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Gary Mazzie

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Travel is a passion --
I am writing my own travel book
November 11

Spotlight on the Amalfi Coast

  

            The Amalfi Coast Drive, located southwest of the city of Naples, is, arguably, the most spectacular drive in the world. The road (SS 163) winds its way along cliffs which hover precipitously above the ocean.  Nestled at various points along the drive are small, charming towns which cling to the cliffs of the Latari Mountains and tumble down to the Tyrrhenian Sea. The entire length is only about 48 kilometers (30 miles) but beautiful views are found throughout. The road is extremely narrow and is especially hazardous when large tour buses approach from the opposite direction. However, it is all worth the effort as long as there is no urgency.  Plan to stop at several of the Villages, such as Positano, Amalfi, or Maiori to enjoy the ambience and to experience the slow pace and charm. 

            Among the villages, Positano is one of the most popular. Its main street is lined with shops and restaurants and must be appreciated by walking.  Parking in all these villages is a potential problem; however, there are several parking lots available as well as some on-street parking. There is much to do at any time of the day in Positano, which adds to its popularity.  Admire the Santa Maria Assunta Church with its gold and green ceramic dome, on the Piazza Flavio Gioia.  Stroll along the flower-festooned Via Mulini and linger at its little squares. Find your way to the Spraggia Grande, the main beach, then to the stone pier at one end, and climb the staircase to the Via Positanesi d‘ America, a walkway which provides excellent views.

            Amalfi, at the opposite end of the drive, is the largest community on this section of coast, so also affords visitors a wealth of activities and makes a good base of operations for those staying on the coast. Its Duomo, with its Paradise Cloister, is one of the sights worth mentioning.

            Above Amalfi is the charming little village of Ravello, which has perhaps the best views along the entire coast. The main square is adorable, with its cute little Duomo, shops, and restaurants.  Take a walk from the square to either the Villa Rufolo or the Villa Cimbrone for unforgettable views of the coastline.

            Probably the best place to stay in the area is the city of Sorrento, several miles north of Positano and about 30 km (20 miles) south of Naples. Sorrento has many more lodging and restaurant choices than other locations in  the area, and offers ferry service to places like Capri or Naples.

            Isle of Capri is a beautiful spot and probably the most popular excursion from Naples or Sorrento or the Amalfi Coast. It is only a 20-25 minute ferry ride from Sorrento.  The ferry deposits visitors at the Marina Grande from which tourist can either catch a bus or funicular to Capri Town, the largest and most popular town on the island, or pick up a smaller boat to the famous Blue Grotto, a cave system on the southeast coast of the island which is notable for its bluish glow. To see the grotto, visitors must actually take one boat from the marina, then change to a smaller boat at the entrance to the cave and wait in line for the opportunity to enter. The experience is actually quite kitschy and is may not be worth the expense, although many who have been there are still mesmerized by the experience.

            Capri Town is a white-washed village which sits high above the marina, on the southern coast of the island. Its labyrinthine alleys are a delight to explore and there is shopping galore for those so inclined. Wander down to the Certosa di San Giacomo or to the nearby estate of the Krupp family for incredible views of the coastline at Punta Tragara and of the I Faraglioni, three huge offshore rocks which make a spectacular photograph.

            Other places on the island which are worthy of a visit are Anacapri, a smaller village which is even higher above the water, Villa Jovis, constructed by the Roman Emperor Tiberius, and Villa San Michele, which provides access to the Sphinx Parapet.

November 09

Spotlight on Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, Canada

 

            The Cabot Trail, which traverses the coastline of Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, and also crosses the highlands of its interior, is another of Canada’s spectacular scenic drives. Entry and exit points for the drive are near the city of Baddeck.  The drive can be started either on the east or west side of Cape Breton.  Visitors should note that the larger Visitor Center is on the western side of the drive, at Cheticamp.  The southerly parts of the drive are not particularly special, but the northerly sections provide not only spectacular scenery but steep climbs and hairpin turns as well.  This upper section is within the boundaries of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, which extends from Ingonish on the east to Cheticamp on the west.  Also within the park are numerous trails or hikes, scenic overlooks, and several villages and detours to explore.

