Scotland and Wales are two of the countries which comprise Great Britain. Scotland is north of England while Wales lies to the northwest. These countries are somewhat different from England, both in language and landscape. The people are fiercely nationalistic and very proud of their heritage. Take my short tour below to learn about the best places to visit, then check out the photo album which will soon follow.

 

     1. Edinburgh, Scotland

            Edinburgh Castle sits prominently at one end of the Royal Mile, the main street of Medieval Edinburgh. It is incredibly imposing, high on a hill and surrounded by steep cliffs on all sides except the visitor entrance. Yet this model of castle architecture has been taken at least three times in its history, two by siege and one by stealth. Parts of the castle (the Chapel, for instance) date back to the 1100’s although most of it was destroyed by Robert the Bruce in the 1300’s, then rebuilt. The Scottish Crown Jewels, the oldest in Europe, are on display here. The Great Hall is especially impressive, as are the Royal Apartments.

            From the castle, walk downhill along the Royal Mile to Holyrood Palace, the house of the Queen when she is in town. Much of it dates back to the 1300’s and includes the bedchamber of Mary, Queen of Scots. The newer part of the palace (1500’s) is extremely dignified and “royal”. Attached to the palace are the ruins of an Abbey and a pretty garden.

            Along the way to Holyrood, the Royal Mile traverses the center of Edinburgh‘s Old Town. Now lined with many shops and restaurants, it remains a gathering place for locals and tourists alike. Note St Giles Cathedral, the High Kirk of Edinburgh, with its distinctive steeple and its dark, Gothic interior.

            Beyond Holyrood, climb to the top of Calton Hill for incredible views of Edinburgh, as well as the Firth of Forth, the famous waterway, to the north of Edinburgh, which cuts into the Scottish mainland.

            Princes Street is the main thoroughfare in New Town (and also the major shopping area of the city) which is also lively with pubs, shops, and parks. Note especially the elaborate Sir Walter Scott Memorial.

            For a real treat, while visiting Edinburgh, splurge and stay in a genuine castle, Dalhousie Castle, on the outskirts of the city. The rooms of the castle are themed and have furnishings and decorations which complement the theme. Breakfast in the mornings is served in the dungeon of the castle, an extremely interesting setting. Be sure to try the “haggis”, a local tradition.

 

     2. Loch Ness & the Scottish Highlands

            Loch Ness has a mystique which transcends its beautiful setting. Because of the legend of the Loch Ness Monster, crowds flock to its shores to perhaps catch a glimpse of the prehistoric creature. Because of that fact, heavy and slow moving (partly because of the narrow roads) traffic should be expected, especially during the summer. One of the nicest places to observe the Loch is from the ruins of Urquhart Castle. The castle grounds jut out into the lake and the effect is stunning. Be advised that the path to the castle is somewhat steep.

            The town of Inverness makes a good base of operations for an exploration of the region.

            Glen Coe, in the Scottish Highlands, is a wild, wooly place, where rocky crags top lush, green meadows, populated with grazing sheep and Highland cattle. It is a great place for a hike into the hills. The overall impression is of an untamed expanse, yet the presence of domesticated animals reveals that man has, to a certain extent, tamed this wilderness. This is Scotland at its best! The scenery is dramatic, the climate damp and cool -- a great scenic drive.

            During the summer months, a bagpiper, in costume, is stationed at the Urquhart Castle ruins and the effect of his music is magnificent.

 

     3. Wales

          Wales, located to the west of England, is part of what is known as Great Britain, ruled by the Prime Minister and Parliament of London, and paying allegiance to the England’s monarch, but is, in every other sense of the word, a separate country. Fiercely independent and proud, the Welsh people definitely possess their own individuality.

          Despite its size, Wales has almost 300 castles (some in ruins), so the country is a castle-lover’s dream come true. Some of the more notable ones are Caernarfon, Beaumaris, Conwy, and Harlech in the north, and Cardiff and Powis in the south. Another important sight is St David’s Cathedral, built in the 12^th century to commemorate the country’s patron saint. Also on the site is are the ruins of the Bishop’s Palace.

          Wordsworth fans will want to know that the ruins of Tintern Abbey can be found in the far eastern part of South Wales, near the town of Monmouth. Walk the marked woodland path to Devil’s Pulpit for a commanding view of the valley and the abbey.

 

     4. Glasgow, Scotland

          Glasgow, Scotland, seems to have succeeded in casting off its image as a dirty, industrial city and taken its place alongside Edinburgh (see #34 above) as an exciting and important modern travel destination. It has especially embraced the Arts, so much so that the majority of tourist attractions here are museums and art galleries. Perhaps the most important is the Burrell Gallery, south of the city center.

          Besides museums, tourists will want to visit the Glasgow Cathedral, one of the few not destroyed during the Reformation. It dates from the 13^th century. Also worth some time is Provand’s Lordship, the only remaining Medieval house in the city. Begin a walking tour at George Square and wander the Victorian neighborhoods toward the west.

          A worthwhile excursion southwest along the coast leads to Culzean Castle, with a dramatic setting at the top of cliffs above the beach. Stroll the lovely grounds and, inside, pay special attention to the unusual Parlor and Oval Staircase.

      Here are the remainder of the Eastern European countries which, again, have emerged from behind the wall of Communism and have entered the tourist scene of Europe. The southern group includes Slovenia, Romania, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and Bulgaria (Croatia & Montenegro have been covered separately). Check out the photo album which will follow shortly.

 

     1. Transylvania Region, Romania

            Transylvania, a region in the central part of Romania, offers charming Eastern European villages without the hordes of travelers to compete with, as well as excellent mountains to hike or ski. The Bucegi Mountains provide the hiking and skiing. Some of the best villages include Sinaia, which has Peles Castle, one of Romania’s finest, Brasov, with its beautiful central square (Piata Sfatului), lined with baroque buildings and restaurants, Bran, with its world-famous Bran Castle, reputed (although unlikely) home of Dracula, Vlad Tepes, a ruling Prince of Wallachia in the 15th century who gained the nickname, “the Impaler” because of his method of execution, Rasnov, with its own castle in impressive ruin, Prejmer, Harman, a walled Medieval gem, Sighisoara, with its many towers, and Sibiu, with its well-preserved Old Town.   

 

      2. Ljubjana, Slovenia

             Ljubjana, Slovenia, which has been described as a “little Prague” has much of the beauty and charm of the latter but without the hordes of tourists. Even though it is a fairly large city, Ljubjana has a small town feel, and, because of its University, seems forever young-at-heart. Some of the memorable sights within the Old Town include the Cathedral of St Nicholas, with its twin towers and beautiful frescoes, the Robba Fountain, modeled after one in Rome, the Town Hall, the Triple Bridge, over the Ljubljanica River, which also offers a beautiful riverside Colonnade, and the obligatory Ljubjana Castle, at the top of the hill.

 

     3. Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina

           Sarajevo, Bosnia-Hercegovina, because of its location at the crossroads between East and West, is notable as a somewhat “oriental” city. It was the home of Turkish Governors for four centuries and preserves many reminders of this period. The Turkish Quarter, Bascarsija, with its cobble-stoned streets is the heart of the Old Town.

           Sarajevo is also infamous in more recent history. It was the site of the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which precipitated World War I in 1914, and was also the scene of much fighting during the Bosnian conflict in the early 1990’s. Remnants of these events can also be seen within the city.

           A marvelous day trip lies about 200 kilometers (120 miles) to the southwest in the UNESCO World Heritage city of Mostar, now, unfortunately, a divided city with Croats on the west side of the river and Muslims to the east. Walk the cobbled streets and browse the shops which sell primarily Turkish goods. The Old Bridge (Stari Most) has been rebuilt, and it is safe for tourists to travel on both sides.

