remains ice-free in the winter.

           Villages which are a particular delight to explore include Trondheim which is an interesting city with a Medieval past, exemplified by its timbered houses and Gothic Nidaros Cathedral, Bodo, which offers excursions to the Lofoten Islands and access to the Saltstraumen Eddy, a noisy whirlpool created by tidal forces in the narrow channel, Narvik, with its dramatic Gondolbanen (cable car), Hammerfest, and Honningsvag, the world’s northernmost village.

           Bergen is a fascinating port city on the western coast of Norway, with many sights and much history, particularly Viking history. It also serves as the primary gateway to Fjordland.

           While in Bergen, be sure to stroll through Bryggen, the remains of the Medieval, Hanseatic League (an alliance of trading guilds which comprised the countries bordering the Baltic Sea) town which evolved into the modern city of Bergen. Bryggen is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Also visit Troldhaugen, the summer villa of composer, Edvard Grieg, and Mariakirke, St Mary’s Church, one of the most beautiful and possibly the oldest church in Norway. Hakonshallen is all that remains of the royal residence. Guided tours of this and the Rosenkrantz Tower are offered approximately every hour.

 

     2. Copenhagen, Denmark

           Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, is the largest city in Scandinavia, yet retains a walkability that makes it charming to visit. As a matter of fact, its Stroget is the longest and oldest pedestrian street in Europe. There are canals and narrow streets as well as the hustle and bustle of an active port.

           The most important sights for the tourist visiting Copenhagen are several castles/palaces: Christiansborg Palace, which is the seat of political power in Denmark and has been for many hundreds of years (it houses the Danish Parliament, the Supreme Court, the Prime Minister’s offices and the royal reception rooms), Rosenborg Castle, which is the repository for the Danish Crown Jewels and the Treasury, and also encompasses the King’s Garden and the Botanical Gardens, and Amalienborg Palace, which is the current home of the Danish royal family and which has a Changing of the Guard ceremony at noon when the family is in residence.

           The symbol of Copenhagen, however, is the Statue of the Little Mermaid, sculpted in 1913 on rocks just offshore, which is reminiscent of Hans Christian Anderson, the famous native son who authored so many children’s stories. Another attraction, geared for the child in all of us, is Tivoli Gardens, a combination amusement park/flower garden in the center of town.

           An interesting excursion lies only about 30 kilometers west of the city where visitors will find the city of Roskilde, once the most important city in Denmark. Its cathedral, Roskilde Domkirke, is the final resting place for many Danish monarchs. Also in the city is the Viking Ship Museum, which has on display five Viking vessels which have been painstakingly pieced together.

 

      3. Stockholm, Sweden

            Stockholm, Sweden, is a city built on fourteen islands within Lake Malaren. Because of the proximity of the Baltic Sea, it is a major port. It is both a modern city with tall buildings as well as a place which has preserved much of its Medieval history. Stockholm’s Old Town, Gamla Stan, is thoroughly pleasant to walk, with narrow streets, open squares and numerous bridges. Be sure to check out the Royal Palace, Kungliga Slottet where, besides a visit inside to see the sumptuous rooms, there is the obligatory Changing of the Guard, which takes place at noon each day except Sunday (1:00 PM). There is also an associated parade during the summer months. Also in the Old Town, visit the Great Church, Storkyrkan, which contains a particularly stunning sculpture of St George and the Dragon. A walking tour of Gamla Stan should also include stops at several squares, such as, Tortorget (Great Square), and Jarntorget (Iron Square).

          North of the Old Town is Norrmalm, the business and commercial district. Here one finds elegant shopping areas and pedestrian-friendly streets in a pleasant, very modern atmosphere.

          To the east is Ostermalm, which contains the world’s first National City Park, Djurgarden. Major attractions in the park include Skansen, an open-air museum consisting of more than 150 buildings, many of which provide demonstrations of Swedish handcrafting. There are also concerts and folk-dancing. The park also contains Vasa, a royal warship from the 17th century, which has been lovingly and carefully restored.

          Other sights in the Stockholm area include Drottningholm Palace and Theater, the Swedish royal residence, and Millesgarden, the villa of Sweden’s greatest sculptor, Carl Miller.

          While in Stockholm, be sure to sample Sweden’s famous smorgasbord, a long table loaded with many delectable dishes, especially seafood.

 

     4. Golden Circle & Reykjavik, Iceland

          The Golden Circle is a fairly short scenic loop from the Icelandic capital of Reykjavik. It takes in several of the famous attractions of the island and can be done in a single day. Gullfoss (Golden Falls) is one of these attractions. The falls are 35 meters (105 feet) high and thunder in two cascades into a chasm. A Visitor Center is available for information.

          Thingvellir National Park is perhaps the most important area along the drive. Here, visitors can experience Plate Tectonics (the theory that the surface of the earth is made up of plates which are riding on a conveyor-belt-like mantle and can collide or interact with one another in various ways) in action, for here the Eurasian Plate, which includes Europe and Asia, is separating from the North American Plate (USA, Canada, Mexico, and part of Central America). Visitors can actually walk down into the rift caused by this separation.

          Incidentally, the Plate Tectonics idea explains why Iceland is so active geologically -- it was formed from an upwelling of material from the mantle to fill in the void created by the separation of the two continental plates. A more recent example of this action was the birth of the island of Surtsey, just south of Iceland, which began in a series of eruptions that eventually lifted it above sea level in 1963. Other evidence is the fact that most of Iceland’s electricity is produced from geothermal power.

          Thingvellir is also a religious site, a place which, in Icelandic lore, had to do with the Guardian of the Laws.

          The third major attraction along the route is Geysir, actually the name for a now-dormant geyser which fascinated tourists until 1916 when it abruptly stopped erupting. The current attraction is Strokkur (The Churn), another geyser in the area, which boasts mud pots and steam vents and other geothermal features.

          While in the area, be sure to spend some time in Reykjavik itself, one of the most expensive destinations in the world.

          Another unique experience in the Reykjavik vicinity is the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa which can be visited year round.

 

      5. Oslo, Norway

          Oslo, Norway, is a rather small capital city, by European standards. It is most accessible by boat via the Oslofjorden, a rather dramatic entry through a narrow channel surrounded by woods. The city center is fairly compact, pleasant to walk, and contains several attractions, such as Oslo Dunkirk (Oslo Cathedral), and the distinctive Radhuset or Town Hall, as well as numerous museums.

          A bit further a field, on the Bygdoy Peninsula, a short ferry ride from the city center, are more museums, a few of which deserve mention. Here the visitor will find the Viking Ship Museum, the Kon-Tiki Museum, and the Norwegian Folk Museum.

          Another sight, just out of the city center, is Vigeland Sculpture Park, a tribute to Gustav Vigeland, Norway’s greatest sculptor.

          A great side trip from Oslo is the “Norway in a Nutshell” trip via train, bus, and boat. The round trip begins early, in Oslo, with the Oslo-to-Bergen train. In Bergen, take the fast coastal ferry to Sognefjord and the town of Balestrand. From here another boat brings the visitor to Flam. Then it is onto the Flam-to-Myrdal train, a spectacular ride from sea level to the top of a plateau and the Myrdal Train Station. The last leg is the train back to Oslo. This entire trip, with an overnight stop in Bergen (see above), provides a wonderful introduction to the best of Norway.

 

      6. Visby, Sweden

          Visby, Sweden, was, during the late 12th and 13th centuries, the center for trade in Northern Europe, and the residence of the most powerful Hanseatic merchants. Even though its prominence did not last for long, its walls and medieval buildings evoke memories of its greatness. A walking tour of the city should include Maiden’s Tower and the Powder Tower, as well as the old Hanseatic Harbor and the ruins of several churches, the Cathedral of Saint Mary and the Dominican Monastery of St Nicholas.

          Visby is on the island of Gotland, the ancient home of the Goths, Rome’s perpetual adversary. The island is worth touring as well.

 

      7. Helsinki, Finland

          Helsinki, Finland, does not have an ancient city center with Medieval buildings like many of its neighbors. However, being a more modern city, it has stunning and elegant 19th century Neo-classical architecture and is sure to please. It is also fairly compact and pleasant to walk, especially in the summertime. The architectural center of Helsinki is, without doubt, Senate Square, with its beautiful, white Lutheran Cathedral as its focus. There are numerous museums which are geared around someone or some aspect of Finland’s past.

          There are other sights on some of the nearby islands which can be accessed via ferry from Market Square. The most important of these are the Suomenlinna Fortress, hose fortifications were erected to protect the maritime approach to Helsinki. Another worthwhile attraction is the Seurasaari Open Air Museum, which contains about 100 authentically furnished buildings, characterizing the history of Finland.

          Saunas are an important part of Finnish culture and should be sampled while in the area.

          For an interesting excursion, drive (or take a train or bus) west about 160 kilometers (100 miles) to the city of Turku, Finland’s oldest city (1229) and its former capital. Be sure to see its Cathedral which contains the tombs of many influential Scandinavians, and its Castle, which dates to the 13^th century. There are also numerous museums for those so-inclined.

 

      8. Odense, Denmark

           Odense, Denmark, on the island of Funen, is the birthplace of fairytale writer, Hans Christian Andersen, so any visit here is all about Denmark’s favorite son. Stop in at his birthplace and/or at his house. Both are popular tourist attractions. Andersen’s plays are performed outdoors during the summer.

           In the southern part of the city is the Gothic St Canute’s Cathedral, which has an impressive golden altar screen. Further south and out of the city proper is Egeskov Castle, which is considered by some to be the best Renaissance castle in Europe. Whether or not that statement is true, Egeskov is certainly in a romantic setting, in the middle of a small lake. Its extensive and beautiful gardens are a delight to stroll.

       Belgium, Netherlands, and Luxembourg comprise the Benelux countries, small countries between northeastern France and western Germany. Over the years, they have been overrun numerous times during wars or disputes between the larger European powers. However, they have maintained their cultures in spite of the oppression, and have emerged recently as powerful and important members of the European Union.

       Below are descriptions of some of their major tourist sights. A photo album will soon follow.

 

      1. Amsterdam, Netherlands

             Amsterdam, the Netherlands’ most famous city, is well known throughout the world for its tolerance and laissez-faire attitude. Marijuana smoking and possession is allowed and prostitution is tolerated. But this large city with its many canals has much more to offer than a refuge for wayward souls.

             The major attraction in Amsterdam is the Anne Frank House. At Prinsengracht 263, visitors can walk behind the bookcase and climb the ladder to the attic where eight Jews hid from the Germans during World War II, for almost two years. Various multimedia exhibits chronicle the construction of the hiding place, the arrangements with helpers who supplied food and other necessities, the conditions under which these poor people lived, and finally their fate. In addition, there are discussions of the holocaust and its ramifications. The entire experience is carefully orchestrated and is moving and extremely well done. Plan on waiting in line to enter. The queue is often long, so plan to arrive early, when the attraction opens, to minimize the wait.

             Other notable sights in the city include the Rijksmuseum, which specializes in the Dutch masters, particularly Rembrandt, the Royal Palace, which is located on the hectic and noisy Dam Square, and several churches, such as, Niewe Kerk (also on Dam Square), and Oude Kerk. Also of note are the Begijnhof, the old city’s almshouse, and, of course, the Red Light District, where prostitutes flaunt their wares behind large windows under red awnings.

             Take a canal boat tour to get oriented to the layout of Amsterdam. There are many stops to embark or disembark. There are several different routes and the ticket allows travelers to get off one and get on another.

             A fantastic excursion from the city is southwest to Keukenhof Gardens, in the town of Lisse. It is like a theme park centered on flowers. Especially in the spring, the area is alive with the bright colors of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and many other bulbs for which the country is famous. Stroll the extensive pathways and admire the meticulous landscaping. Stop at the various pavilions for an immersion in other types of flowers, such as, orchids and bromeliads which are not hardy in the Middle Latitudes. Interspersed with all this color and greenery are interesting sculptures, wonderful playgrounds for kids, ponds and streams, and even a windmill. It makes a wonderful day trip from Amsterdam, and can even be visited by bicycle since Holland has extensive bike paths throughout the country. It ranks as one of the most beautiful gardens in the world.

 

      2. Brussels, Belgium

             Brussels is Belgium’s capital and largest city, yet its town-like center contains a number of notable sights. The premier attraction is, without doubt, the Grand Place, Brussels’ main square. It is arguably the most elegant square in all of Europe. The Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) is positively magnificent with its 70 meter (215 foot) tall tower and its numerous statues, spires, and gargoyles. Because Brussels was the headquarters for many of the Medieval Guilds, preludes to modern Unions, their administrative buildings were showplaces, displaying their wealth and power for all to see. There was also some obvious rivalry which contributed to the elaborate and decorative structures. Stop in at the tourist office for a map of the square and descriptions of the various buildings.

             The center of the Grand Place is covered with a carpet of multicolored begonias every other year during the third week of August. Quite a spectacle!

             Near the Grand Place is the iconic statue of Manneken Pis, a symbol of Brussels since the 15th century. It is a statue of a small boy who is relieving himself and one wonders what all the attention is about, but people flock to see his steady stream. He is dressed, from time to time (on holidays), in various costumes and his costumes are on display in the Musee de la Ville, on the main square.

             Further a field, but still within walking distance and worthy of a visit is the Royal Palace, the Notre Dame du Sablon church, and nearby, the Place du Petit-Sablon, an adorable little square of greenery surrounded by a wrought iron fence topped with numerous statues.

             Be sure to have a Belgian waffle, not in a restaurant, but from a street vendor or stand.

             For a regal treat, stop in at Mary Chocolatier, in the Upper Town, somewhat near the Royal Palace, for some chocolates to die for.

             A bit further away are the Atomium, a huge model of an Iron molecule, a remnant of the 1958 World’s Fair, and Minieurope, which has miniature scale models of many of Europe’s great structures. Both these sights are great for kids.

 

      3. Bruges, Belgium

            Bruges, Belgium, is a picture-perfect time capsule of the Middle Ages and one of the most delightful towns in all of Europe. Called the “Venice of the North” because of the numerous canals which traverse the city, it also has two splendid squares (the Markt and the Burg) which provide a glimpse into the architecture and lifestyle of Belgians in the past.

             Other notable sights include the Basilica of the Holy Blood, which houses a relic (a cloth with the reputed coagulated blood) of Jesus Christ along with a beautiful interior, and the Church of Our Lady, whose spire dominates the skyline of Brugge, and whose Michelangelo sculpture, Madonna and Child, is one of the few examples of the great artist’s work that can be seen outside of Italy.

             Brugge is an ideal city for walking (cars are not permitted in the town center), so stroll the narrow streets and stop occasionally in the squares for a Belgian beer (among the best in the world) and perhaps a treat.

             Take a canal boat cruise for a different perspective on the city and delight in the tranquility of the setting.

 

      4. Delft, Netherlands

             Delft, Netherlands is a pretty, little town, famous for its blue and white earthenware called Delftware. It is available at many shops in town, but look for the stamp “De Porcelyne Fles” which denotes the traditional, hand painted method. One shop on the main square even offers demonstrations of the process. The town square is very pleasant, anchored by the Town Hall at one end and the Niewe Kerk (New Church) at the other end. The New Church dates to the late 14th century and contains the very intriguing tomb of William the Silent which is adorned with many figures and objects, some religious and some secular. The spire of the church is very tall (almost 400 feet) and dominates the skyline of the town.

             The Oude Kerk (Old Church), founded around 1200, can also be visited (combination tickets include both). It houses the tombs of many important and famous Dutchmen, particularly Jan Vermeer, the artist, and Antoni van Leeuwenhoek, the inventor of the microscope.

             Stroll the village and soak up the Dutch ambiance of quiet, cobblestone streets pierced by canals.

             For a well-deserved break while in Delft, stop off at Stads, near the Tourist Information Office, for a bite to eat or drink. It’s a great place to try Dutch pancakes or Pannenkoechen (more like thin pizza than pancakes) with various toppings. While there, check out the restrooms!

             From Delft, visitors should plan on an excursion to see the Dikes and Windmills which have been associated with Holland for centuries. Because the “low countries” (Belgium and the Netherlands) are mostly at or below sea level, the residents had to find ways to prevent flooding during high tides or storms. They erected dikes and used windmills to pump water back into the sea. Windmills, in particular, dotted the landscape for many years.

             Today, there are other ways to hold back the sea, so the windmills are disappearing. However, UNESCO has preserved a cluster of them in the Kinderdijk area as a World Heritage Site. Here one can walk along the canal and see 19 working windmills. It is a spectacular sight and worth a short stop during a trip to the Netherlands.

 

     5. Luxembourg City, Luxembourg

             Luxembourg City is an elegant city with an old town which harkens to its history of siege and battle. It is a veritable fortress, rising above the Petrusse River (really not much more than a stream). The old town is fairly compact, easy to walk, and includes a number of significant sights.

             The main gathering place in town is the Place d’ Armes, a cute little square lined with shops and cafes. Nearby attractions include the Place de la Constitution, with its Memorial Column and great views across the river to the new town, the Notre Dame Cathedral, the Palace of the Grand Dukes, an elegant building constructed with light-colored stone, and, of course, the Fortifications which can be viewed along the Promenade de la Corniche, a pleasant walkway along the edge of the river valley.

 

     6. The Hague, Netherlands

             The Hague, Netherlands’ seat of government (despite Amsterdam being the major city), is an elegant and stately city, just 43 miles (about 60 kilometers) southwest of Amsterdam. Internationally, the city is well-known as the location of the World Court, housed in the Peace Palace. As a result of its presence here, there are over 60 foreign embassies in the area.

             One of the most important tourist sights is the Binnenhof, a former hunting lodge which now houses the official governmental branches of the country. At the center of the complex is the Ridderzaal (the Hall of the Knights) which is decorated with flags of the provinces and coats of arm from the various cities.

             Also of note are several palaces, Noordeinde, where the reigning monarch and her staff are employed, and Huis ten Bosch (House in the Woods Palace), which is the royal residence and can be found east of the city.

             A great attraction for both adults and children can be found north of the city center, in Westbroek Park. Madurodam is “Holland in miniature”, a sprawling assemblage of towns, buildings, roads, etc. where things actually move -- fascinating and captivating!

      Croatia is a relative newcomer on the tourist scene of Europe, but it has exploded into popularity because of its well-preserved Medieval villages and great beaches. It is also, at this point, cheaper than Western Europe and, therefore, somewhat of a bargain. Here are my picks for the best of Croatia. A photo album will soon follow.

 

      1. Dubrovnik

             Dubrovnik, Croatia, is a perfectly preserved Medieval city on the eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea. Dubrovnik has a special charm because its city walls -- the marble-paved squares, cobbled streets and beautiful buildings of old town, Stari Grad, -- were all made with the same light-colored stone, which contrasts nicely with the honey-colored roofs.

             Walk the city walls, some of the finest and most intact in the world, with their round and square towers and other fortifications, and get great views of the Dalmatian coast. Entry into the city is usually through the Pile Gate which opens to the city’s major promenade, the Placa or Stradun, a pedestrian walkway which leads to the Clock Tower. Notice the Onofrio Fountain, the Franciscan Monastery, and the Orlando Column en route. Nearby are the Sponza Palace and St Blaise’s Church, done in baroque style.

             Other sights worth visiting include the Cathedral and the Rector’s Palace, as well as the Jesuit Monastery and the Dominican Monastery, the largest in the city.

 

     2. Zagreb

            Zagreb is the capital of Croatia, and, although a large city, preserves an interesting and rather pleasant Old Town. The current city began as two towns which merged and subsequently expanded. Of interest to the tourist are the Upper Town, which houses St Stephen’s Cathedral, now renamed the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which still has remnants of the Medieval church destroyed by an earthquake, and its Archepiscopal Palace. Other attractions include the Lotrscak Tower, St Catherine’s Church, the Stone Gate, which dates to the 13th century, St Mark’s Church, and the Banski Dvori Palace, the Presidential palace, which has a Changing of the Guard Ceremony at noon from April to September.

            The Lower Town is primarily known for its many museums.

 

     3. Central Dalmatian Coast

            The Central Dalmatian Coast contains several wonderful destinations which combine much of what tourists to Europe like best -- small, enchanting towns which are a delight to stroll.

            Split is noteworthy because it was the chosen locale for Roman Emperor, Diocletian’s retirement villa. Diocletian’s Palace, now in ruins, is surrounded by ancient walls and a maze of marble streets. Also within the walls is the neo-Romanesque Cathedral, which originally served as Diocletian’s tomb. It is located on a beautiful square, ringed with columns, called the Peristyle.

            Trogir, only about 20 kilometers (12 miles) west of Split, is another interesting Medieval town, seemingly made for walking. Most of the sights in the old town are centered near Narodni trg, a square on which the visitor will find the beautiful Cathedral of St Lovro, with its portal depicting Adam and Eve and its Chapel of St Ivan. The Town Hall is also on the square and merits a visit.

            Korcula, reputed birthplace of Marco Polo, is another picturesque, Medieval, Balkan town, located on the peninsula of an island in the Adriatic Sea. Stroll its zigzag streets, and admire its fortifications and architecture.

            Hvar Island has been compared to the Portuguese island of Madeira and is noted for its incredible weather (some hotels give discounts on cloudy days). Hvar Town boasts a Venetian Fortress on the hill above it and several monasteries, one Dominican, the other Franciscan, at either end of the town. Also of note is the gothic Arsenal, with its imposing arch.

 

      4. Zadar

            Zadar, Croatia, in the northern part of the Dalmatian region, was coveted, throughout its history by many empires and civilizations, because of its strategic location. It thus possesses reminders of these historical periods. The city is still heavily fortified, with extensive walls along the northeastern and southeastern edges (toward the mainland).

            Wander along the marble, pedestrian-only streets of the Old Town and encounter Roman ruins along with several Medieval churches. The most important church is St Donatus Church, actually built atop the ancient Roman forum (remnants are still visible). The Franciscan Monastery is also worth a visit. Near the town are several fine beaches.

 

      5. Kotor, Montenegro (although not in Croatia, Montenegro is very close and is included here for convenience)

             Kotor, Montenegro, is a walled, Medieval, “diamond in the rough” just waiting to be discovered by tourists. It has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Wander the narrow, cobblestone streets to discover the Cathedral of St Tryphon, the Prince’s Palace, and other interesting attractions.

 

 

       New Zealand is a pair of large islands east of Australia. The country is known for its dramatic scenery and for extreme sports. The North Island is noted for its thermal features and its indigenous population, the Maori. The south is virtually divided by the Southern Alps, a north-south mountain range which is popular with skiers and hikers. The country's isolation has produced a variety of strange and unusual wildlife, but the most prominent characteristic of the people is their love of adventure. New Zealand is the world's capital for dangerous sporting activities.

      Below is my ranking of the major New Zealand travel sights. A photo album will follow in September.

 

       1. Rotorua Thermal Area, North Island

             The Rotorua Thermal Area, North Island, New Zealand, is the most popular tourist attraction on the North Island. The gateway for an exploration of this area is the city of Rotorua, which lies approximately 100 miles (160 kilometers) southeast of Auckland (see below).

             The most visited thermal area, also noted for its up-close-and-personal look at the Maori culture, another significant tourist draw of this region, is Te Whakarewarewa. This sight offers a Maori Village to explore as well as access to the thermal area. The other side of the complex features the Maori Arts and Crafts Institute in which visitors can observe tribal people working on their native crafts. Within the thermal area, be sure to catch an eruption of Pohutu, the largest geyser in this section. Te Whakarewarewa is only about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) from the city center.

             Other thermal areas in the vicinity of Rotorua include Hells Gate, with its thermal waterfall, about 16 kilometers (10 miles) from the city, Waimangu, about 25 kilometers (15 miles) south of the city, where visitors can walk down a Volcanic Valley with many thermal features to Lake Rotomahana (Warm Lake). A half hour boat trip on the lake takes visitors to the Pink Terraces and the White Terraces (the original ones were buried by an 1886 volcanic eruption). Another thermal area near Rotorua is Waiotapu, which is highlighted by a boiling Champagne Pool and the Lady Knox Geyser whose eruptions are both regular (10:15 AM) and lengthy (approximately 1 hour), as well as many other interesting thermal features.

             There are numerous other thermal areas within a day’s ride of Rotorua, as well as many other types of activities available in the immediate vicinity, especially, ever present in New Zealand, activities designed for thrill-seekers and adventurers.

              A convenient (approximately 90 km or 50 miles) excursion from Rotorua is to drive southwest to the town of Taupo, located on New Zealand’s largest lake, Lake Taupe (actually the caldera of a volcano which has filled with water). Here the visitor will find more thermal areas, such as Craters of the Moon and Orakei Korako, as well as the lovely Huka Falls and Wairakei Park.

              Another possible excursion is much farther (150 km or 85 miles) but involves a very different and supremely interesting experience. The Waitomo Caves, particularly Glowworm Cave, are a unique places, featuring, besides the usual cave geology (stalactites and stalagmites), an underground river trip, surrounded by the tiny lights produced by the larva of the fungus gnat. The experience is surreal.

             Another interesting excursion involves a drive of about 140 miles (260 kilometers) to the coastal city of Napier, perhaps the art-deco capital of the world, with more buildings from this period than anywhere else in the world. The reason for this is that, in 1931, the existing city was totally annihilated by an earthquake and subsequent fire, so that it had to be completely rebuilt. The reconstruction took place within a few years, at a time when art-deco architecture was the rage.

 

     2. Queenstown, South Island

            Queenstown, South Island, New Zealand, is the world’s capital for adventure and thrill-seeking activities. It is also a beautiful community, located on picturesque Lake Wakatipu with some of New Zealand’s highest and most photogenic mountains looming around it.

            The city is very pedestrian-friendly although many of the streets away from the lake climb steeply up the slopes. A favorite activity is to take the Skyline Gondola, which, though expensive, rewards the investment with beautiful views of the city, lake, and the Remarkables and Eyre Mountains.

            There is also a film available, at a venue fairly close to the gondola terminal, called Kiwi Magic, which showcases New Zealand’s spectacular scenery.

            Other attractions in town, besides walking The Mall, the main shopping and pedestrian-only street, include strolling through the Queenstown Gardens and/or along the lakeshore, as well as visiting museums and nature parks.

            But the focus is on adventuring. Some of the activities available include Bungy-jumping, Jet-boating, River-surfing, Paragliding, Canyon-swinging, Sky-diving, and many more. Of course, all of these activities are relatively expensive, but this is Queenstown.

            From Queenstown, tourists can access some of New Zealand’s more remote and more spectacular national parks, Fjordland to the southwest, and Mount Aspiring, Westland/Tai Poutini, and Mount Cook (264 km/164 mi) to the northwest.

 

      3. Tongariro National Park, North Island

            Tongariro National Park, North Island, New Zealand, is one of the premier national parks in a country that is extremely proud of its conservation efforts. The park’s existence began in an effort to preserve three volcanic mountains (Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, and Ruapehu) which are sacred to the Maori people. All three volcanoes are still considered active although only Ruapehu has erupted in the recent past.

            A number of major walks, or treks, are available through the park. Most take several days although the most popular, Tongariro Crossing is billed as a one day “track”.