            Not far from the eastern entrance to the Cabot Trail, actually on the eastern coast of Cape Breton is the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site.  This wonderful open air museum allows visitors to embark on a journey back in time to a French colonial city in the year 1744.  Much of the original settlement has been restored and costumed residents provide information about the times and their particular station in life.  Demonstrations and exhibits reveal the practices of the time and visitors are even invited to sample the food of the era.  Shuttle buses provide transport from the Visitor Center which offers information and displays concerning Louisbourg.  Guided tours are offered in English and in French.

            The King’s Bastion is a must-see location on the site. It was the royal residence and the Governor’s quarters are about as posh and elegant as the colony could muster. Many of the homes and other buildings are not only open, but they function as they might have long ago.

November 07

Spotlight on Crater Lake National Park, USA

 

             Crater Lake National Park, in southern Oregon, contains America’s deepest lake (almost 700 meters or 2000 feet in depth) which is known around the world for its beautiful, deep blue color.  The crater is actually the caldera of Mount Mazama which erupted about 7,700 years ago leaving this steep-sided bowl which eventually filled with water.  A 53 km (33 mile) road (Rim Drive) encircles the lake and offers numerous overlooks and access to walking trails.  Boat rides to Wizard Island, an attractive, conical land mass within the crater, are available during the summer season and leave hourly from Cleetwood Cove. However, access to the boat dock requires a very strenuous walk from the parking area.

             While in the vicinity you can spend some time in the lovely city of Portland, or drive eastward on the Columbia River highway, or north to Mount St Helens National Monument, in Washington state.

           

 

            Gary’s Gem: 

                        Head for “The Watchman” overlook for breathtaking views of the lake, Wizard Island, and the surrounding countryside.

November 05

Spotlight on Oahu, Hawaii

  

             Oahu, the main and most populous island in the Hawaiian chain and the primary entry point for most visitors, contains numerous attractions and warrants at least three full days to see the major sights. 

            Waikiki Beach & Diamond Head presents one of the most famous scenes in the world. The beautiful and popular beach, renowned for surfers and outriggers is set against the backdrop of the ancient volcano remnant and is stunning at any time of the day. 

            The islands themselves are located virtually in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, above what is known as a geological “hotspot”, a permanent area of upwelling magma, rising from earth’s mantle.  Because the Pacific Ocean plate is moving in a northwesterly direction, new islands are created from northwest to southeast.  Thus, Oahu (one of the more westerly of the Hawaiian Islands) is older than Maui or Molokai.  The youngest of the Hawaiian Islands is the “Big Island”, Hawaii.  As a result of all this geology, Oahu has remnants of volcanoes, but nothing active, while Hawaii has several very active volcanoes.

            But Waikiki is all about the water and “sun’n’fun“.  Numerous hotels on the beach or just across the street offer opportunities for all sorts of water sports, or just plain tanning or wading.  Climbing Diamond Head (at Diamond Head State Monument) provides the hearty (many stairs and highly exposed to the tropical sun) with a glorious view of the beach and the Oahu shoreline. (Be advised that flashlights are needed since the walk traverses several lengthy tunnels -- they are available at the State Monument but are expensive, so visitors are advised to bring their own from home). While at Waikiki, be sure to watch or join the surfers ride the waves (many are excellent) and walk along the beach to people-watch and to be seen.

            While in Honolulu, also check out the state government area which includes the interesting State Capitol Building, Iolani Palace, the only royal palace in the USA, and the statue of King Kamehameha, who united the islands and was their first true monarch.

            Iolani Palace, on the island of Oahu, Hawaii, is the only official royal residence in the United States.  From 1882 till the end of the monarchy in 1893, it was the residence of the Hawaiian royal family.  Subsequently, it became the capitol building.  Now it is open to the public and is preserved as a memorial to the past.