          While in the area, another 30 kilometers (20 miles) into the hills brings the visitor to Medugorje, an important Catholic pilgrimage site since 1981 when six teenagers claimed to have seen an apparition of the Virgin Mary.

 

      4. Sofia, Bulgaria

           Sofia is an excellent place to get a taste of Bulgaria. Realize that it was heavily bombed during World War II, so many of the structures are restorations. There are numerous churches, such as, the Church of St George, which has Roman roots (it incorporates a rotunda built in the 4^th century), St Nicholas Russian Church, which is an important pilgrimage site, the Church of St Sophia, which dates to the 6^th century and is the derivation of the city’s name, and Sveta Petka Samardjiiska, in a sunken section of the city, which was constructed in the 14^th century.

           Check out the Alexander Nevski Church, built in honor of the thousands of Russians who perished in the fight for Bulgarian independence. Just outside the city to the south is the hilly suburb of Boyana where the UNESCO-recognized Boyana Church displays its 13^th century frescoes. There are also numerous museums in the city.

           For Wizard of Oz fans, Sofia has an avenue paved with yellow bricks.

      Eastern Europe includes countries which were, until fairly recently, possessions of the USSR and, for all intents and purposes, off the tourist map. Since the fall of Communism and the break-up of the USSR, however, these countries have joined the rest of Europe and attracted millions of visitors. As a matter of fact, these countries have become even more popular since they were off-limits for so long. They are being rediscovered and some still remain "hidden gems". Join me as we travel through the northernmost of these countries - Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Hungary.  Look for the photo album which will follow.

 

    1. Prague, Czech Republic

           Prague is, without question, one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Spared the bombings that destroyed much of Europe’s great cities, it is well-preserved and recently awakened, liberated, from behind the Iron Curtain. Because of its new-found popularity, it is very crowded throughout the year.

           Prague is bisected by the Vlatava River, so can be conveniently separated into several days of tourism, without much overlap. The famous Charles Bridge provides the connection between the Castle District to the west and the Old Town to the east. There are plenty of must-see sights in both areas to warrant at least a day in each, depending on the available time.

           The western part of the city, known as the Castle District (Hradcany) contains Prague most visited attraction, Prague Castle (Prazsky Hrad), which is, in reality, a complex of buildings surrounded by walls. Important stops in the castle complex are St Vitus Cathedral, a 14th century Gothic structure which is notable for its stained glass windows and the tomb of Saint (King) Wenceslas, the patron saint of the Czech Republic, the Basilica of St George, which is even older (12th century), and Golden Lane (Zlata Ulika) which is a narrow alley lined with tiny homes (tradesmen’s quarters) which are built into the castle walls. An obligatory stop along the lane is at the Kafka House (#22), where the author lived and wrote. After a visit to the castle, walk down the hill toward the river to sample the Mala Strana (Lesser Town), a jumble of narrow streets and interesting shops, restaurants and other buildings. Possible stops include the Wallenstein Palace, and various churches, such as, St Nicholas and St Thomas.

          Leading eastward from Mala Strana is the Charles Bridge (Karlovy Most) which is one of the major gathering places in Prague. The bridge is always crowded with tourists, locals, street vendors and street musicians (watch your wallets and pocketbooks). It is noteworthy because of the numerous sculptures along its span.

          On the eastern side of the bridge is the Stare Mesto (Old Town) with its centerpiece, the Old Town Square (Starometske nam). It is one of the most beautiful squares in all of Europe with its pastel-colored palaces, striking churches, numerous outdoor cafes, and busy pedestrians. Particularly enchanting is the Old Town Hall with its Astronomical Clock, which entertains visitors with its workings every hour on the hour. Note also the large statue of Jan Hus, a religious reformer, the Baroque St Nicholas Church, and, perhaps most striking of all, at least from the outside, the Gothic Tyn Church with its twin steeples which towers over most of the other buildings.

           The remainder of the Old Town has many narrow streets, occasional, darling little squares, and many shops and restaurants.

           Another area to explore is New Town (Nove Mesto), with the historically and socially important Wenceslas Square. It was here that the Czech Republic threw off the mantle of Communism and began its entry into the world of modern Europe. This broad square is more a divided thoroughfare with myriad shops and restaurants and is great for people-watching. The National Museum dominates one end of the square. Note the many Art Nouveau buildings.

            An Art Nouveau gem, the Municipal House, is located between Wenceslas Square and Old Town Square, next to the Powder Tower. Its facade is beautiful and the interior is also striking. Guided tours are offered only a few times during the day, so check early and plan accordingly.

            Still another section of the Old Town is the Jewish Quarter where the Old-New Synagogue and the Jewish cemetery are the major attractions.

            The most popular excursion from Prague is to Karlstejn Castle, only about 30 kilometers (18 miles) southwest of the city. The castle occupies a commanding location, on a ridge above town and is a good example of a classic Eastern European castle.

 

     2. Budapest, Hungary

            Budapest, Hungary is another former Iron Curtain location which has recently emerged onto the tourist scene. Budapest, like Prague, is split into two sections: Buda, in the hills on the west side of the Danube, and Pest, the relatively flat area on the east side of the river. Again, the two areas of the city are connected by bridges, the most famous of which is called the Chain Bridge, marked by enormous Lion sculptures.

            The more interesting section for tourists is the Castle District (in the hills of Buda). The funicular from the foot of Castle Hill is rather expensive, but worth it to avoid the steep climb (walking back down is not difficult). Buda Castle, which sits ominously above the river is interesting and has beautiful grounds with many flowers and statues. Castle Square and the region around it are great to explore on foot. Check the crafts and vendors in the area just across the square from the castle (there are many Hungarian crafts at reasonable prices). Beyond this area is the Fisherman’s Bastion, which abuts St Matthias’ Church and the equestrian statue of St Stephen. The Fisherman’s Bastion is an elevated walkway with conical towers (there is a charge to walk the walls), which affords a beautiful, panoramic view of the Danube, the city of Pest, and the countryside beyond. There is also a great view from here of the Hungarian Parliament complex.

            Wander the charming streets of the Castle District before descending the hill to Pest. Take a detour at the river, turning northward to get a closer view of Parliament, with its neo-gothic silhouette and its exquisite stonework. On the eastern side of the river, walk along the Vaci Utca, a pedestrian shopping area, which is always crowded with people.

            Stop for a beer and a treat just off Castle square at the Cafe Sisi, on Tarnok Utca. Try the imported German beer, Aldersbacher, and have one of the best desserts in the world, known as Somlo Dumpling (a light, spongy cake with brandy-soaked cherries and walnuts, covered with a rich, dark chocolate sauce)-- to die for!!

 

     3. Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

             Cesky Krumlov is certainly one of the loveliest villages in all of Europe. It is located in southern Czech Republic, at a bend in the Vlatava River. It is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. This town is perfect for strolling because it is so compact, although there are some hills and steep sections to negotiate, especially on the Castle side of the river. Spend some time at the Castle and the Chateau which occupy a ridge to the north of the Old Town center. Then simply stroll the tiny, narrow streets and squares of the village, stopping occasionally to peruse the inventory of a shop or to nibble on a snack or meal at a restaurant or cafe.

             Looking down from the Castle to the town center makes a great picture

             An interesting excursion from the town is the city of Cesky Budejovice, about 25 kilometers (14 miles) to the north. This Medieval city is perfect for walking. Some notable sights include the Main Square (Nam Premysla Otakara II), which boasts the Samsanova Fountain, a Baroque Town Hall, the Cathedral of St Nicholas, and the imposing Black Tower. Also check out the Dominican Monastery.

