New Orleans is certainly noted for its Mardi Gras celebration, one of  the best known in the world, but its French Quarter is a wonderful experience any time of the year.  After all, New Orleans is the birthplace of jazz, and great music can be found morning, noon or night.  The architecture is interesting, because of the wrought iron balconies, many draped with flowers during the spring and summertime, the pastel-colored buildings and the beautiful courtyards showcasing the lovely 19th century houses.  Preservation Hall offers a glimpse of vintage New Orleans’ jazz nightly.  This is the place where many famous jazz artists were discovered or honed their craft.

            Bourbon Street at night is blocked off from traffic and people party every evening till the wee hours (visitors can even buy alcoholic drinks from street vendors).

            Jackson Square, a beautiful park in front of the distinctive St Louis Cathedral is an ideal place for relaxing or taking pictures. The nearby, colonnaded French Market has several shops and restaurants, some with live music.

            A Mississippi River Cruise is obligatory when visiting New Orleans, LA, Minneapolis, MN, or some of the other major cities along the river. 

From New Orleans, an interesting paddle wheel cruise takes the visitor upriver by a number of plantation houses and to the site of the Battle of New Orleans which took place in 1815. Boats leave from the Riverwalk area, off Canal Street.  Trips are of varying lengths and leave at various times during the day.

            New Orleans is also noted for its cuisine, and visitors to the area should definitely sample alligator, crayfish, catfish (a few of the local favorites) as well as jambalaya and cajun preparations.

            Gary’s Gem:

                        1. The St Charles Avenue Streetcar takes visitors through New Orleans’ garden district, with its beautiful and regal homes, characteristic of the deep South.

             Madrid, Spain, is certainly one of Europe’s great cities. There are so many significant attractions that several days should be allotted.  Perhaps most important, because of its location and its popularity as a gathering place, is the Plaza Mayor, one of Europe’s greatest squares.  It is huge, surrounded by beautiful, majestic buildings which houses shops, restaurants, etc.  It is a wonderful place for strolling or for sitting and enjoying a “cervesa” (beer) or coffee.

            The Palacio Real (royal palace) is a spectacular chateau in the tradition of Versailles or Buckingham Palace, although much smaller.  It is still the residence of Spain’s King (Juan Carlos). The rooms display splendid opulence with their ceiling frescoes, sculptures, tapestries, and beautiful furniture.

            El Rastro, the acclaimed flea market of Madrid, is certainly a gathering place (especially on Sunday morning) and great for people-watching, but the items being sold are mostly junk.

            On the eastern side of the city, in what is often referred to as Bourbon Madrid, besides the significant architecture, there is a greater amount of open space and greenery, accentuated by beautiful fountains and squares.  Here also are Madrid’s major museums and celebrations of the Arts, including the world-famous Prado Museum as well as the smaller Reina Sofia, famous for its Guernica, perhaps Picasso’s best painting.

            The Prado is another one of the great museums of the world.  There is no better repository of Spanish art -- works, for instance, by Goya, El Greco, Velazquez, and Murillo, but the collection goes far beyond Spain.  Italian and Flemish artists are well represented, as well as many others.

            Nearby, note the exquisite Fuente de Cibeles, with its Goddess of Nature in a chariot pulled by lions.  The elegant building behind the fountain is, of all things, the main post office. Although it is in a very busy traffic area, try to frame a picture of the fountain. 

            Also in this vicinity is Retiro Park, a splendid place for strolling and escaping the hectic city scene.  There are miles of walkways, pools, fountains, and interesting buildings, particularly the Crystal Palace.

            One of the most popular excursions from Madrid is west to El Escorial (more precisely, Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial), which has been the summer palace for the Kings of Spain since 1564.  It was built by Philip II and completed by his son.  It is another great chateau in the spirit of Versailles.

            Yet it is more than a residence; it is also a monastery with a lovely chapel.  As expected, the rooms are extremely ornate, with beautiful artwork and tapestries.  Especially noteworthy are the five wooden doors, gifts from the Kingdom of Austria, which are incredibly detailed, with inlaid wood of different colors.  Also significant are the Pantheons, the crypts of the kings (all but 3 monarchs since 1564 have been interred here), and the Pantheon Infantes, the tombs of the royal children who did not become kings.

            Gary’s Gem:

                        1.  Madrid is a perfect place to attend the “obligatory” bullfight.  Madrid’s Plaza de Toros (bull ring) is one of the country’s finest and attracts some of the best matadors.  Even though the spectacle is revolting for many, and its continuation is being challenged by animal rights groups, the bullfight has been part of Spanish culture for hundreds of years and should be experienced by any traveler who believes in becoming familiar with the culture of an area.