            Across from the palace is the statue of King Kamehameha, who united all the Hawaiian Islands and served as Hawaii’s first king.  Also nearby is Hawaii’s new Capitol building which is also worth a look because of its unusual architecture.

            Other Oahu sights include snorkeling at Hanauma Bay, visiting Pearl Harbor  to get immersed in World War II history at the USS Arizona  and other memorials, or spending at least a half day at the Polynesian Cultural Center for an entertaining look at the various cultures of the South Pacific.

            Pearl Harbor is the scene of the infamous Japanese air raid, on December 7, 1941, which heralded America’s entry into World War II.  This is still an active US Naval Base, but much of the area devastated in the attack has been preserved as a memorial to the men and women who lost their lives on that fateful day.  The most important memorial is the USS Arizona Memorial, which consists of a white enclosure above the sunken hull of the Arizona, on Battleship Row. Oil still leaks from the vessel, and continues to bubble upward to the surface. 

            The men who lost their lives when the Arizona sunk are still entombed within its hull -- their names are immortalized on the walls of the shrine room. Access to the memorial is via shuttle boat and tickets are available on a first come, first served basis, starting at 7:30 AM, so visitors are encouraged to arrive early and plan to wait in line, especially during the summer months. A visit includes a 23-minute documentary film and the 50-minute boat trip. The entire experience is extremely spiritual and reverent, and visitors are asked to maintain silence in respect for these lost souls.

            Other sights available on a visit to Pearl Harbor include the Battleship Missouri Memorial, which commemorates the end of the World War II Pacific Campaign on the ship where the Japanese surrender was signed in 1945, and the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park.  The USS Utah Memorial may be visited by civilians, only when accompanied by a military sponsor.

            The Polynesian Cultural Center, located near the north shore beaches on the island of Oahu, is an educational and entertaining examination of the cultures of the islands of the South Pacific.  The complex is divided into sections which recreate the homes and environments of these people.  Within each area, there are demonstrations, such as, opening a coconut, dancing the hula, weaving a basket, etc. Some of these exhibits solicit visitor participation. 

            There is a daily parade of boats, one for each island group, which displays men and women in native costumes doing native dances. In the evening, these same performers participate in an extended program of dancing, flaming-baton twirling, etc.

            Hanauma Bay nature preserve, located on the northeast coast of Oahu, is a state underwater park which features snorkeling and scuba diving on a horseshoe-shaped protected beach.  Coral reefs are located just a few feet offshore, in fairly shallow water, making the area delightful even for small children.  There is a fee to use the area and visitors are required to attend a safety and conservation orientation before reaching the beach.

            Unfortunately, the popularity of the area has had a negative effect on the reef -- it is not as extensive or accessible as it once was.

 

            Gary’s Gem:

                        1.  Visit the Hanohano Room at the top of the Sheraton Royal Hawaiian Hotel, in Honolulu, for the best view of Waikiki and Diamondhead. The room has huge glass windows, so have a drink at the bar and take lots of pictures.

                        2.  Take a drive north from Honolulu along the Pali Highway, Route 61, to the Nu’Uanu Pali State Wayside for a glorious view of the northern part of the island from a cliff which was the site of King Kamehameha’s decisive victory in the battle to unite the islands.  Along the way, stop at the Punchbowl, the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, which sits high above Honolulu and offers views back toward the city.

                        3.  To see the best surfers in the world, drive to Oahu’s North Shore, where legendary beaches like the Pipeline, Sunset Beach, and Waimea Bay receive some of the best surf in the world, especially in winter.

                        4.  Take note of the following when visiting Pearl Harbor.  Because of additional security measures adopted post 9-11, bags, including camera bags and backpacks, pocketbooks, etc. are not allowed on the tour, so visitors should leave these items in their car, before leaving the parking lot to get into line.  Cameras are allowed as long as they are exposed in full view.

November 03

Spotlight on Death Valley National Park, USA

 

             Death Valley National Park is an eerily beautiful area with considerable contrast in its geology.  The park is huge (the largest in the contiguous United States) and the sights are many miles apart so one visit may not be enough to see the entire park. Summertime is not the time to go since it is easily the hottest spot in North America.  The many stops along the highways offer interesting insights into the formation and evolution of the area.

            Particular sights which should not be missed include Badwater, the lowest spot in the Western Hemisphere (282 feet/93 meters below sea level), the Devil’s Golf Course, an unusual landscape of rock salt spires, Dante’s View for a panoramic view of the Valley, and Scotty’s Castle, an interesting ranch house in the middle of nowhere.

 

            Gary’s Gem: 

                        Be sure to take a side trip along Artist’s Drive to admire the strikingly beautiful colored rocks

November 01

Spotlight on Banff National Park, Canada

 

             Banff National Park is located in the province of Alberta, among a cluster of national parks (with Jasper, Kootenay, and Yoho) which showcase the Canadian Rocky Mountains.  The combination boasts some of the most magnificent accessible scenery in the world. Snow-covered mountain peaks surround teal blue lakes and crisp, cold rivers, attracting numerous types of wildlife and numerous tourists and adventurers.  Banff, in particular, is Canada’s oldest national park (1885), and, with the other parks in the region, was rewarded with World Heritage Site status in 1984 and 1990.

            Headquarters for an exploration of these parks is the townsite of Banff, Alberta, which is nestled within the park in a valley surrounded by peaks which reach heights of 9000 -12,000 feet, and which offers lodging, restaurants, shops, and other services for the visitor.  Some of the first tourists to the area were drawn to the bubbling thermal waters of “Cave” and “Basin” Springs, now a National Historic Site. 

            Particular attractions within Banff National Park include Lake Louise, a spectacular turquoise blue lake formed by glacial melt.  Visitors may stroll or boat around the lake, hike into the mountains, or take a gondola to an overlook to get an aerial view.  At one end is the historic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, one of a number of hotels throughout Canada, built by the Canadian Railroad to entice tourists to Canada.

            Near Lake Louise is Moraine Lake, similar in many respects, but, in this case, occupying the Valley of the Ten Peaks.  It is the grayish, glacial silt which contributes to the unusual and dramatic color of these lakes.

            An excellent day trip from Banff is a scenic drive along the Icefields Parkway. The Icefields Parkway, is a spectacular 142 mile ( 300 km) highway which extends from the town of Lake Louise, northward to the town of Jasper, Alberta.  This drive offers amazing views of the Canadian Rockies, waterfalls, lakes and glaciers.  It is certainly one of the most beautiful scenic drives in the world.  Along the route are numerous overlooks and trails.  The road is extremely well-engineered and does not require tremendous mountain-driving skill.  Plan to spend the entire day if the drive begins and ends in Banff or Jasper or Lake Louise, since the round-trip is almost 300 miles, and there are obligatory stops along the way to admire the scenery or for other activities.

            Jasper National Park, Alberta, lies to the north of Banff National Park and also offers spectacular mountain scenery and varied outdoor activities.  The northern section of the Icefields Parkway lies within Jasper National Park and includes Athabasca Mountain and Athabasca Falls.  The town of Jasper, Alberta is also interesting and is equipped to serve as a base of operations while exploring the park.

            Yoho National Park, British Columbia, is a small park which abuts Banff National Park.  Like its neighbor, it preserves the splendor of the Canadian Rockies.  There are guided tours of the Fossil Bed area and numerous hiking trails. Other activities are available at Emerald Lake.  Be sure to see Takakkaw Falls, one of Canada’s highest at over 1200 feet.

            Kootenay National Park, British Columbia, along with Banff National Park, Jasper National Park, and Yoho National Park constitute a tribute to the magnificent Canadian Rockies, and all have been recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  Kootenay adjoins Yoho to the north and Banff to the east.  Like the others, this park offers dramatic mountain scenery and numerous outdoor activities.  Of special note are Radium Hot Springs and the Paint Pots.

            Revelstoke, British Columbia, lies just west of Roger’s Pass, along the Trans-Canada Highway, which travels through Glacier National Park, another of Canada’s group of Mountain/Glacier areas, this time the Columbia Range, just west of the Rockies. Also nearby is Mount Revelstoke National Park, which, besides the usual mountain park activities, offers a scenic auto road to the summit.

            The village of Revelstoke is quaint with a western flavor and offers several eating and lodging opportunities. 

 

            Gary’s Gem:

                        1.  Instead of taking the highway from Lake Louise to Banff, take Bow Valley Parkway, which almost guarantees wildlife sightings besides great scenery.

                        2.  Check out the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, which, like the Chateau Lake Louise, is a grand old hotel built by the Canadian Railroad.

                        3.  While on the Icefields Parkway, be sure to stop at Icefield Centre (at kilometer 127) and take a ride on a Snocoach out onto the Columbia Icefield.  Visitors are allowed to get out and walk around on the glacier for an unforgettable experience.

                        4.  One of the most beautiful viewpoints on the Icefields Parkway leads to Peyto Lake (at kilometer 40).

October 30

Spotlight on Everglades National Park

    Everglades National Park, in southern Florida, preserves a vast wetland complete with an incredible variety of wildlife, including alligators, crocodiles, manatees, Florida panthers, and a tremendous number of birds.  A boat cruise is the only way to see much of the park, because water predominates.  But, there are also many walking trails which can be accessed via the park roads.  The Visitor Centers provides information and lists of Park Ranger-led programs which are held frequently. Don’t visit in the summer since the mosquitoes are ubiquitous and extremely aggressive.
October 28

Spotlight on Olympic National Park, USA

 

            Olympic National Park, in the northwestern corner of Washington, is a park with something for everyone.  It has snow-capped mountains; it has wild, unspoiled beaches; it has eerie and unusual Temperate Rain Forests; and it has abundant wildlife because so much of the park is truly wilderness.  The best way to visit is by car, a significant day trip from Seattle or, better, an overnight stay on the peninsula. Route 101 which loops around most of the park and allows access to the best sights, is, itself, around 300 kilometers (200 miles), so leave early and plan to be gone for the entire day.

            Hurricane Ridge in the northern area of the park offers views of striking snow-capped peaks and the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the north. There are a number of walking or hiking trails available as well.

            Ruby Beach, on the western edge of the park, is wild and strange, with its many sea stacks and driftwood.  It’s not a beach for swimming, but just to stroll and admire the photogenic scenery or to explore tidal pools to observe the many small sea creatures which inhabit them, such as pacific coast sea anemones, sea urchins, and starfish.

            The Hoh Rain Forest, inland from the Ruby Beach area, invites the visitor to observe an extremely uncommon ecosystem, a temperate Rain Forest. Don’t be surprised if it rains during the visit, since this area gets 150 or so inches of rain (almost 400 cm) per year.  This environment is characterized by mosses which drape the tree branches and give them an otherworldly look.

 

            Gary's Gem

                        Take the Hall of Mosses Trail, an easy self-guided walk, to experience the lush, eternally green Sitka Spruce Forest.

October 26

Spotlight on Yosemite National Park, USA

 

              Yosemite National Park is another park whose images are extremely familiar to everyone.  From the writings of John Muir to the photographs of Ansel Adams, the park’s vistas are legendary.  Yosemite represents glacial landscape at its best.  From El Capitan’s monolithic face to Yosemite Falls, the highest waterfall in North America, to an alpine meadow called Tuolumne, to Glacier Point, a breath-taking overlook, Yosemite’s beauty is stunning.  The price paid for all this, however, is slow-moving traffic and hordes of visitors which severely diminish the average person’s enjoyment.  But, if the traveler can put up with some of the inconvenience, Yosemite is a true treasure. Incidentally, there are shuttles available in the valley floor area in the summertime, which is a good way to avoid the aggravation of the traffic, and also to reduce the pollution caused by so many cars.  There are even stands of Redwoods, two of which date back to a time when tunnels were dug through the trunks so that cars could pass through, although one of these trees is now dead.

            Another way to minimize the congestion and crowding is to walk several of the numerous trails within the park. 

            An interesting excursion from Yosemite is to travel east to Mono Lake, an unusual lake with high mineral and salt concentrations which allow the formation of strange and beautiful calcium carbonate structures, such as, tufa, spires and knobs.  The entire area is volcanic in origin and fairly recent geologically.

 

            Gary’s Gem: 

                        1.  The view of Yosemite Valley from the Valley View overlook is particularly beautiful because it encompasses many of the “famous” landmarks of the park, including El Capitan, Half-dome, and Bridal Veil Falls.

                        2.  Other exquisite viewing areas include Glacier Point and Washburn Point, which are both high above the valley floor and look down at Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls, truly showcasing the glacial nature of the landscape.
October 24

Spotlight on Yellowstone National Park, USA

 

              Yellowstone National Park is not only America’s first national park, but is, probably, the premier national park in the US.  It combines dramatic scenery, exemplified by the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, with incredible thermal areas, e.g. Old Faithful, and a great variety of wildlife which is extremely accessible to visitors.  The park consists of two circular routes (a northern, 112 km or 70 mile loop, and a southern, 150 km or 96 mile loop) which meet and share a common east-west road across the middle of the park.  Each of the loop roads requires at least a day, so a minimum stay in the area should last two full days (keep in mind that it is better to stay longer to allow more time at the various sights).  Yellowstone requires a considerable amount of walking in order to fully appreciate the thermal and scenic areas since many of the sights are along trails or elevated boardwalks above the thermal areas and are some distance from the roads. 

            There are numerous must sees in the park. The following is a list of the major sights.  

            Old Faithful geyser (in the Upper Geyser Basin, the largest concentration of geysers in the world) is the unofficial symbol of the park. It is called Old Faithful because it reliably erupts every 78 minutes on average and its eruptions spray heated water over 100 feet into the air.

             The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone (at Canyon Village) offers views of yellow, orange, red and white canyon walls above the blue-green Yellowstone River, 330 meters (1000 feet) below. Yellowstone Falls, at one end of the canyon, adds more beauty to the scene.  Stop at the various overlooks, such as Artist Point and Inspiration Point, to get different perspectives.  

            Mammoth Hot Springs (in the northernmost region of the park) features colorful terraces of superheated water flowing over a kind of limestone called travertine. The end result is a colorful (shades of white, yellow, cocoa, and pink), steaming staircase.

            Norris Geyser Basin includes Steamboat Geyser, the world’s tallest, among others as well as colorful (shades of blue, yellow, orange and green) pools and other thermal features.

            Wildlife, such as, Bison, Elk, Bears, Wolves, etc, are common throughout the park (although wolves are seldom seen near the populated areas) so be prepared to stop at traffic jams which begin as soon as significant wildlife is spotted, because people just stop their cars in the middle of the road to take pictures and to watch.  Instead of getting upset, just relax and enjoy the experience.

            Fountain Paint Pot (in the Lower Geyser Basin area) is extremely different from the other thermal features and is interesting and entertaining.  Here multi-colored mud boils and spouts.

            Many other attractions are spread throughout the huge park. There are numerous walking trails which lead to waterfalls, other thermal areas, etc.

            Cody, Wyoming, is a town which recalls the days of cowboys and shoot-outs.  It was founded by William “Buffalo Bill” Cody, hence the name, in 1896.  Memorabilia of the founder and the period are found at various sites in the town. Check them out especially if intrigued or interested in the Old West. Cody is also the eastern gateway to Yellowstone National Park.

            West Yellowstone, Montana is the western gateway and is another quaint, little town with a western flair.

 

            Gary’s Gem: An interesting and memorable experience is to take a swim in the Firehole River, a cold, mountain stream which is warmed considerably as it travels through the thermal areas, becoming comfortably warm. Access is just off Lower Loop Road, just south of Madison (check with a Ranger at any of the Visitor Centers to get more specific directions and to make sure swimming is still permitted).

 
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