            There are also numerous shorter walks which are available from various points along the park boundary, which access lakes, rivers, waterfalls and other features of the park. The exertion required is often rewarded with fantastic views.

            For the visitor who loves driving, and prefers not to indulge in lengthy and sometimes strenuous walks, a series of roads encircle the park and make for a great driving tour. The “Desert Road”, a section of Highway 1 which travels along the eastern border of the park, is especially scenic.

 

      4. Dunedin, South Island

            Dunedin, South Island, New Zealand, is an elegant city. Its past wealth, associated with the discovery of gold there in the mid-1800’s, brought prosperity to its residents and there are still many examples of Victorian homes and architecture throughout the city and into its suburbs (the municipal chambers, found on the Octagon, the city’s center, are a perfect example).

            Self-guided walking tours and maps are available at the Visitor Centre. Other attractions in the city include the Botanic Gardens, several breweries and museums, and the Olveston House, a turn-of-the-century mansion.

            Dunedin, however, is probably most popular because of its proximity to the Otago Peninsula, which features some of the most unique wildlife in all of New Zealand. Here visitors can see a Yellow-eyed Penguin Colony, available only by guided tour from Penguin Place, near the outer edge of the peninsula. There is also a Northern Royal Albatross Colony which can be seen, again by guided tour only, at Taiaroa Head, at the very tip of the peninsula. There are also other wildlife encounters which are available.

            Besides wildlife, the peninsula offers Larnach Castle, the fabulous estate of a rich merchant, only 15 kilometers (8 miles) from the center of town.

 

      5. Auckland, North Island

            Auckland, North Island, New Zealand, is the typical entry point for international travelers into New Zealand. The city is located in the northern part of the North Island and is set picturesquely on the coast in an area which contains many islands and many volcanoes.

            One of the best views of the city can be obtained at the Skytower, part of a casino and entertainment complex known as Sky City. Taking the rapid elevator to the ultimate observation platform provides spectacular 360^o panoramas.

            The main artery of the city is Queen Street, which has numerous places to explore but be sure to wander through the waterfront area for a true appreciation of Auckland. Visitors are also encouraged to venture into the suburbs, especially Devonport, across the harbor from the city, and Parnell, for a more complete experience.

            Another must-do activity involves a harbor cruise. Numerous ferries are available, as well as private companies. The most popular cruises include stops at Devonport and at least one of the Hauraki Gulf islands, such as Rangitoto and/or Waiheke.

            Keep in mind that the city is located above a geological “hot spot” and that, like San Francisco in the US, residents are keenly aware of the ever-present danger of an earthquake or other seismic disturbance.

            An extremely worthwhile excursion from Auckland is to travel north of the city to the Bay of Islands, where visitors can take in some of New Zealand’s most breathtaking coastal scenery.

 

      6. Christchurch, South Island

            Christchurch, South Island, New Zealand, is the major hub of the central part of South Island and a destination in itself because of its lovely and well-manicured gardens, and its harkening back to jolly old England. The center of this thoroughly walkable city is Cathedral Square dominated by the Christ Church Cathedral. The fit can climb the 133 steps up to the viewing platform for a wonderful view of the city.

            Winding through the city is the Avon River, and, reminiscent of Oxford or Cambridge, visitors are encouraged to punt or be punted along the river. On the west side, within Hagley Park, are the Botanic Gardens which offer quiet and picturesque strolls. Further west are the suburbs which are also noted for their immaculately maintained gardens.

 

     Germany is an interesting country. Although the people have a reputation for being cold, the country seems to welcome visitors, if not with open arms, with open facilities. The people here are also extremely efficient and pride themselves on doing things with perfection. German villages are among the most beautiful and special in all of Europe, because there are hanging flower baskets everywhere, and every place is neat and clean, always! Bavaria is my favorite part of Germany because people here are the friendliest and the landscape is most interesting. Enjoy my descriptions of the Germany's "great places", then check out the photo album which is soon to follow.

 

      1. Neuschwanstein, the Romantic Road, and Bavaria

             Neuschwanstein, the elaborate fantasy of “Mad” King Ludwig II of Bavaria, is the quintessential fairy tale castle. High on a hill above his boyhood home, Ludwig began this most extravagant project in 1869 and it was still not completed when he died, under mysterious circumstances, in 1886. This castle, however, remains his crowning achievement. It was used as a model for Cinderella’s castle in Disneyland. Recently, it was chosen as one of the top 20 Modern Wonders of the World.

             Guidebooks usually advise tourists to first visit Hohenschwangau, Ludwig’s home as a child, to set the stage for an understanding of Neuschwanstein, but a little pre-trip research is all that’s necessary to appreciate the reasons for Ludwig’s escape from reality and the rationale for his extravagances. Add to the mix his obsession with Richard Wagner and his operas, and all becomes plain. So the savvy tourist can dispense with Hohenschwangau and cut to the chase.

             Take the shuttle from the base of the entire Konigschlossen complex to Marienbrucke (Mary’s Bridge) which offers a spectacular view of the castle and makes the visitor wonder how the castle was ever constructed (“How could so many materials be brought to such a location?”). From the bridge, it is a mostly downhill walk to the castle itself. A strict schedule of timed tours is adhered to, so pay attention to the tickets which are purchased at the base of the complex. Guides are extremely knowledgeable and informative. Ludwig had a certain flair, even if his decorating is a bit bizarre. Especially noteworthy are his bedroom (the intricate woodwork took a team of craftsmen several years to complete), the Throne Room (with no throne because it was never finished), and the Theater/Music Room, designed for Arts’ performances. Note also the man-made cave next to his bedroom. Keep in mind that the tour requires the climbing of an incredible number of stairs and is not for the faint of heart.

             Neuschwanstein is located near the southern terminus of Germany’s Romantic Road, a succession of Medieval villages, from Wurzburg in the north to Fussen in the south, which embody and exemplify the Medieval spirit and style of the country. The marketing of them all as a package has been extremely successful and the entire area is thronged with tourists and tour buses, especially during the summer.

             At Neuschwanstein, some visitors spurn the shuttle bus and prefer to walk up to the castle from the ticket area. Big mistake! The climb is extremely steep and takes a long time (although some seem to enjoy it). It’s much better to ride up, then walk down, chuckling at the poor walkers who are panting and sweating.

             Rothenburg ob der Tauber is the most visited town on Germany’s Romantic Road and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a perfectly preserved, walled, Medieval city whose residents adorn their homes and businesses with beautiful hanging flowers and keep them spotlessly maintained to further enhance the ambiance of the setting. The streets are kept free of vehicles making the overall experience extremely pleasant. The only blemish in this fairy tale scene are the crowds, which descend on the town with bus after bus, loaded with tourists of all shapes and sizes. Arrive early in the morning (or spend the night) to avoid the rush of midday. Walking is the only way to see the city (the city walls can also be walked and offer views of the countryside). This is a place to be savored and appreciated, taking the time to stop occasionally at a cafe or in one of the many shops which offer a little bit of everything German. Try some Schneeballen (snowballs), a local treat in Rothenburg

              Dinkelsbuhl, Germany, another one of the Romantic Road villages, is also a typical, walled, Medieval town. The cobblestone streets complement the houses, most of which date to the 1500’s. Note the Gothic Georgenkirche which was built in the 15th century. Gingerbread is a major product and should be sampled.

              Other significant stops along the Romantic Road include Wurzburg, one of the loveliest cities in all of Germany, with its supremely elegant and stately palace, the Residenz, another in a long line of palaces built in Bavaria in the 17th and 18th centuries. Some of the artwork is by the painter, Tiepolo, and should not be missed. Note also the Treppenhaus (stairway) at the center of the castle.

              Fussen, at the southern terminus of the route is another lovely German village with pedestrian-only streets and well-kept buildings. Note, especially, the 15th century castle, and the lovely church clock tower. Fussen also makes a good entry point for visits to Neuschwanstein and to the amazing Wieskirche, a Rococo masterpiece, located just off the Romantic Road, which has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its incredible splendor. With its frescoed ceilings and gilded accoutrements and lovely marble columns, it is certainly one of the most extravagant and delightful churches in the world.

             Excursions from any of the Romantic Road villages might include the cities of Nurnberg and Bamberg, both to the east.

             Nuremburg, Germany, was virtually destroyed by bombing during World War II. However, many of the most important buildings have been restored or reconstructed, so that the city has reemerged, especially as a tourist sight. Visitors can see the Zeppelinfeld Arena, the huge amphitheater where Adolf Hitler held rallies during his rise to power, as well as the Justice Palace where the War Crimes Tribunal took place following World War II. The City Gates and some of the Medieval walls remain intact. Check out the Beautiful Fountain in the Marktplatz (market square). Tourists may also visit the Albrecht Durer House, a Gothic residence of the famous painter, the Kaiserburg, official residence of numerous German kings, and several churches, St-Lorenz-Kirche and St-Sebaldus-Kirche.

             Bamberg, Germany, is a beer-drinkers heaven (because of the numerous breweries in the vicinity) which also boasts cobblestone streets with mansions as well as palaces, along with beautiful churches. Domplatz is the focal point for the visitor with its Alte Hofhaltung (the imperial palace complex with Gothic buildings and rose garden), the Kaiserdom, an impressive cathedral with four huge towers, and the Neue Residenz, another opulent palace. Nearby is the Alte Rathaus, the old town hall, which was built on its own little island in the middle of the river between what were once two separate towns that have evolved into present day Bamberg.

             Many of these villages are located in a well-known section of Germany called Bavaria, which boasts charming, little, picture-book-perfect Villages. The dramatic setting, at the base of the German Alps, adds to the splendor.

             Oberammergau is a picturesque village in the Bavarian Alps with numerous painted houses and shops selling the local specialties, wooden carvings. This town is particularly famous for its production of the Passion Play, every ten years, using town residents as actors. The concept was the result of a promise made by the town fathers as a tribute to God for sparing the town from the Plague.

             Mittenwald is another of Bavaria’s quaint. alpine towns. It is famous for its painted houses (even the church bell tower has painted frescoes on its exterior) and as a center for violin-making. Its setting amidst the Bavarian Alps is dramatic and extremely photogenic.

             Ettal Monastery (Kloster Ettal), in the town of Ettal, a short distance from Oberammergau, is a splendid abbey with another Baroque masterpiece, the Church of Our Lady. Note the beautiful frescoed dome and elaborate decorations throughout. The exterior of the abbey is made even more beautiful by its dramatic setting, nestled in the mountains.

             Also in the area is Linderhof Palace, another of Mad King Ludwig’s castles in Bavaria. It is his smallest castle, but gilded to the nines. The rooms have painted ceilings, tapestries on the walls, huge chandeliers, etc. The grounds are also elaborate, with fountains and many statues. Of special note is the Grotto, a make-believe cave with its own pool containing a shell boat similar to the one in Wagner’s opera, Lohengrin. Also on the grounds is Ludwig’s private Moorish Kiosk.

 

      2. Munich

             Munich is the capital of Bavaria and one of Germany’s most exciting cities. It has become world-famous because of its Octoberfest, but it has much more to offer than liters and liters of beer.

             The center of activity in the city is the Marienplatz (Mary’s square), a huge area encircled by interesting buildings, including the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) which does not appear new at all since it was built in the Gothic style with numerous statues, gargoyles, and towers. Its tall, main tower contains the famous Glockenspiel which performs several times each day. These performances last approximately ten minutes and include several sets of figures moving around (there are dancers, knights jousting, and a cock crowing). Find a good viewing location several minutes before the show starts.

             Also on this square is the Altes (old) Rathaus, which is a pretty, Medieval, wooden building with a green tower that announces the time of day on the hour and half-hour. Note also the golden statue of Mary on a column in the center of the square. Take the time to stop at a tavern with outdoor seating (there are many) to have a brew and people-watch.

             Near the Marienplatz is the Frauenkirchen (Mary’s Church), a huge cathedral, surprisingly, made of brick. Its distinctive twin steeples are a symbol of Munich.

             The Residenz served as home to the rulers of Bavaria for over 500 years. It is a vast complex of buildings and daunting to visit, but there are two requisite places of interest, the Treasury, with its statue of St George Slaying the Dragon, which is gold and studded with numerous gems, and the Cuvillies Theatre, considered Germany’s best example of a tier-boxed opera house in Rococo design.

             Schloss Nymphenburg was the summer palace of the Wittelsbachs, the ruling family of Bavaria for many years. It is located on the fringe of Munich, far from the Medieval city center, so it is best visited by public transport, the U-bahn. The palace grounds are vast, so it is quite a walk from the U-bahn station to the palace complex. The part of the main building which can be visited is fairly compact, and offers the typical palace accoutrements, elaborate decorations and wall hangings. Stroll the formal gardens behind the palace which offer some serenity and solitude.

             The Deutches Museum, in Munich, is the world’s premier technology and science museum. It is much too large and diverse to see in one visit, so the visitor is wise to prioritize and plot a strategy based on the amount of time available, then, perhaps, return at a later date to see other parts of the museum. Much of the museum is interactive, which adds to the enjoyment. Of note are the Aeronautics Exhibit, with a huge display of flying machines, Chemistry, which allows the visitor to mix chemicals together to see what results, as well as Food Technology, Toys, and Musical Instruments. Depending on interest, everyone will find an area to spend time in and be fascinated with.

             The world famous Hofbrauhaus, the most well-known beer garden in the world is a must stop for visitors to Munich. The food is only so-so, but it is a thrill to be served here, especially with an “oom-pah” band playing in the background.

             A popular excursion from Munich is a visit to Dachau which was the first concentration camp set up by Adolf Hitler. People were imprisoned here from 1933 to 1945. The history of Nazism in Germany is presented in the museum, as well as information about the treatment of Jews and other prisoners. Visitors can check out the living conditions faced during imprisonment by touring several of the barracks which have been rebuilt. There are also Catholic, Protestant and Jewish Memorial Chapels. It is a somber and moving experience.

 

      3. Berlin

             Berlin, Germany, is a sprawling city which presents a challenge to the tourist used to walking from sight to sight. Here the distances are much too great to rely on foot power. However, public transport is efficient and user-friendly. Most of the significant attractions in Berlin are museums. However, a few other sights should not be missed: Charlottenburg Palace, which began as a summer residence but blossomed into a massive estate, the Brandenburg Gate, which used to mark the boundary between East and West Berlin, and the Tiergarten, Berlin’s city park.

             Spend an hour or so browsing through one of Europe’s largest department stores - KaDaWe, with its incredible variety of goods.

 

      4. Heidelberg

             Heidelberg is a university town on the northern edge of the Black Forest region of Germany and lies along the Neckar River. Thankfully, it was one of the few German cities spared during the bombing raids of World War II, so much of the old center is preserved. The ruins of the Schloss (castle) preside over the Altstadt (old town) and are an ominous presence. Check out the view from the river on the Karl Theodore Bridge and walk through the beautiful city gate into the narrow streets and alleys of the city.

             Triberg, another town in the Black Forest, offers visitors access to Germany’s highest waterfall, the Wasserfall, and is also one of the best places to buy those characteristic Black Forest Cuckoo clocks.

             After visiting Heidelberg, drive southeast along the Neckar River valley for a scenic drive through one of Germany’s major wine regions.

 

      5. Rhine Cruise

             The Rhine River, traversing western Germany over much of its length, is one of Europe’s most important waterways. Its history-of-use parallels, in many cases the history of the continent. There is no better way to appreciate this river and its contributions than taking a River Cruise. In Germany, the major portion of the river, of interest to tourists, is the stretch between Cologne, with its famous Cathedral, to Koblenz, where the Rhine meets the Mosel River, and then to Mainz, which is part of a significant wine-producing area of Germany. The most spectacular section of the trip is the area of the infamous Lorelei Cliffs. There are numerous castles along this portion of the river and several charming towns, particularly St Goarshausen and St Goar (together, they host a fireworks display -- Rhein in Flammen -- on the third Saturday in September) and Rudeshiem. Recommended castles to visit along the way include the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, near Koblenz, Burg Katz (the Cat Castle), and Burg Maus (the Mouse Castle).

           Cologne Cathedral is certainly one of the most impressive cathedrals in the world. It is the largest Gothic cathedral in Germany and dates back to 1248 A.D. However, it wasn’t until some 600 years later that the cathedral was actually completed. It dominates the cityscape of Cologne and is immediately recognizable from a distance outside the city. There are numerous art treasures inside, such as The Shrine of the Three Magi, and several chapels along the perimeter. Note also the detail in the oak choir.

          

      6. Danube Cruise

              The Danube is another of Europe’s famous and historic rivers. A Danube Cruise is a pleasant way to sample some of southern Germany, Austria, and Hungary. Many of these river excursions begin in the German town of Regensburg, one of Germany’s best-preserved cities. Regensburg is noted for its many churches. To the southeast lies Passau, on the border between Germany and Austria. Next on this journey is the Austrian city of Linz, which had its origins in Roman times, then the beautiful city of Vienna, onward to the capital of Slovakia, Bratislava and finally to Budapest, Hungary. The trip, as outlined here, traverses some beautiful scenery, some incredible cities, and a huge diversity of cultures.

 

      Not really part of Germany, but bordering it on the southwest is the small Principality of Liechtenstein. It is often included in a tour of Germany so I will include it here.

  

      7. Liechtenstein

            Liechtenstein is another of Europe’s tiny (62 square miles) principalities, this one wedged between Austria and Switzerland. The capital is Vaduz which is also the primary tourist stop in the country. Check out the Castle (not open to visitors) and the Rathaus (Town Hall) on the main square. Wander the pedestrian street (Staedtle) to St Florin Cathedral. There are also several museums for those so-inclined.

            Another castle, Wildschloss, now in ruins, towers over the city and is a popular place to hike. Check out the Red House which also provides great views above the city.

            In the vicinity, about 15 kilometers (9 miles) from the capital, is the parking lot at Tourotel-Gaflei, which offers scenic views of alpine meadows. A great hike (2 -2 ½ hours), the Prince’s Path, leads from here to Kuhgrat, the tallest of the Three Sisters at (2100 meters/6700 feet).

            Most people come to Liechtenstein just to put another notch in their travel belts or another stamp on their passports, but it is worth the effort to get here.

 

     

      Spain, unlike many European countries, has been blessed with an infusion of Moorish culture, since the Moors ruled here for many years. Thus, besides its Latin roots, there are significant elements of architecture and tradition injected from Northern Africa, only a few nautical miles away. The resulting combination is both fascinating and charming. Spain has more World Heritage Sites than any other country in Europe. Below are my favorite sights in Spain.

 

      1. Alhambra & Granada

             The Alhambra, a Moorish palace located in the city of Granada, Spain, is probably one of the most exquisite buildings in the world. The walls, doors, and archways are delicately sculpted with what looks like Arabic writing and intricate detail. No wonder it is the #1 tourist attraction in all of Spain. Of special note are the Palacio de Nazaries, the Salon of the Ambassadors, and the Patio of the Lions. All are carefully and lovingly crafted to blend in with the entire structure. The Alcazaba (the fortress) certainly looks formidable with its thick walls and many towers, which also provide great views of the city and the surrounding landscape. Note that the Palace of Charles V is noticeably not Moorish, evidence that the complex was built over many years.

            Be sure to visit the Generalife Gardens, which exemplify how the moors incorporated gardens with flowers, shade from trees and shrubs, and water in the form of pools and fountains to create an extremely pleasant environment and a refuge from the hustle and bustle as well as the summer heat.

            The city of Granada has several other sights which are worthy of exploration after a visit to the Alhambra. These include the Cathedral, which dates to 1523, the Plaza Nueva with the nearby Iglesia de Santa Ana, and the Sacromonte, cave-dwellings of gypsies, cut into the mountainside above the Albaicin or Arab Quarter.

            Tickets for a visit to the Alhambra are limited, so pre-arrange if possible or get to the ticket office early to avoid disappointment.

            For an unforgettable experience, climb the steep streets and stairways of the Albaicin, in the evening, to the Mirador of San Nicolas for a breathtaking view of the Alhambra, which is lighted at night and dominates the ridge in the distance.

 

       2. Madrid

             Madrid, Spain, is certainly one of Europe’s great cities. There are so many significant attractions that several days should be allotted. Perhaps most important, because of its location and its popularity as a gathering place, is the Plaza Mayor, one of Europe’s greatest squares. It is huge, surrounded by beautiful, majestic buildings which houses shops, restaurants, etc. It is a wonderful place for strolling or for sitting and enjoying a “cervesa” (beer) or coffee.

              The Palacio Real (royal palace) is a spectacular chateau in the tradition of Versailles or Buckingham Palace, although much smaller. It is still the residence of Spain’s King (Juan Carlos). The rooms display splendid opulence with their ceiling frescoes, sculptures, tapestries, and beautiful furniture.

              El Rastro, the acclaimed flea market of Madrid, is certainly a gathering place (especially on Sunday morning) and great for people-watching, but the items being sold are mostly junk.

              On the eastern side of the city, in what is often referred to as Bourbon Madrid, besides the significant architecture, there is a greater amount of open space and greenery, accentuated by beautiful fountains and squares. Here also are Madrid’s major museums and celebrations of the Arts, including the world-famous Prado Museum as well as the smaller Reina Sofia, famous for its Guernica, perhaps Picasso’s best painting.

              The Prado is another one of the great museums of the world. There is no better repository of Spanish art -- works, for instance, by Goya, El Greco, Velazquez, and Murillo, but the collection goes far beyond Spain. Italian and Flemish artists are well represented, as well as many others.

              In the Prado, don’t miss Hieronymus Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights, his most famous painting.

              Nearby, note the exquisite Fuente de Cibeles, with its Goddess of Nature in a chariot pulled by lions. The elegant building behind the fountain is, of all things, the main post office. Although it is in a very busy traffic area, try to frame a picture of the fountain.

              Also in this vicinity is Retiro Park, a splendid place for strolling and escaping the hectic city scene. There are miles of walkways, pools, fountains, and interesting buildings, particularly the Crystal Palace.

              One of the most popular excursions from Madrid is west to El Escorial (more precisely, Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial), which has been the summer palace for the Kings of Spain since 1564. It was built by Philip II and completed by his son. It is another great chateau in the spirit of Versailles.

              Yet it is more than a residence; it is also a monastery with a lovely chapel. As expected, the rooms are extremely ornate, with beautiful artwork and tapestries. Especially noteworthy are the five wooden doors, gifts from the Kingdom of Austria, which are incredibly detailed, with inlaid wood of different colors. Also significant are the Pantheons, the crypts of the kings (all but 3 monarchs since 1564 have been interred here), and the Pantheon Infantes, the tombs of the royal children who did not become kings.

              Near El Escorial is an interesting tourist attraction that harkens to the time of the dictator, Francisco Franco. Valle de los Caidos, (the Valley of the Fallen, in English), is a monument, erected by Generalissimo Franco, to all the Spaniards who have died defending their country. It consists of a tall, stone cross at the top of a rocky hill and, beneath the cross, a huge basilica, which, incidentally, contains Franco’s tomb. There are security guards near the tomb who try to prevent visitors from spitting on Franco’s grave.

              Madrid is a perfect place to attend the “obligatory” bullfight. Madrid’s Plaza de Toros (bull ring) is one of the country’s finest and attracts some of the best matadors. Even though the spectacle is revolting for many, and its continuation is being challenged by animal rights groups, the bullfight has been part of Spanish culture for hundreds of years and should be experienced by any traveler who believes in becoming familiar with the culture of an area.

              Another “obligatory” rite of passage through the culture of Madrid is the dining experience at Sobrino de Botin, a famous haunt of Ernest Hemingway and reputed to be the oldest restaurant in the world (from 1725). The restaurant interior attractively resembles a cave, and the food is excellent, especially the specialty, roast suckling pig. Ask your waiter to show you the wine cellar for an even more cave-like experience.

              A popular day trip from the city involves a visit to Aranjuez, actually the Palacio Real de Aranjuez, only about thirty miles from Madrid, another summer palace of Spain’s royal family. It is a particularly opulent estate on the River Tagus, which is made more delightful by its 740 acres of gardens which offer solitude and respite from the oppressive Spanish summers. Inside, note, in particular, the Chinese Porcelain Room, the Hall of Mirrors, and the Smoking Room.

 

        3. Barcelona

              Barcelona, Spain, is a city rich in tradition which has elements spanning almost 2000 years, from Roman times through the Middle Ages up to the present. This port city has thrived, especially because of its location on the southeastern coast of Spain. The heart of the city is the Old Town, which includes the Barri Gotic, the Gothic Quarter, La Ribera, containing 14th century mansions, the beautiful Parc de la Ciutadella, and the restored and bustling waterfront. The major thoroughfare in this part of the city is Las Ramblas, one of the most famous avenues in the world, lined with shops and restaurants, peopled by street entertainers, lovers, and tourists. Of special note in this section is Barcelona’s Cathedral, which was begun in the 13th century. Try to be there at noon on Sunday for a demonstration of the National Dance of Catalonia, the Sardana. Also nearby is Parc Guell, which began as a real estate venture of Barcelona’s famous architect, Antoni Gaudi, but was never finished and has been converted into a city park.

             Gaudi’s presence and influence can be found in many areas of Barcelona. He was part of the Art Nouveau movement which, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, engulfed the city. Gaudi’s most famous building is the church, La Sagrada Familia. Gaudi began its construction in 1882 and the church was still unfinished at the time of his death in 1926. Construction still continues on this masterpiece, but, at this time, its completion date is totally uncertain.

             There are a number of houses designed by the architect which offer a glimpse into his unusual approach to architecture. These include Casa Mila and Casa Battlo’. Other houses in the same area by other architects within the modernistic movement offer contrasting styles.

             Another neighborhood, Montjuic, which occupies the high ground above the city center, is the old Jewish Quarter and also the sight of many events from the 1992 Olympic Games. Great views of the city and its harbor are available here and on a nearby mountain, Tibidabo.

             Side trips in the Barcelona vicinity include beach excursions along the coast north and south of the city, called the Costa Dorada, or a trip to the tiny principality of Andorra, nestled in the Pyrenees between Spain and France.

             Probably the most popular excursion is to the Montserrat Monastery, in the mountains just northwest (about 60 km or 40 miles) of Barcelona, a residence for Benedictine monks and one of the holiest places in Spain. The name derives from the “serrated” mountains which form a lovely backdrop for the monastery.

             At the heart of this place is the small, wooden statue of the Black Virgin (La Moreneta), which is reputed to have been carved by St Luke and brought to Spain in 50 A.D. by St Peter. More likely, it is much younger, but the rumor persists, and the Black Virgin has become the patroness of the Catalonian region of Spain. Particular attention should be paid to the Basilica Facade, with its sculptures of Christ and the apostles, and the Way of the Cross, a path which depicts the “Stations of the Cross” outdoors in the form of fourteen statues. The path begins at the Placa de l’Abat Oliba.

             The setting of the Montserrat Monastery, alone, is worth the trip.

 

       4. Cordoba

             La Mezquita, in Cordoba, Spain, began its existence as a mosque when construction began in 788 AD. The interior of the mosque is breathtaking with hundreds of red and white striped double arches. The Mihrab, the most sacred part of the mosque, has intricate geometric designs.