                        2.  Another “obligatory” rite of passage through the culture of Madrid is the dining experience at Sobrino de Botin, a famous haunt of Ernest Hemingway and reputed to be the oldest restaurant in the world (from 1725).  The restaurant interior attractively resembles a cave, and the food is excellent, especially the specialty, roast suckling pig.  Ask your waiter to show you the wine cellar for an even more cave-like experience.

                        3.  In the Prado, don’t miss Hieronymus Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights, his most famous painting.

                        4. A popular day trip from the city involves a visit to Aranjuez, actually the Palacio Real de Aranjuez, only about thirty miles from Madrid, another summer palace of Spain’s royal family.  It is a particularly opulent estate on the River Tagus, which is made more delightful by its 740 acres of gardens which offer solitude and respite from the oppressive Spanish summers.  Inside, note, in particular, the Chinese Porcelain Room, the Hall of Mirrors, and the Smoking Room.

            Paris may be the most beautiful city in the world.  The area around the Seine River is not only historically and culturally significant, but the architecture is stunning.  There is no more romantic stroll than a walk along the Seine River at dusk. The Eiffel Tower is visible all along the river.

            The Eiffel Tower is one of the world’s most famous landmarks.  It dominates the skyline of Paris and is visible from almost anywhere in the city.  It is beautifully lit at night, a spectacular sight.  It was the centerpiece of the 1889 World’s Fair and remains today as an icon of the city.  Expect long lines to both climb and/or ride (on elevators) to the observation decks.  Near the base of the tower, along the river Seine, are the embarkation docks for the Bateaux-Mouche, boats which ride up and down the Seine with their narrated tours of the sights along the river.  The boat ride is especially nice in the evening (Paris has very late sunsets in the summer) when it is cooler and the light is softer.

            To the east, the visitor will find the Place de la Concorde, an elegant square and the historical location of the guillotine used to execute King Louis XVI and others in 1793. Today it contains the Luxor Obelisk, an Egyptian monument over 3300 years old.  This square is a bit difficult to appreciate because of the noise and traffic. 

            Nearby, one will also find the Louvre, perhaps the worlds greatest and, rightfully, most popular Art museum. It is positively huge, and impossible to manage in one visit, so do what most tourists do -- concentrate on a few galleries and/or pieces, then return in subsequent visits to see other parts of the museum.  The absolute must sees are the following:  Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, in the Italian collection (there are also other Da Vinci’s here, as well as a huge collection of other Renaissance paintings); and the famous sculptures of Venus de Milo (Aphrodite, the Greek Goddess of Love) and the Winged Victory of Samothrace, which are located in the Ancient Greek and Roman section. The Louvre is also famous these days as one of the settings for the popular novel and movie, The Da Vinci Code.

            Notre Dame Cathedral, one the most beloved houses of worship in the world, located on the Ile de Cite (city island), in the middle of the Seine, is another of the must-see attractions of Paris.  It has been immortalized in Victor Hugo’s Hunchback of Notre Dame. Its construction began in the 12th century and is certainly an imposing, Gothic edifice, perhaps the quintessential Gothic cathedral in the world.  Its facade has been much copied, while its gargoyles (strange-looking creature sculptures which adorn its exteriors) are the stuff of legend.  Note the row of statues (Kings of Judah) and the statue of Mary, mother of Jesus, on the facade. Inside, don’t miss the Rose windows. 

            Other areas of the city should also be included on everyone’s travel itinerary.  Walk west long the Champs Elysses (an extremely broad, tree-lined avenue, replete with upscale shops and restaurants) to the Arc d’Triomphe, which commands the upper end of the famous street. It is a monument, commissioned by Napoleon, to commemorate his victory at Austerlitz and is the largest memorial of its type in the world. The arch is fittingly located at the convergence of 12 huge avenues, which lead, like spokes of a wheel, away from it.  Visitors must walk through a tunnel under the very busy traffic circle to gain access to the arch.  Climbing the 284 stairs to the top rewards the visitor with a panoramic view of the city of Paris.  The view of the Eiffel Tower from here is especially beautiful.  

            Sacre Coeur, another of Paris’s beautiful churches, sits atop the Montmartre section of the city.  Its location is extremely prominent, and, although initially disliked by the Parisians, has become one of the city’s many symbols.  It is elegant in white, and is best reached by a funicular, since the climb is extremely steep.  It also offers a spectacular view of the entire city. Montmartre itself is still the domain of artists and provides a wonderful stroll.