 

     4. Krakow, Poland

             Krakow is the premier tourist destination in Poland. It is a large city but its Old Town is charming and extremely pleasant to walk. The Wawel dominates the upper part of the Old Town. It is really composed of two buildings, Wawel Castle and the Cathedral. Walking downhill via one of several narrow streets, one finally arrives at the Main Market Square (Rynek Glowny), a huge (the largest Medieval square in all of Europe) and delightful mix of shops, restaurants with outdoor dining, pubs, mimes, street musicians, etc. The atmosphere is extremely festive with thousands of people enjoying the area. At one end of the square is St Mary’s Church. From its bell tower, in the 13th century, a trumpeter was warning the townspeople with his horn that the enemy Tatars were approaching, when he was struck and killed by an arrow. Each hour, this scene is reenacted with the trumpeter beginning his warning and never completing it.

              The interior of St Mary’s Church is positively stunning. Ceilings and columns are painted a dark shade of red or maroon while many of the baroque accoutrements are black with gold trim, creating a striking appearance. The main altarpiece is exquisite (considered the finest Gothic sculpture in Poland). Unfortunately, picture-taking is prohibited.

              In the center of the square is the 16th century Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) which is now lined with myriad small shops selling assorted crafts. On the opposite side of the square from St Mary’s is the Town Hall tower which visitors may climb for a bird’s eye view of the square.

              The most important excursion from the city is to Auschwitz, German for Oswiecim, which was the location of the Nazi’s largest and most-infamous concentration camp. It was here that genocide reached its pinnacle. Nearly two million people of various ethnic groups were exterminated here. The exhibition which involves a tour of the barracks, gas chambers and crematorium is a somber reminder of one of the nadirs of human history. A guidebook is provided to visitors, which is sufficient for exploring the camp. A film which documents the liberation of the survivors by the Russians is shown frequently during the day.

              A shuttle bus operates during most of the year to ferry visitors to nearby Birkenau, which was where most of the actual exterminations took place. Plan on an extremely somber experience and a depressing day, but a visit here is necessary to truly appreciate the holocaust.

 

     5. Bratislava, Slovakia

              Bratislava, Slovakia, is an relatively undiscovered gem of Eastern Europe. Only 80 kilometers (50 miles) from Vienna, it is a world away in culture. The town center is a charming, small, compact area with an adorable town square. In the center of the square, vendors display their local crafts and trinkets. The Town Hall, with its cute, yellow tower, plays music every hour.

              Around the corner from the town hall, in its own small square, is the Primate Palace, where Napoleon and Franz I, the Austrian Emperor, once signed a peace treaty (1805). There are tapestries on display as well as a Hall of Mirrors (which pales compared to Versailles’). In the courtyard is St George’s Fountain.

              The entire Old Town is pedestrian-only, so it is a pleasure to walk the narrow streets. Check out Michalska Street, anchored at one end by Michael’s Tower, which is attached to a gate through the Medieval walls of the city.

              The obligatory Bratislava Castle is a considerable climb (hundreds of stairs) from the Old Town.

              In the Primate Palace are some of the most beautiful and modern rest rooms in Europe (worth the price of admission to the palace!)

              Just off the town square, opposite the Franciscan Church, is a charming little restaurant, Vinaren Velky frantiskani, which serves delicious local specialties at great prices. Try the Cesnakova polievka (Garlic Soup) and the Bryndzove Halusky, dumplings baked with sheep’s milk cheese and bits of bacon. Entering the restaurant is reminiscent of entering a cave, since it is downstairs with low ceilings -- very attractive.

 

      6. Warsaw, Poland

               Warsaw is the capital and largest city in Poland. It has a history which dates to the Middle Ages and includes much war and destruction. World War II, however, was its most devastating time, when almost three-quarters of a million residents were killed or exterminated. The city itself was virtually destroyed. However, Warsaw has been painstakingly rebuilt and its Old Town (Stare Miasto) is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

               Castle Square (Plac Zamkowy) is probably the best place to begin an exploration of the Old Town. The Royal Castle has been rebuilt and now is a museum -- be sure to see the King’s Apartments. Nearby is Old Town Square (Rynek Starego Miasta). Not far away is New Town Square. The streets of both New Town and Old Town are delightful to stroll.

               A great walk in Warsaw involves following the Royal Way, the route from the Royal Castle to the Lazienki Palace, the summer palace of the rulers of Poland. Along the way, visit several churches, such as St Anne’s and the Church of the Holy Cross, which contains the heart of Chopin, as well as a number of museums and palaces. The end of the route is Lazienki Park which encloses the Palace.

 

      7. Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic

              Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic, is the largest and oldest of the Czech Republic’s many spas. It was an extremely popular location for the rich and famous of the 19th and 20th centuries. Because of its popularity, the town has a decidedly Victorian elegance and is certainly pleasant to stroll. Be sure to sample the medicinal waters from the Vridlo (Sprundel Spring), across from the House of the Three Moors. Also take the Diana Funicular Railway, if operating, to the Diana Tower for great views of the town and the surrounding area.

              Karlovy Vary is also the origin of world-renowned Bohemian crystal. There are many shops in town which sell authentic examples.

 

      8. Kutna Hora, Czech Republic

              Kutna Hora, Czech Republic, is a village which had its boom in the 14th century when its silver mines were the source of most of the currency of Europe. When the boom ended in the 16th century, people left and the town was fairly undisturbed until it emerged again as a tourist destination, very recently. It was given World Heritage Site status in 1996. The Old Town is charming. Be sure to check out the Cathedral of St Barbara, the Church of Our Lady, and the former Royal Mint, now a museum.

              

     9. Telc, Czech Republic

              Telc is one of the gems of Moravia, the eastern part of the Czech Republic. Prague and the other locations listed for the country are in Bohemia, the western part. Telc is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is just waiting to be discovered by tourists. A devastating fire in 1530 destroyed many of the Gothic buildings, so they were rebuilt in the Renaissance style.

               Old Town Square is charmingly lined with numerous mansions, the most important of which is the Water Chateau (at the northwest end), and several churches, St Jacob’s and the Church of the Holy Spirit, as well as several fountains and a plague memorial, the Marian Column, in the center.

               Several nearby ponds provide excellent photo opportunities as well as places to relax and savor the moment.

               Travel approximately 140 kilometers (80 miles) northeast of the city to find the adorable Czech town of Olomouc. Wander its charming town square with its elaborate fountains, the Baroque Holy Trinity Column, and beautiful buildings and the narrow streets of the historic center for a pleasant treat without the hordes of tourists that usually are found in this type of venue.

 

     10. Eger, Hungary

                Eger, Hungary, is located in the more mountainous northern part of the country. The charming town is replete with buildings designed in the Copf style, a sort of Hungarian version of Baroque. Particular places to stop for the tourist include the Lyceum, with its Observatory providing great views of the city, Eger Cathedral, presiding over the city on a prominent hill, Dobo Istvan Ter, a market place which has become the main city square, and, of course, Eger Castle, which commands the lofty northeastern side of the town. While in the castle complex, check out the underground casemates, dug from the rock of the mountain.

                This area is famous for its strong, red wine, so visitors are encouraged to sample it. The best place for tasting is the area known as the Valley of the Beautiful Women (Szepasszony-volgy), just southwest of the city center.

                To the southeast, relax in the Archbishop’s Garden, which also contains some of the thermal baths for which the area was renowned.

 

           

     Portugal lies at the southeastern extremity of Europe. Because of its long shoreline, it has long been noted for fishing and commerce. As a matter of fact, Portugal was one of Europe's leader inexploration in the 15th and 16th century, with names such as, Magellan and Vasco de Gama. Today, Portugal is no longer a leader in the European community, but its past demands respect and there are many sights worthy of the tourist's interest and attention. Below are some of the best places to visit. A photo album will eventually follow.

 

     1. Sintra

           Sintra, Portugal, was the summer retreat for Portuguese monarchs for over 500 years and is only about 25 km (15 miles) northwest of Lisbon (see # 81 below). Sintra has two fine palaces to attract the tourist -- Queluz National Palace (Palacio Nacional de Queluz), with is ornate light-colored stonework and its elaborately decorated ceilings, and the Pena National Palace (Palacio Nacional da Pena), with its towers, turrets and battlements, and its ostentatious furnishings.

           Sintra is also justly famous for its gardens. The Pena Gardens, next to the palace, and the Monserrate Gardens, west of the city, are noteworthy.

 

     2. Lisbon

           Lisbon, Portugal, although old and crumbling, is the heart and soul of Portugal. The Old Town is made up of several neighborhoods, the most important of which are the Barrio Alto, the Upper Town, with its confusing network of hilly streets, and Baixa, the Lower Town, whose streets are considerably more orderly. Of special note is Rossio Square, which is, today, lined with shops and restaurants, but was the scene of many burnings during the Inquisition.

           Also in the city are vestiges of the ancient Roman city, the site of which is now occupied by St George’s Castle (Castelo de Sao Jorge), in the Alfama district, a charming maze of alleyways and stairs and narrow cobble-stoned streets, with tile-covered buildings. Take Tram #28 to the Castle, at the top of one of Lisbon’s seven hills, for a great view of the city. Se (cathedral) is the oldest church in the city and a local landmark. It was begun in the 1100’s in the Romanesque style.

           But Lisbon is, above all, a maritime city and this heritage may be best explored in the suburb of Belem. The must-sees here include the white Padrao dos Descobrimentos, a marvelous ship-shaped monument to Portuguese explorers, such as Henry the Navigator, Magellan, and Vasco de Gama, and the Torre de Belem, the 16th century tower, built to repel attacks from pirates, which has now been given World Heritage Site status. Also, near the waterfront is the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, another World Heritage Site, which contains the tomb of Vasco de Gama, one of Portugal’s most famous explorers, and dates to 1501. The monastery was constructed, in large measure, from revenue derived from the trade of pepper.

          A favorite excursion from the city is the picturesque walled town of Obidos, about an hour north of Lisbon. Its narrow, cobblestone streets and Medieval, white-washed buildings, festooned with flowers, are a delight to explore. The walls are 13 meters (45 feet) high and dotted with towers. There is, of course, the attractive, obligatory castle at the highest point of the town.

          Another popular side trip is 65 miles (40 kilometers) to the northwest, in the village of Fatima. Here is the location of one of the most famous miracles in the history of the Roman Catholic Church, the appearance of the Virgin Mary to three local children in 1937. Since then, the Basilica, built to honor the event and housing the tombs of the children, has become a major pilgrimage site.

 

      3. Algarve Region

           The Algarve region of Portugal lies along the southern coast of the country, its only Mediterranean shore. The area has become a tourist attraction for its lovely beaches, its sometimes rugged coastline, and its small, quaint villages and cities, such as Faro, which has lovely squares and several interesting churches.

           Check out the tiny town of Vila Real de Santo Antonio, just inside the border with Spain. The main village square is charming and the pedestrian-only side streets have numerous shops.

 

     4. Madeira Island

           Madeira Island, a territory of Portugal, which lies about 650 kilometers (400 miles) south of Lisbon (see above), just off the coast of Africa, is a lush, tropical paradise and a magnet for Europeans, especially the British, on holiday. More recently, it has been discovered by the rest of the world. Funchal is the capital city and typical base of operations for the tourist.

           The best way to experience and explore the interior of the island is by walking the many footpaths which are found along the “levadas,” irrigation channels built by the original settlers to bring water to their remote farms. Get a list of walks from the Tourist Information Center in Funchal. Visit the Madeira Story Center, in the oldest part of the city, for an entertaining look at the geological and cultural history of the island. Nearby is a Cable Car which whisks tourist to Monte, popular for the Monte Palace Tropical Garden and its museum.

           Don’t forget to try the Madeira, a sweet wine, named for the island.

      Switzerland is an unusual nation. It has no native language, yet it has fierce national pride. It is small and sits in the center of Europe, yet has remained neutral in wars for hundreds of years. It is also incredibly picturesque, with its ubiquitous alpine scenery and adorable villages. Relax and savor my tribute to this beautiful land.

 

     1. Swiss Alps & Villages

            The Swiss Alps and its Villages hold an allure unmatched in Europe, since there are not that many heart-stopping nature areas as one might find in the United States, Africa, or South America, for instance. Thus, the Alps are a major source of pride for all Europeans. Their ski areas are among the finest and most developed in the world, and the scenery in this “roof” of Europe is extraordinary. Switzerland seems to have the majority of the highest peaks, so tourists flock to this country in all seasons to experience the mountains.

            One of the most scenic areas of the Swiss Alps is known as the Bernese Oberland, in central Switzerland, southeast of the capital, Berne (see #33 below). Villages in the area which might serve as a base of operations include Interlaken, situated between two alpine lakes, from which visitors can see the famous Alp, Jungfrau, or stroll the Hoheweg, with its hotels, shops and restaurants, the sleepy village of Gimmelwald, Grindelwald, a great place for skiing, Gstaad, Murren (take a cable car to Schilthorn, a mountaintop vantage point with a revolving restaurant and magnificent views), Lauterbrunnen, with its waterfalls, Thun, which has a romantic castle overlooking its lake and a two-tiered shopping area along the Hauptgasse (its main street), and, finally, Wengen.

 

     2. Berne

           Berne, the capital of Switzerland, is a beautiful, walled Medieval city. The Old Town is compact, pleasant to walk, and loaded with charm. It is, fittingly, a UNESCO World Heritage Site At one entrance to the town is the Bear Pit, a deep enclosure for the brown bears which symbolize Bern. Other significant attractions include the elaborate Glockenspiel (Clock Tower) which has parading figures on the hour (arrive early for a good view of the workings). The Munster (Cathedral) dominates the skyline. Note the carved scenes of heaven and hell above the main entrance. Streets are narrow and buildings exude a spirit of “old” with their dark gray stone.

          Cross the river and climb the steep path to the Rose Garden for glorious views of the city and its rooftops on the banks of the Aare River.

 

     3. Luzerne

          Luzerne is a Medieval gem of a city on the banks of Lake Lucerne beneath imposing Mt Pilatus, certainly a gorgeous setting. Add in quaint, old buildings, and, most impressive of all, the Kappelbrucke (Chapel Bridge), and you have the makings of a major stop on the tourist route through Europe.

          The Kappelbrucke, which dates to the early 1300’s, is a long covered bridge, elevated on pilings above the Reuss River. The entire history of Switzerland is traced in a series of triangular paintings under the roof of the wooden bridge. The pictures are numbered and, going and coming, offer a chronological look at the major events which shaped the country over the centuries. What a magnificent archive! Imagine how upset the townspeople were when much of their beloved bridge burned in 1993. However, it has been lovingly restored and continues to welcome tourists galore. Note also the picturesque tower (the Wasserturm), beside the bridge, which was once a prison.

           Other buildings of note in the town include the Jesuitenkirche, a beautiful Baroque building, Spreuerbrucke, another covered bridge with gable paintings, the Rathaus (town hall) with its Swiss roof and Italian Renaissance façade, the castle (Museggmauer) with its 600 year old walls, and the Hofkirche, whose arcades house the remains of many of the city’s important families.

          

     4. Zurich

          Zurich, Switzerland, bustles with business men and women during the work day, bustles with students at night, and bustles with tourists at all times. There is fantastic shopping along Bahnhofstrasse, and access to the lakeshore and associated boat tours at Burkliplatz. Religious attractions include the Grossmunster (Great Cathedral) with its twin towers that symbolize Zurich, and Fraumunster, a Gothic church with modern stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall.

 

      5. Geneva

           Geneva, Switzerland, is truly an international city, exemplified by the presence of the United Nations European Headquarters as well as the headquarters of the World Council of Churches -- certainly an eclectic mix.

           It is located, picturesquely, on Lake Geneva with the glorious Alps as a backdrop. Its climate is mild, which adds to its popularity. A walk along the lakefront reveals one of the symbols of the city, Jet d’Eau, simply a water fountain out in the lake which rises to a height of 140 meters (400 feet).

           Another city symbol revolves around the concept of time, watches being an important product here. Within the Jardin Anglais (English Garden), is Geneva’s famous Flower-Clock, a large watch dial made from thousands of flowers (the types vary with the season). The entire concept dramatizes Switzerland’s prominence in the area of technology and the attention to detail which is a hallmark of the Swiss people.

           Other must-see sights in the city include St Peter’s Cathedral, begun in the 12^th century but modified significantly over the course of its construction. Climb the church’s North Tower (157 stairs) for a fabulous panorama of the city. The Reformation Wall (100 meters long), a monument to Protestantism, is located in Bastions Park. Place du Bourg-de-Four, in the center of the Old Town, is the local gathering place. Elegant buildings surround the square.

           The suburb of Carouge also makes for a lovely stroll. This town was specially designed in the 18^th century and is a treasure-trove of lovely fountains, shaded squares, and stately homes.

 

     6. Basel

           A common base of operations for an exploration of the Alsace region and also for a river cruise along the Rhine is the Swiss city of Basel, located at a bend in the Rhine River where France, Germany, and Switzerland meet. Basel has a cute, little Old Town with a bright, red Town Hall and several interesting fountains.

     This is one of my favorite fall foliage day trips. Unbelievably, it passes through five (5) different states. It incorporates several interstate highways as a way of saving time, but primarily travels through a number of small towns and villages in New England. Obviously, the trip can be extended to involve several days, which will allow more and longer stops at several high points. The road trip as outlined below begins and ends in Rhode Island (my home) but, since it is a loop, it can be adapted to any starting point along its extent. The total mileage of this loop is approximately 315 miles. Allow a long, long day for the entire circuit.

 

     Begin on Interstate 295 in Rhode Island and travel west on US Rte 6 to Rte 101 West (Scituate). Follow Rte 101 into Pomfret, CT, then take Rte 169 North through Pomfret village and Woodstock. Be sure to stop for a few moments to admire Roseland Cottage, along the way, and then continue into Massachusetts. In Southbridge, get onto Rte 131 North to Sturbridge, then north on I-84 to the Massachusetts Turnpike (I-90) heading west. Just past Springfield, take I-91 North as far a Deerfield. If time permits, stop in Deerfield Village, a very old New England community or at the Yankee Candle Store. Otherwise, travel west on Rte 2 (the Mohawk Trail), one of Massachusetts' most scenic highways. Take a short detour to Shelburne Falls to see the Bridge of Flowers, then get back on Rte 2 West through North Adams (check out the famous panoramic overlook) and on to the lovely community of Williamstown, a quintessential college town. In Williamstown, turn north on Rte 7 into Vermont. In Bennington, stop for a few moments at Bennington Battle Monument and climb to the top for commanding views of the picturesque countryside. Then travel East on Rte 9 across Vermont and as far as Keene, New Hampshire, then take Rte 101 East toward Peterborough. Next take Rte 202 South through Jaffrey (perhaps stop in at the Monadnock Inn for dinner) and on into Massachusetts. In Winchendon, pick up Rte 140 South to I-190 South, then I-290 South to Worcester. In Worcester, take Rte 146 South back into Rhode Island and onto I-295, your starting point.  

 

      

       Central Africa is mostly about wildlife. Much of this is the heart of Africa, with dense jungles and broad savannnas. This area is much more difficult to get to, since cities and airports are few and far between. However, this part of Africa can be the most rewarding for undaunted traveler, since there is no other place on earth where the diversity of life is more on exhibition. Enjoy my suggestions for the best of Central Africa, then check out the photo album which will soon follow.

 

     1. Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania

            Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania, was originally part of the Serengeti National Park (see below) which it abuts, but was given a separate designation in 1959 in order to accommodate the Masai people who still live and farm on this territory.

            Its entrance is 60 kilometers (35 miles) west of Lake Manyara National Park and 145 kilometers ( 80 miles) east of the Serengeti National Park. There are great views of Mount Kilimanjaro (see below) along the route to the park.

            A visitor’s first breathtaking view of the crater usually occurs at Heroes Point, at an altitude of 2,300 meters (7,000 feet). Park officials estimate that there are about 30,000 animals in the crater, which is the caldera of a volcano. Only 4-wheel drive vehicles are allowed in the crater, and these can be rented in Crater Village.

            Tourist agencies and tour operators, when discussing safaris or visits to the wildlife parks of Africa frequently refer to the “Big Nine”, the animals which are on almost everyone’s wish list when in Africa. These large mammals are Buffalo, Cheetah, Elephant, Giraffe, Hippopotamus, Lion, Leopard, Rhinoceros, and Zebra. Most of these creatures are visible in this park. Others include Wildebeest, Thompson’s Gazelle, Ostrich, and flamingo.

            Also within the national park, in the northwestern section, is Olduvai Gorge, the famous area where Dr Louis Leakey and his wife, Mary, made incredible anthropological discoveries of Australopithecus and Homo habilis. These are among the most important specimens of pre-historic man ever found, and the area is still being explored today.

           A great excursion from Ngorongoro is east to Lake Manyara National Park. Since it is a fairly small park, it can be visited in a day. Here visitors will probably spend most of their time along the “main track”, a 35-40 kilometer (20-25 mile) one-way trip through the park with access to most of the main viewing areas.

           This park contains an incredible amount of bird life in addition to the big game. Some necessary stops include Mahali pa Ngati (Place of the Buffalo) which also has, besides the herd of old buffalo bulls, zebra and impala, the Hippo Pool, and, near the Masai Bridge, an area where tree-climbing lions as well as baboons may be seen. Also in the park are Hot Springs, along the Rift Valley Escarpment.

 

     2. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

            Serengeti National Park, is the second largest national park in Tanzania and certainly the most famous. It was established as a national park in 1951 and conjures up images in the minds of most people of an African savanna teeming with large wildlife. This park actually lives up to the expectations.

            The Serengeti is famous for its animal migrations which are timed with the arrivals of the wet and dry seasons of the savanna. For instance, from the end of June to November, thousands of animals, especially wildebeest, migrate northward toward the Masai-Mara Game Reserve (see below) in Kenya, seeking water and good grazing land. They are, of course, followed and stalked by the large predators such as lions and cheetahs. It is probably the best time to visit since the few water holes that remain in the dry season are crowded with animals of all types.

            One of the characteristics of these short-grass and long-grass plains is the presence of kopjes, hillocks of granite which provide hiding places for smaller creatures and thus attract other wildlife.

            Several areas of interest within the park include the Retina Hippo Pool, in a section of the park known as the “western corridor”, the Lobo area, in the northeastern part of the park, which has wildlife year-round, and the Mara River where crocodiles and hippos may be seen.

 

     3. Victoria Falls, Zambia/Zimbabwe

            Victoria Falls, the world’s largest waterfalls, is located on the border between western Zimbabwe and southwestern Zambia. Here, for a distance of about 2 kilometers (1.4 miles), the Zambezi River plunges over a cliff and falls 100 meters (300 feet) into the Batoka Gorge. The town of Livingstone, Zambia allows access to the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park where visitors can get close to the falls.

            On the Zimbabwe side, the closest town is Victoria Falls and access is via Victoria Falls National Park. A pathway along the falls affords great views from the Livingstone Statue, on the western part of the walk, to Cataract View and on to Danger Point.

            Visitors should note that clouds of spray from the falls soar up to 500 meters (1,500 feet) and obscure much of the scenery, so that the best time to visit is from September to November, the dry season when the volume of water is less, so there is less spray.

 

     4. Zanzibar, Tanzania

            Zanzibar, Tanzania, is a city which people tend to associate with exotic images. It was always famous as a trading location for its spices, especially cloves, and was actually a separate country until 1964 when it merged with Tanganyika to form the modern country of Tanzania. The area that is called Zanzibar is actually made up of two coral islands, Umguja and Pemba. It is on the island of Umguja that the famous Stone Town, recognized as a World Heritage Site, is found.

            Stone Town, in its heyday in the 19^th century, was an important center for international trade and the most important city in East Africa. It has managed to preserve much of its charm and architecture, probably because the end of the slave trade caused a shift in focus to other cities with more important commodities.

            Walking through the city’s narrow streets and alleyways reveals much of what Zanzibar was, in the past. Some of the important attractions include Beit-el-Ajaib (House of Wonders) which served as the Sultan’s palace when first built in 1883 and still stands out as the tallest building in town. The Old Fort dates to about the year 1700 AD. Beit-al-Sahel (People’s Palace) was the home of most of the sultans till the revolution of 1964. It is now a museum. A popular stop for tourists is the Livingstone House where the famous doctor made preparations for his excursions into the interior of Africa. The Anglican Church of Christ, built in 1887 to commemorate the end of the slave trade, has impressive marble pillars and beautiful stained glass windows.

            Other sights that might be included on a walking tour are the ornate City Hall, the Central Market, on Creek Road, and Mambo Msiige, a house on the western end of town which once belonged to a wealthy slave trader.

            Zanzibar Island can be reached by fast ferry from Dar es Salaam, the capital and largest city of Tanzania, or by air from various cities in Africa.

 

      5. Madagascar Island

            Madagascar Island has long been a region of great mystery. Because of its isolation, several hundred kilometers (about 125 miles) off the African coast, evolution produced a diverse and unique set of wildlife. Many of the creatures on the island are found nowhere else in world. Examples of these animals include about 50 species of lemurs, chameleons, and an incredible variety of birds.

            The capital of the country is Antananarivo, located in the central highlands section of the island. Its narrow, cobblestone streets and interesting architecture make it an attractive place to spend a day or two. Sights in the city include Rova (Queen’s Palace) which is now in ruins because of a fire in 1995, but which dominates the city at the top of its highest hill, the daily Zoma Market, and Lac Anosy, a lake within the city which has an interesting island in the middle containing the Monument to the Dead.

           But a trip to Madagascar is all about the wildlife, so visitors tend to travel to at least one of the country’s national parks.

           Parc National de Ranomafana boasts 12 species of lemurs. The most popular section of the park is known as Talatakely. Walk the Ala Mando Trail (about 2 hours) for some great wildlife viewing.

           Another park, the Parc National de L’Isalo is located in the southern part of the island. This park has some of Madagascar’s best scenery, with erosion-sculpted rocks and canyons.

 

      6. Mount Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania

           Mount Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania, preserves the highest mountain in Africa, at almost 5900 meters (18,000 feet), and an icon of the African continent. It can be seen from many of the national parks in the “Northern Circuit” such as, Ngorongoro Crater (see above), Serengeti National Park (see above) and Lake Manyara National Park as well as the roads which lead to them.

           But for those who would like to climb the mountain, the village of Marangu sits at the park entrance and is equipped to service would-be climbers. The best times are probably January to February and September to October because there is usually a cloud obscuring the mountain at other times of the year.

 

     7. Masai Mara Game Reserve, Kenya

           Masai Mara Game Reserve, Kenya, located about 275 kilometers (150 miles) west of Nairobi and abutting the Serengeti National Park (see above) of Tanzania, is the most popular wildlife park in Kenya. As mentioned above, it is contiguous with the Serengeti and temporarily receives much of its game during the annual migration. All of the “Big Nine” are potentially visible here. Probably the best place to see animals is at Oloololo, the escarpment on the western edge of the reserve.

      Austria is one of the most scenic countries in Europe. Much of its western sections are dominated by the Alps. The Danube River runs along the northern border. Besides adorable Alpine villages and the music-themed town of Salzburg, Austria contains the elegant city of Vienna, with some of the most beautiful architecture in all of Europe. Enjoy my tribute to the best of Austria. Then check out the photo album which will soon follow.

 

     1. Vienna

            Vienna, Austria, is a city which blends some of the best of Europe’s architecture, music, food, and vitality in a single, cosmopolitan package. It was thankfully spared much of the destruction that other large cities of Europe absorbed during World War II, so it remains a showplace today.

            Most tours of the city begin at the Kartnerstrasse, a long, pedestrian-only avenue which serves as a hub for an exploration of the inner city. The crowds are always enormous, but constantly moving and, unless you are trying to cut across, easily manageable. Major focal points on the Kartnerstrasse are Stephansplatz and its focal point, Stephansdom, whose steeple still dominates the skyline of the city. It is a beautiful, Gothic cathedral, especially distinctive because of its mosaic tile roof, many intricate, stone sculptures, and wood-carved altar.

           In Stephansplatz, there are numerous young people, dressed like Mozart, who are selling tickets to music concerts. Splurge a little, especially if you can book a concert at the Musikverein (Golden Hall), a splendid venue, considered one of the top five acoustical halls in the world.

           Don’t forget to sample “wurst und bier” at one of the ubiquitous stands along the pedestrian street.

           For a completely unique Viennese experience, walk to or drive by the Hundertwasserhaus, an apartment complex designed with an eclectic hodgepodge of architectural styles, festooned with trees and vines, and painted in squares of various colors.

           Stadtpark, located along the inner ring road, is a kaleidoscope of flowers, trees, sculptures, and quiet paths. Note, particularly, the statue of Johann Strauss, Jr, who is standing under an archway, playing the violin, surrounded by flowers.

           Belvedere Palace, just outside the inner ring, is a beautiful estate, now a museum, on a small hill which provides a view of the Vienna Woods, so beloved by Strauss and the Viennese people. The grounds are well manicured, extremely attractive, and enhanced by reflecting pools and sculptures as well as the buildings themselves.

           The Hofburg is the magnificent winter palace of the Hapsburgs. There are numerous buildings and courtyards that compose the complex and one could easily spend the better part of a full day to see it all. It exudes a regal elegance which is appropriate to the station of its residents. Of note are the Imperial Treasury (one of the greatest in the world), the Imperial Apartments (with their tapestries, silver, and porcelain), the Chapel, the New Chateau (Neue Burg), the National Library, and the Albertina (a museum of graphic arts and other artworks).

           Schonnbrunn Palace, the summer residence of the Hapsburgs, was originally a hunting lodge, but has evolved into a palace along the lines of Versailles, with 1441 rooms, vintage furnishings, and elaborate, formal gardens. It is located on the outskirts of Vienna, conveniently accessible via mass transit from the inner city. It, like Versailles, contains a Hall of Mirrors. Much of the tour of the interior chronicles the life and times of Maria Theresa, who ruled for 40 years. The State Apartments are perhaps the most impressive (and also the most ornate) rooms in the palace, especially the “Room of Millions”.

           The grounds of the mansion are Romanesque, elegant and extensive, from the flower gardens, nearest the residence, to the “Roman Ruins” a huge collection of fountains and sculptures, to the Gloriette, a marble villa with a stone canopy displaying the Imperial Eagle. Be aware that the walk up to the Gloriette is rather steep and lengthy.

           Included in the price of admission at Schonnbrunn is a demonstration of the art of strudel-making, done in the Imperial kitchens. The program is fascinating, informative and ends with a sample of some of the best strudel in the world.

 

     2. Salzburg

           Salzburg, Austria, is the birthplace of Mozart and, more recently, the setting for the movie, “The Sound of Music”. These two connections seem to be the major themes of visits to Salzburg these days. However, there is more to Salzburg than this. It is a quaint, old, Medieval town with narrow streets lined with shops and restaurants, each with their own distinctive sign. Streets empty into numerous squares, many with fountains and street performers.

           Notable attractions include Mozart’s Geburtshaus (birthplace), Hohensalzburg (the white fortress at the top of the hill), Getreidegasse (the main shopping street and gathering place), and Mozartplatz (Mozart Square) where the chimes of the Glockenspiel play a Mozart melody several times during the day.

           A walking tour of the city should also include a stop at the Mirabell Gardens, on the other side of the river from the Old Town. The gardens are beautiful with fountains and statues, plus they appeared in the Sound of Music, so are part of any tour of movie sights. The gardens also provide a beautiful view looking back toward the fortress.

           After visiting Mirabell Gardens, walk back to the Old Town via the footbridge over the Salzbach River for a postcard view of the city with its many church spires and the castle above it all.

           Just outside of town, Hellbrunn Castle is a great stop, especially for children. Besides the Sound of Music gazebo which is on the grounds, the palace is noted for its trick fountains, found throughout the gardens, which spray water on the unsuspecting.

 

     3. Tyrolean Villages

            The Austrian Villages of the Tyrol are world famous for skiing and are also significant because of their lovely setting, nestled among the Austrian Alps.

            Innsbruck, Austria has long been recognized as one of the premier skiing venues in Europe, but this beautiful town is attractive and worth visiting at any time of the year. The Old Town has some striking architecture (check out the Golden Roof and the Heilbing House) and numerous shops offering a multitude of items. Another interesting sight is the Hofkirche, which contains the elaborately decorated mausoleum of Maximilian I, flanked by 28 bronze, life-size statues representing his real and legendary ancestors. His Imperial Palace, the Hofburg can also be visited.

            The view from St Anne’s Column, in Innsbruck, looking back toward the Golden Roof is positively spectacular.

            Some other towns that merit a visit while in Western Austria include the following:

            Igls, just south of Innsbruck, is very popular with skiers and was used extensively during the 1964 and 1976 Olympics for Alpine events. Mutters is another picturesque village a short distance from Innsbruck. Solden, about 90 kilometers (55 miles) south of Innsbruck, has a cable car to the top of Geislachkogel for great views and is also the beginning of the Ortzal Glacier Road, a panoramic alpine scenic drive. St Anton am Ahlberg is one of the best ski areas in the Alps and is extremely popular, even with the rich and famous. Seefeld was the setting for the Nordic events during the 1964 and 1976 Olympics. It is an extremely popular resort area and even boasts a theme park, Play Castle Seefeld, which is set in Medieval times. Zell am Ziller lies 60 kilometers (36 miles) east of Innsbruck, in the Ziller Valley, one of the prettiest in Austria. Kitzbuhel, besides its winter and summer recreational activities, has an adorable town just made for walking. Hall im Tyrol is another quaint village, just east of Innsbruck, which is great for walking. Visit Hasegg Castle and the Parish Church. Lienz is farther a field, in East Tyrol, on the northern side of the Dolomites from Italy. In the Hauptplatz, the main square, check out the Liebburg Palace.

 

      4. Melk Abbey

            Austria’s Melk Abbey is one of the most beautiful, Baroque buildings in the world. It sits dramatically atop the edge of a promontory over the Rhine River. The overall impression the visitor receives is one of great wealth -- everything in the abbey and its church, the Stiftskirche, is gilded and incredibly ornate. The library is famous the world over for the over 80,000 volumes in its collection and its beautiful wooden decor. The church, itself, is lavish in its ornamentation, with numerous gilded statues and frescoes.

            For a postcard view and photo-op of the abbey, visit the village of Melk below and walk along the river. The Abbey dominates the ridge above the town.

 

     5. Graz

           Graz, Austria, is a pleasant mix of old and new. The major tourist attractions are centered in the Old Town, which lies along the eastern bank of the Mur River. The lively heart of this area is the Hauptplatz, or main square (note the House of Luegg with its ornate stucco facade at the northern end). The best way to see the sights is by walking. Take the pedestrian-only Herrengasse which is lined with shops and restaurants and is the location of the tourist information office where visitors can obtain a map of the city center.

           Notice the Rathaus (Town Hall) and the Landhaus, an outstanding example of Italian Renaissance architecture, and the Landeszeughaus (Armory) which claims to display the largest collection of weaponry in the world (over 30,000 pieces). Also of note are the Burg (not open to visitors), a castle/palace built in the 15^th century, the nearby Domkirche (Cathedral), the Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II (he’s not buried here), and the lovely Statuary (City Park) with its splendid fountain.

           Spend some time in Schlossbergplatz (the square at the base of the castle which dominates the highest spot in town) before taking the funicular or climbing the steep stairs up to the Schlossberg, the citadel of the city. Note the famous and distinctive Bell Tower, with its bell known as “Liesl”, the Stallbastel, the former prison and storeroom, and the Clocktower, the symbol of the city.

           Outside the city center, about 2 miles (3 kilometers) west, is Schloss Eggenberg, which is loaded with astronomical symbolism. The palace has four towers, to represent the seasons, twelve gates, the months of the year, and 365 windows, one for each day.

           Two of Graz’s tourist attractions strikingly dramatize the mix of ancient and modern. Check out the Kunsthaus, the exhibition center, which has been nicknamed “the friendly alien” as well as the Murinsel, the island in the river which is supposed to resemble a huge, opened mussel shell.

 

     Northern Africa is dominated by the world's largest desert, the Sahara. Many of the great cities here began as caravan stops, oases, within the desert. Some have continued to today and have evolved into modern marketplaces. These fascinating locations are extremely different, culturally, from the European countries to their north, across the Mediterranean, and from the countries south of them, across the great desert expanse and into the jungles of Central Africa. Join me on a journey through this area, with stops at the best tourist sights. A photo album will eventually follow.

 

     1. Marrakech, Morocco

          Marrakech is one of the Imperial Cities of Morocco and the name itself evokes exotic thoughts of intrigue and mystery. It lies along several major caravan routes and has been a center for trade and commerce for almost 1,000 years. The Medina, or Old Town, is a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways, great for wandering. It is divided into souks or districts which are based on the particular craft or skill taking place. For instance, the carpet-making souk has numerous shops where material is woven into various types of materials, such as carpets, and then sold. Perhaps the most attractive of the souks is the wool-dyers, since this area may be the most colorful.

           The central marketplace, Jemaa-el-Fna is the heart and soul of the city. All manner of product can be purchased (haggling is expected) and entertainment and other commercial enterprises, such as snake-charmers, water-sellers, money-changers, are ubiquitous (and all expect something, even if it is only for a photograph being taken). By mid-afternoon, the square begins its transformation. The musicians begin to arrive for the evening entertainment and the food stalls are readied for the supper hour. Later, after the farmers and other sellers have gone home, the dancers will complete the metamorphosis into a block party.

           The Sa’adian Tombs, near the marketplace, are one of the most visited tourist attractions in the city, so be prepared to wait in line. Buried here are 66 members of this royal dynasty. The rooms are decorated with exquisite stonework, incredible ceilings and pillars. The graves are embellished with mosaics.

           El Badi Palace, now in ruins, was once one of the most sumptuous in the world, richly ornamented with gold, marble, ivory, and semi-precious stones, but it was looted and torn apart less than 100 years after its construction (which took the skilled craftsmen from all over the world seven years to complete). It is still interesting to wander among the ruins, imagining what it must have been like. It remains now the residence of storks.

           The Koutoubia Mosque with its minaret, the tallest in the city, was built in the 12^th century and is still a proud example of Moroccan Architecture. Although non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque, they can wander the grounds and glimpse the fine artisanship which produced this structure.

           Nine 12^th century gates lead in and out of the city and are remarkable for their seven-foot thick walls. Outside the gates, visitors should plan on seeing the Menara Gardens with their breath-taking setting at the base of the Atlas Mountain Range.

 

     2. Fez, Morocco

           Fez (Fes) is another of the Imperial Cities of Morocco. It is considered the most complete walled city in the Arab world and the oldest Imperial City in the country, having been founded in 789 AD. Even the new part of the city (Fez-el-Jedid) dates to the mid-13^th century. Fez is 250 miles north of Marrakech (see above).

           Fez-el-Bali, the Old City, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its Medina has almost 30 miles of narrow, twisted alleyways where it is extremely difficult not to get lost. As in other Imperial cities, the Medina is separated into souks. The area is particularly famous for leather and Fez’s tannery is the oldest and largest in the country (it is fairly easy to find because of its smell!).

           El Qaraiouiyyin Mosque, with its emerald roof tiles, is one of the largest and most exquisite Islamic structures in the world and sits on the grounds of the university, one of the oldest learning institutions in the world (857 AD). The university library even contains a copy of a 9^th century Koran.

           The Andalousian Mosque is easily noticed because of its white and green minaret and its name is a reminder of the unmistakable Andalusian influence on the architecture in much of Morocco.

           Medersa Bou Inania provides great views of the city from its rooftop, and can be visited by non-Muslims, even though it still actively functions as a religious institution.

           Unfortunately, the royal palace, Dar el Makhzen is not open to the general public.

 

     3. Timbuktu, Mali

           Timbuktu, Mali, is a city which seems to have an air of mystery and desolation around it. It is located at the southern edge of the Sahara Desert and became important as the terminus of the caravan trade route from West Africa to the Mediterranean Sea. It was a nomadic settlement as long ago as 1000 AD and seems to be named after the woman in charge of the original camp. The city became wealthy during the Middle Ages because of commerce, but gradually declined, beginning in the 1600’s, primarily because of the emergence of maritime trade. However, it is still an important stop on the salt-trade route, which begins at the mines north of the city, leads south to Timbuktu, then upriver to the city of Mopti.

           There are only a few actual attractions for the tourist. It probably needs to be part of any list of major travel destinations in Africa because of its mystique. Several worthwhile sights while in the area include the city’s three great mud mosques, the Djingereber Mosque, the oldest in the city, dating back to the early 1300’s, Sidi Yahya Mosque, and Sankore Mosque. The latter two cannot be visited by non-Muslims. Other sights include the Explorer’s Houses, most of which cannot actually be visited, and the Grand Marche’, the city’s main marketplace, a large, covered building in the town center, which is extremely lively and great for people-watching. Timbuktu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

            Various outfits offer camel rides of varying length into the desert. This activity is extremely popular here.

 

      4. Rock Churches of Ethiopia

            Ethiopia’s Rock Churches are found in the northern part of the country, roughly between the towns of Adwa and Lalibela. Near Adwa, the area is known as the Tigre section and most of the churches here are carved into the faces of cliffs. In the area around Lalibela, they are mostly underground.

            There are thought to be over 100 of these churches in the Tigre region. Some of the more significant ones include Hwazen Tekla Heymanot, near the town of Hwazen, Abraha Atsbeha, a very popular church built in a cruciform shape, and the Takatisfi Cluster, a group of three churches near one another, of which the most-celebrated is Medhane Alem Adi Kasho.

            Lalibela’s churches are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and includes 11 churches. The setting is spectacular, in rugged territory high up in the mountains at approximately 2600 meters (almost 8,000 feet). The churches can be conveniently subdivided into two groups, an eastern group and a western group. If guides are desired, be sure to set the price in advance and that good English is spoken.

            The eastern cluster includes Bieta Medhane Alem, the largest rock church in the world, and Bieta Maryam, which is richly decorated.

            The most famous of all Ethiopia’s rock churches is Bieta Giorgio, in the western group, which is another cross-shaped church, in this case, with high, steep walls. Also in this section is the Bieta Abba Libanos, which is built around, but separate from, a cave.

            Visitors might consider using the ancient city of Axum as a base of operations for an exploration of this area since it is interesting in its own right. This city was the capital of the entire country during the time of the Queen of Sheba (around 1000 BC). Its Church of St Mary of Zion claims to contain the famous Ark of the Covenant which, in the Old Testament, is a sacred, golden chest that contains the original Ten Commandment tablets.

            There are also several ruins of historical significance. There are ruins (little more than pillars are left) of the first Ethiopian Orthodox Church, which was constructed in the 4^th century, and also ruins of the Royal Palace.

             An excursion 365 kilometers (200 miles) to the southwest brings the visitor to another former capital of Ethiopia, Gondar, which has numerous castles and palaces to explore. The walled Royal Enclosure contains five castles with connecting tunnels, as well as several elevated walkways. Specific attractions include the Castle of Fasilades, which dates to the mid-17^th century, the Palace of Ras Beit, an 18^th century structure, the Bath of Fasilades, which is still used during an annual festival, and the beautiful Church of Debre Birhan Selassie, with its painted ceilings and walls.

             Just outside the city is the Quouquaim Church. A walk to this pretty church provides great views.

 

     5. Tunis, Tunisia

             Tunis, Tunisia, is located in the northeastern part of the country, on a lake just inland from the Mediterranean Sea. The major attraction of the city, as with many North African Islamic communities, is its walled, 7^th century Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, whose maze of alleys, narrow streets, and souqs (markets) are a delight to wander and browse. Many visitors focus their attentions on the Souq el Attarine (the perfume market).

             Within the Medina is the city’s largest and most important mosque, the 9^th century Mosque of the Olive Tree. Just 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) west of the city, in the suburb of Le Bardo is the famous Bardo National Museum, which has a world-class collection of Roman mosaics.

             The major excursion from the city is to the site of the ancient city of Carthage, northeast of the city center. Climb the Byrsa Hill for panoramic views of the archaeological site. Only scant and scattered ruins remain.

             Near Carthage is another excellent side trip -- to the village of Sidi Bou Said whose white-washed buildings and narrow, cobblestone streets are set high on a cliff looking out over the Mediterranean.