             Later, in the life of this remarkable building (in the 16th century), after the Christians conquered the Moors, a cathedral was erected within the center of the mosque, which, except for its position, would probably be an important sight in and of itself. The Choir stalls are beautifully carved mahogany and the pulpits are also noteworthy. Now, however, it detracts somewhat from the mosque.

            Outside is the Patio of the Orange Trees, a shady respite from the summer heat and the bell tower which dominates the skyline of the city.

            The Moorish, walled city of Cordoba is a delight to explore because cars are not allowed in the city center. Buildings and walls are white-washed and residents plant flowers outside their windows to embellish the scene. Peek through the wrought-iron gates for a glimpse into the lovely flower-bedecked courtyards which the city is known for.

             Stop at the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos which boasts formidable walls and several interesting towers. The gardens are lovely and, because of their abundant use of water, are particularly refreshing during the oppressive heat of summer.

             Stroll through the elegant Plaza de Corredera with its attractive, orange colored buildings.

 

       5. Segovia

             Segovia, Spain, is an enchanting and romantic city, northwest of Madrid. It contains three spectacular sights, all worthy of time and photos.

             First, the Alcazar is a Cinderella-like castle with many turrets and towers, in a glorious setting on the western edge of town, high on a promontory overlooking open plains. It is Moorish in design with some beautiful rooms as well as some militarily strategic areas. Ascend the hazardous stairs of the tower for a sweeping view of the town and especially its cathedral.

             The cathedral is the last Gothic cathedral built in Spain (circa 1520). The exterior was constructed with yellowish stone and has many spires as well as gargoyles and flying buttresses which add character. The central dome is the tallest structure in the city. The interior seems somehow delicate despite its incredible size (the vaulted ceilings are hundreds of feet high). It contains numerous chapels, sculptures and paintings. The cathedral is found on the perimeter of another glorious Plaza Mayor, with many shops and restaurants.

             At the eastern end of the city is the famous Roman Aqueduct, still in use since the 1st century. It is in amazingly good condition, especially considering that the Romans used no mortar in its construction.

 

       6. Toledo

             The historic city of Toledo is, deservedly, a World Heritage Site, like many in Spain, because it is a walled, Medieval city in which noteworthy treasures abound. From the walls and city gates to the many houses of worship to its prominent Alcazar (castle) and the narrow, winding streets that connect all the attractions, there is much to occupy the tourist here.

             The Catedral is easily the most magnificent structure in the city. From the Reredos of the high altar, to the Choir, to the Transparante behind the altar -- all are exquisite! Unfortunately no pictures are allowed inside.

             The Toledo Alcazar sits at the highest point of the city, with a commanding view of the countryside. Many of its displays and rooms focus on the siege of the castle during Spain’s Civil War in 1936. The residents resisted for many, many days. There is also a military museum which possesses many types of weaponry as well as miniature battle scenes and uniforms.

             El Greco, the Greek who became one of Spain’s most famous artists, is revered in Toledo. His house and museum are open to the public.

             Visit the Iglesia de Santo Tome’ to view El Greco’s The Burial of Count Orgasz, one of his most famous paintings.

             Take a short ride out of the city to the Parador Nacional de Conde Orgaz to get a view of the city made famous in El Greco’s painting, View of Toledo.

 

        7. Seville

              Seville is one of Spain’s gems. It is located in the southwestern part of the country, a region known as Andalusia. The area is extremely hot and dry during the summer but very comfortable during the majority of the rest of the year.

              Seville’s Cathedral is the largest Gothic building in the world, and the third largest church in Europe. Its Moorish bell tower, the Giralda, has become a symbol of the city. The interior of the church displays much beauty and wealth, from the Choir stalls to the gilded Reredos of the Main Chapel, to the Sacristy and the Treasure. A Patio of Orange Trees, similar to the one at La Mezquita offers shade and greenery. Columbus’ grave (no one truly knows if his remains are really here) is also noteworthy.

              Nearby is the Barrio Santa Cruz, a charming neighborhood of narrow streets, small picturesque squares, and numerous shops and restaurants, that is delightful for strolling and getting lost.

              Seville’s Alcazar (castle) is a Moorish palace still used by Spain’s monarch when visiting the city. The architecture is distinctive, especially the extensive use of ceramic tiles, while the gardens are beautiful and tranquil, with pools and shade for refuge during the summer months.

              Maria Luisa Park, just south of the city, adjacent to the river, offers a pleasant area of escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Note the beautiful, symmetrical Plaza de Espana and the Plaza de America, both of which contain buildings which blend Moorish and Andalusian architecture.

              Some will notice the familiarity of the Plaza de Espana. It was used in a scene from Star Wars, Episode II, in which Anakin Skywalker and Princess Amidala stroll, arm in arm. The square is beautiful, although the ravages of time are apparent in that much of the tile on the banisters and elsewhere is cracked or missing. Especially interesting are the benches along the canal which highlight many of Spain’s cities using azulejos (painted tiles).

              An interesting Seville experience, not to be missed, is a Flamenco show. One of the best can be found at El Arenal, near Seville’s bullring. Sure it is staged only for tourists, and, as such, is a bit trite and artificial, but the Flamenco is identified with Seville and is a dance which cannot easily be seen outside of this country. The show is a solid 1.75 hours with no intermission and displays colorful and elaborate costumes and excellent dancing.

              An interesting excursion from Seville is to the town of Jerez de la Frontera, located south of Seville, which is noted for its sherry production and also for its Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre (school of equestrian skills). The famous Lippizaner stallions and their riders train here (the public is invited to view practice sessions for a small fee).

              There are numerous Bodegas (Sherry wineries) which can be visited. One learns in the tours that there are several different kinds of sherry: Fino (most dry), Oloroso (a little sweeter), Amontillado (medium sweet), and Cream Sherry (even sweeter).

              The Real Tesoro Tio Mateo is a fine bodega which allows visitors to taste the various types of sherry after touring the facility. It is a very friendly and accommodating place.

 

        8. Avila

              Avila, Spain, is a charming, Medieval walled city, famous for its Cathedral, its incredibly well-preserved walls, and for St Theresa, who was born and lived here. The Cathedral is built right into the city walls, so it doubles as a fortress. Visitors can walk the walls for great views of the surrounding landscape, as well as interesting looks into the squares and tiny streets of the city. The walls, punctuated with 88 impressive cylindrical towers, were built in the 11th century, are over a mile long, and are considered the best preserved in all of Europe.

 

        9. Altamira Caves

              The Altamira Caves, in Cantabria, Spain, are one of only a few treasures of prehistoric art in the world. Here, a visitor will find rock paintings from as early as 18,000 years ago. The caves were discovered in 1869. Because of potential destruction and despoiling of these ancient historical riches, access is controlled and severely limited. The would-be visitor must ask for permission to visit, by writing at least one year in advance.

              Nearby is the tiny, lovely village of Santillana del Mar, a Medieval gem with perfectly preserved palaces and several significant religious buildings. This is a place which Jean-Paul Sartre described as “the prettiest little village in Spain”.

              More famous than the caves at Altamira is the Grotto of Lascaux, in the Vezeres Valley of France, with its beautiful prehistoric paintings. Unfortunately, it has been closed to the public since 1963, to prevent the destruction of these priceless relics. However, Lascaux II replicates the original, using the same pigments found in the 17,000 year old artwork. Tickets for this and the nearby Grotto-de-Font-de-Gaume, which boasts somewhat younger paintings, should also be reserved in advance.

 

       10. Pueblas Blancas

              The Pueblas Blancas (White Villages) are a group of towns, east of Seville (see # 49 above) which are characterized by whitewashed houses and Moorish influences. Several of the towns are noteworthy for their history and charm.

               Ronda, one of the most picturesque of the white villages of Spain, is known for the 170 meter (500 foot) gorge which divides the town, and the Roman bridge, Puente San Miguel, which spans the gorge. The houses on both sides of the gorge hang precipitously. For a treat, visit the oldest and, some say, the most beautiful bullring in Spain. Native son, Pedro Romero, one of the greatest bullfighters of all time, is immortalized throughout the town as well as in the Museum Taurino inside this bullring.

               Another of the white villages is Arcos de la Frontera, an old Arabian town perched on the edge of a gorge. It is a quintessential hill town, with an Old Quarter composed of narrow streets and alleys rising to the ruins of a castle at the top of the hill. In the Plaza de Espana, visitors will find the Parador Casa del Corregidor, a great place to splurge for a few nights and the Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, with its beautiful choir stalls and altarpiece. Other buildings of note include the Palacio del Mayorazgo, and the Iglesia de San Pedro.

              Other villages which can be explored along the Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos include Ubrique, Zahara de la Sierra, Grazalema, Ronda la Viejo, Setenil, Gaucin, with breathtaking views to the Mediterranean, and Jimena de la Frontera.

              Splurge a little and spend a night or two at the Parador de Ronda, a beautiful hotel along the gorge and beside the famous bridge in Ronda. Spain has a number of state-owned hotels (Paradors) which it operates. Many of these are historic or cultural landmarks in and around the country’s most important tourist destinations. Ronda’s Parador is particularly striking because of its setting.

 

       11. Salamanca

              Salamanca is another of Spain’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Its Plaza Mayor rivals Madrid’s in size and splendor, with numerous outdoor cafes at which to sip “una cervesa” (a beer) or two. The honey-colored stone is especially striking. Since Salamanca is a university town, there are many young people about and an attitude of free-wheeling fun and frolic in the air. Also visit the Casa de las Conchas (House of Shells) and the two adjoining cathedrals (Nueva and Vieja) as you stroll the charming streets of the city.

 

       12. Santiago de Compostela

              Santiago de Compostela, in western Spain (Galicia), is one of the most important pilgrimage locations for Roman Catholics because of its connection to St James, one of the twelve disciples of Jesus. Relics of James and two other disciples are said to be found in a tomb under the altar of the Santiago Cathedral, the most important attraction in the city. Of special note in the Cathedral are the West Facade, the Portico da Gloria, and the Porta das Praterias. Additional city sights include the Hostel de los Reyes Catolicos, an inn and hospital for sick pilgrims, the magnificent Praza do Obradoiro, and the Convento de San Martino Pinario, an old monastery with a beautiful church.

       

       13. Torremolinos & Costa del Sol

             Torremolinos and the Costa del Sol is a beach area on the Mediterranean Sea which is extremely popular as a vacation resort for Europeans. Torremolinos makes a good location for a base of operations because it is small enough to retain some charm, yet developed enough to satisfy the hedonists. The city has an adorable pedestrian-only area crammed with shops and restaurants. The beach is broad and long, with many concessions for renting a chaise lounge and umbrella. Note that many women are topless on the beach, if that is an issue.

             Marbella, west of Torremolinos, is a bit more upscale, but its Old Quarter is nevertheless pleasant to stroll. Admire its Moorish walls and Town Hall.

             Mijas is an adorable white-washed village high above the coast with narrow, cobblestone streets and great views.

             Malaga, east of Torremolinos, is a larger city and boasts a fortress, the Alcazaba, an imposing Cathedral, and the ruins of an ancient Moorish Castle.

             Nerja, further east, is known for its secluded beaches and its famous cave, Cueva de Nerja, with its Paleolithic paintings.

             Sample the world-famous seafood at Casa Juan, a friendly restaurant in Torremolinos which offers delicious, local dishes such as, adobo (fried shark), Boquerones (anchovies in vinegar), sardines, and mercado (grouper).

 

       14. Cuenca

              Cuenca, Spain, is the home of the famous Hanging Houses, or Casas Colgadas, which were the summer homes of the royal family in days gone by. The old town is very pretty with its narrow, winding streets. Also worthwhile is the Cathedral, which dates to the 12th century.

 

       15. San Sebastian

              San Sebastian, Spain, is basically a stylish beach resort, probably the premier one in Spain. The town lies on a lovely bay and is blessed with several great beaches, Playa de Ondarreta, Playa de la Concha, and Playa de la Zurriola. Besides the beach scene, the old town has charm and is crowded at all hours. The Plaza de la Constitucion is the main square of the old town (it used to be a bullring).

              Imagine a thoroughly modern building which is supposed to represent a ship run aground. This is the extremely unusual architecture of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain, 62 miles (100 kilometers) west of San Sebastian and an extremely worthwhile day trip. The building gleams in titanium and stone and was, perhaps, the most talked about piece of architecture constructed in the second half of the Twentieth Century.

 

       16. Balearic Islands

              The Balearic Islands lie below Spain’s southern coast and have become playgrounds for Europeans on holiday, as well as for travelers from other areas of the world. The most popular of the islands is Ibiza, the closest one to the mainland. Besides its beaches and nightlife, especially in the summer, it is distinguished by its Upper Town, Dalt Vila, which is basically a fortification that once guarded the ring-shaped bay. Sights worth visiting include the Esglesia de Santo Domingo, with its red-tiled domes, the Cathedral, which dates from the 13th century, and the Necropolis de Puig d’es Molins, considered to be a sacred cemetery by the Carthaginians, who once ruled here.  

 

      

      England is a truly special place. It sports great history, architecture, education, literature, and beauty. Travel through this country and remember some of the most famous names in Western Civilization, such as, Shakespeare, Churchill, Newton, and William the Conqueror. Here is my tribute to the best travel destinations in this rich country. Later, view the photo album which will soon follow.

 

      1. London

             London is another of the world’s great cities. It is staid and proper, just like many Brits, but the people are helpful and there are a plethora of sights and attractions. In fact, London is worth an entire week if travel plans allow.

            The most visited attraction in the city is the Tower of London, which has an extremely storied history. The Tower of London, located on the north bank of the Thames, near London’s Financial District, has been a home to England’s monarchs, a weapons storage facility, a treasury (it still holds the Crown Jewels), and, most famously, a prison. Many an enemy of the state met his or her end, frequently by beheading, within the confines of the Tower. The visitor is escorted though the complex by a resident “beefeater”, dressed in a uniform which is reminiscent of Tudor England.

           Must sees on the visit include the White Tower, the dominant structure within the complex, which dates back to the 11th century, the Jewel House, which houses the British Crown Jewels, Traitor’s Gate, the entryway for prisoners arriving from Westminster Hall, and the Bloody Tower, so-named since it was the residence of Edward IV’s two sons whose bones were later found nearby, after their uncle, Richard III, ascended the throne. One of the cells, the cell of “little ease” was so small (4 ft x 4 ft) that prisoners could not fully stand up, nor lie straight out. Imagine how uncomfortable it was!

            There are a number of places in London which are icons of travel -- known and/or recognized all over the world. These include Big Ben and Parliament, the seat of government in England. “Ben” is actually the name for the bell, although the Bell Tower dominates the skyline here. The architecture is neo-gothic and is both striking and exquisite in its detail. The complex is huge, lavish, and ornate, and a tribute to the British who keep the area spotless.

            Tower Bridge is one of the most distinctive and beautiful bridges in the world. It has become one of the enduring symbols of London. It is at the eastern end of the city and spans the Thames, very close to the Tower of London. The “Tower Bridge Experience” provides lots of information about the history, operation, and construction of the bridge. However, it is disappointing in that the top level is an enclosed area, instead of being outside for a great view. Pictures can only be taken through a few tiny windows.

            Buckingham Palace is another “must-see” in London. The palace is still the city residence of the Royal Family. The public is allowed to view the state rooms, but not the private living quarters of the Queen, her family and guests. Perhaps most impressive is the “Changing of the Guard” which takes place at 11:30 AM every day from April to mid-July, then goes to an alternating day schedule for the remainder of the year. During the summer months, crowds are huge so it is advisable to arrive early in order to stake out a territory. It is quite the ceremony, but then the Brits are known for their pomp and circumstance.

            A lesser known, but just as regal, ceremony is the “Changing of the Horse Guards” which takes place at 11 AM each day at the Horse Guards building behind 10 Downing Street.

           Westminster Abbey is a beautiful church in its own right. The exterior resembles the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, but, inside, it is more like a museum or a mausoleum, in that it contains the tombs of, or memorials to, most of the kings and queens of England, as well as many other notables. It is solemn inside because it is the burial place of so many, and pictures cannot be taken as a consequence. Some of the special memorials are particularly elaborate, such as the tombs of Elizabeth I and her rival, Mary, Queen of Scots. Of special note is the Poet’s Corner which has busts or plaques to England’s famous literati.

           Besides these mega-attractions, there are many other places worthy of the traveler’s time and energy. Harrods department store is one of the most interesting shopping facilities in the world. Besides the architecture and the store decorations, almost anything buyable can be found here. Trafalgar Square is one of Europe’s great gathering places, with its fountain, its pigeons, and its sculptures. London’s parks, such as Hyde Park and Green Park, are noteworthy since they offer a peaceful respite in a crowded, hectic location.

           St. Paul’s Cathedral, the setting for the very public marriage of Prince Charles and Princess Diana, was designed by Christopher Wren, the famous architect who practically rebuilt London after its devastating fire of 1666. The church claims to have the second largest dome in the world (after St Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City). The interior, the setting for many lavish state ceremonies, is striking, especially the ceiling and dome. The outside of the cathedral is also very attractive, but it needs cleaning.

                       British Airways’ London Eye, a large Ferris wheel on the south shore of the Thames River, offers spectacular views of the city.

           There are also, as one would expect, some major museums in London. Most notable are the British Museum and the National Portrait Gallery (the Tate).

           The British Museum, on Trafalgar Square, is the oldest public museum in the world. The most famous holdings of the museum are the Elgin Marbles, 5th century B.C. reliefs from the Parthenon, in Greece. Other particular delights include a collection of Egyptian Mummies and the Lindsfarne Gospels, which date to the 7th century and are illustrated.

            Other sights in London, include Piccadilly Circus, London’s equivalent to Times Square in New York City, a neon, garish confluence of streets which has become one of London’s great gathering places. Not too far away is Covent Garden, a group of London streets centering on the Central Market, a covered mall with numerous shops and stalls surrounded by a plaza, frequented by street performers and crowds of people.

            For an unusual experience, have lunch in the “Cafe in the Crypt”, in the bowels of St Martin-in-the-Field Church, right across from Trafalgar Square.

            Take the “Big Bus Company” tour, a red double-decker that stops at numerous places on the tourist map. The ticket holder may get off anywhere, sightsee, then hop on another bus to continue the tour. There is also a narrator on each bus who describes the attractions.

            Across the Thames, tourists will find an exact replica of Shakespeare’s Globe Theater which offers productions year round, weather permitting, since the theater is outdoors.

            One of the favorite excursions from London involves a cruise down the River Thames to Greenwich, England, home of the Royal Naval College, the National Maritime Museum, and the Old Royal Observatory, the original home of Greenwich Mean Time, the time standard for the entire earth and the location which demarcates zero degrees Longitude. Boats leave from the Westminster Pier at various times throughout the day.

            Another, slightly longer, day trip is an excursion to Brighton, on the south coast of England to visit the Royal Pavilion, an unbelievably elaborate palace. The architecture is Eastern and the furnishings Chinese. It was used as a residence by King George IV, but when Queen Victoria succeeded him, she moved the royal quarters back to London, so the palace ceased to be a resort for the monarchy. It was, however, purchased and restored to its former elegance by the city of Brighton, and is worth a hour or two. Brighton is also known for its beach.

            A third excursion is eastward to Canterbury Cathedral which is not only an impressive church, but is also a repository of a considerable amount of history, particularly involving the events surrounding the murder of Thomas Becket in 1170 (his remains were housed here until 1538). The church is also known for its medieval stained glass and the tomb of the Black Prince (son of Edward III).

            Still another excursion from London takes the visitor to Leeds Castle, certainly one of the most beautiful castles in all of Europe. It is a classic, Medieval castle, complete with moat. It is incredibly romantic and picturesque, with its varied-colored bricks and pleasant, spotless grounds. The interior is meticulously decorated with extravagant arrangements of fresh flowers, as well as period furniture.

            An additional side trip from the city lies northwest at Windsor Castle, the residence of the English royals, which has a history dating back to the reign of William the Conqueror, who had it built in 1070 AD. It is the largest inhabited castle in the world with its 1000 rooms. Note in particular, St George’s Chapel, where ten British monarchs are buried, and the State Apartments, with its many historical treasures. When the Queen is in residence, there is a Changing of the Guard ceremony here which is as good as the one in London.

 

       2. Stonehenge

             Stonehenge, located on the Salisbury plain west of London, is a series of huge stones arranged in concentric circles, thought to be approximately 4,000 to 5,000 years old. Prehistoric people are thought to have brought the stones many miles, quite a feat since many of them weigh several tons. Most scholars think that the stones have either a spiritual or astronomical purpose, or perhaps both. There seems no doubt that they are arranged in conjunction with the passage of the seasons and/or time.

             Visitors are allowed to walk along a circular path which surrounds the complex. Excavations reveal that more circles were planned outside the current alignment so that what is seen today was part of a much grander scheme.

             After visiting Stonehenge, stop by the concession stand, next to the parking lot, and sample the “rock cakes”, delicious, chunky, ginger-flavored scones filled with raisins -- a wonderful, tasty treat.

             Not far from Stonehenge are the Stourhead Gardens, considered the nicest gardens in all of England, and among the best in the world. These are landscape gardens famous for their blending of nature with some man-made classical structures. A two-mile walk around the lake is very spiritual and tranquil, with many opportunities along the way for quiet contemplation and great views. A small village at the end of the walk provides evidence of the area’s Medieval past, and a cute pub offers respite and sustenance.

 

       3. Bath

             Bath, England is a beautiful, little city of Georgian Architecture with Roman echoes. The Roman Baths are the major, but by no means the only, tourist attraction. (Rent an Audio-guide for a richer experience.) Also in the city is the Bath Abbey, a lovely old church and the Royal Crescent, a stately group of Georgian apartments high above the city, next to an expansive park. The homes along the narrow streets are festooned with flowers making for a very attractive walk.

             Splurge while at the Roman Baths by stopping for tea at the Pump Room where visitors are treated with style and serenaded with beautiful music.

 

       4. Hadrian's Wall

             Hadrian’s Wall, in the far northern part of England, dates back to 120 AD, when the Roman Emperor, Hadrian, had the wall built to separate the most northerly reaches of the Empire from the Scottish barbarians. The wall is much lower than it was originally, but is surprisingly intact for much of its 120 km (75 mile) length. It was dotted with “forts” where Roman soldiers were quartered and tended to. These forts are in ruins now, but enough remains to offer the visitor a glimpse into what life might have been like back then. Housestead Fort is one of the largest and most interesting.

 

        5. Cotswolds

             The Cotswold Villages are small, quaint towns in England, with strange sounding names (Stow-on-the-Wold, Bourton-on-the-Water, Upper and Lower Slaughter, Chipping Campden, etc). The houses and other buildings are made of stone (from the area, so they have some sameness to them) and the overall effect is like stepping back in time. The area makes a great drive, stopping and strolling at several towns, enjoying a pint or two at others.

             Stratford-on-Avon, a lovely town at the southern end of the Cotswold is perhaps the most important of the villages and, of course, famous as the birthplace of William Shakespeare. Everything in the town is about “the Bard”, including the beautiful Hathaway Cottage where Shakespeare’s wife, Anne Hathaway, lived. Parking in town is very difficult, with numerous restrictions, and the area is extremely crowded with tourists for much of the year, but it is certainly worthy of a morning or afternoon, especially for fans of Shakespeare.

             The village of Chipping Campden is the quintessential Cotswold Village. The buildings are all constructed with the honey-colored Cotswold stone which characterizes the area. Just northeast of the village are the Hidcote Manor Gardens, well worth a slight detour.

             The town of Broadway is also pleasant to stroll, especially along High Street, with its lovely homes and other buildings.

             Bibury is another beautiful town, noted for its Arlington Row, cottages from the 17^th century which are protected and preserved by England’s National Trust.

             Lastly, the town of Cirencester offers scenic walks and lodging for those inclined to spend several days in the area.

             Hike along Warden’s Way, a footpath connecting Upper and Lower Slaughter and, if time permits, to Bourton-on-the-Water.

 

        6. York

             York, England, a walled, Medieval city in the northern part of the country, is a well-preserved look at England during the Middle Ages. The city center is pedestrian-only, cobbled, and loaded with charm. Walk the city walls for a great perspective on the area. However, visit during the daytime, since the shops close and everyone seems to disappear after 6 PM.

             The York Minster, the largest Gothic cathedral north of the Alps, is stunning inside, with its intricate choir screen, made of stone, depicting kings of England, and its beautiful Chapter House.

             Travel north from York into Northumberland to visit the Durham Cathedral, another of England’s Norman churches whose construction began in the 11^th century. Also visit the nearby Norman Castle.

             While in the York vicinity, get a good map of the area and take a driving tour of North York’s Moors National Park for an intriguing look at this landscape, made famous in the classic novel, Wuthering Heights.

 

        7. Lake District

             The Lake District of England is a major vacationland for the British who flock here during the summer months, as well as for tourists who are drawn to its isolation, in the northwestern part of England, far from the major tourist areas to the south. Lovely towns abound, such as Windermere and Grasmere, and the lake and mountain scenery is beautiful. It has obviously become popular because of the opportunity for water sports and recreation and as a place to “get away from it all”.

             An interesting day trip from the Lakes region is to drive south to Stoke-on-Trent, one of England’s major centers for the production of fine china. Factories such as Wedgwood and Spode, which are world-famous in the field, offer retail outlets for the purchase of china, and some, like Wedgwood, offer tours of the facility where the fascinating process is demonstrated and discussed.

 

         8. Oxford

              Oxford, England is, of course, immediately associated with the great University, one of the world’s best. The town of Oxford is a typical university town, in that all life seems to revolve around the people and events of the college. The “campus” is fairly spread out but extremely pleasant to stroll. One can’t help but feel somewhat spiritual or awed by the fact that so many of history’s greatest scholars, writers, scientists, etc. walked these same streets and pathways. Oxford is known as the city of “dreamy spires” since so many steeples stretch heavenward here. Notable structures include Christ Church and the Radcliffe Camera. Oxford even has its own “bridge of sighs”

              In the vicinity is another of England’s remarkable castles. Warwick Castle is another classic castle, very large, formidable, high on a hill -- a true fortress. The interior of the castle is elegantly displayed, with wax figures representing residents and visitors, and realistic scenes in the rooms, as they were in 1898. The settings are very impressive, with great attention to detail, such as, running water in the bath, the lighting of a cigarette lighter, etc. In the great hall, there is a fantastic display of medieval armor and weaponry, and the furniture throughout the castle is extraordinary. The castle grounds are also meticulous and provide a wonderful experience.

              Also near Oxford and well worth a visit is Blenheim Palace, in Woodstock, England, a masterpiece of Baroque architecture and, perhaps more importantly, the birthplace of Winston Churchill. Be sure to check out the Long Library, over 180 feet long, the Salon (parlor), with its wall and ceiling paintings, and, especially, the Park and Gardens.

 

         9. Cambridge

             Cambridge, England, like Oxford above, is a university town with an incredibly exalted tradition. Numerous colleges (31 in all) make up this university. Of note are the King’s College Chapel, with its awe-inspiring fan-vaulted ceilings and its altarpiece, The Adoration of the Magi, painted by Rubens. Once again, there is a “bridge of sighs”, this time over the Cam river and it is interesting for visitors to either watch or participate in an age-old tradition at Cambridge -- “punting on the Cam”, which involves poling a flat-bottomed boat down the river.          