            The most important excursion from Paris is to Versailles, the epitome of a kingly palace, the envy of monarchs everywhere, often copied, never duplicated.  It is located just (about 50 km or 30 miles) west of Paris and makes an excellent day trip.  There are numerous options for the visit.  Highlights include the Hall of Mirrors, the State Apartments, King’s Apartments, and the Gardens.  A guided tour is recommended to get the most from the visit, since guides offer many interesting tidbits of information.  Inside, no matter how the visit progresses, the cacophony of sound from various guides speaking myriad languages, each trying to speak louder that all the others, is disconcerting to say the least.  Try to arrive early in the day, before the hordes of buses and their tour groups.

            Another popular day trip is south to the town of Chartres to explore its famous Cathedral. It is considered a model of Gothic architecture and has been copied many times over the years. A cathedral has existed on this site since the 4^th century, although today‘s gothic structure dates to the 12^th century. It is an imposing sight for any visitor since it towers over the town and can be seen for miles. 

            The cathedral is famous for its stained glass windows and their very distinctive, glowing, “Chartres-blue” (only recently have scientists discovered that Sodium compounds may be responsible for its uniqueness.  Note also the portals over the doors. Much of the church is somewhat run down and should be restored.

            Gary’s Gem:

                        1.  Near Sacre Coeur, at the bottom of the hill, is the famous Moulin Rouge, a nightclub in the Pigalle (red-light) district.  It is certainly worth a look for those who can tolerate the atmosphere of smut and pornography. It still operates as a nightclub, in the evenings.

                        2.  Before leaving the Notre Dame area, walk across the Seine on the bridge to the rear of the church for a spectacular view of the flying buttresses, a distinctive characteristic of Gothic churches, actually an engineering requirement to support the arches, which allow the expansive height of these churches. 

                        3.  One of the most popular excursions from Paris is to Eurodisney, or Disneyland Paris, the European version of the famous theme park first constructed in Anaheim, California.  The European park is similar to its counterparts in the USA except for some of the details, such as language, etc. The park is composed of five major areas or “lands”, Adventureland, Frontierland, Fantasyland, Discoveryland, and Main Street.  Each of these “parks within a park” has themed rides, authentic-looking buildings and architecture, as well as shops and restaurants. Disney Characters patrol the park and interact with visitors. An additional area, Walt Disney Studios Park, opened in 2002, showcases the world of motion pictures. It is a great experience for adults and children alike.

                        4. Try not to be disappointed by the Mona Lisa -- many tourists are, since it such a small painting in such a large room, surrounded by many other more intimidating works.  The fact that the painting is behind glass is also disconcerting for some, since it makes picture-taking more difficult.  But a close look at the painting (the crowds do make it difficult to get a clear view) reveals its elegance and mystery.

                        5. Stroll through and/or relax in the Luxembourg Gardens, a treasure of tranquility in this very crowded city. 

                        6.  Splurge with a dinner at the Eiffel Tower, at its second floor restaurant (expensive but good food).  Your reservation (book early) avoids lines for the elevator. 

                        7.  Another possible excursion from the city is to Fontainebleau, a huge palace in the great forest south of Paris, which was loved by Napoleon as a place of solitude and contemplation.  Besides visiting the chateau, plan to spend some time hiking or wandering in the woods around the residence.

                        8. A stroll through the gardens at Versailles provides a welcome respite from the noise and the crowds.  It also provides a softer, less intimidating perspective of the palace than the front entrance. 

             London is another of the world’s great cities. It is staid and proper, just like many Brits, but the people are helpful and there are a plethora of sights and attractions.  In fact, London is worth an entire week if travel plans allow. 

            The most visited attraction in the city is the Tower of London, which has an extremely storied history.  The Tower of London, located on the north bank of the Thames, near London’s Financial District, has been a home to England’s monarchs, a weapons storage facility, a treasury (it still holds the Crown Jewels), and, most famously, a prison.  Many an enemy of the state met his or her end, frequently by beheading, within the confines of the Tower.  The visitor is escorted though the complex by a resident “beefeater”, dressed in a uniform which is reminiscent of Tudor England. 

            Must sees on the visit include the White Tower, the dominant structure within the complex, which dates back to the 11th century, the Jewel House, which houses the British Crown Jewels, Traitor’s Gate, the entryway for prisoners arriving from Westminster Hall, and the Bloody Tower, so-named since it was the residence of Edward IV’s two sons whose bones were later found nearby, after their uncle, Richard III, ascended the throne.  One of the cells, the cell of “little ease” was so small (4 ft x 4 ft) that prisoners could not fully stand up, nor lie straight out. Imagine how uncomfortable it was!

            There are a number of places in London which are icons of travel -- known and/or recognized all over the world.  These include Big Ben and Parliament, the seat of government in England.  “Ben” is actually the name for the bell, although the Bell Tower dominates the skyline here.  The architecture is neo-gothic and is both striking and exquisite in its detail.  The complex is huge, lavish, and ornate, and a tribute to the British who keep the area spotless.             

            Tower Bridge is one of the most distinctive and beautiful bridges in the world.  It has become one of the enduring symbols of London.  It is at the eastern end of the city and spans the Thames, very close to the Tower of London.  The “Tower Bridge Experience” provides lots of information about the history, operation, and construction of the bridge.  However, it is disappointing in that the top level is an enclosed area, instead of being outside for a great view.  Pictures can only be taken through a few tiny windows.

            Buckingham Palace is another “must-see” in London.  The palace is still the city residence of the Royal Family.  The public is allowed to view the state rooms, but not the private living quarters of the Queen, her family and guests. Perhaps most impressive is the “Changing of the Guard” which takes place at 11:30 AM every day from April to mid-July, then goes to an alternating day schedule for the remainder of the year.  During the summer months, crowds are huge so it is advisable to arrive early in order to stake out a territory.  It is quite the ceremony, but then the Brits are known for their pomp and circumstance. 

            Westminster Abbey is a beautiful church in its own right.  The exterior resembles the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, but, inside, it is more like a museum or a mausoleum, in that it contains the tombs of, or memorials to, most of the kings and queens of England, as well as many other notables.  It is solemn inside because it is the burial place of so many, and pictures cannot be taken as a consequence.  Some of the special memorials are particularly elaborate, such as the tombs of Elizabeth I and her rival, Mary, Queen of Scots.  Of special note is the Poet’s Corner which has busts or plaques to England’s famous literati.

            Besides these mega-attractions, there are many other places worthy of the traveler’s time and energy.  Harrods department store is one of the most interesting shopping facilities in the world.  Besides the architecture and the store decorations, almost anything buyable can be found here. Trafalgar Square is one of Europe’s great gathering places, with its fountain, its pigeons, and its sculptures.  London’s parks, such as Hyde Park and Green Park, are noteworthy since they offer a peaceful respite in a crowded, hectic location. 

            St. Paul’s Cathedral, the setting for the very public marriage of Prince Charles and Princess Diana, was designed by Christopher Wren, the famous architect who practically rebuilt London after its devastating fire of 1666.  The church claims to have the second largest dome in the world (after St Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City).  The interior, the setting for many lavish state ceremonies, is striking, especially the ceiling and dome. The outside of the cathedral is also very attractive, but it needs cleaning.

            British Airways’ London Eye, a large Ferris wheel on the south shore of the Thames River, offers spectacular views of the city.

            There are also, appropriately, some major museums in London. Most notable are the British Museum and the National Portrait Gallery (the Tate).

            The British Museum, on Trafalgar Square, is the oldest public museum in the world.  The most famous holdings of the museum are the Elgin Marbles, 5th century B.C. reliefs from the Parthenon, in Greece.  Other particular delights include a collection of Egyptian Mummies and the Lindsfarne Gospels, which date to the 7th century and are illustrated.

            Other sights in London include Piccadilly Circus, London’s equivalent to Times Square in New York City, a busy, garish confluence of streets, with numerous neon signs, which has become one of London’s great gathering places. Not too far away is Covent Garden, a group of London streets centering on the Central Market, a covered mall with numerous shops and stalls surrounded by a plaza, frequented by street performers and crowds of people.

             Across the Thames, tourists will find an exact replica of Shakespeare’s Globe Theater which offers productions year round, weather permitting, since the theater is outdoors. 

            One of the favorite excursions from London involves a cruise down the River Thames to Greenwich, England, home of the Royal Naval College, the National Maritime Museum, and the Old Royal Observatory, the original home of Greenwich Mean Time, the time standard for the entire earth and the location which demarcates zero degrees Longitude. Boats leave from the Westminster Pier at various times throughout the day.

            Another, slightly longer, day trip is an excursion to Brighton, on the south coast of England to visit the Royal Pavilion, an unbelievably elaborate palace.  The architecture is Eastern and the furnishings Chinese.  It was used as a residence by King George IV, but when Queen Victoria succeeded him, she moved the royal quarters back to London, so the palace ceased to be a resort for the monarchy.  It was, however, purchased and restored to its former elegance by the city of Brighton, and is worth a hour or two. Brighton is also known for its beach.

            A third excursion is eastward to Canterbury Cathedral which is not only an impressive church, but is also a repository of a considerable amount of history, particularly involving the events surrounding the murder of Thomas Becket in 1170 (his remains were housed here until 1538).  The church is also known for its medieval stained glass and the tomb of the Black Prince (son of Edward III).