 

        10. Wales

                Wales, located to the west of England, is part of what is known as Great Britain, ruled by the Prime Minister and Parliament of London, and paying allegiance to the England’s monarch, but is, in every other sense of the word, a separate country. Fiercely independent and proud, the Welsh people definitely possess their own individuality.

               Despite its size, Wales has almost 300 castles (some in ruins), so the country is a castle-lover’s dream come true. Some of the more notable ones are Caernarfon, Beaumaris, Conwy, and Harlech in the north, and Cardiff and Powis in the south. Another important sight is St David’s Cathedral, built in the 12^th century to commemorate the country’s patron saint. Also on the site is are the ruins of the Bishop’s Palace.

               Wordsworth fans will want to know that the ruins of Tintern Abbey can be found in the far eastern part of South Wales, near the town of Monmouth. Walk the marked woodland path to Devil’s Pulpit for a commanding view of the valley and the abbey.

 

        11. Chester

              Chester, England, is a marvelous example of the preservation of the past by design. It looks like a thoroughly Medieval city, yet most of the buildings date to the 1700’s and 1800’s, but were built in the older Tudor style so seem much older. There are even Roman elements dating back to the 1^st century.

              The combined effect is truly charming and Chester is a delightful place to spend the day. There are almost two miles of intact walls which can be walked for free. Check out the photogenic Eastgate Clock (built in 1897 although giving the illusion of older) and listen to the Town Crier who, twice a day, calls out information about special events.

              Shopping is handled in an unusual way at The Rows, Tudor-style buildings which have shops on both the ground level and the second storey. Upper shops are connected by a balcony so that shoppers don’t even get wet when it rains. The Rows are prominent along several streets of town, including Watergate, Eastgate, Northgate, and Bridge Streets.

              Beatles aficionados will want to know that just 20 miles (32 kilometers) north of Chester is the city of Liverpool where numerous tours take visitors to famous Beatles’ locations.

 

 

      Egypt is one of the most fascinating destinations in the world. A visit requires the visitor to become immersed in one of the world's greatest civilizations. The Egyptian Civilization spanned almost 4,000 years, leaving a legacy of monuments and culture that is staggering in its volume and complexity. Although the country of today has taken its place in the modern world, much of this legacy is preserved for the tourist. It is a must-visit location on any true traveler's life list.

     Below are the major sights in this incredibly rich touist destination.

 

     1. Pyramids of Giza and Cairo

          Cairo, Egypt, is the largest city in all of Africa with over 20,000,000 people and the city is appropriately chaotic, to say the least. It is a true mix of ancient and modern and pulsates with activity at all times of the day or night. However, it is also rich in noteworthy attractions and serves as the primary gateway into the multitude of sights which involve one of the longest-lasting and most important civilizations in recorded history, the Egyptian Civilization.

           The main square, at least for tourists, is Maydan-al-Tahrir (Liberation Square), just outside Old Cairo. On the square is one of the greatest museums in the world, the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities, which has a simply incredible collection of artifacts devoted to the history of this great civilization, which began around the year 3,000 BC and continued, with subtle changes, to about 30 BC when Egypt fell under the Roman Empire.

           As with all great museums, it is impossible to see everything in a single visit so choices must be made. Below are the must-sees for the typical tourist in Egypt.

           The First Floor is the most important destination because it holds the Mummy Gallery, a collection of real mummies from history, and also several rooms devoted to King Tutankhamen, including his death mask and golden throne.

           On the Ground Floor, the Amarna Gallery and the Statue of Ka-Aper are particularly impressive.

           The following is a brief description of some of the other major attractions for the tourist in Cairo:

           If the weather is clear, ride the lift to the top of the Cairo Tower for grand views of the city and onward even to the Nile delta and the Pyramids.

           The Mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun, which dates to 876 AD contains an unusual spiral minaret. It is fairly simple but, nevertheless, elegant. Note the exceptional Pulpit, next to the Mihrab, the niche which indicates to the congregation the direction of Mecca.

           Another mosque, the Mosque of Sultan Hassan, built in 1356 AD, is a good example of Mamluk architecture. Its 266 foot (90 meter) minaret is the city’s tallest. The Mihrab here is exquisite, and the tomb of the Sultan (although he’s not buried in it) is spectacular.

           The Al-Ahzar Mosque is not only the first (10^th century) mosque built in the city, but is also the world’s largest university and a leading center for Islamic education.

           The Citadel is a fortress built in 1176 AD by Saladin to repel invading Crusaders and occupies the high ground in the city, thus providing fantastic views. It was destroyed by an explosion in 1824 AD, but palaces and mosques were built over the ruins. Here the visitor will find the Alabaster Mosque, a city landmark which was modeled after the Aya Sophia in Istanbul and dedicated to Mohammed Ali, the independent nation‘s first ruler. Also here is the Al-Hram Palace, built as a harem, but now converted to a museum.

           One of the most important places to visit in Cairo is the Khan al-Khalili Bazaar, which dates to 1382 AD. Not only are the sights and smells within the bazaar an indication of the true essence of the city, but the architecture is also significant. The maze of alleys and dead-ends of the bazaar are lined with all manner of goods. The displays are not just for tourists, since residents also shop here.

           One of the interesting sights in Old Cairo, the ancient walled city within the new one, is the Hanging Church, which dates to the 11^th century. It was built on the old Roman fortress of Babylon, which gave it its name. Its interior is exquisite and extremely ornate. Note, in particular, the Sanctuary Screens made of cedar with inlaid ivory. Walking the narrow streets and alleyways of the Old City gives a visitor the sensation of stepping into the past.

           To escape, for a time, the hustle and bustle of the city, take a stroll through the tranquil Ezbekiya Gardens.

           The most important excursion from Cairo is 15 kilometers (9 miles) west in the suburb of Giza, the home of the last remaining of the original “Seven Wonders of the World”, the Pyramids of Giza. There are three Great Pyramids which were erected as tombs for the Pharaohs of the time. The largest of the three is the Pyramid of Cheops (or Khufu) which was built in 2560 BC. It stands almost 140 meters (450 feet) tall. It is located just south of the ticket office and its sides face the four cardinal directions, with its entrance on the north.

           It contains three burial chambers but these and the mausoleums of all three Pharaohs were long ago robbed of their treasures. On the south side of this pyramid is a building which contains the Solar Boat which actually carried the dead ruler down the Nile to his place of rest.

           The next pyramid is the Pyramid of Chephren (Khafre) which actually looks larger than Khufu’s but is just on higher ground. There is a 32 meter (100 foot) passageway which leads inside to the burial chamber.

           Khafre’s complex also includes a Mortuary Temple which was used for prayers and sacrifices to the Pharaoh, and the Valley Temple, connected by a 500 meter (1500 foot) causeway to the mortuary. The ruler was mummified in the Valley Temple.

           Near Khafre’s Valley Temple is the statue of the Sphinx, with the body of a lion and the head of a man. Archaeologists believe that it was either a statue of Khafre or a guardian of the necropolis. In front of his paws is a granite stele which was erected in 1424 BC by Tuthmosis IV.

           The last of the Great Pyramids is also the smallest, the Pyramid of Mykerinos (Menkaure). It is only 62 meters (200 feet) high.

           Many visitors who visit during the day also return in the evening for the Sound and Light Show, at a theater beside the Sphinx. Giza is also a great place to take a ride on a camel.

           Another popular excursion from Cairo is to Saqqara, 27 kilometers (15 miles) southwest of the city. This place was once the royal necropolis of the ancient city of Memphis, once the capital of the First Dynasty. Here visitors will find the famous Step Pyramid of Djoser (Zoser) which dates to about 2800 BC and was the first pyramid-style tomb ever constructed. Prior to this time, rulers were buried under mounded ground in tombs called mastabas.

           There are also the mastabas of a number of Pharaohs at Saqqara. In particular, the Mastaba of Ti has magnificent reliefs.

           Adjoining the necropolis are the remains of the city of Memphis. Tourists are typically impressed with the Alabaster Sphinx and the gigantic Statue of Ramses II.

           Venture out of Cairo into the suburb of Heliopolis, now known as New Cairo, which was a planned, wealthy community, built in the early 20^th century, with some interesting and unusual architecture. Much of the original structures are long gone and have been replaced with suburban residences, however, a few remain. Uruba Palace is now the residence of the Egyptian President. The Baron’s Palace was actually based on an Angkor Wat temple. The Sharia Ibrahim Laqqany has an elaborate façade with fanciful turrets.

 

       2. Luxor

            Luxor, Egypt, is the modern city on the site of the ancient city of Thebes. It probably has more examples of Egyptian civilization than anywhere else in the world. It has also become the most important tourist destination in Upper Egypt. Luxor lies 675 kilometers (420 miles) south of Cairo (see #1 above) and straddles the Nile River. It is also a popular starting point for Nile Cruises.

             Luxor and Karnak are on the eastern side of the Nile, while the famous necropolis which includes the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, and the Temple of Ramses II are on the western bank.

             The Temple of Luxor, one of the major sights in the area, was built by Amenhotep III and Ramses II and is dedicated to the triad of Egyptian deities, Amun, the father, who later merged with Ra, the Sun-god, to become Amun-Ra, the Creator, Mut, the wife and mother and mistress of heaven, and Khansu, the son and Moon-God.

             Outside the Ramses court is a tall obelisk which describes the Battle of Kadesh. There were originally two obelisks, but one was given to France and still stands in the Place de la Concorde, in Paris. Attached to this court is a mosque.

             Between the courts of Ramses and Amenhotep is the Colonnade, an impressive series of 14 pillars.

             In the Sanctuary of Amun are bas-reliefs which were added by Alexander the Great.

             The Temple of Luxor is connected to the Temple of Karnak by a three kilometer (2 mile) walkway (dromos) called the Avenue of the Sphinxes. The Temple of Karnak was built and added to for over 2,000 years by various Pharaohs, each one trying to outdo previous efforts, so it is an extremely grand complex.

             The most important part of the complex is the Temple of Amun. The gateway into the temple is 170 feet (almost 60 meters) high. The Hypostyle Hall is an incredible architectural treasure. It is so large that Notre Dame Cathedral could fit inside. It is composed of 134 sandstone columns, in 16 rows, a veritable forest of stone, a symbolic garden. The columns and walls are richly decorated with colored reliefs.

             There are many other buildings, obelisks, halls and other structures to explore, and there is a Sound and Light Spectacle in the evening.

             On the western side of the Nile is the famous necropolis of Thebes. The Valley of Kings, one section of the necropolis, contains the tombs of most of the Egyptian Pharaohs between 1539 and 1075 BC (the 18^th and 19^th Dynasties). They are decorated with magical recipes from the Book of the Dead, pictures, and/or biographies.

             There are many tombs here, but several which should definitely be visited include the Tomb of Tutankhamen (Tomb #62), the most famous of them all (everyone has heard of King Tut’s Tomb). When discovered, this tomb had an incredible amount of gold, as well as the actual mummy of the Pharaoh, but much of the contents have been removed and reside in the Egyptian Museum (see #1 above).

             The Tomb of Ramses VI (Tomb #9) has one of the longest chambers and is noted for the winged serpents guarding the entrance to the burial chamber, and its ceiling with astronomical designs.

             The largest is the Tomb of Seti I. It also has exquisite reliefs throughout its eleven chambers and rooms.

             Another section of the necropolis, called the Valley of the Queens, consists of approximately 70 tombs (so far) and includes several excellent attractions. The Tomb of Queen Nefertari, the wife of Ramses II, for instance, is completely decorated with pictures from the Book of the Dead, etc. Also notable is the Tomb-Chapel of Prince Amun hir Khopshef, the son of Ramses III.

             A third section, actually the closest to the river, is known as the Tombs of the Nobles. Here there are over 500 graves, many of whose paintings offer a glimpse into life in Egypt at the time. A few of the interesting ones include the Tomb-Chapel of Nakht (#52), the Tomb of Rekhmire (#100), the Tomb-Chapel of Ramose (#55), and the Tomb-Chapel of Menna (#69).

            Also of note in this section of the necropolis are the Colossi of Memnon, the 70 foot (19 meters) high guardians of one of the mortuaries, and the Mortuary Temple of Ramses III, one of the best-preserved of these ancient monuments.

 

        3. Abu Simbel

             Abu Simbel, Egypt, located about 175 miles (270 kilometers) southwest of Aswan, is one of Egypt’s finest relics of the Dynastic period. Although erected in the 1200’s BC, the site was basically buried in sand and only rediscovered in 1813. Its history is further complicated by the fact that when the Aswan Dam was proposed, it would be submerged, so the government decided to move the entire complex in the 1950’s and 60’s. What a monumental feat!

             This site is noted primarily for the Great Temple of Abu Simbel, an incredible monument which was carved out of a cliff. It was built to honor Pharaoh, Ramses II, one of Egypt’s most famous rulers, and the tribute is certainly worthy of a hero. The 33 meter (108 foot) façade is graced with four huge (21 meter/70 foot) seated colossi of the king. The Hypostyle Hall has carved figures on its pillars, a ceiling decorated with Osiris-like vultures, and wall relief of battle scenes. The statues of the Sanctuary were once covered in gold.

             The other complex at Abu Simbel is considerably smaller but equally impressive. The Temple of Hathor was built by Ramses II to honor his favorite wife, Nefertari. It is similar to the other temple in that the façade is carved from the cliff-face, but the six colossi are only 10 meters (32 feet) high. The Hypostyle Hall here has Hathor-headed columns.

             Although there is a road to Abu Simbel from Aswan, most travelers take the short 30 minute flight and then return the same day.

 

       4. Nile Cruise

              A Nile Cruise is a necessary part of any trip to Egypt since the river was so important to this civilization. It was the super-highway and life-blood of ancient Egypt and affected the existence of the entire population in numerous ways. The majority of cruise ships (and there are numerous types and styles) ply the waters between Luxor and Aswan, where the river ceases to become navigable.

              Typical stops along the way include Esna, 30 miles (48 kilometers) south of Luxor, on the west bank of the Nile, where visitors will find the Temple of Khnum (the Ram-headed god). The Hypostyle Hall is virtually all that remains. Its 24 columns with flowered capitals support the roof whose ceiling is decorated with astronomical pictures.

              The next stop is usually Edfu, which is equidistant between Luxor and Aswan, 70 miles (110 kilometers) from each. It boasts the Temple of Horus (the falcon-headed god), the largest and best-preserved Ptolemaic temple in the country. Its impressive First Pylon is 36 meters (120 feet) tall and is decorated with battle scenes. The entrance to the pylon is flanked by two black granite statues of Horus and leads into the colonnaded Hypostyle Court. The Hall of Offerings contains a stairway which leads to a roof terrace which has great views (visitors may have to compensate the guard to gain access). The staircase walls are decorated with an astronomical theme. The Sanctuary contains a granite shrine to the god.

               Edfu also is the site of one of several Nilometers which were used by the ancients to keep track of the Nile’s water level and to predict the degree of flooding which they should expect.

               Kom Ombo, 30 miles (48 kilometers) north of Aswan, is the next stop. The Temple of Kom Ombo was built in the second century BC and is dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile-headed god, and Horus, the falcon. Its Hypostyle Hall contains eight columns whose capitals have a lotus motif. The Chapel of Hathor displays a number of crocodile mummies.

               The last stop on the cruise is the city of Aswan, the southernmost city in Egypt, and the site of the famous dams built to control the seasonal flooding of the Nile. It is located at what is called the First Cataract (rapids) of the Nile and is the terminus of the navigable portion of the river. It is often used by tourists as a stopover for a visit to Abu Simbel. The city itself has a lively street market, the Souq, composed of many tightly-packed, narrow alleys. It also has a very attractive waterfront boulevard, known as the Corniche.

               Also in the city is the Unfinished Obelisk which has three completed sides but was abandoned and left still attached to the bedrock when a crack was noticed in the stone.

               There are several river islands here that make for a pleasant excursion. Elephantine Island is the most popular and can be easily accessed via ferry. It boasts a Nilometer and two Nubian Villages.

                Kitchener’s Island is basically a botanical garden and makes for a great stroll or a quiet respite.

                Agilika Island is the current home of the Temple of Isis, moved because it would be submerged when the High Dam was built. This temple, guarded by two granite lions, has a glorious setting, and, in the evening, is the scene of an excellent Sound and Light Show. Other structures on the island include the Temple of Hathor, now in ruins, and the nearby Kiosk of Trajan with interesting capitals on its pillars.

                On the west bank of the river here are several attractions which are worthwhile to visit. The Mausoleum of the Aga Khan is an interesting domed and turreted memorial to the ruler. The Monastery of St Simeon, now in ruins, dates to the 7^th century AD and resembles a fortress. An ascent to the monastery provides a great view. Finally, the hills to the south are pockmarked with the Tombs of the Nobles. Most have not stood the test of time very well, but the Tomb of Prince Sirenput II (#31) is the best preserved.

 

        5. Alexandria

              Alexandria, Egypt, is located 225 kilometers (150 miles) northwest of Cairo (see #1 above) and sprawls for 24 kilometers (16 miles) along the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. The city has a storied history. It was commissioned by Alexander the Great in 331 BC and was famous in antiquity as the location of the Pharos Lighthouse, one of Herodotus’ original “Seven Wonders of the World”. It was also home to the greatest library in the ancient world. However, these sights are long gone and the city fell victim to a serious decline, but has recently been resurrected.

             Its New Library, a very modernistic, architectural gem, opened in 2002 and seeks to restore the city to prominence as a center of knowledge. Other attractions include the Roman Amphitheater, with its numerous marble terraces and seating for about 800, Pompey’s Pillar, a 30 meter (90 foot) column which dates to 293 AD, the eerie Catacombs of Kom El-Shoqafa, home to approximately 300 bodies, Quaitbey Fort, a fortress on the site of the ancient lighthouse, and Montazah Palace with its lush gardens.

             Another city landmark is Saad Zaghloul Square which sits along the beautiful Corniche or waterfront boulevard.

       France has long been one of the premier travel destinations in Europe, primarily because of the allure of Paris, but also because there are many other sights that beckon the tourist. France has a long and storied history and is blessed with cultural traditions which vary depending on the region. It is also, perhaps, the most famous wine-making area in the world. Many of the most popular wines are named from the region of France where they originated. Its chefs are considered among the finest in the world. And its people... can 10,000 Frenchmen be wrong?

      Below are descriptions of some of the country's major travel destinations. A photo album will be available shortly.

 

      1. Paris

             Paris may be the most beautiful city in the world. The area around the Seine River is not only historically and culturally significant, but the architecture is stunning. There is no more romantic stroll than a walk along the Seine River at dusk. The Eiffel Tower is visible all along the river.

             The Eiffel Tower is one of the world’s most famous landmarks. It dominates the skyline of Paris and is visible from almost anywhere in the city. It is beautifully lit at night, a spectacular sight. It was the centerpiece of the 1889 World’s Fair and remains today as an icon of the city. Expect long lines to both climb and/or ride (on elevators) to the observation decks. Near the base of the tower, along the river Seine, are the embarkation docks for the Bateaux-Mouche, boats which ride up and down the Seine with their narrated tours of the sights along the river. The boat ride is especially nice in the evening (Paris has very late sunsets in the summer) when it is cooler and the light is softer.

           To the east, the visitor will find the Place de la Concorde, an elegant square and the historical location of the guillotine used to execute King Louis XVI and others in 1793. Today it contains the Luxor Obelisk, an Egyptian monument over 3300 years old. This square is a bit difficult to appreciate because of the noise and traffic.

           Nearby, one will also find the Louvre, perhaps the world’s greatest and, rightfully, most popular Art museum. It is positively huge, and impossible to manage in one visit, so do what most tourists do -- concentrate on a few galleries and/or pieces, then return in subsequent visits to see other parts of the museum. The absolute must sees are the following: Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, in the Italian collection (there are also other Da Vinci’s here, as well as a huge collection of other Renaissance paintings); and the famous sculptures of Venus de Milo (Aphrodite, the Greek Goddess of Love) and the Winged Victory of Samothrace, which are located in the Ancient Greek and Roman section. The Louvre is also famous these days as one of the settings for the popular novel and movie, The Da Vinci Code.

           Try not to be disappointed by the Mona Lisa -- many tourists are, since it such a small painting in such a large room, surrounded by many other more intimidating works. The fact that it is behind glass in also disconcerting for some, since it makes picture-taking more difficult. But a close look at the painting (the crowds do make it difficult to get a clear view) reveals its elegance and mystery.

           Notre Dame Cathedral, one the most beloved houses of worship in the world, located on the Ile de Cite (city island), in the middle of the Seine, is another of the must-see attractions of Paris. It has been immortalized in Victor Hugo’s Hunchback of Notre Dame. Its construction began in the 12th century and is certainly an imposing, Gothic edifice, perhaps the quintessential Gothic cathedral in the world. Its facade has been much copied, while its gargoyles (strange-looking creature sculptures which adorn its exteriors) are the stuff of legend. Note the row of statues (Kings of Judah) and the statue of Mary, mother of Jesus, on the facade. Inside, don’t miss the Rose windows.

           Before leaving the Notre Dame area, walk across the Seine on the bridge to the rear of the church for a spectacular view of the flying buttresses, a distinctive characteristic of Gothic churches, actually an engineering requirement to support the arches, which allow the expansive height of these churches.

           Other areas of the city should also be included on everyone’s travel itinerary. Walk west long the Champs Elysses (an extremely broad, tree-lined avenue, replete with upscale shops and restaurants) to the Arc d’Triomphe, which commands the upper end of the famous street. It is a monument, commissioned by Napoleon, to commemorate his victory at Austerlitz and is the largest memorial of its type in the world. The arch is fittingly located at the convergence of 12 huge avenues, which lead, like spokes of a wheel, away from it. Visitors must walk through a tunnel under the very busy traffic circle to gain access to the arch. Climbing the 284 stairs to the top rewards the visitor with a panoramic view of the city of Paris. The view of the Eiffel Tower from here is especially beautiful.

           Stroll through and/or relax in the Luxembourg Gardens, a treasure of tranquility in this very crowded city.

           Sacre Coeur, another of Paris’s beautiful churches, sits atop the Montmartre section of the city. Its location is extremely prominent, and, although initially disliked by the Parisians, has become one of the city’s many symbols. It is elegant in white, and is best reached by a funicular, since the climb is extremely steep. It also offers a spectacular view of the entire city. Montmartre itself is still the domain of artists and provides a wonderful stroll.

            Near Sacre Coeur, at the bottom of the hill, is the famous Moulin Rouge, a nightclub in the Pigalle (red-light) district. It is certainly worth a look for those who can tolerate the atmosphere of smut and pornography. It still operates as a nightclub, in the evenings.

            The most important excursion from Paris is to Versailles, the epitome of a kingly palace, the envy of monarchs everywhere, often copied, never duplicated. It is located just (about 50 km or 30 miles) west of Paris and makes an excellent day trip. There are numerous options for the visit. Highlights include the Hall of Mirrors, the State Apartments, King’s Apartments, and the Gardens. A guided tour is recommended to get the most from the visit, since guides offer many interesting tidbits of information. Inside, no matter how the visit proceeds, the cacophony of sound from various guides speaking myriad languages, each trying to speak louder that all the others, is disconcerting to say the least. Try to arrive early in the day, before the hordes of buses and their tour groups.

            Another popular day trip is south to the town of Chartres to explore its famous Cathedral. It is considered a model of Gothic architecture and has been copied many times over the years. A cathedral has existed on this site since the 4^th century, although today‘s gothic structure dates to the 12^th century. It is an imposing sight for any visitor since it towers over the town and can be seen for miles.

            The cathedral is famous for its stained glass windows and their very distinctive, glowing, “Chartres-blue” (only recently have scientists discovered that Sodium compounds may be responsible for its uniqueness. Note also the portals over the doors. Much of the church is somewhat run down and should be restored.

            One of the most popular excursions from Paris is to Eurodisney, or Disneyland Paris, the European version of the famous theme park first constructed in Anaheim, California. The European park is similar to its counterparts in the USA except for some of the details, such as language, etc. The park is composed of five major areas or “lands”, Adventureland, Frontierland, Fantasyland, Discoveryland, and Main Street. Each of these “parks within a park” has themed rides, authentic-looking buildings and architecture, as well as shops and restaurants. Disney Characters patrol the park and interact with visitors. An additional area, Walt Disney Studios Park, opened in 2002, showcases the world of motion pictures. It is a great experience for adults and children alike.

 

        2. Mont-St-Michel

               Mont St-Michel rises dramatically from the sea as one approaches from the mainland. It is truly an awe-inspiring sight and positively unique in the world -- an offshore rocky mountain transformed into a place of worship with a village fortress around it. It is difficult to imagine how someone conceived the idea to build such a structure and the engineering involved in its construction makes one marvel at the ability of Medieval stone masons and architects.

               The island is approachable today by a causeway which links it to the mainland and which offers a parking area for vehicles (no cars are allowed inside the walled city). Visitors must walk along the causeway to enter through the Bavole Gate, which leads to the main street, the “cour de l’Avancee”, which then winds upward to the Abbey. The street is crammed with shops and restaurants.

               But the Abbey is the purpose for visiting. It is precariously perched on top of the rocky island and has had an interesting, sometimes surprising, history since construction first began in 708 AD. The church and associated buildings (the Marvel) were built in several architectural styles, including Gothic, Flamboyant Gothic, and Romanesque. Somehow, it all blends together.

               An interesting anecdote about Mont St-Michel focuses on US Astronaut, Alan Shepard, who had the “right stuff” to be chosen as one of the first group of astronauts for the United States manned space program. As a matter of fact, he was the first American to be launched from a rocket. As the story goes, when Shepard was later chosen to participate in a lunar landing, he decided to bring three (3) pairs of rosary beads with him to the moon. When he returned, he kept one pair for himself, gave another to the Pope during an audience subsequent to his return, and he kept the third for a religious site which “truly inspires me”. He gave the third pair of rosary beads to the Abbott of the monastery at Mont St-Michel after his visit there.

           Be sure to see the Abbey Church, the Cloister, the battlements, the Guest’s Room, and the Crypts (not tombs but hidden areas which support the Church and Marvel).

           Take the guided tour for a richer and more meaningful experience since the concept of the church’s construction and layout can be confusing and the history is extremely interesting.

 

      3. Loire Valley

            The Chateaux of the Loire Valley epitomize the power and wealth of 15th and 16th century France. There are numerous mansions in this region, but the mainstays are Chambord and Chenonceau, both striking examples of the indulgences of the time.

            Chambord began as a hunting lodge, but has evolved into perhaps the most elaborate and perhaps garish example of royal excess. Its towers and pinnacles are, nevertheless, imposing and striking.

            Chenonceau is softer and more pleasing, especially because it extends over the river Cher, making for a dramatic effect. On the inside, the part of the villa known as the gallery (an addition supervised by Catherine de Medici) is probably the most interesting part of the visit. Chenonceau’s gardens are also worth a stroll and offer numerous photo opportunities.

            Other chateaux also deserve mention and should be included if the visitor is spending several days in the region. Azay-le-Rideau is a far more intimate castle and seems, not the residence of kings, but of common men and women. Villandry is, perhaps, most noted for its lovely gardens. Blois has a wonderful setting, right on the Loire River, and the town itself invites exploration. Loches also is a charming Medieval village with ramparts which can be walked and the Church of Saint-Ours, which is very interesting. Angers has perhaps the most formidable castle in the entire valley and also has numerous hotels and restaurants so can serve as a base of operations. The city of Tours is perhaps a better base since it is closer to the most popular of the chateaux.

 

      4. Alsace Region

             The Alsace is an area of France near the German-Swiss border which has changed hands (between France and Germany) many times over its history. It is also a major wine-producing area of France today, and its “Wine Road” (Route du Vin) is extremely popular with knowledgeable tourists. The incredibly attractive villages along the road vie for attention, with their walled Medieval flavor, their obligatory castle on the hill, and with an unbelievable display of flowers hanging from window boxes, on street lights, etc. Strolling through several of the villages, sampling the wines, and having lunch in one of the many restaurants or cafes, makes a great day trip.

              All the villages are attractive, but try to stop at Riquewihr, Ribeauville and Kaysersberg (the birthplace of Dr. Albert Schweitzer) in particular. Others include Obernai, and Turckheim. Colmar makes a great base of operations if staying in the area for several days.

              In the vicinity is the city of Strasbourg, one of Europe’s most elegant cities. It was founded in 12 A.D. by the son of Augustus. The most famous sight in the city is its beautiful pink-limestone Cathedral, which dates from the 12th century. Its Gothic spire is one of Christianity’s highest. Inside the cathedral, watch at 12:30 PM for the elaborate Astronomical Clock, complete with moving Apostles and angels, to strike noon!! There are less elaborate displays at the quarter-hours. Pet the tiny carved dog on the pulpit for good luck.

             Self-Walking tours of the city are available at the Tourist Information Office. Also take advantage of the excellent museums, if so inclined.

             Another possible base of operations for an exploration of this region is the Swiss city of Basel, located at a bend in the Rhine River where France, Germany, and Switzerland meet. Basel has a cute, little Old Town with a bright, red Town Hall and several interesting fountains.

 

      5. Monaco

             Monaco, a tiny principality on the French Riviera, is world-famous for its casino (Monte Carlo) and for its royalty and wealthy visitors. The entire area is positively spotless and totally geared for tourism, especially involving the rich and famous. The view from the park in front of the casino, looking toward the casino, with its beautiful flowers, fountains, and flags, is picture-perfect.

             Inside the casino, the elegance is pervasive, making this an extremely comfortable place to lose money. Check out the Hotel de Paris, right next door, for a further glimpse into the lifestyles of the pampered and catered-to.

             Walk down to the harbor to drool at perhaps the most expensive fleet of yachts in the world.

 

      6. Provence

              Avignon, France, is in the heart of the Provence region and, besides being a major tourist destination on its own, makes a great center of operations for an exploration of this charming area. The city traces its roots to Roman times although little is left from those days. However, the Place de l’Horloge, the main gathering place in the city with its many cafes and restaurants, is built over the location of the ancient Roman forum.

              The Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) recalls another critical event in the history of Avignon. Pope Clement V moved the papal residence from Rome to Avignon in 1309, to escape the bickering and in-fighting in Rome, where it continued until 1403 (although from 1378 to 1403 there were two popes, one in Rome and the other in Avignon). This palace is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

              Above the Palace is the Parc de Rochers des Doms, once the domain of Cardinals and Bishops, now a public park, where a walkway offers superb views of the surrounding countryside, including the Pont St-Benezet, which spans the nearby Rhone river, to an island in the middle of the river. It is also a World Heritage Site, although 18 of its original arches have been destroyed over the years.

              Provence’s Villages, in the minds of some, rival Tuscan villages in charm and ambience. A visit to the area should include at least several, depending on time.

              One area which should not be missed is the Luberon, a ridge of hills to the east of Avignon. Towns that merit a visit here include Roussillon, with its picturesque square and lovely panoramic views of the surrounding area, Fontaine de Vaucluse, which, along with Gordes, is extremely popular with tourists, Joucas, which is often skipped in favor of other towns, Lacoste, Bonnieux, Oppede le Vieux, and Goult. Expect windy conditions throughout the area during any season.

              Another cluster of villages are found in the Cotes du Rhone area, north of Avignon and the Luberon. This area is an important wine-producing region of France. Among these towns are Vaison la Romaine, with its Lower City and pedestrian-only Hill Town above; Gigondas, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which has the ruins of the Papal summer residence; and Orange, with its Roman Theater, still in use for entertainment.

              While in Avignon, be sure to take an excursion west of the city to the Pont du Gard, a perfectly preserved Roman aqueduct which supplied water to the city of Nimes. The attraction is well-developed as a tourist sight with the Grande Expo, a visitor center of sorts, which offers a film, a museum, and activities for children to appreciate the sight better. Be sure to walk out to the aqueduct to inspect and get a feel for its construction.

 

       7. Eze

             Eze, in southern France, along the French Riviera, between Nice and Monaco, is a wonderful half-day trip from either location. It is a Medieval hill town, perfectly preserved, with breath-taking views of the Mediterranean. It requires a steep walk up the narrow, cobblestone street, but is worth every huff and puff. Stop, for a rest, at the myriad boutiques, shops, and restaurants.

             For an interesting and unusual experience, stop at the perfume outlets (Fragonard or Gallimard) to learn about the manufacture of perfume and to sample and/or purchase the fragrances.

             For a spectacular view of the French Riviera from atop the village, visit the Jardins Exotiques, an additional expense.

 

      8. Nice & the French Riviera

             Nice and the French Riviera are located on the southern shores of France. This particular area of the Mediterranean is stunningly beautiful and has become a playground for both the rich and famous as well as the average tourist. Nice is a great base of operations for exploring this area, since it is central, is an attraction in its own right, and has extensive lodging accommodations and other tourist services.

             Vieux (Old) Nice is a charming area with narrow streets, squares, shops and restaurants. Any time spent in Nice should include a stroll up and down the Promenade des Anglais, the boulevard along the beach. Here, one can admire the “beautiful people” who frequent the cobbled beach, check out the elegant hotels, and enjoy the semi-tropical ambiance.

             Parallel with the Promenade, behind the numerous hotels which face the beach, is a pedestrian street which offers shops, restaurants and crowds of people.

             Other towns along this section of the Mediterranean coast include Cannes, world famous for its film festival which takes place each year in May and attracts some of the most famous celebrities in the world. The Croisette is its elegant, tree-lined walkway which runs from the casino, past numerous sheik hotels, to the port.

             Another equally famous town is Saint-Tropez whose Vieux Port is great for people-watching and browsing upscale shops.

             Saint-Paul-de-Vence is a walled, Medieval town with fountains and flower-laden terraces.

             The port city of Marseille has seen a resurgence recently and seems to be trying to vie with Nice as the capital of the area.

 

      9. Normandy Beaches

            The Normandy Beaches, because of their significance during World War II and their connections, as a result, to the many descendants of soldiers from that era, present a moving experience for the visitor. It is interesting to drive along the roads parallel to the beaches, stopping at various towns or gaining access to the water to see some of the remnants of the campaign which are still visible.

            Omaha Beach, near the town of Colleville is probably the most popular tourist stop, since this was the main location used by American troops, and has been much documented in a number of movies. Walk down to the beach to get an idea of how intimidating it must have been for the soldiers to try to land on this strip of sand with little or no cover and ascend to the distant ridge, heavily fortified with German machine guns.

            Then travel to the American Cemetery to be overwhelmed with the number of graves of servicemen who died in the days around D-Day. There are 9,387 Americans buried here and this number represents only about 40% of the actual casualties. It is a very sobering experience. Wander awhile amongst the graves and visit the memorial which commemorates their sacrifice.

            A great base of operations for an exploration of this area is the city of Caen, which, besides offering accommodations and numerous restaurants for visitors, also has several attractions worth a short visit. These include the Chateau Ducal, the castle-palace of William the Conqueror, which was constructed around 1060 AD, the Men’s Abbey, and the Ladies’ Abbey.

           Between Caen and the Normandy Beaches is the lovely town of Bayeaux, which is world-famous for its Bayeaux Tapestry, an 85 meter (250 foot) long depiction of the events leading up to and including the Battle of Hastings, which took place in 1066 AD, in England, and forever changed the history of Europe and the Western World.

           While in Normandy, travel east to the coastal town of Honfleur, France. This town has gained a reputation as an artist colony due to the work of a number of Impressionists, particularly Claude Monet. It is located on the northern shore of France, in the very eastern part of Normandy. It is a charming, picturesque fishing village with a lovely harbor and attractive buildings along the water, narrow, cobbled streets with many shops and restaurants. The most important attraction besides the village itself is the Church of St Catherine, the oldest, surviving wooden church in France.

 

      10. Beaune

            Beaune, France is a charming village in the Burgundy region of France, just south of Dijon. Besides wine-making, Beaune is noted for its hospices (almshouses), the most famous and recognizable of which is the Hotel-Dieu. Note the distinctive colored roof tiles and the easy-to-walk, pedestrian-only streets. Residents decorate their homes and businesses with flowers which add to the charm.

            Also in the Burgogne (Burgundy), a popular and worthwhile stop is Vezelay, whose Romanesque Basilica of Sainte Madeleine has lured pilgrims since its construction in the 11^th century.

 

      11. Carcassone

             Carcassonne, France, a walled city, also in the Provence region (see #above), is the largest fortress in Europe. La Cite’ is actually surrounded by two walls and includes 38 towers. The city was never taken in battle, although often threatened, and has had a long and interesting history. Visitors can check out the Chateau Comtal, a 12th century palace, and the Cathedrale St-Michel. Part of Carcassonne’s history is connected with the Knights Templar, of Da Vinci Code fame and has been documented frequently, of late, due to the popularity of the book.

 

      12. Lyon

             Lyon, France, bills itself as the “gastronomic capital of France” but it has much more than good food to offer the tourist. There are three basic areas of the city which are the domain of the traveler.

             Fourviere Hill is the location of the white-domed Notre Dame Basilica. The inside is covered with mosaics depicting the events in Mary’s life. The Lower Church is dedicated to St Joseph and is considerably less elaborate. Note the golden statue of the virgin outside the church.

             Vieux Lyon (the Old Town) has perhaps the largest concentration of Renaissance buildings in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area is noted for its covered pathways (Traboules) which link streets and homes. Entry into this mysterious world is through heavy doors. Unfortunately, only a few of the 300 or so are actually open to the public, but these are worthwhile in that they provide access to several hidden courtyards. The St Jean Cathedral is an interesting combination of Gothic and Romanesque architectural styles since its construction spanned a considerable amount of time.

             Presqu’ile refers to the land between Lyon’s two rivers and is the major shopping district of the city. Place des Terreaux is its vibrant center and contains the City Hall and a famous fountain by Bertholdi (the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty).

             Lyon is attractively lit at night. Check out the scene from the Bonaparte Bridge.

 

      Turkey has long been a crossroads between East and West. Today, it straddles the boundary between Asia and Europe. Its major city, Istanbul, formerly Constantinople and capital of Byzantium, is actually partly in Europe and partly in Asia. The Bosporus, the traditional boundary between the two continents, splits the city in half. As one would expect, the cultural and architectural elements also suggest its duality. There are, of course, other amazing sights in this large and mountainous country. Join me on a tour of the "best" that Turkey has to offer the traveler. Then, later, check out my photo album.

 

      1. Istanbul

             Istanbul sits at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. As a matter of fact, the city straddles the boundary between the two continents, with its western end part of Europe and its eastern side in Asia. Formerly known as Constantinople, this city was also the capital of the Roman Empire from 306 AD until the fall of the Empire.

             Istanbul occupies a strategic location at the mouth of the Bosporus strait where it joins the Sea of Marmara, an entry into the Aegean Sea and further into the Mediterranean. To the north the Bosporus empties into the Black Sea.

             It is a huge city, with a population of around 13,000,000. Because of its location, it is also a cultural crossroads and the population is extremely diverse. The major tourist attractions are located on the European side of the Bosporus.

             They include the Hagia Sophia, built by the Roman Emperor, Justinian, in 532-537 AD. Hagia (or Aya) Sophia, is located west of the Bosporus, the strait which divides Asia from Europe. It began as a church, became a mosque after the fall of the Roman Empire, and is now a museum. It was one of the most important and largest churches in the world. It sported the largest dome in the world until St Peter’s Basilica in Rome was completed. The inside is positively huge, covering an area of about 4 acres, and contains fabulous mosaics, dating from the 10th century. The current building dates from the time of Justinian and was completed in 537 AD. The minarets were much more recent additions, recalling the Turkish conquest of what was then Constantinople. There is still debate today about whether the Aya Sophia is a church or a mosque.

             The Blue Mosque, reputed by many to be the most beautiful mosque in the world, is located next to the Hippodrome, part of the old Roman section of Istanbul. It is called the Blue Mosque because its interior is covered in blue tiles and mosaics. It is truly spectacular. The visitor must remove his/her shoes and females must cover their heads during their visit. Also, shorts are not allowed. The floors are carpeted and lights hang from the high ceilings by wires. The Mihrab, the most sacred part of the mosque, the area which points the worshipper in the direction of Mecca, is gold and intricately decorated. The interior is huge and is sometimes host to 25,000 devotees for prayer service. The Blue Mosque is one of only two mosques in the world with six minarets (the other is in Mecca).

            Topkapi Palace, another of the major sights of Istanbul, was the residence of the Ottoman sultans from the 1400’s to the 19th century. During their heyday, they ruled an empire which stretched from the gates of Vienna to the Indian Ocean, from North Africa to the Crimean Peninsula. The palace complex is basically a city within a city, with interconnected courtyards and kiosks along with other buildings. Within its walls were typically between 4000 and 7000 people who resided here and/or served the household. The complex stands at the confluence of the Sea of Marmara, the Bosporus, and the Golden Horn and offers spectacular views over the water.

            Entry is through the Imperial Gate which accesses the First Court, now a public park lined with flowers and trees. At the end of this court are the ticket booths and the Executioner’s Fountain, where important enemies were beheaded.

            Entry into the Second Court is through the Gate of Salutations. Its two towers were used as dungeons to imprison those awaiting execution. The Palace Kitchens, to the right, upon entering this court, are a series of rooms which now house a collection of Chinese, Japanese, and European porcelain. The kitchens once prepared food for upwards of 10,000 people. On the opposite side of this court are the Armoury, which displays weapons from Islamic empires, and the Council Chamber, where policy meetings were held (the sultan’s cubicle is directly above and he could listen in on the meetings to keep tabs on his officials). Also in this court is the Harem, where the palace women were sequestered. Harem tours require separate tickets and should be booked immediately upon arrival to insure a place.

            The Gate of Felicity marks the entrance into the Third Court. The most impressive attraction in this court is the Treasury, which contains unbelievable wealth in gold and jewels, including an 86-carat diamond (the “Spoonmaker”), the “throne of Ahmet III” which is inlaid with tortoiseshell and mother of pearl, set with rubies and emeralds, and the Topkapi Dagger which is set with huge emeralds (this item recalls the film, “Topkapi” which starred Melina Mercouri). Also in the Third Court is the Pavilion of the Sacred Relics, one room of which contains the Door of Repentance, taken from the holy Kaaba of Mecca. The second room houses objects associated with Mohammed, such as his footprint, hair, mantle and sword.

            The Fourth Court contains the kiosks, or summer houses, in its gardens and leads to balconies overlooking the waterways mentioned earlier.

            The Grand (Covered) Bazaar is the ultimate shopping experience, the largest mall in the world with over 3,000 shops selling just about everything imaginable. There are “streets” of jewelry shops, rug shops, ceramics, etc. Haggling is expected and required in order to get a bargain. Just strolling through the tunnel-like lanes is an eye-popping experience.

            Other sights worthy of attention are the Spice Market, where an incredible variety of spices can be purchased in any quantity, the Hippodrome, a relic of the city’s Roman chariot-racing days, which today contains several Egyptian obelisks (one dating to 1500 BC) as well as a relic from the Delphic Oracle/Temple of Apollo.

             Stroll down Istiklal Caddesi, a pedestrian-only street in the Beyoglu section of the city for shopping and dining opportunities. It runs roughly north to south from Taksim Square, a huge gathering place where frequent demonstrations and other events occur, almost to the Golden Horn, the waterway which separates the ancient city from the more modern areas.

             Take a cruise of the Bosporus (boats leave frequently from a dock at the entrance to the Golden Horn, across from the Spice Market) for a look at the Asian side of the city and a peek at the Black Sea.

             An interesting excursion is a stop at Beylerbeyi Palace, the summer palace of the Sultans of the 19th century, with its exquisite chandeliers and woodwork. It is on the Asian side of the Bosporus, north of the city.

 

       3. Cappadocia

             Cappadocia, Turkey, is certainly one of the most unusual examples of human habitation on the planet. Resourceful people, first the Hittites, in about 2000 B.C. and later, Christians, hiding from Arab raiders, have hollowed out apartments from the volcanic mud-ash rock. These rocks are known as Fairy Chimneys, because they are conical in shape and because the hard top of the cone prevents the erosion of the softer tuff underneath, which is what allows the rock to be excavated. They have chiseled furniture, such as benches and storage bins, as well. There is even evidence of cave-churches with sculpted altars and frescoed walls. The area is in the Goreme Valley, in central Turkey, a fertile farmland, with a twist. These days, most of the caves are uninhabited, although some are used for storage by the locals.

             Specific areas of interest in the region include Derinkuyu, an underground city complex, the pretty little town of Avanos, with its cobbled streets and views overlooking the Red River, Turkey’s longest, and the Ihiara Valley, with more cave-dwellings and cave-churches from the Byzantine era.

  

       2. Ephesus

             Ephesus, an ancient Roman city in the Anatolian region of Turkey, was an extremely large and important port city during the time of the Roman Empire. Its origins actually date to the time of Alexander the Great, about 400 B.C., and its influence continued unabated until about 600 A.D. Due to the receding of the Mediterranean Sea, Ephesus is now almost 7 miles from the coast, so access is normally via the coastal city of Kusadasi. Ephesus is remarkably well preserved, considering that it has been abandoned for so long. The city streets are made of marble. Tours usually begin at the highest point, the Government Center, which includes the Town Hall, Agora, etc, and then visitors walk downhill toward what used to be the port. Some of the notable and best preserved structures include the Celsius Library, one of the three major libraries of the ancient world, (along with Alexandria and Pergamum), the Fountain of Trajan, a two-story structure which reminds visitors of the Trevi Fountain in Rome, and the Amphitheater, one of the largest remaining from ancient times, and which is still in use today for summer concerts. Recent archaeological excavations have revealed human bones near the Amphitheater, so historians believe that gladiatorial combat was conducted here as well as theater.

            Ephesus also has some religious significance as well. The disciple, John, came here as did St Paul, who preached in the Amphitheater (remember his Letters to the Ephesians). Mary, the mother of Jesus, had a house just outside the city. The city is also famous as the location of one of the original “seven wonders of the world”. The Temple of Artemis was nearby.

 

       4. Pamukkale

            Pamukkale is a site in southwestern Turkey which is the result of tectonic forces acting on the land here. Vents allow heat from beneath the crust to reach the surface, heating the water, creating natural springs, and producing a mountain of terraces, over 100 meters (300 feet) high. As heated water flows from the springs, the minerals, especially limestone, precipitates out forming terraces (white in color) and pools. Layers and layers are laid down over time forming the “cotton fortress” which visitors can see today.

            Initially, the water is extremely hot, but as it trickles down the slope, over the terraces, it cools to around 33^o C (just under 100^o F), making it comfortable for humans to sit in and soak. The waters are known for their curative powers.

            Nearby is the spa complex of Hieropolis, founded in 190 B.C., with its Necropolis of over 1000 tombs and its Roman Theater.

            Depending on the season, wait until later in the day to soak in the waters of Pamukkale, because, when the air is cold, people tend not to be able to last very long in the pools.

            

 

      Greece is the cradle of Western Civilization and the father of Democracy. The world revolved around this relatively small country for a thousand years. Even today, Greece holds a special fascination for travelers because of its rich heritage. With its numerous islands, there is also great natural beauty in this country which tries hard to preserve its past and to continue its interesting culture in the face of modernization. Join me on a tribute to one of the top travel destinations in the world. Later, check out the photo album which will follow shortly.

     Greece's major tourist attractions are described in order below.

     1. Athens & the Acropolis

           The Acropolis, in Athens, Greece, dates back to the 5th century B.C. It positively stirs the imagination since it represents the origins of democracy and Western Civilization. This was the home of Demosthenes, Socrates, Plato and Aristotle. The plays of Aeschylus, Aristophanes and Euripides were performed here.

           The Propylea was the entryway to the Acropolis and one can still imagine its splendor. The Erechthyon, on the north side, is also impressive with its Karyatids (sculpted maidens) instead of columns (the real Karyatids are in the Acropolis Museum to preserve them; the ones outside are reproductions). Also visible from the Acropolis is the Odeon of Herodotus-Atticus, an amphitheater still used during the summer months for the performance of Greek plays.

          But the most impressive sight is certainly the Parthenon -- Phidias’ masterpiece is regal, graceful, and beautiful, although much-changed from its 5th century grandeur. It dominates the Acropolis and remains a clear cut symbol of Ancient Greece, despite its ubiquitous scaffolding and seemingly perpetual restoration.

          From here there are also great views of the Agora (the marketplace/gathering place), the Temple of Hephaistus, the Theater of Dionysus (the oldest theater in the world), the Areopagus (Hill of Curses) which is associated with St Paul’s first visit to Athens, the Plaka (an old area of the city beneath the Acropolis which contains many shops, hotels, and restaurants), and Likavitos Hill, with St George’s Church at its summit.

          The Acropolis Museum is a treasure trove of original sculpture rescued from the damaging air pollution of Athens and also displays reproductions of what some areas of the Acropolis looked like before they became ruins.

        There are a number of vestiges of the time when Greece was under Roman rule in the city. These include the Roman Agora, near the original and similar to a Roman Forum. Noteworthy here is the Tower of the Winds. Also of Roman origin are the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch, in a park not far from the Plaka.

        Elsewhere in Athens is Syntagma (Constitution) Square, which is anchored by the Parliament Building (and former Royal Palace). In front of the building is Greece’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier where visitors can watch a Changing of the Guard Ceremony (most elaborate on Sundays).

         Be sure to see the Acropolis at night -- the soft-lighting enhances its symmetry.

         A popular excursion from the city involves a 70 kilometer (40 mile) drive southeast to the tip of the peninsula at Sounion to see the beautiful Temple of Poseidon, overlooking the Aegean Sea.

 

     2. Aegean Islands

           The Greek Islands dot the Aegean and the Adriatic Sea in the eastern part of the Mediterranean. They are known the world over for their special, whitewashed beauty and their storied history. There are actually several groups of islands: the Ionian Islands, which lie west of the Greek mainland; the Cyclades, which were named for the fact that they form somewhat of a ring around the central island of Delos; and the Dodecanese Islands, which are the most easterly of the Aegean islands, many of them quite close to the mainland of Turkey.

           Santorini is usually billed as the most beautiful, most unforgettable Greek isle, and it does not disappoint. Most people arrive at the island via cruise ship -- certainly the most dramatic approach. The current island is all that remains of a large volcano, From the moment the ship enters the caldera, all are on deck to witness the breath-taking event. Beautiful, pure white villages spill over steep cliffs of dark volcanic rock and look out over the caldera of an ancient volcano far (over 1000 feet) below which has been filled in with Aegean Sea -- it’s quite a postcard.

           The event that created the Santorini of today occurred in 1450 BC, when the volcanic island erupted. The eruption is credited with destroying much of the island itself, but also the palace of Knossos, on the neighboring island of Crete, by causing the ignition of casks of olive oil which created huge fires. The resulting tidal wave drowned the Minoans and marked the end of that civilization. Many scientists feel that this volcanic eruption which also destroyed the Minoan community on Santorini, was the source of the legend of Atlantis, the lost continent.

          Ships can only moor in the harbor and then tenders are used to bring visitors ashore. Next is the trip to the rim of the crater. There are three (3) choices: 1. On the backs of donkeys, 2. By foot, walking up the numerous switchbacks, trying to avoid the piles of donkey poop, 3. By funicular (6 tandem chairlifts).

          In the village of Thira/Fira, the main town on the island, the labyrinthine alleys are lined with hundreds of shops and restaurants. However, the view is the thing!! Looking down or up is positively breath-taking, certainly one of the most picturesque spots on earth.

          Ia (another smaller village on the western rim of the crater) is also extremely photogenic with its blue-domed churches and narrow alleys.

          Mykonos is another beautiful island. Imagine hundreds of white-washed buildings sloping down to a U-shaped tranquil harbor; myriad, narrow, winding alleyways lined with shops and chapels, spreading out below a ridge of white-washed windmills. It is lovely just strolling the streets, backtracking often because of dead-ends, getting lost but not worrying because downhill always means toward the harbor. It is relaxing to sit at a small table, outside a bar in “Little Venice”, an area of town with buildings directly over the water, watching “Petras”, the resident pelican, strut about and taking pictures of the town. This island is incredibly picturesque.

          The island of Rhodes is located very close to the Turkish coast, but still belongs to Greece. It has a long tradition and history. The town of Rhodes is a beautiful walled, Medieval city. The streets are cobblestones, for which the town fathers used smooth beach stones -- very unusual and attractive.

          Rhodes harbor was once the location of the statue known as the Colossus of Rhodes, one of the original Seven Wonders of the World! He straddled a section of the harbor until crumpled by an earthquake. The spot on which he stood is today marked by two columns, each of which is topped with a statue of a deer, the symbol of Rhodes. Legend says that the island was once populated by many snakes until deer were brought to the island and the snakes disappeared.

          City gates are turreted and built into the walls. The Street of the Knights (Ippoloton) leads up to the Palace of the Grand Masters. The street itself is considered one of the best preserved Medieval relics in the world. The buildings, known as “Inns”, along the street, were where the Knights of St John were housed and are all cultural landmarks in their own right.

          The Palace itself is an impressive building which is also built into the city walls. It contains beautiful, tranquil gardens, great places for a stroll and some contemplation.

          A great view of the city of Rhodes can be obtained by climbing the Byzantine Clock Tower (83 steps). Those who pay for the opportunity are rewarded with a free beer after returning to ground level.

          Lindos, another city on the island of Rhodes, is a another well-preserved Medieval town. It is a very steep walk up to its famous Acropolis, with its Medieval Castle, Porticos, and Stoas (courtyards). It makes an interesting side trip from Rhodes Town.

          Delos, Greece, is one of the North Cyclades Islands and is considered sacred, since, in Greek mythology, it was the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Today, the entire island is an archeological site and is, thus, uninhabited. Access is available by skiff (caique) from Mykonos and other Cycladic Islands.

          On the island, there are ruins of four Temples of Apollo in the Sanctuary of Apollo which is reached by walking up majestic Sacred Way, lined with Lion Sculptures. Other sites on the island include the Sanctuary of the Bulls, the Treasuries, and the Sanctuary of Artemis. There are also ruins of houses from the time when the island had inhabitants, as well as a Stadium and a Gymnasium.

          Patmos, another island near the coast of Turkey, is also a favorite stop for cruise lines. This island is famous as a Christian pilgrimage site, associated with St John the Theologian, who wrote one of the Gospels, as well as the Book of Revelations, in the New Testament.

          St John lived on Patmos from 95 to 97 AD (when he was an old man) and was exiled during that time. He wrote “the Apocalypse” as a result of visions he received inside a grotto or cave which can be visited. According to legend, he listened to God’s revelation while lying in the cave and the cave wall was split during the vision.

          From the cave, visitors are led to the highest hill of the island where a Monastery was built, in the 11^th century, dedicated to the memory of St John. The Monastery is still in operation and contains a beautiful church, with frescoes from the period. The museum on the grounds has numerous artifacts on view which have been left by pilgrims with the Monastery, notably a painting by El Greco and some relics given by Catherine the Great of Russia. The Monastery area also provides a great view of the island and its Aegean coastline.

          Corfu is one of Greece’s Ionian Islands, located just west of the mainland, in the Adriatic Sea, just off the coast of Albania. It was the residence of Homer, ancient Greece’s most famous writer/historian. The island itself is lovely and Corfu Town is a pleasant-to-walk, Medieval metropolis whose architecture combines many cultural influences, since the island was a another of the crossroads between East and West, and because of its proximity to Italy, especially Venice. Attractions which should not be missed include the Palace of St Michael and St George, which, today, houses several museums, the Old and the New Fortress, obviously erected for defense, the Esplanade, lined with beautiful homes, and the Church of St Spyridan, with its tall red-domed bell tower.

         Knossos, the ancient palace of King Minos and the center of Minoan civilization, is located on the island of Crete, the largest and most distant of the Greek isles. The Minoans existed from 2000 to 1450 BC, and Knossos is a tribute to their wealth and power. The palace was also reputed to house the labyrinthine chambers which were home to the Minotaur, a legendary half-man, half-beast who ate humans.

         Knossos was first excavated by Sir Arthur Evans, an Englishman, in 1900. Evans restored some of the palace and has been criticized by many archeologists because he tampered with the ruins. Others feel that the restoration makes the place come alive and adds a certain richness to the experience. Whatever the visitor feels about this issue, it is still amazing to walk around in an area that was occupied 4000 years ago.

         The Minoans were extremely resourceful. They had indoor plumbing and also had a system of clay pipes used to transport water to the palace from a mountain 10 kilometers (6 miles) away. The columns holding up the walls were made of the trunks of trees and are wider at the top and narrower at the bottom because the trees were used upside-down. Builders thought the “green” wood would lose its moisture faster in this position, and they were obviously right, since many have survived to the present day.

         There are huge clay cisterns in the chambers which held water, olive oil, etc. and the chambers of the king and queen are decorated with beautiful frescoes, the originals of which are housed in the Archeological Museum in Heraklion, which should also be visited.

         Unfortunately, the destruction of the Palace of Knossos by an earthquake and fire in 1450 BC also marks the end of the Minoan civilization. The event which led to this destruction was the eruption of the volcanic island of Santorini (see above). Archeologists are convinced that accompanying earthquakes caused the ignition of casks of olive oil which burned much of the palace (some wood from the palace shows charring), and a subsequent tidal wave from the Santorini eruption killed all the Minoans.

         There are a number of other Greek islands which merit mention. These include Naxos, once dubbed the most beautiful of all the islands by both Herodotus and Lord Byron, with its marble streets and Venetian homes, Lesbos, one of the largest and most affordable of the islands, Ios, which has become a major gathering place for the young people of the world, and Hydra, very close to the mainland and popular as a weekend getaway from Athens.

 

     3. Delphi

          Delphi was considered by the Ancient Greeks to be the center of the universe. The ruins of the Temple of Apollo and the famous Delphic Oracle are located on the slopes of 3,000 meter (9,000 foot) high Mt Parnassus, north of Athens. The Oracle was in operation from 800 BC to 400 AD and was consulted by rich and poor from all over the known world. The visitor first reaches the marketplace (agora) which offered, for sale, goods which could be used as offerings to the Oracle (the price of admission). The route from the marketplace to the Oracle, called the “sacred way”, is studded with “treasuries”, buildings erected by all the major city-states of Greece to hold their municipal stores of offerings. The largest of the treasuries is the Athenian Treasury. This area also included a portico, represented now only by a beautiful stone wall, mortar-less, but beautifully fitted.

          Above the treasury area is the Temple of Apollo which was once a large multi-columned temple (only 4 or 5 columns remain) that consisted of two rooms. The first room was the reception room where the petitioners were met by the priests of the Oracle who received their gifts and their query. The second room was exclusively used by the Oracle itself, represented by an ignorant virgin from the village who stayed in this room, exposed to vapors rising from below. She was entranced by the vapors and translated the message received from the Oracle to the priests in an indecipherable mumbo-jumbo. The priests then translated this message into the Oracle’s answer to the petitioner, which always contained an “ambiguity”. For instance, King Croesus consulted the Oracle about an impending battle and was told that a great civilization would be destroyed in the battle. He interpreted this message to foretell his victory, but, instead, his civilization was destroyed, making the Oracle right.

          Above the temple is the amphitheater (from here on, the paths are very steep) and then, far above that, the stadium where the Pythian games were held. They were very much like the Olympics and pitted athletes from all over Greece (believe it or not, cities even suspended their wars to participate).

          At the base of the area is a small museum which contains, among other things a beautiful bronze charioteer sculpture from the 5th century BC.

 

      4. Meteora Monasteries

          The Meteora Monasteries are found in an otherworldly landscape of tall, cylindrical rocks rising precipitously from the countryside below. At the tops of some of these rock towers are monastic communities which date back to the 1200’s. Today there are six monasteries open to the public. The most convenient embarkation point is the city of Kalambaka, about a two-hour drive southwest from Thessaloniki, and a 3-4 hour drive from Athens.

           The monasteries recommended for the tourist are the following: Ayia Barbara (sometimes known as Roussanou), which has particularly superb picture-taking opportunities, Megalo Meteora, the highest monastery at 450 meters (1360 feet), Ayios Nikolaos Anapafsas, with its beautiful frescoes, Varlaam, which, unfortunately, requires a climb of almost 200 steps, and Ayios Stephanos, the oldest of the monasteries. Other monasteries in the area include Ayia Triada, which also has spectacular views, and Ayia Moni, which is deserted.

 

      5. Nauplion

           Nafplion, Greece, is the quintessential Greek village and walking this lovely town is an excellent way to spend a day. It is located about 150 km (100 miles) southwest of Athens, in the northern part of the Peloponnese. It has the classic castle on a hill, the Palamidi, actually a Venetian fortress, narrow streets, numerous churches and beautiful squares. There are actually more fortresses at the Acronafplia, as well as parks and museums.  

           An interesting excursion from the town is to Epidaurus, Greece, another of Greece’s important ancient locations, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, specifically because of the Theater of Epidauros, which is the best-preserved one of its kind in the world. It dates to the 4th century B.C. and was, no doubt, the setting for the production of many of the famous Greek plays, such as Oresteia, Medea, The Frogs, etc. The theater has excellent acoustics and is still used for outdoor theater productions during the summer.

          Another worthwhile day trip from the Nauplion is to Mycenae, an ancient citadel which recalls a kingdom that was extremely powerful in the years 1500-1100 B.C. The site was first excavated in the 19th century by the famous archeologist, Heinrich Schliemann. Here was the location of the kingdom of Agamemnon.

          Particularly important areas of the ruins include the Lion’s Gate and the Treasury of Atreus. A visit to this site compels the visitor to recall the Trojan Wars, with its legendary characters such as Helen of Troy, Paris and Hector, as well as the story of Orestes and Electra, the children of Agamemnon. Perhaps the most important find at Mycenae is the famous Death Mask of Agamemnon, which can, today, be viewed in Athens’ National Archeological Museum (It has been determined, recently, that the age of the mask precedes the rule of Agamemnon).

 

      6. Olympia

          Olympia, Greece was the site of the original Olympic Games, probably first held in 776 B.C. The ruins that a visitor sees today, located in the western Peloponnese, include many buildings of what was once a thriving area. The life of Greeks at the time centered around conflicts between the various city-states for prominence. However, every four years, this warlike behavior stopped, for a five day period of sacred truce during which the games were held.

          Because the site is relatively compact, the area can be seen easily in several hours. Particularly important are the Heraion, the Temple of Hera, which is fairly well preserved, the Treasuries, which are where visiting city-states stored their valuables, the Stadium, which could seat 40,000-50,000 spectators, and the Temple of Zeus, King of the Gods, which must have been incredibly impressive in its day. The statue of Zeus, which was at the center of the temple, was huge (several times life size) and was the work of Phidias, who was responsible for much of the Acropolis in Athens. Zeus’ statue was one of the original Seven Wonders of the World. Unfortunately, it was moved to Constantinople in 475 A.D. and was destroyed by a fire. Some of the tools and molds used by Phidias are still on display in his workshop on the site.

 

      7. Thessaloniki

          Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city, is a melting pot of cultures, due to its location at the crossroads between East and West. In particular, Byzantine culture is well-represented here. Despite its size, the attractions of the city are accessible by foot, since most of them are found near the waterfront. Actually, the public promenade along the waterfront is ideal for this purpose.

           Notice the White Tower, previously a fort, then a jail, now a museum. Upon entering Aristotelous Square, a look inland gives an appreciation of the city’s size.

           One of the most photogenic neighborhoods of the city is Ano Poli, with its traditional Balkan architecture and the Old Fortress (Eptapyrgion).

           The most important church in the city is the Agia Sophia, which was modeled after its namesake, Hagia Sophia, in Istanbul.

           Thessaloniki is perhaps the best place to sample Greek cuisine. There are certainly numerous restaurants to choose from. Because of its location, seafood dishes are particularly appealing.

       

      Italy is on of the most visited countries in the world and one of the most popular with tourists for several reasons. Rome is, of course, one of the world's most important cities, because of its incredible history, architecture, and culture. Venice is perhaps the world's most unique city. Florence is the birthplace of the Renaissance. Vatican City is the home of the Roman Catholic pope and the center of this pervasive religion. And the accolades go on and on... So, relax and take a tour of this magnificent country through the eyes of a respectful traveler.

      Italy's most important sights are listed below. After reading the travelogue, check the upcoming photo album.

 

    1. Rome

          Rome has everything. It is romantic -- outdoor cafes on elegant piazzas; narrow streets perfect for strolling; a beautiful, lyrical language which evokes amore. It is historic -- remnants of perhaps the greatest and most powerful civilization of all time are everywhere; walking the streets provides a lesson in art and architecture. It is maddening -- traffic is horrendous, and watch out for those scooters! It is charming -- where else can you turn the corner onto a famous square, find a beautiful fountain, or practically bump into a 3,000 year old Egyptian obelisk?

          Rome is packed with major attractions: the Colosseum is an image known throughout the world; walk the streets that Caesar and Augustus walked as you stroll through the Roman Forum; Vatican City (see below), with all its religious significance and priceless Art, is within the city limits.

          The Colosseum seems to represent all the glory that was Rome. It was built in 79 AD and held deadly gladiatorial fights as well as bouts involving wild animals for the crowds of up to 55,000. What’s left is much of the oval exterior and many of the bleachers. The floor of the arena is only partly restored, which allows the visitor to see into the basement where the combatants and animals were housed and where equipment necessary to stage the programs was kept prior to the event. Visitors are treated to a miniature model of the Colosseum as was in its prime. The white travertine marble which covered the structure has long since been pillaged and carted away, but the mystique still remains. It even had a retractable awning to shade spectators from the sun. It is a particularly moving experience to walk around inside where so many gave their lives for sport.

         The Roman Forum was the political and social center of Ancient Rome and the seat of power at that time in the history of civilization. Here one can walk the streets where Julius Caesar, Cato, Augustus, and other great Romans may have strolled and conversed. It’s a bit eerie, and it certainly takes some imagination to have an idea of what this area looked like in 50 BC, because it is now in ruins. However, excavations and restorations provide some semblance of the past, and labels and models of the area help.

         Pick up an audio guide in the Forum which will direct the visitor to major sights and also provide some background. There are other Fora which are still being excavated, most notably Trajan’s Forum, which boasts what was probably the first shopping mall in the history of the world.

         Piazza Navona is one of Rome’s largest and most beautiful squares. Built on the site of a 1st century stadium, it is oval in shape and is lined with sidewalk cafes and palaces. However, it is the three gorgeous, Baroque fountains which make it a Mecca of both tourists and locals.

         Directly in front of the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone is Bernini’s famous Fountain of the Four Rivers. The rivers symbolized include the Nile, the Ganges, the Plata, and the Danube.

         At one end of the square is the Fountain of the Moor (which was also designed by Bernini), another beautiful Baroque fountain.

         The piazza is one of the major gathering places in the inner city and is often crowded with people, especially at night.

         The Pantheon of Rome is the Eternal City’s best preserved ancient building. It dates to approximately 100 AD and is a testament to its Roman builders. Pantheon means “temple of all gods” but it became a Christian church in the 7th century. Although services still take place, it is more a tomb than a church, now. The interior is a circular hall with an incredibly high (as high as the radius of the dome, which gives it an elegant proportionality) scalloped dome with an “oculus” (circular opening) at its top that allows the only light into the building. The marble floors, vestibules and altars around the edges of the hall are harmonious and muted in color, but beautiful as well.

          The Trevi Fountain is certainly one of the most elaborate and beautiful fountains in the world. It was, of course, made famous by the song, “Three Coins in the Fountain”. It has become a major gathering place, especially at night when the fountain is attractively lit, for people of all ages and, of course, tourists who perpetually throw coins into the fountain and wish to return to this “eternal city“. It is surprisingly large, half a city block, with numerous sculptures of sea creatures spewing water.

          Rome’s Spanish Steps, located in the Piazza di Spagna, is one of the most popular gathering places in all of Rome. Crowds hang out here at all hours of the day and night. It is one of the places to see and be seen. The steps lead upward from the square and the “Fontana della Barcaccia”, designed by Bernini’s father. They are extremely crowded with people just sitting or taking pictures, and are often adorned with beautiful flowers. At the top of the stairs is the lovely Trinita del Monti Church and one of Rome’s many obelisks.

         In the Piazza di Spagna, visitors should check out perhaps the most beautiful Mac Donald’s restaurant in the world -- it is decorated in typical, classic Roman style, and is at least worth a peek.

         Other sights of the city which deserve mention are the Victor Emmanuel Monument, which commemorates Italy’s first monarch and beginning of Italy’s unification. Italians call this the “wedding cake” for obvious reasons, and it was considered an unworthy addition to the city when constructed in the late 19^th century, but it is more accepted today and certainly impressive to the tourist, anchoring the busy Piazza Venezia. Nearby are steps leading to the Campidoglio, the beautiful square, designed by Michelangelo, which now allows access to the Capitoline Museum.

         Another important Roman museum is the Galleria Borghese, in the Villa Borghese, a large park north of the city center. This huge complex is the former estate of Cardinal Scipione Borghese and showcases his art collection.

         The Campo de Fiori (literally, “field of flowers“) can be an interesting change of pace for the visitor to Rome. Here, every morning, there is stall after stall of fresh fruit and produce, as well as crafts and trinkets, and, of course, flowers. It is a voyage back in time to an earlier and slower-paced Rome.

         A visit to the small, Santa Maria sopra Minerva Church, near the back of the Pantheon, is rewarded with an up close examination of Michelangelo’s Risen Christ along with some frescoes by Lippi, Botticelli’s teacher. In front of the church is a statue of an elephant, done by Bernini, on top of which is an Egyptian obelisk.

         For a quieter side of Rome, stroll through the Trastevere section of the city, across the Tiber River from the main tourist area.

         One of Michelangelo’s celebrated sculptures, Moses, can be seen in the church of San Pietro in Vincoli, near the Colosseum, but go in the morning or late in the afternoon since the church is closed from 12:30 P.M. to 3:00 P.M.

         One of several possible excursions from Rome is to the famous Abbey at Montecassino, south of the city. It was the site of one of the bloodiest battles of World War II. The Abbey was considered a high priority target since its location at the top of a mountain was a German observation post and headquarters. Although almost completely destroyed in the bombing and subsequent fighting, it has been lovingly restored and also contains a memorial cemetery to commemorate those who lost their lives in its liberation.

 

      2. Venice

           Venice is certainly one of the most unique places on earth. The entire city is composed of numerous islands within a huge lagoon. It is pedestrian-only, with transportation provided by boat along the many canals which separate the over 100 islands. Since Venice, in earlier times, was a major link in the trade route between East and West, it accumulated much wealth and cultural diversity which today is still on display.

            Weaving its way through the center of the Old City is the Grand Canal, a wide thoroughfare which is perpetually busy with boat traffic. The major tourist transportation along this waterway is the Vaporetto or water taxi. There are numerous stops along the canal from which areas of the city can be accessed. At one end of the Grand Canal is the train station and primary automobile parking lots. At the other end is the major tourist area, which contains the Piazza San Marco and other sights. Beyond here is the lagoon and access to fringe areas of the city, such as the islands of Murano, Burano, and the Lido (beach).

            From the Grand Canal, there are side canals which lead into the neighborhoods of the city. There are also several (3) bridges which cross the Grand Canal and also numerous bridges which connect the smaller islands of the city. Venice is great for walking because there are no cars to dodge or corners to wait at. Do expect to get lost, however, since there are so many tiny, narrow alleyways.

           One bridge across the Grand Canal which is a must for any visitor is the Rialto Bridge, a beautiful white, stone bridge which is lined with vendors, selling their treasures.

           Piazza San Marco, in Venice, is certainly one of the great city squares in Europe, even in the world. It is huge, attracts large numbers of pigeons, and is the major gathering place in Venice because it is surrounded by some of the most famous sights in the city, including the Basilica San Marco, the Doge’s Palace, and the Campanile. Because of Venice’s flooding problem, most noticeable after heavy rains, the piazza is sometimes under several feet of water, but the resourceful Italians drag out raised platforms to make walkways across the lowest part of the square, and restaurants take in their ubiquitous outdoor tables until the water recedes. Things usually get back to normal in a surprisingly short period of time.

           St Mark’s Basilica is a blend of Eastern and Western architecture which coincides with Venice’s role, for many years, as the connection between those two worlds. The mosaics along the main facade are spectacular. Much of the church is reminiscent of Constantinople, which is where the Four Horses above the main entrance were brought from. The “booty” from voyages far and wide adorn the church. Much of the wealth is displayed in the Treasury (separate admission). The altarpiece (Pala d’Oro), which stands behind the main altar, is made of gold and inlaid with numerous precious gems (some were stolen by Napoleon). A visit to the Galleria and Museum reveals the original bronze horses, replicas of which now grace the church’s facade.

           The Campanile or bell tower is also worth a visit, since the view of Venice and its lagoon from the observation level is spectacular.

           Despite the cost, a gondola ride is a must when visiting Venice. Many of the gondoliers will serenade their passengers, and all will narrate the trip through some of Venice’s small canals. The effect of the gondola traveling through these tight places with an expert at the helm is both soothing and enchanting.

           Also be sure to stop at Harry’s Bar, located near the San Marco Vaporetto stop, for a delicious, but overpriced, Bellini, a drink made from a sweet white Prosecco wine and peach juice.

           The Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) was the home of the reigning duke or doge of Venice. The architecture, as is normal in Venice, is a mix of East and West. Entry through the Porta della Carta brings the visitor into the internal courtyard.

           Upon arrival at the Hall of the Grand Council (Sala del Maggior Consiglio), note the huge Tintoretto oil painting Paradise (the largest oil painting in the world) behind the Doge’s throne. As you walk over the Bridge of Sighs, so-named since prisoners sighed and said goodbye to the world as they crossed from here into the prison, imagine being sentenced to a dank, dark prison with no hope of ever seeing Venice’s canals again. Exit is via the Giant’s Staircase, named for the large statues which straddle its doorway into the palace.

           For an interesting change of pace, take the vaporetto to the island of Burano, noted for lace-making. This lovely little village is characterized by the brightly painted houses which line its canals and the main square. There are lots of shops selling a variety of merchandise, but the pace is much slower and less hectic than Venice itself.

 

      3. Vatican City

           St Peter’s Basilica, the central symbol of the Roman Catholic religion, is located within Vatican City, the world’s smallest state, which lies entirely within the city of Rome. The Basilica, with its impressive dome, designed by Michelangelo, is the largest church in the world, and probably also contains the most wealth.

           As one enters the church, to the right is Michelangelo’s Pieta, his magnificent sculpture of Mary holding her dead son, Jesus. It is now behind bulletproof glass because of a previous attempt to vandalize it. The church can hold 95,000 worshipers. The main altar sits directly over St Peter’s tomb and has a canopy designed by Bernini. The dome is also the largest in the world.

           Outside the church, the Piazza San Pietro is a huge area, enclosed by two semi-circles of colonnades topped with sculptures.

           The Vatican Museum contains an immense collection of paintings, sculptures, and other art works, beginning with Egyptian and Mesopotamian art through Greek and Roman (see the Pio Clementino collection) and extending up to the modern era. Notable stops within the museum include the Raphael Rooms, Michelangelo’s Sistene Chapel and the Pinacoteca.

           The Sistene Chapel, located next to St Peter’s Basilica, is one of the most significant works of art in the world. The ceiling and part of the walls were painted by the great Michelangelo. On the ceiling are scenes from Genesis, from the Creation to the Fall of Man, as well as many characters from the Old Testament. Be aware that the ceiling is so high, binoculars or opera glasses should be used to see detail. Besides that difficulty, attendants are busy rushing visitors through the room to make way for more people. The wall paintings are by various masters of the 15th and 16th centuries, and also include The Last Judgment by Michelangelo on the altar wall.

           To avoid some of the crowds, make a reservation either through the Vatican’s website or several brokers who will do the leg work. Be aware that the Vatican will only confirm reservations a few days before the visit, so there is a certain risk involved.

           Plan to see the Vatican Museum and Sistene Chapel first, then exit the Chapel on the right, to a stairway which leads directly to St Peter’s Basilica and avoids the line to get into the church.

 

     4. Pompeii

           Pompeii, Italy, is one of the world’s most complete and extensively excavated archaeological sites. Here visitors can experience an authentic slice of the Roman Empire, because, on August 23, 79 A.D., the world ended for Pompeii’s 15,000 or so inhabitants. Nearby Mount Vesuvius erupted and buried the city under tons of volcanic dust and debris. People were caught unawares, involved in their daily lives, and this is what is so special about Pompeii. It is a window to a lost world, a glimpse of a typical day in the life of a Roman citizen. As one walks through the streets of the city, it is not difficult to imagine people seated in the beer halls, cooking in their kitchens, etc.

           Some of the major attractions in the city include the Forum, the business and commercial center, with its nearby government buildings, including the Basilica, and its religious center, the Templo di Giove (Temple of Jupiter). Some of the houses contain well-preserved murals and frescoes which indicate, in some cases, the affluence of the area. The Anfiteatri (Amphitheaters) indicate a strong commitment to the Arts, while the Baths and Brothels (Lupenare) indicate an underlying hedonism. There are even examples of graffiti which have been preserved beneath the ash.

           The major street of the city Via dell’Abundanza provides access to all the various areas.

           Rent an audio guide for extensive background information about life in Pompeii as well as an explanation of the various excavated sights.

           For a truly moving, almost ghoulish, experience, walk to the Orto dei Fugiaschi (Garden of the Fugitives), where there are a number of casts displayed of people who were overcome by the eruption. Their expressions and body positions will haunt the visitor. These people, like the city, are frozen in time and provide a ghostly window showing the modern world the consequences of a lack of preparedness.

 

      5. Florence

           Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance and once one of the most powerful city-states in Italy, may have more Art per acre than any other city in the world. Ruled by the powerful Medici family, patrons of the arts, for hundreds of years, the city became the home base for icons of the art world such as, Michelangelo, Da Vinci, Botticelli, etc. Much of their art remains on display in this wonderful city.

           The Duomo of Florence, Santa Maria del Fiore, has one of the most beautiful and most recognized exteriors in the world. Its Brunelleschi Dome was the largest, built without scaffolding, in the world when it was completed in 1463. It has become a symbol of the city with its red roof and distinctive shape. The outside of the church itself is covered in pink, green and white Tuscan marble. Many statues adorn the facade. Unfortunately, the Piazza in front of the Duomo is crowded and narrow, preventing visitors from getting a more distant perspective. Immediately across from the Duomo entrance is the Baptistry, with its beautiful, Ghiberti bronze doors (on the North and East sides of the building). The panels depict scriptural subjects, such as, the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Eden, Moses receiving the Ten Commandments, etc. Inside are colorful mosaics.

           The Piazza della Signoria is a spectacular example of the incorporation of great art into a public space to make it more than special. There are three notable statues in the square: 1. The Rape of the Sabine Women, by Giambologna, 2. Perseus, by Cellini, and 3. a copy of the David, by Michelangelo. Bordering the piazza is the Palazzo Vecchio, the town hall of Florence, with its imposing bell tower, a landmark of the city’s famous skyline, and the Neptune Fountain. What a fantastic environment in which to have lunch or a beer al fresco!

           Beside the palazzo is the famous Uffizi Gallery. The Degli Uffizi contains the greatest collection of Italian paintings in the world. The lines can be incredibly long and slow-moving, so make reservations ahead of time. Inside the Uffizi, marvel at the beautiful frescoed ceilings of the hallways, and enjoy the great art of Michelangelo, Botticelli, Giotti, Raphael, Titian, and others.

           Must sees include the Botticelli room with his Birth of Venus, and Michelangelo’s Holy Family.

           To the west of the Duomo is the church of Santa Maria Novella, with its distinctive, striped exterior. Also check out the interior of the Gothic structure which dates to around 1300 AD.

           Continue on to the river for some shopping on the Ponte Vecchio, a covered bridge over the Arno which is lined with shops. It is the oldest (1345) surviving bridge in the city and another symbol of Florence.

           Another of the must-sees of the city is housed in the Galleria dell’Accademia. Here visitors will experience the true impact of Michelangelo’s original David, one of the most important sculptures in the world. The David is extremely tall and imposing, on a large pedestal, and one marvels at the detail, such as the toenails, and the veins of the wrist. This statue stood in the Piazza della Signoria until 1873 when it was moved indoors to the museum for safe-keeping.

           The third David sculpture is displayed at the Piazzale Michelangelo, across the River Arno, south of the city. Besides the presence of the sculpture, the spot provides a postcard view of Florence’s skyline and is a favorite stop for tour buses on their way into or out of the city.

           Another famous house of worship is the church of Santa Croce which, besides another gorgeous marble façade, some beautiful artwork, such as frescoes by Giotto and a chapel dome by Brunelleschi, contains the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, and other notables.

 

      6. Amalfi Coast

            The Amalfi Coast Drive, located southwest of the city of Naples, is the most spectacular drive in the world. The road (SS 163) winds its way along cliffs which hover precipitously above the ocean. Nestled at various points along the drive are small, charming towns which cling to the cliffs of the Latari Mountains and tumble down to the Tyrrhenian Sea. The entire length is only about 48 kilometers (30 miles) but beautiful views are found throughout. The road is extremely narrow and is especially hazardous when large tour buses approach from the opposite direction. However, it is all worth the effort as long as there is no urgency. Plan to stop at several of the Villages, such as Positano, Amalfi, or Maiori to enjoy the ambience and to experience the slow pace and charm.

           Among the villages, Positano is one of the most popular. Its main street is lined with shops and restaurants and must be appreciated by walking. Parking in all these villages is a potential problem; however, there are several parking lots available as well as some on-street parking. There is much to do at any time of the day in Positano, which adds to its popularity. Admire the Santa Maria Assunta Church with its gold and green ceramic dome, on the Piazza Flavio Gioia. Stroll along the flower-festooned Via Mulini and linger at its little squares. Find your way to the Spraggia Grande, the main beach, then to the stone pier at one end, and climb the staircase to the Via Positanesi d‘ America, a walkway which provides excellent views.

           Amalfi, at the opposite end of the drive, is the largest community on this section of coast, so also affords visitors a wealth of activities and makes a good base of operations for those staying on the coast. Its Duomo, with its Paradise Cloister, is one of the sights worth mentioning.

           Above Amalfi is the charming little village of Ravello, which has perhaps the best views along the entire coast. The main square is adorable, with its cute little Duomo, shops, and restaurants. Take a walk from the square to either the Villa Rufolo or the Villa Cimbrone for unforgettable views of the coastline.

           Probably the best place to stay in the area is the city of Sorrento, several miles north of Positano and about 30 km (20 miles) south of Naples (see # 115 below). Sorrento has many more lodging and restaurant choices than other locations in the area, and offers ferry service to places like Capri or Naples.

           Isle of Capri is a beautiful spot and probably the most popular excursion from Naples or Sorrento or the Amalfi Coast. It is only a 20-25 minute ferry ride from Sorrento. The ferry deposits visitors at the Marina Grande from which tourist can either catch a bus or funicular to Capri Town, the largest and most popular town on the island, or pick up a smaller boat to the famous Blue Grotto, a cave system on the southeast coast of the island which is notable for its bluish glow. To see the grotto, visitors must actually take one boat from the marina, then change to a smaller boat at the entrance to the cave and wait in line for the opportunity to enter. The experience is actually quite kitschy and is may not be worth the expense, although many who have been there are still mesmerized by the experience.

           Capri Town is a white-washed village which sits high above the marina, on the southern coast of the island. Its labyrinthine alleys are a delight to explore and there is shopping galore for those so inclined. Wander down to the Certosa di San Giacomo or to the nearby estate of the Krupp family for incredible views of the coastline at Punta Tragara and of the I Faraglioni, three huge offshore rocks which make a spectacular photograph.

           Other places on the island which are worthy of a visit are Anacapri, a smaller village which is even higher above the water, Villa Jovis, constructed by the Roman Emperor Tiberius, and Villa San Michele, which provides access to the Sphinx Parapet.

 

      7. Pisa

           The Leaning Tower of Pisa and its Piazza dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles) is another spectacular religious sight. Three buildings, the Baptistry, the Duomo, and the Campanile (Leaning Tower) occupy a broad grassy plain. Each building would be a centerpiece in its own right, but to have them all together in one location is wonderful. Despite the commercialism across the street, this spot is awe-inspiring.

           The Baptistry is best known for its pulpit and its acoustics. Check out the panels on the door of the Duomo, facing the tower, depicting the life of Christ and also its pulpit, inside. The Leaning Tower has been aslant since its construction began in 1174. Finally, engineers have halted the settling and it is once more possible to climb the tower. Reservations are essential in the high season.

 

      8. Cinqueterra

            Cinqueterra refers to five villages on the Italian Riviera (the Levante coast) in the province of Liguria. The villages all have in common the fact that they are precipitously situated on cliffs that seem to topple into the sea. They are also not very accessible -- there are few roads leading in and out and only paths connect the villages. From north to south the names of the villages are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The largest of the towns is Monterosso and, along with Riomaggiore, the most accessible, are the most popular bases of operation for visitors.

            Plan on plenty of time to visit each village because each one has its own particular charm and individuality. Monterosso al Mare’s Centro Historico (Historic Center) contains a Medieval tower, the Aurora, and a beautiful, black-striped church, the Chiesa di San Francisco. Vernazza is perhaps the most charming of the villages, with its pink-slate roofs, narrow streets linked by steep steps, and ruins of a Medieval fort and castle. Corniglia is the most remote of the five villages, and has no direct access to the sea. The church of San Pietro, with its pink, Carrara marble, is worth a visit. Manarola has a lively harbor and pretty pastel-colored houses and is linked to Riomaggiore by the famous Via dell’Amore (Lover’s Lane), a 15 minute walk.

            Walk the well-marked trails between the villages for glorious views of the towns and the coastline. The entire distance between Monterosso and Riomaggiore is about 11 km (7 miles) and can easily be accomplished in one day, even with the obligatory stops for pictures, picnics, etc.

 

      9. Tuscany Hill Towns

            The Tuscany Region of Italy is one of the country’s most popular tourist regions for a number of reasons. First of all, the tourist capital of Tuscany, Florence (see # 15 above) is perhaps Italy’s most important center for the Arts. Secondly, Pisa (see # 31 above), with its Leaning Tower and Campo dei Miracoli, is one of the most recognized travel images in the world. Thirdly, Tuscany has numerous, picturesque, Hill Towns, many of which are world-famous for their wines and their olive oil.

            San Gimignano is one of the most popular of the Hill Towns and is particularly noted for its many towers. As a matter of fact, it is known as the “Manhattan of Italy” because its skyline is distinctly noticeable from afar. The many towers are relics from the Middle Ages, when power and wealth were displayed and characterized by the size of a family’s tower. From a peak of 70 towers, only fourteen are left.

            The town’s narrow, cobbled streets and quaint squares are fun to walk, although the hills and stairways can be somewhat disconcerting. For fantastic views of the surrounding Tuscan landscape, with its vineyards and olive orchards, climb the Torre Grosse (almost 300 stairs).

            Lucca is another of Tuscany’s gems. It began as a Roman colony in 180 B.C. and elements of the Roman presence are still evident. However, the charm of the town is in its walls, which can be walked and provide spectacular views, and its Medieval streets and piazzas. The Cathedral, San Martino, which dates to the 11th century was done in the Romanesque style and is extremely imposing. Also significant is the Church of San Michele in Foro, whose square is over the site of the original Roman Forum (hence the name) and which is still the major gathering place in town. There are many other pleasures which await the visitor in this very walkable town.

            Montepulciano is another Hill Town, south of Siena, which, in this case, is famous for its local wine, “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano”. The town is a delight, especially the Piazza Grande, the main square, which is lined with beautiful Medieval mansions and the Duomo.

            Other notable Tuscan Hill Towns include Arezzo, with magnificent frescoes in its Basilica di San Francisco, Cortona, with its well-preserved walls and charming cobbled streets, Montalcino, which also has a world-renowned wine named for it, and Pienza, which is more noted for its pecorino cheese.

 

         10. Siena

             Siena was a powerful state in its heyday, the 13th and 14th centuries. Although it no longer rivals Florence as it once did, it is still a remarkably well-preserved, Medieval city. All activity centers around the Piazza del Campo, which is a huge, semi-circular square. Twice a year, the square becomes a horse-racing park for the Palio, a winner-take-all competition between the local “contrada” (roughly, parishes). At other times of the year, the Piazza is simply the major gathering place for residents and tourists alike. Dominating the square is the Palazzo Pubblico, the Gothic Town Hall, which dates back to 1342.

             Not far from the Piazza del Campo is the Duomo of Siena, a magnificent church with a striped marble exterior decorated with numerous statues and a black and white marbled interior which houses several major works of art by artists like Michelangelo, Bernini, and Donatello.

             The maze of hilly, Medieval streets gives Siena a charm which many old cities have lost. It is, technically, a Tuscan Hill Town, but because of its size and wealth of attractions is listed separately.

 

        11. Portofino

             Portofino, nestled between Genoa and the Cinqueterra, is probably the most exclusive seaside resort in all of Italy. It obviously caters to the rich and famous, its harbor crammed with expensive yachts and its streets filled with shoppers throughout the summer. For the average tourist, consider staying in a town nearby, such as Rapallo or Santa Margherita Ligure, which offer more reasonable accommodations, and then visit Portofino as a day trip. The well-maintained homes and clean streets with many shops and restaurants make for a pleasant stroll. Also take in the Castello di San Giorgio (St George’s Castle) which has beautiful gardens and tremendous views.

 

        12. Umbria Hill Towns

             Umbria is another region which contains some of Italy’s famous Hill Towns. Probably the most significant and most visited is Assisi. This was the venue of St Francis of Assisi, forever associated with and seen surrounded by animals, and who was also the founder of the Dominican Order of monks, now found throughout the world. The town of Assisi is charming and a joy to walk, despite the hills, but its crowning feature is the Basilica di San Francesco, one of the world’s most beautiful and important Catholic churches. It is really two churches in one, the Lower Church, built in the Romanesque style in the early 1200’s and the Gothic Upper Church. The frescoes in both are beautiful and memorable.

             Other Umbrian Hill Towns include Spoleto, famous for its summer music festival, its Ponte della Torri, a bridge which resembles a Roman aqueduct, La Rocca, the fortress-like castle, and its Duomo, Orvieto, with its glorious Duomo, and Perugia, perhaps the best-preserved hill town of its size in all of Italy.

 

       13. San Marino

             San Marino is the oldest and smallest Republic in the world. It is located to the northeast of Rome, near the Adriatic coast, and is entirely surrounded by Italy. The town of San Marino is a Medieval gem of a city, heavily fortified by its Tre Castelli (Three castles) and made more impregnable because of its setting, at the very top of Mount Titiano. The narrow, cobblestone streets and incredibly well-preserved and well-maintained buildings make it an utter pleasure to experience. It is almost “Disney-esque” in its perfection. The only drawbacks are the steep streets and stairs which seem to head only upward. There are numerous shops and restaurants in this principality totally geared for tourism. Walk the walls from castle to castle for stupendous views of the surrounding countryside. Spend the night, if possible, to totally enjoy the ambience, since the majority of visitors are day-trippers who leave when the sun begins to go down.

 

        14. Milan

             Milan, Italy is a very large city in northern Italy, noted today as a fashion center. However, it is of great interest to the tourist because of its Duomo, one of the largest and most beautiful churches in the world, its opera house, La Scala, perhaps the premier venue of its kind in the world, and for Da Vinci’s Last Supper, his famous painting housed in the Santa Maria delle Grazie church.

             The Duomo is located in a huge piazza, opposite La Scala. It is impressive because of it size, but, more importantly, for its glorious exterior decoration. It has 135 spires and numerous statues and gargoyles. The interior is equally imposing with huge supporting columns and beautiful stained glass windows.

             Just 50 kilometers (30 miles) east of the city is the enchanting and lovely Medieval, hilltop village of Bergamo Alta. It is accessible via funicular from its modern sister, Bergamo Basso. Wander the avenues stopping especially at the splendid Piazza Vecchia which is ringed by elegant and interesting architecture, such as the Torre Civico and the Palazzo della Ragione, and the Piazza del Duomo. In the latter, notice the 15^th century marble façade of the Cappella Colleoni which is flanked by the Duomo (its fairly drab exterior belies the Baroque interior) and the octagonal Baptistry.

 

       15. Sicily

             Sicily is the large island off the tip of Italy’s boot, in the far southwest of the country. Because of its strategic location, protruding into a fairly narrow stretch of the Mediterranean Sea, it has been inhabited for thousands of years. Visitors will find remnants of Greek colonization as well as numerous Roman ruins, besides the typical Italian villages of today.

             Dominating the island is Mount Etna, one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Despite its unpredictability, many tourists and locals routinely climb the immense shield volcano (not a particularly difficult climb) to peer into its steaming crater. Much of the island’s history has been fashioned by the whims of this geological monster.

            In addition, Sicily was heavily bombed in World War II since it was a major embarkation point for Allied troops in the attempt to liberate Italy. Some areas have never been restored or rebuilt.

            Thirdly, Sicily is the birthplace of the “mafia” and the corruption and violence associated with this criminal enterprise has hindered the development of the island, for instance, funneling much needed post-war money into illegal operations and away from reconstruction. The center of the capital of Palermo, dingy and crumbling, is an excellent example.

            Notwithstanding these problems, Sicily is alive and well, and a major player in Italy’s and Europe’s travel scene. Despite its internal problems, Palermo is still a must-see city, with its beautiful churches, such as San Cataldo, La Martorana, which possesses some exceptional mosaics, and the famous Cattedrale, a hodgepodge of architectural styles, and its palaces, especially the Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale). Don’t miss the controversial fountain, the focal point of the Piazza Pretoria.

            Just a few miles southwest of the capital is one the most important tourist attractions on the island. The Duomo of the town of Monreale has some of the most extensive mosaics in the world and should not be missed.

            On the southern shore of the island lies the Greek colony of Agrigento, whose Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi) has some of the most extensive and best preserved remnants of Greek civilization in the world. Spend several hours wandering through the ruins and pay special attention to the Temple of Concord, considered by many the best preserved of all the Greek temples in the world.

            Siracusa (the ancient Greek settlement of Syracuse) sits on the southeastern coast of the island and also contains numerous Greek and Roman ruins. The Duomo beautifully incorporates the columns of an ancient Greek temple.

            Finally, the Medieval town of Taormina clings to a cliff east of Mount Etna and is perhaps the most touristy of Sicily’s villages, but it definitely must be seen, if just for the views of the coast and the volcano. Be sure to check out the Greek amphitheater and the Parco Duca di Cesaro, the lovely public gardens.

            Just southwest of Taormina, along the coast is the town of Noto, an example of failed architecture. The town’s architects had the opportunity to construct a city from scratch, to replace the old city, destroyed by an earthquake. They resolved to make this city the showplace of the entire country. And they did. However, the buildings were made with a local limestone which, unfortunately, does not weather well, and the city has been crumbling ever since. It is still worth a visit, if just to see the good intentions.

 

      16. Verona

            Verona, Italy, has Roman ruins, a beautiful town center, and connections to Shakespeare. Together, they explain its popularity on the tourist scene. Sights include the Arena, Verona’s Roman amphitheater, completed in 30 A.D. and still in use as an entertainment venue, Castelvecchio, the Old Castle, which dates to 1354, San Zeno Maggiore, a magnificent church built in the 12th century in the Romanesque style, Piazza Erbe, which occupies the site of the ancient Roman forum, Piazza dei Signori, with its very famous statue of Dante, numerous Palazzi (palaces), constructed using “rosso di Verona”, a pink-tinged limestone characteristic of the area, and several other churches. For the Shakespeare aficionados, there is Juliet’s House, with its famous balcony, and Juliet’s Tomb.

 

       17. Naples

            Naples, Italy, considered an example of the authentic essence of Italy, is a sprawling city on the southwestern coast. Naples is world-famous as the origin of pizza, one of the world’s most popular foods so be sure to sample some here. The city also contains some major tourist sights. Many of the artifacts recovered from Pompeii and Herculaneum are displayed in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, and a visit here provides a good preparation for a visit to either archaeological site. Other worthwhile attractions include Pio Monte della Misericordia, with its famous altar painting, Seven Acts of Mercy, by Caravaggio, Certosa di San Martino, a Baroque monastery, the Castel dell’Ovo, the city’s 12^th century fortress, and the Palazzo Reale, the Royal Palace.

            A worthwhile day trip from Naples involves traveling north on the Autostrada 1 to the town of Caserta to check out the Royal Palace, Reggia Caserta. Here is Italy’s answer to Versailles, a huge, sprawling edifice with 1,200 rooms and extensive gardens. Be sure to view the incredibly opulent Royal Apartments.

 

      18. Lakes Region

            Italy’s Lakes Region, with its idyllic setting at the base of the mountains and Mediterranean climate, has long been a major tourist destination. The names, Lake Garda, Lake Como, and Lake Maggiore conjure up images of palatial villas overlooking scenic lakefront. Even the hordes of tourists who descend on these places in the summertime cannot spoil the glorious scenery.

            Lake Garda is the easternmost and largest of the lakes. Driving along the lakeshore allows access to a number of small, interesting villages, such as, Malcesine, Riva del Garda, Garda, Sirmione, Salo, and Gardone, to name a few.

            Lake Maggiore and nearby Lake Orta are the westernmost lakes. Maggiore, famous as the setting for Hemingway’s A Farewell to Arms, is also noted for the picturesque Borromean Islands, with their elegant palazzos and beautiful gardens, that are most frequently accessed from the town of Stresa, the typical base for most tourists.

            Lake Como is in the middle and almost due north of Milan. The most important towns in this popular vacation area include Como, on the southwestern tip of the lake, and the lovely, flower-bedecked town of Bellagio, located where the lake forks.

 

 

       Southeast Asia includes the countries of Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), and the islands of Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia and the Philippines. The area is rich in cultural/religious tradition, and, of course, has numerous resorts associated with beaches and other oceanic activities.

 

      1.  Bangkok, Thailand

            Bangkok, Thailand, is a city of contrasts. The modern trappings of a twenty-first century city are juxtaposed with many of the old traditions of a Southeast Asian third-world nation. The effect, however, is enchanting, and Bangkok is adept at winning the hearts of most visitors, no matter where they are from or what they expect. Bangkok is also intoxicating as a result of its incredible variety of foods and aromas. Because of the traffic in the city as well as the sheer volume of people, the best ways to get around are by water taxi or by walking.

            Many of the city’s premier sights are in the vicinity of the Royal Palace, so can be included in a walking tour of this area. Within the Royal Palace itself, be sure to check out the Chakri Maka Prasad, which has Victorian elements, Dusit Hall, which has a mother-of-pearl throne, and Amarinda Vinichai Hall. Next to the palace is one of Bangkok’s most exceptional temples, Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, which holds Thailand’s holiest Buddha Statue. Note the murals depicting the life of Buddha. The palace and Wat are dazzling in their finery and a definite must-see for all visitors.

            Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, is also near the palace complex and is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok. This statue of Buddha is 151 feet (46 meters) long and 49 feet (15 meters) high. Also nearby is Wat Mahathat, with its sitting Buddha, now home to a Buddhist college. Other attractions in this area include several of Bangkok’s best museums.

            Just across the Chao Phraya River is the Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) whose Prang (tower) is about 80 meters (250 feet) tall and is inlaid with porcelain and ceramic tiles. Views from the terraces are fantastic.

            Additional sights in the city include the following: Wat Saket, with its marvelous Golden Mount, which also affords great views from the top; Phra Thi Nang Wimanmek, the largest teak palace in the world; and Talaad Pak Klong, Bangkok’s Flower Market.

            A visit to one of Bangkok’s Floating Markets is becoming a must-see these days after its feature in a recent James Bond film. Probably the best bet for this chaotic but delightful experience is the Damnoen Saduak, in Sangkhram Ratchaburi Province, about 80 kilometers (50 miles) from the city.

 

      2. Angkor, Cambodia

            Angkor, Cambodia, may well be the most important temple complex in the world, and also one of the most impressive man-made wonders in its history. The typical gateway for visitors to the area is the town of Siem Reap. Keep in mind that a visit to the area usually requires more than a single day, to appreciate the richness of the sight.

            The temple complex was built over six centuries. Begun in the 9^th century, it was not completed until the 15^th. The ruins were abandoned and not rediscovered until the mid-nineteenth century. Because accessibility has significantly improved recently, the numbers of tourists is steadily increasing.

            The most popular and probably most important temple in the complex is Angkor Wat, which is over 200 meters (600 feet) tall and is thought to represent the universe in miniature. The symbolism within the entire complex is extremely important in understanding the significance of the sights, so the tourist should prepare ahead of time to become familiar with at least the major themes or hire a guide who can adequately explain everything. The Wat has three levels which should all be explored. The ground level contains numerous, intricate stone relief carvings which represent scenes from various religious epics as well as the history of Angkor. Perhaps the most interesting scene depicts the legend of “The churning of the ocean of milk” in which 88 demons and 92 gods churn up the sea in order to make ambrosia which will confer immortality on those who drink it. On the second level, one will find the Gallery of 1000 Buddhas (of which little remains) and the Hall of Echoes. The third level’s claim to fame is its glorious view of the entire complex.

          Just north of Angkor Wat is the Angkor Thom complex. Entry is via a causeway lined with over 50 statues. In the center of this complex is the Bayon, another building whose walls contain carvings which depict legends from Buddhism and Hinduism, as well as everyday life in Angkor. It has a 45 meter (135 foot) tower surrounded by 51 smaller towers.

          Other highlights within the ancient city complex include the Terrace of the Elephants, with its rows of sculpted “garudas” (half-man, half-bird vehicles which transport Vishnu), the Terrace of the Leper King, whose centerpiece is a reproduction of a statue of Yama, the naked god of death, Ta Prohm, which has been left in ruins entwined by jungle and probably represents the way the entire complex must have looked when rediscovered, Neak Pean, a small temple surrounded by five ponds which seems to be floating on a holy snake (naga), and Preah Khan, which means “holy sword”. This large temple complex was thought to be the location of a famous battle in Khmer history.

            Sunrise and/or sunset are perhaps the best times to visit Angkor since the interplay of light on the temples is both magical and awe-inspiring.

            Recently opened Banteay Srei makes a great day trip from the Angkor area. It is about 30 kilometers (20 miles) from the Angkor complex. This complex of pinkish temples, known as the “Citadel of Women” also contains exquisite rock carvings.

 

        3. Bagan, Myanmar

             Bagan, Myanmar, is one of the greatest Buddhist shrines in the world. It is best seen at sunrise or sunset. More than 13,000 pagodas were once spread over this dry plain during the golden age of the 11 great kings (roughly 1044-1287). However, with the threat of invasion by Kublai Khan from China, this extraordinary area was abandoned. Now there are fewer than 3000 pagodas.

             The village of New Bagan has a museum, market, and places to eat and stay, or visitors can stay in the town of Nyaung U which is also near Old Bagan, site of many of the most important temples.

             In Old Bagan, be sure to visit Ananda Temple, built in the 12^th century, with its seventeen stupas and many Buddhas lining the walkways, and Thatbyinnyu Temple, the tallest building in the complex.

             Near Nyaung U, the must-sees include Shwezigon Pagoda, perhaps the most important temple in the area because it houses several relics of the Buddha, including his tooth and collar bone.

             Between Old and New Bagan, the visitor should seek out Sulamani Temple, with its interesting wall paintings, and Dhammayangyi Temple which is one of the largest temples and possesses superior brickwork. Also in the area is Shwesandaw Pagoda, which rewards those who climb to the top with a spectacular view, especially at sunset, when it is most popular.

             The Mingalazed Pagoda also offers panoramic views.

 

        4. Borobudur, Java, Indonesia

              Borobodur, on the island of Java, in Indonesia, is the world’s largest Buddhist temple. Construction began in the 8th century A.D., and was completed in the 9th century. It is one of most important tourist sights in Asia and has tremendous religious significance. The temple, like Buddha’s path to enlightenment, has ten levels, and is topped by a 40 meter (120 foot) tall stupa. Visitors should begin their exploration with a stop at the Audio Visual Center for an orientation film.

              Within the temple are carvings along the walls which picture the life of Buddha and many of his incarnations. A meditating, stone Buddha depicts “enlightenment” and is surrounded by numerous small statues. Use the right hand (the left is “unclean”) to touch the Buddha for good luck.

              Borobudur is about 40 kilometers (25 miles) northwest of Jogjakarta, which has a number of attractions to offer as well, and makes a reasonable base of operations for an excursion to the temple.

              Climb into the hills behind Borobudur for a great view of the complex.

              Also near Yogyakarta is the beautiful Prambanan Temple (Temple of the Slender Virgin) which contains several shrines. The Shiva temple rises to 130 feet (40 meters). This complex is about 17 kilometers (10 miles) to the southeast.

 

       5. Bali, Indonesia

             Bali, Indonesia, is iconic, in its juxtaposition of the modern with the traditional, and relatively unspoiled. For this reason, this small island is extremely popular with tourists from all over the world.

             A visit to the island should include at least the following sights and attractions. The city of Ubud, in the interior of the island, boasts a Monkey Forest, a miniature jungle within the city, which, besides the cute but somewhat aggressive monkeys, contains the Pura Dalem (Temple of the Dead).

             The Pura Besakih (The Mother Temple) is a complex found on the slopes of Mount Agung and is the holiest shrine on the island. Around the three main temples dedicated to the Hindu Trinity: Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu, are eighteen additional sanctuaries.

             The town of Bangli is home to the Pura Kehen Temple, which dates back to the 11^th century and is characterized by a huge Banyan Tree that graces the first courtyard.

             Further inland and to the northwest is Lake Bratan, with a beautiful temple, Ulu Danu, lying picturesquely on its shore.

             Kuta is perhaps the major beach community on the island. It is well-developed as a resort area. Not far from the town is another of Bali’s most visited temples, Tanah Lot, built on top of a large rock, surrounded by the sea. This dramatic “Temple of the Earth in the Sea” is best seen at sunset. Kuta is also the best place to see traditional Balinese dancing, which is offered at numerous locations in town.

              Perhaps the most enduring sight from any visit to Bali is an excursion to the rice terraces which dot the countryside. Whether it is the road between Rendang and Sidemen or from Candidasa to Amlapura, these scenic wonders should not be missed.

 

       6. Hue, Vietnam

             Hue, the former capital of Vietnam, is known for its beautiful imperial architecture, although a great deal of this was destroyed during the Tet offensive of the Vietnam War in 1968. The Perfume River forms the border between the city itself and the former ‘Forbidden Purple City’, and its mighty Citadel. This ‘city within a city’ with its tombs, pagodas, and lakes covered in lotus flowers was largely destroyed during the Vietnam War (the Royal Library is one of the few buildings still intact), but one can still see evidence of its former magnificence. The Noon Gate, grand entrance into the Imperial City, is opposite the Flagpole of Hue, the tallest pole in the country. The Emperor’s throne was once housed in the Palace of Supreme Harmony where he watched festivities from the Five-Phoenix Pavilion.

             Within easy reach of the city are the tombs of several of Vietnam’s emperors. Most interesting, perhaps, are the Tomb of Minh Mang and the Tomb of Tu Duc. The city also houses fine examples of Buddhist pagodas and other temples, such as the Thien Mu Pagoda which sits on a high hill overlooking the Perfume River.

 

        7. Yangon, Myanmar

             Yangon, Myanmar, is a city of Buddhist temples, open-air markets, food stalls and ill-repaired colonial architecture. It has a population of over two million. Although most of the city has been built in the last hundred years, and although it suffered considerable damage during World War II, there are still several examples of a more ancient culture. These include the golden Shwedagon Pagoda, one of the most spectacular Buddhist shrines in Asia and reputedly 2,500 years old (although rebuilt in 1769). Within, visitors can find intricate woodwork and paintings describing the life of Buddha which adorn the stairs. Around the main pagoda are 64 miniature pagodas, several large ones, as well as several sculpted creatures.

             The Sule Pagoda, also over 2,000 years old, houses one of Buddha‘s hairs and is found in the center of the city. The Botataung Pagoda, as old as the Shwedagon Pagoda, displays some of its relics through the use of mirrors.

             Kaha Aye Pagoda contains a Buddha image made with silver. It is next to the Maha Pasan Guha, or ‘Great Cave’, which was built to hold up to 10,000 people during the Synod (the 2500^th anniversary of Buddha‘s enlightenment).

 

        8. Komodo National Park, Komodo, Indonesia

              Komodo National Park, on Komodo Island, west of the Island of Flores, Indonesia, is noted for only one thing -- it is the home of the world’s largest lizard, the Komodo Dragon, which can be 3 meters (9 feet) long and weigh 50 kilograms (110 lbs.). These reptiles have been known to eat creatures as big as goats, and are formidable predators, with their sharp teeth, long claws and powerful tails. Once on the island, the National Park Office personnel lead tours to the creatures’ hangouts in the early morning and late afternoon, when they are most active.

              Getting to the island is somewhat difficult, since regular ferry service has been discontinued. The only options are tour packages from Labuhanbajo, on the western side of Flores, or to charter a boat from Labuhanbajo or Sape. Most options require an overnight stay, either on the boats or in government accommodations on the island.

 

        9. Banaue Rice Terraces, Philippine Islands

              The Banaue Rice Terraces, in the Philippine Islands, are considered one of the largest complexes of their type in the world, and have been recognized as a World Heritage Site. These spectacular terraces were cut out from the high Cordilleras over 2,000 years ago and remain as a testament to their builders. They are found at an altitude of 1,525 meters (about 5,000 feet), and, although difficult to get to, they reward the persistent tourist with an incredible sight, dubbed by some the “eighth wonder of the world”.

 

       10. Hanoi, Vietnam

              Hanoi, Vietnam, lies on the banks of the Red River. It is a beautiful city that retains an air of French colonial elegance with pretty yellow stucco buildings lining leafy streets. Hanoi is also a city of lakes, which add to its ambience.

              In the middle of the city lies the peaceful Hoan Kiem Lake (Lake of the Restored Sword) with the 18th-century Ngoc Son Temple (Jade Mountain Temple) sitting on an island in the center of the lake. The temple can be reached by the Huc Bridge (Rising Sun Bridge).

              To the north of Hoan Kiem Lake is the Old Quarter, a fascinating maze of narrow, ancient streets lined with markets, restaurants and cafes.

              West of the Old Quarter and south of the West Lake is the former Ville Française. This is the old, French administrative center and is characterized by enormous colonial-era châteaux and wide spacious boulevards. It also houses Hanoi’s most popular attraction, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. When visiting the Mausoleum, it is important to be respectful, both in dress and attitude. Ho Chi Minh was the father of the modern state and is still held in reverential regard. His house, built in 1958, is also on public view.

              There are a number of interesting pagodas in Hanoi. The One Pillar Pagoda, first constructed in 1049 AD (subsequently destroyed by the French just before they were ejected from the city and then rebuilt by the new government), was built to resemble a lotus flower – the symbol of purity rising out of a sea of sorrow. The Temple of Literature, built in 1076 AD, was the first university in Vietnam. It is a graceful complex of small intricate buildings and peaceful courtyards. To the northwest of the Citadel is West Lake, which is about 13km (9 miles) in circumference. The shores of the lake are popular with locals for picnics and there are a number of cafes. The lake also contains the wreckage of a crashed American B52 bomber.

              About 160km (100 miles) from Hanoi, near the port of Haiphong, is Ha Long Bay. This is an amazing complex of 3,000 chalk islands rising out of the South China Sea. The area is strange, eerie and very beautiful. Many of the islands contain bizarre cave formations and grottoes. Near Ha Long Bay is Catba Island, a designated National Park and a rich repository of plants and wildlife.

 

       11. Mandalay, Myanmar

              Mandalay, Myanmar, is rich in palaces, stupas, temples, and pagodas (although the city has suffered several bad fires which have destroyed some buildings), and is the main center of Buddhism and Burmese arts in the country. There are some excellent craft markets and there are thriving stone-carving workshops and gold-leaf industries. The city takes its name from Mandalay Hill which rises about 240m/787ft and can be climbed (approximately 700 steps) or reached via linecar service. About halfway up is the Shweyattaw Buddha, whose outstretched finger points toward the city.

             The Mahumuni Pagoda, or ‘Great Pagoda’, houses the famous and revered Mahumuni image of Buddha. The Buddha has been covered in gold leaf over the years by devout Buddhists. The process still goes on today and visitors are allowed to take part, for a small fee.

             The base, moat, and huge walls are virtually all that remain of the once stupendous Mandalay Palace, which was an immense walled city (mostly of timber construction) rather than a palace. It was burned down in 1942. A large-scale model gives an indication of what it must have been like.

             The Shwe Nandaw Kyaung Monastery was, at one time, part of the palace complex and was used as an apartment by King Mindon and his chief queen. Like the palace, the teak building was once beautifully gilded. There are some extraordinary carved panels inside and also a photograph of the Atumashi Kyaung Monastery, destroyed by fire in 1890. Its reconstruction is just a shadow of its former grandeur.

             Kuthodaw Pagoda is called ‘the world’s biggest book’ because of the 729 marble slabs that surround the central pagoda which are inscribed with the entire Buddhist scripture, written in a language which only the monks can understand.

 

       12. Singapore

             Singapore lies at the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula, and this “Lion City” is world-renowned for its adherence to strict laws. Do not even consider gum-chewing, or littering, or spitting here, because hefty fines are levied for these transgressions. Otherwise, however, Singapore is a very modern and prosperous city and has much to offer the tourist.

             Orchard Road is both the major shopping street and also one of the major arteries of the city, running east to west. Because Singapore has matured into a melting pot of cultures, there are several distinct ethnic or cultural districts which should be explored. The three most prominent are the Colonial District, the hub of the city and scene of its most elegant architecture, Little India, in the northern part of the city, and Chinatown, which lies across the Singapore River, to the south.

             Specific sights which should not be missed include the Raffles Hotel, a huge, white structure which is a National Monument, Chijmes, a complex of outdoor shops and cafes, the Kwan Im Temple (Goddess of Mercy Temple), with its golden exterior and fortune-telling monks, and Singapore’s Red Light District, the area around Desker St. and Petain Rd. On the fringes of the city are the Singapore Zoo, which ranks just behind the San Diego Zoo, in the USA, for number of species and completeness, and the Botanic Gardens, with their incredible collection of orchids.

 

       13. Kuala, Lumpur, Malaysia

             Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, “KL“, as it is locally known, is Malaysia’s hub, a huge, bustling, cosmopolitan city that is the business heart of the nation. Its ethnic diversity is part of the attraction, with Malaysian, Chinese, Indian and European cultures blending together on the tropical streets. KL has a wealth of attractions. Most obvious are the Petronas Twin Towers which, at a height of 436m (1453ft), are amongst the tallest buildings in the world. From the Towers’ viewing level the old mosques and ramshackle buildings contrast with the gleaming skyscrapers that have sprouted as Malaysia has become one of the regional economic powerhouses.

             Merdeka Square is at the very heart of old Malaysia, and is showcased with the stunning Sultan Abdul Samad Building, which blends Victorian and Moorish architectural styles.

             The Tasek Perdana Lake Gardens are one of the city’s best known natural landmarks, a popular spot for picnics and walking. Within the gardens are Parliament House and the National Monument. The National Monument, an impressive brass sculpture, is one of the world’s largest free-standing sculptures. Close by is the National Museum, which houses many historical exhibits.

             Near the railway station is the National Mosque, surrounded by lawns ornamented with fountains. This modern mosque, built in 1965, gleams every bit as brightly as any of Kuala Lumpur’s skyscrapers. The main dome is molded in the shape of an 18-point star to represent the 13 states of Malaysia and the five central Pillars of Islam. The huge main prayer hall can hold up to 10,000 worshippers, although this section of the mosque is closed to non-worshippers. Nearby is the old Chinese clan house of Chan See Yuen.

            KL has a smorgasbord of eating opportunities, with fine dining restaurants as well as local eateries that showcase the finest culinary delicacies from all over Malaysia. Then there are the street markets, with food stalls, where some of the best and cheapest food is to be found for the adventurous.

            The Friday Mosque, situated at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers, the point where the first Europeans scrambled ashore, is the most visually appealing and popular sight in the city. The best time to visit is at sunset or during the muezzin’s call to prayer, which echoes around the ornate domes and palm trees, giving the mosque the appearance of great calm amidst the skyscrapers and the hustle and bustle of the city.

 

       14. Chiang Mai, Thailand

             Chiang Mai, is Thailand’s second largest city and is located in the northern part of the country. The major tourist attractions are found in the Old City, which is surrounded by a moat, and eastward to the Ping River. Within the moat area are several Wats which should be explored: Wat Chiang Man, the city’s oldest, Wat Chedi Luang, with its Golden Buddha, and Wat Phra Singh, with its Bronze Buddha. Other attractions lie just outside the city.

              Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is Chiang Mai’s most important landmark, and overlooks the city from its forested mountain setting. It is 15 kilometers (8 miles) from town and dates from the 14^th century. There are stairs (almost 200 of them) and a funicular up to the temple. The Golden Pagoda contains holy Buddhist relics and is a major pilgrimage site.

              On the same road, visitors will find the Phu Phing Palace, about 7 kilometers (4 miles) further along. This is still the royal winter palace and its beautifully landscaped gardens and grounds are open to the general public on weekends and official holidays if the Thai royal family is not in residence.

              Doi Pui Tribal Village is located about four kilometers (2.4 miles) from the Phu Phing Palace and offers a glimpse of modern tribal life in Thailand.

             Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre, located on the road to Chom Thong, stages Lanna Thai cultural performances with a Kan Tok Dinner.

             The Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong is 58 kilometers (35 miles) from Chiang Mai and dates from the 15^th century. It has a collection of bronze Buddha images, and the secondary chapel contains a Buddha relic.

 

       15. Luang Prabang, Laos

             Luang Prabang, Laos, was the country’s capital until 1556, and has been somewhat isolated since then, allowing it to maintain much of its heritage without the influence of modernization which has transformed other Laotian cities. Located between the Mekong and Khan River, it is the cultural and religious center of the country, boasting 32 large temple complexes.

             Wat Xieng Thong (Temple of the Golden City) is the epitome of Laotian religious architecture and probably the most impressive temple, decorated with golden relief and a mosaic Tree of Life.

             The Royal Palace, built in 1904, contains a copy of the Pha Bang, a golden Buddha and also houses the Palace Museum (the former royal palace), recognizable by its golden-spire. The museum has an impressive collection of Laotian artifacts.

             Nearby, in the town center, visitors can ascend Mount Phousi (Marvelous Mountain) for a panoramic view of the city and its surrounding rivers. Also worth visiting is Wat Chom Phousi and the cave which houses a footprint of the Buddha

 

      

          

       In Australia, as well as neighbor, New Zealand (see later entry), the emphasis is on natural beauty and wildlife. Australia, especially, has some of the most unusual animals in the world, due to its isolation from the other land masses of the earth early in the period of continental drift as Pangaea (the Supercontinent) split apart.  Evolution has taken care of the rest. Join me for a virtual tour of this fascinating continent and stay tuned for the photo album which is soon to follow.

 

      1. Great Barrier Reef, Queensland

             The Great Barrier Reef, which lies off the northeast coast of Australia, is certainly one of the most incredible natural wonders on the planet. It extends almost 2,000 kilometers (1,200 miles), roughly mirroring the coastline of Queensland. To think that this huge, elaborate construction is the result of the activity of creatures less than an inch long is truly amazing. Coral animals are small relatives of jellyfish which secrete a shell to protect themselves. When the tiny creatures die, their shells remain and become the reef. New corals attach themselves to the old shells and the reef gets larger and larger.

             The reef is not only large, but, because of its many nooks and crannies, it attracts a tremendous variety of animals which come to feed and to make their homes. The reef becomes, over time, a living ecosystem which is largely self-supporting (assisted by incoming tides) and which sustains entire food chains.

             The astonishing variety of species which can be found along the reef system is eclipsed only by the incredible colors of the marine life. Some of the reefs are parallel to the shoreline (called fringing reefs). These can only be accessed by boat or seaplane. North of Port Douglas, at Cape Tribulation, however, the reefs are just offshore and can be accessed from the beaches.

             The outer reefs, especially, can also be dangerous places. Jellyfish, Stingrays, Lionfish, Octopus, and other creatures can make a vacation turn into a hospital stay or worse.

             Arguably the best base of operations for an exploration of the Great Barrier Reef is the city of Cairns, located in the northern part of tropical Queensland. From here, boats of all types depart for some of Australia’s offshore islands and also the outer reef. Also easily accessible from the city is the Wet Tropics Rainforest, another World Heritage Site and, obviously, markedly different from the reef.

            The Daintree Rainforest, just north of Cairns, offers another spectacular ecosystem to explore, one with almost as much variety as the reef. There are bus tours available, or the tableland area can be accessed via rental car.

            Cairns is located almost 3,000 kilometers (2,000 miles) from Sydney, but it has an airport with flights each day from major Australian cities. Because it has become the gateway to this area of Australia, there is an abundance of accommodations and other tourist services.

            Take the Orchard Tour at Cape Tribulation (about 70 miles north of Cairns) to sample a variety of different and unusual fruits which grow in rain forests around the world.

 

        2. Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, Northern Territory

            Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, Australia, is justly famous as the site of the world’s largest stone monolith, Ayers Rock, whose image conjures up visions of Australia’s outback and its native aborigines. The area is extremely remote, very near the exact center of the continent, and far from the coastline where the large cities are located. However, its popularity has dictated that it be accessible and it has become so. The typical visitor arrives in the area at the town of Alice Springs which has grown as a result of this attention. However, the town is almost 300 miles (450 kilometers) away, a five hour drive by car, so the Ayers Rock Resort (Yulara) has blossomed, only 22 kilometers (13 miles) away, and provides lodging as well as other visitor services.

            The rock itself is striking, dramatically rising from the arid landscape to a height of almost 350 meters (1,100 feet). And it is truly huge, with a circumference of approximately 9 kilometers (5 miles). One of the most popular activities is to walk around the monolith. The rock is sacred to the native peoples so visitors are asked not to climb or walk on the rock, since that is an insult to their culture.

            Also explore Kata Tjuta (otherwise known as the Olgas), numerous domes of rock which hide gorges and other interesting rock formations. They are also an area sacred to the Aboriginals.

            Ayers Rock must be seen at sunrise or sunset because the sandstone changes colors depending on sky conditions. This makes it almost necessary to stay overnight in the near vicinity.

 

       3. Sydney, New South Wales

            Sydney, Australia, the “Emerald City,” is certainly one of the most photographed cities in the world. Its harbor area, with the famous Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge, is breathtaking, especially at sunset. Probably the best way to get the perfect picture is to take a harbor cruise or any of the ferries that ply the harbor. Another great photo opportunity is available to the brave, hardy souls who scale the Harbour Bridge. The Sydney Harbour Bridgeclimb takes groups of people to the top of the 440 foot (110 meter) span for a glorious view of the harbor below. It is a strenuous but safe (participants are tethered) experience.

             The Sydney Opera House, which opened in 1973, is certainly the most recognized symbol of the city and is extremely unusual and distinctive with its shell-like appearance. The roofs of the “shells” are covered with over a million tiles. It is the home of the Sydney Opera, the Sydney Theater Company, and the Sydney Symphony Orchestra. Try to take in a performance while in the city.

             The Sydney Tower, the tallest building in the city, has an 820 foot (270 meter) high observation deck and also provides wonderful views. Admission includes an audiovisual presentation about Australia.

             The Royal Botanic Gardens offer solitude and beauty, just outside the downtown area. They contain fountains, ponds, and a number of unusual bird species besides the typical flowers and trees. From the gardens, a visitor can wander around Farm Cove to Mrs Macquaries Point. Here, the famous Mrs Macquaries Chair offers spectacular views of the Opera House and harbor.

             For another uniquely Sydney experience, drive or take a bus south of the city to Bondi Beach, world famous for beach volleyball and other seashore activities. People-watching is fantastic here. Another excellent beach can be found about 7 miles (16 kilometers) north of the city in the town of Manly. The adventuresome can even walk from the harbor to the town via the Manly Scenic Walkway.

 

        4. Blue Mountains, New South Wales

             The Blue Mountains, located in New South Wales, Australia, just a 90 minute drive by car from Sydney, is a huge area that encompasses seven of Australia’s National Parks and is home to a wide variety of Australian wildlife. The region was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in the year 2000. Fortunately, there are several towns which can suitably serve as a base of operations for visitors to the area.

             The town of Katoomba is the largest of these entry points. The area around the town is noted for its breathtaking scenery, so be sure to head south to Echo Point to view the Three Sisters, a beautiful rock formation. Australia’s version of an IMAX theater presents “The Edge” at various times during the day. To get thrilling up-close-and-personal access to the area, spend some time at the Scenic World Complex, which offers a Scenic Railway, a Senescender (cable car), and a Skyway.

             Another possible tourist base is found at Leura, a more upscale town which is very near the Everglades Gardens, a popular area for strolling, and Sublime Point, which, as its name suggests, provides heavenly views of the valley.

             The third town is Blackheath, useful for gaining access to a different part of this scenic wilderness. Check out Govetts Leap which has great views of waterfalls and cliffs above a beautiful valley, and Evans Lookout, which also has wonderful vistas. Nearby, for the adventuresome, there is access to the Grand Canyon, a considerable trek away.

             Other locations of note within the Blue Mountain region include Wentworth Falls, the Cathedral of Ferns, Mermaids Cave, and the Blue Gum Forest.

 

       5. Great Ocean Road, Victoria

             Great Ocean Road, in the province of Victoria, Australia, is one of the world’s great scenic drives. The drive extends from Torquay, just west of Melbourne to Portland, a distance of around 400 kilometers (240 miles). The road snakes along the coast, linking interesting and quaint villages and providing views of the dramatic coastline. (For trekkers, the Great Ocean Walk traverses a portion of the same coastline for a distance of about 90 kilometers or 50 miles, with many opportunities to stop, spend the night, camp, etc.)

             One of the most famous and scenic portions of the road is the section within Port Campbell National Park, called The Twelve Apostles, referring to a dozen rock sentinels which lie just offshore. The Viewing Platform has a great vantage point and penguins can sometimes be seen frolicking below.

             There are several great beaches which can be accessed via the Great Ocean Road. Swimming beaches include Anglesea, Apollo Bay, Bridgewater Bay, Eastern Beach, Ocean Grove, Point Lonsdale, and Wye River. Some of the surfing beaches along the route are world-famous. A few notable ones include 13^th Beach, Bells Beach, Johanna, and Logan’s Beach.

              Historic towns such as Port Fairy and Portland dot the route and offer an alternative type of attraction.

              Around Apollo Bay, visitors have opportunities to leave the coastal road and travel inland into the Otways, a region of rain forest with several scenic drives of its own. A couple of these side trips are Waterfalls and Rain Forest Drive and Skenes Creek Road.

              There are also a number of shipwrecks which have occurred offshore. Maps of the road will locate where these unfortunate incidents happened and tourist information centers can provide historical information about the wrecks.

              In addition, several waterfalls can be easily accessed from the road. Some are only a short walk inland, while others are much more strenuous and require considerably more time. A few possibilities include Phantom Falls, Triplet Falls, Erskine Falls, and Beauchamp Falls.

              Lighthouses are another popular feature of this drive. There are quite a few which can be seen en route. A few notables include Black Lighthouse and White Lighthouse at Queenscliff, Cape Otway Light, and Port Fairy Light.

              This scenic drive should not be considered a day trip, but should be savored over the course of several days, perhaps in combination with a visit to Melbourne (below).

 

        6. The Kimberley, Western Australia

              The Kimberley is a vast region in Western Australia which is characterized by stark natural beauty, in the form of gorges, mountain ranges, rivers, waterfalls and inviting pools.

              The town of Kununurra, near the border between Western Australia and the Northern Territory, is a potential base of operations, especially if access to the western part of the continent has been through the city of Darwin. Keep in mind that distances, especially in this part of Australia, are sizeable. For instance, the road from Darwin to Alice Springs, entryway to Ayers Rocks (see #2 above) and a center for Aboriginal Art, is 1,525 kilometers (about 900 miles), and the distance to Broome, the major gateway to The Kimberley, on the western edge of the region, is 2,795 kilometers (about 1,500 miles). Flights are also available which connect these areas for those who shun driving or have limited time.

               Also keep in mind that traversing this area, from Darwin to Broome provides access to a number of National Parks, such as Kakadu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its abundant wetlands and wildlife (July and August are the best months) as well as several excellent examples of Aboriginal Rock Art, Nitmiluk National Park, highlighted by the Katherine River Gorge, and Purnululu National Park (the Bungle Bungles), noted for its beehive-like mounds with orange and black striations.

               Another park which should be experienced is Watarrka National Park which provides access to picturesque King’s Canyon.

               The town of Broome (almost 5,000 kilometers or 3,000 miles from Sydney), on the northwest coast of Australia, is the major gateway into the Kimberley. Broome is noted for its beaches. In particular, Cable Beach, just out of the town center, is 13 miles (30 kilometers) long and often recognized as one of the finest in the world. Also in the vicinity is Riddell Beach, with its vermillion cliffs. The town also has a lively Chinatown and a waterfront area which showcases the Pearling industry.

 

         7. Gold Coast, Queensland

               The Gold Coast is a long strip of beaches and coastal communities, about 75 kilometers (40 miles) south of Brisbane, the capital of Queensland, Australia. This area is probably the most well-developed shoreline area in the country and is extremely popular as a vacation spot with Australians. It is also becoming more and more significant as a tourist destination for visitors to the country. The region can be conveniently divided into three geographical sections.

               The southern region is dotted with numerous resorts which offer a variety of activities, both aquatic and land-based.

               The central region is centered around the community of Burleigh Heads, and, besides surfing and swimming, offers mega-shopping and Vegas-style Casinos. This area is also very convenient to the inland area known as the Hinterland, which contains rain forests and other natural areas and is also home to several national parks, specifically Lamington National Park and Springbrook National Park.

               The northern region sports several extremely popular theme parks. These include Dreamworld, which boasts live shows and numerous thrill rides, Warner Brothers Movie World, a theme park based primarily on Looney Tunes characters, Wet ’n’ Wild a garden variety water park, and Sea World which focuses on marine life and is similar to other venues around the world with the same name.

               A great excursion from the area around Brisbane is to Fraser Island. Travel north from Brisbane to the resort town of Hervey Bay. From here there are ferries or barges which can bring the visitor to the island. Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand island, and, because of its uniqueness, it has been recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. This excursion is especially popular with Eco-tourists who marvel at the many freshwater lakes, beaches, rain forests, and wildlife.

 

        8. Tasmania

               Tasmania is an island located about 240 kilometers (130 miles) off the southeastern coast of Australia. Access to the island is available by boat (ferry service is regular, with one nightly crossing and one daily crossing) or plane. The capital and main source of tourist services is the town of Hobart, in the southeastern part of the island. Much of the island has been set aside as National Parks, and several of these are included and recognized as World Heritage Sites.

               Any visit to the island should include visits to many of the following attractions. Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park is part of the world heritage area and is a must-see for visitors because of its wilderness and the potential to see some of the island’s unique wildlife. Visitors should keep in mind that many of Tasmania’s creatures are nocturnal, so that the best time to see them is in the evening, just after sunset.

              Dismal Swamp, in the northwest corner of the island, is another fascinating area to explore. It is a giant sinkhole which has been repopulated, and visitors are allowed access via wooden walkways.

              Hastings Caves provide access to the beautiful and haunting underground world of a dolomite cave system. Park Service employees conduct daily tours which last approximately 45 minutes. The caves are well-lit, but involve considerable walking and over 200 stairs, although in small increments.

              The Tahune Airwalk is a bit closer to Hobart and can be accessed via a popular scenic drive called the Huon Trail. The air walk is a short (about one-half kilometer or one-quarter mile) walk along an elevated walkway, suspended above the native forest.

              The port town of Hobart is also interesting to explore. The waterfront area, known as Sullivan’s Cove is a delight, with its Georgian warehouses converted to shops and restaurants. Salamanca Square is great for people-watching or having a beverage. Also in Hobart is the Cadbury-Schweppes Chocolate Factory which offers a guided tour (1 ½ hours) with sampling along the way.

              On Saturdays in Sullivan’s Cove, the Salamanca Place Market provides an exceptional opportunity to browse an outdoor marketplace for bargains, food, or that special Tasmanian craft or souvenir.

              Several other options while on the island include a drive to Port Arthur where the original Penal Colony on the island was located, and/or a visit to Freycinet National Park, on the east coast, for a hike to gorgeous Wineglass Bay.

              In the western part of the island, the seaside village of Strahan is peaceful and lovely in its setting between the forests and the ocean.

 

        9. Kangaroo Island, South Australia

              Kangaroo Island is Australia’s third largest island, and is located about 115 kilometers (65 miles) southwest of the city of Adelaide, which is located in the province of South Australia. Much of the island has been preserved in the form of various national parks and wildlife sanctuaries. There are daily ferries from the mainland as well as air shuttle service. The boat trip takes approximately 7.5 hours.

              The island is, of course, famous for its wildlife, as well as its pristine and secluded beaches. Kingscote is the island’s largest town and the typical base for tourist activities.

 

        10. Melbourne, Victoria

              Melbourne, Australia, is a pleasant city (one of the world’s most livable) which is extremely European and a joy to visit. The city lies along the Yarra River, a short distance from the southern coast of Australia.

              One of the best ways to get oriented to what the city has to offer is to take the free City Circle Tram. It is available at several specially marked stops and travels by most of the city’s attractions in its 40 minute trip.

              The most popular walk in the city traverses the area known as the Golden Mile, which passes by numerous historically and architecturally significant buildings. Many buildings are classic nineteenth century structures. Self-guiding maps are available at Tourist Information Centers. The entire city center is walker-friendly, with narrow, cobblestone streets and alleyways.

              Another must-see attraction is the King’s Domain. This sight includes the Royal Botanic Gardens, which the visitor can either explore on his/her own or participate in free guided walks which are offered daily. The domain also includes numerous monuments and smaller gardens.

              Like most major cities, Melbourne is a collection of ethnic neighborhoods which should be experienced by any visitor. Chinatown and the Greek Precinct are two of the favorites.

              The Fitzroy Gardens also include Cook’s Cottage, the childhood home of Captain Cook, which was disassembled and transported to Melbourne in 1934 from its original location in England. Displays center around Captain Cook’s accomplishments and legacy.

              Melbourne is also fairly convenient to the Great Ocean Road.