            Still another excursion from London takes the visitor to Leeds Castle, certainly one of the most beautiful castles in all of Europe.  It is a classic, Medieval castle, complete with moat.  It is incredibly romantic and picturesque, with its varied-colored bricks and pleasant, spotless grounds.  The interior is meticulously decorated with extravagant arrangements of fresh flowers, as well as period furniture.

            An additional side trip from the city lies northwest at Windsor Castle, the residence of the English royals, which has a history dating back to the reign of William the Conqueror, who had it built in 1070 AD. It is the largest inhabited castle in the world with its 1000 rooms.  Note in particular, St George’s Chapel, where ten British monarchs are buried, and the State Apartments, with its many historical treasures. When the Queen is in residence, there is a Changing of the Guard ceremony here which is as good as the one in London.

            Gary’s Gem:

                        1. For an unusual experience, have lunch in the “Cafe in the Crypt”, in the bowels of St Martin-in-the-Field Church, right across from Trafalgar Square.

                        2.  Take the “Big Bus Company” tour, a red double-decker that stops at numerous places on the tourist map.  The ticket holder may get off anywhere, sightsee, then hop on another bus to continue the tour.  There is also a narrator on each bus who describes the attractions.

                        3. A lesser known, but just as regal, ceremony is the “Changing of the Horse Guards” which takes place at 11 AM each day at the Horse Guards building behind 10 Downing Street.

            Prague is, without question, one of the most beautiful cities in the world.  Spared the bombings that destroyed much of Europe’s great cities, it is well-preserved and recently awakened, liberated, from behind the Iron Curtain.  Because of its new-found popularity, it is very crowded throughout the year. 

            Prague is bisected by the Vltava River, so can be conveniently separated into several days of tourism, without much overlap.  The famous Charles Bridge provides the connection between the Castle District to the west and the Old Town to the east.  There are plenty of must-see sights in both areas to warrant at least a day in each, depending on the available time.

            The western part of the city, known as the Castle District (Hradcany) contains Prague most visited attraction, Prague Castle (Prazsky Hrad), which is, in reality, a complex of buildings surrounded by walls.  Important stops in the castle complex are St Vitus Cathedral, a 14th century Gothic structure which is notable for its stained glass windows and the tomb of Saint (King) Wenceslas, the patron saint of the Czech Republic, the Basilica of St George, which is even older (12th century), and Golden Lane (Zlata Ulika) which is a narrow alley lined with tiny homes (tradesmen’s quarters) which are built into the castle walls.  An obligatory stop along the lane is at the Kafka House (#22), where the author lived and wrote. After a visit to the castle, walk down the hill toward the river to sample the Mala Strana (Lesser Town), a jumble of narrow streets and interesting shops, restaurants and other buildings.  Possible stops include the Wallenstein Palace, and various churches, such as, St Nicholas and St Thomas. 

            Leading eastward from Mala Strana is the Charles Bridge (Karlovy Most) which is one of the major gathering places in Prague.  The bridge is always crowded with tourists, locals, street vendors and street musicians (watch your wallets and pocketbooks). It is noteworthy because of the numerous sculptures along its span.

            On the eastern side of the bridge is the Stare Mesto (Old Town) with its centerpiece, the Old Town Square (Starometske nam).  It is one of the most beautiful squares in all of Europe with its pastel-colored palaces, striking churches, numerous outdoor cafes, and busy pedestrians.  Particularly enchanting is the Old Town Hall with its Astronomical Clock, which entertains visitors with its workings every hour on the hour.  Note also the large statue of Jan Hus, a religious reformer, the Baroque St Nicholas Church, and, perhaps most striking of all, at least from the outside, the Gothic Tyn Church with its twin steeples which towers over most of the other buildings. 

            The remainder of the Old Town has many narrow streets, occasional, darling little squares, and many shops and restaurants. 

            Another area to explore is New Town (Nove Mesto), with the historically and socially important Wenceslas Square.  It was here that the Czech Republic threw off the mantle of Communism and began its entry into the world of modern Europe. This broad square is more a divided thoroughfare with myriad shops and restaurants and is great for people-watching. The National Museum dominates one end of the square.  Note the many Art Nouveau buildings.

            Still another section of the Old Town is the Jewish Quarter where the Old-New Synagogue and the Jewish cemetery are the major attractions.

            The most popular excursion from Prague is to Karlstejn Castle, only about 30 kilometers (18 miles) southwest of the city. The castle occupies a commanding location, on a ridge above town and is a good example of a classic Eastern European castle.

            Gary’s Gem: